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123fakestreet

Mr. & Mrs. Pac-Man Pinball - 46/30/15.6 Widebody

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On the left, the original 1982 Mr. & Mrs. Pac-Man Pinball. To the right, the replica. Thank you to all cabinet builders for the inspiration, especially chriz99 and mameman!

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Playfield Cabinet
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The front and back corners are cut at 45 degrees, with miter splines for strength. I also used wood bracing on the inside corners under the leg brackets. The leg bracket holes were drilled at 25/64" which gave a little wiggle room to tighten fully. One problem I ran into: I cut the slots for the side rail plastic channels at 1/16" with a router and Harbor Freight slot cutter set, but after painting they weren't wide enough to hammer the rails down into, so I had to redo that. Slots for the TV were routed to 1/2" leaving only 1/4" thickness. I was worried about this in back with the weight of the backboxes so I made 2 bracing pieces to reinforce. The TV ended up being slim enough to install (fully cased) from the top, if I had realized that earlier I would not have routed the slots all the way back. Because there is a Samsung logo tab sticking out on the bottom of the TV, it sits slightly off-center to the right in the cabinet despite the routing, it is only about 1/8" off though. The remote works fine (needed for switching to 3D) as the sensor is on the bottom right of the TV so ends up near the buttons on the left side. 3D does work, check out the thread by toxie for more info. Because the Samsung UN46ES7100 is active shutter, you need two pairs of glasses turned sideways for it to work and not see black bars. This does make it hard to see the backglass and DMD, and the resolution is cut in half to achieve 3D. I don't turn on the 3D very often but it's nice to have, I did angle the TV downward anyway so it gives some illusion of depth though 2D.

3/4" Birch Plywood
Kreg 1-1/4" Course Pocket Screws (every 6 inches, 2 inches from edges, with wood glue)
46" Samsung UN46ES7100
Widebody Lockdown bar
Williams/Bally Lockdown Bar Lever Guide Assembly
BLACK KNIGHT (Williams) Side rails pair
Spiral nail .15" dia. x 3/4"
Screw 6-32 x 5/8" hex
4X Pin Cushion Cabinet Protectors
4X Williams/Bally New Style Leg Bracket
4X Heavy Duty Leg Leveler With Nut
4X Leg Leveler Rubber Castors
4X Bally Gray Legs
2X Williams/Bally WPC/WPC95 Playfield Glass Side Rail Plastic Channel
Williams/Bally WIDEBODY Playfield Glass Rear Plastic Channel
Grill - speaker 7" x 7"
Vent grill - metal 2-1/2" x 19" (cut to size)
3/16" Smoked Plexiglass
1-1/8" Double-Bitted Lock
Lock Plate
Piano Hinge


Upper Backbox (A bit taller and wider to fit screen)
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Also routed to 1/2" to recess the decased screen as much as possible. Routing on all sides presented a problem, how to get the TV in there? I ended up leaving the right side unglued so it is removable, the hole in the bottom is large enough to get a screwdriver in there and tighten with pocket screws. The top trim piece is not glued in as it would cover the screw holes holding things together.

3/4" Birch Plywood
1/4" MDF (Backglass retainers)
Kreg 1-1/4" Course Pocket Screws (every 6 inches, 2 inches from edges, with wood glue)
(all plastic/metal trim was cut to size with a Dremel Fiberglass Cut-Off Wheel)
30" NEC LCD3000 (originally Dell W3000 but it would not turn on reliably, a common issue I have read online)
Trim backglass 3/16" side plastic set-3
Bally Stainless Lift Trim
3/16" Smoked Plexiglass


Lower Backbox (A bit taller and wider to fit screen)
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For now, I am using the HannsG instead of a real DMD. (I wanted to use custom color settings and not have the intense reflection on the playfield glass) It is routed about 1/2" and wedged in there tightly. I had to make the box taller, which I justified by having the combined height of the backboxes be the same as a Williams widebody. Theare are 2 pieces of plexiglass with a paper bezel inbetween.

