Jump to content
Welcome Guest!

Join us now to get access to all our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, and so, so much more. It's also quick and totally free, so what are you waiting for?

Sign in to follow this  

Securing tempered or plexi glass

Recommended Posts

For plexi covering a control panel I've previously just drilled holes for the buttons (using the actual MDF CP as a template with them clamped together). Then once the buttons are fitted and tightened I found that more than sufficient to hold everything in place.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

The tempered glass to go in front of my screen I cut a channel at the top and bottom of my cabinet and when I assemble it the bottom piece is removable so I slide it in at the top then slide it in the bottom channel and secure the bottom piece!! For my control panel I use a t-molding with a lip on the top and bottom plus the buttons help hold it down. The only down side is you have to have the exact thickness of your control panel including plexiglass for the t-molding to work!!! This is what I use http://www.t-molding.com/13-16in-lip-black-t-molding.html  I believe it only comes in black and white for now!!!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

On mine the glass fits in a channel along the bottom edge and then just leans back into the frame and it's weight holds it in place. Then I have an black aluminum outer frame that goes on top to integrate it into the cab. Never needed anything more than that.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By devilFist
      Well, I'm finally going to have some time to build my cabinet... took awhile, darn career getting in the way of my games!
      Anyway, I have several issues I'd like to hear opinions and advice on, but I just realized I left all my notes and schematics at work.  I'll add more questions and corrections later, since my memory may not be 100% accurate.  Basic design info:  about 7 feet tall, 36" wide, and 36" deep (without control panel, which I plan on making removable).  4-player U360 with (10) rgb buttons per player, (2) aimtrak, (1) rgb trackball with (3) system rgb buttons.  40" LCD, 5.1 sound, secondary and tertiary LCD's, LCD marquee.  Emulating arcade and console games.
      1.  I would like to have glass or plexiglass over the screen.  I like the "depth" feeling from standard arcade cabinets with the monitor behind a protective layer.  I think I would prefer glass over plexi for this application.  My questions are:  
           (a) is there a material type that better minimizes glare?  
           (b) how much of a gap between the screen and the glass?  
           (c) what angle off the vertical should the glass and screen be mounted, keeping in mind possible reflections from screen onto glass?  
           (d) "smoked" glass looks cool, but does it dull colors or otherwise impair viewing?  I will be playing some games in 1080p.
      2.  I would like to have glass or plexiglass over my control panel's artwork:
           (a) I do not want any visible screws/clamps/etc.  The buttons will hold it in place, but will I need to secure it better (especially near edges)?
           (b) also, the edge must look good.  T-molding to cover both plexi and wood, or any other options?
           (c) for this application glass has great advantages, but since it will receive more wear and tear, maybe plexi is better?
           (d) what angle off the horizontal should the top of the panel be (I think my design was close to 5 degrees)?
      3.  I want hinges to lift the top of my control panel:
           (a) need to be able to access Ipac/interface and controls for maintenance
           (a) must be heavy-duty enough to lift the panel with all electronics attached and hold open
           (b) when closed, all seams/lines should be as invisible as possible
      3.  T-molding for side panels' edges?
           (a) I kinda like keeping the wood slightly rounded, smoothly sanded, and painted a relevant color for the artwork, but am worried about the edge of the vinyl artwork looking crappy if there is nothing to butt up against.  Anyone tried both and can compare?
           (b) I had planned on using 1/2" plywood.  I'm aware of positives/negatives of it vs. MDF.  If I use T-molding, however, it seems that options and varieties of T-molding in 1/2" is quite limited.  I thus figured 3/4" plywood would be better for the sides (I was already using some for other parts that needed a little more strength than the 1/2"), but still want to keep the weight down.  I guess I don't have a specific question about this, just wondering what other people have done and think?
      4.  Casters for movability?
           (a) Originally, I planned on putting casters in the rear two corners, and solid feet in the front two.  Now I'm thinking I will rarely have to re-position the cabinet, so not only will this be unnecessary, but the casters may allow a little more "wiggle" than solid feet, which in the heat of competitive play may be annoying.  Has anyone tried this with good/bad results?
           (b) What kind of feet should I use?  I figure I should leave at least a 1/4" gap between cabinet and ground to allow both airflow and the possibility that carpet or soft flooring may affect how close the cabinet really is to the floor.  If there are four feet, the cabinet may teeter if they are not adjustable.  
      5.  USB and other inputs?
           (a) I will put a powered USB hub right below the screen for Aimtrak guns, gamepads, and other needs.  Is there any need for 3.0 USB?  Is there a simple way to secure the Aimtrak/gamepad cables so they are not accidentally unplugged/damaged during gameplay?
           (b) Bliss-Box?  I read a bit about it, but need more info.  I had purchased an NES-to-USB adapter and was disappointed with the lag... impossible to play Tyson's Punch Out... but Bliss-Box looks promising.
           (c) I also plan on having an I/O for ethernet, TV coaxial, headphones/mic, and power.  Are there any others I should consider?
      Thanks everyone.  Just reading through others' posts has been immensely valuable, and I truly appreciate it.  I'll post some pictures when I actually start cutting and things look like they are taking shape.  I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions until then.