3/4" Birch Plywood
1/2" MDF (Backglass retainers)
Kreg 1-1/4" Course Pocket Screws (every 6 inches, 2 inches from edges, with wood glue)
(all plastic/metal trim was cut to size with a Dremel Fiberglass Cut-Off Wheel)
15.6" HannsG HK162
Trim backglass 3/16" side plastic set-3
Bally Stainless Lift Trim
1/8" Smoked Plexiglass, 1/16" Smoked Plexiglass


Stencils
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Ideally a spray gun is the way to go with stencils, but I like the control of using a foam roller, although it requires a lot of touch up. 2 coats of latex Kilz2 primer, and then latex Glidden Satin Interior, 3 coats blue (Rhapsody), 5 coats yellow (Sunny Side Up), 5 coats pink (Passion Flower) The black was done with 2 coats Zinnser BIN primer (spray can) and 2-3 coats Rustoleum Satin Black (spray can). One thing I re-learned about spray paint, if you're going to do more than one coat, don't space them out too long, I did a second coat of black the next day and it puckered, had to redo it. Another coat should be applied within an hour.


Bally Coin door/Cash box

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I took the coin door completely apart and used a wet sanding sponge (up and down for uniform grain) to buff out scratches, it worked great, used the same on the trim. For the coin insert panel/coin mechs and chutes I used steel wool. I wired the lights in series to the PC, using an extra molex to SATA adaptor to splice the wires. #161 bulbs are the correct voltage. I put the shooter rod/knob in the drill and spun it in steel wool, shined it all up, did the same for the coin return button. You can use steel wool on the cash box, but it takes off the zinc coating, leaving it clean and shiny but different than the original.

Bally Coin Door & Trim
Bally Cash Box
Bally Sticker
3X Bally price plates
Carriage bolt set
7/8" Coin Door Lock - Single Bitted
#161 Eiki Bulbs


Sound
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The integrated sound on this motherboard is from Realtek, nothing special but you can route seperate audio streams to front and back outputs, which is now a feature in visual Pinball. (Doesn't work in Future Pinball, sound only comes from the primary backbox speakers) I have the Logitech Z506 5.1 speakers on the back outputs, and the Logitech S220 2.1 speakers on the front headphone jack. So backbox rom sound is separated from cabinet mechanical sounds. I am missing authentic force feedback, but I can control the volume of the whole cabinet. I copied the small bottom vent holes in the original cabinet, and the speakers are placed nearby. In the lower backbox, the speakers are facing toward the bottom hole that overhangs the playfield. I like that the speakers aren't right in my face, and without a speaker panel all 3 screens are blank when turned off.

Logitech Z506
Logitech S220


PC
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The playfield cabinet is not as tall as a Williams widebody, so I could not fit a shelf for the PC above where the legs attach. Because of this I just kept the PC in its case, which could technically be pulled out the back if needed, a tight sqeeze though.

Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
Intel DP55KG Motherboard
Intel Core i7-860 2.80GHz
Kingston 4GB DDR3 1333
Samsung SSD 830 Series 128GB
Antec Sonata Designer 500 Case
2X Galaxy GeForce GTS 250 1GB
2X Nexus 92mm Real Silent Case Fan
750W Antec Earthwatts Power Supply
Smart Strip LCG3 Surge Protector
Logitech mk260 wireless Keyboard & Mouse
(these work OK but sometimes lag)


Buttons
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Coin return button=cabinet on
The PC momentary switch is in the first coin mech, I just cut off the square top of the switch so it works. Not all coin mechs fit this method, I had to use a metal one from a Ms. Pac-Man. The PC is plugged into the Control Outlet on the Smart Strip and automatically switches everything else on.
Coin door start button=Start (also I-PAC2 shift button)
L Flipper Front (shifted=L Nudge)
R Flipper Front (shifted=R Nudge)
L Flipper Back=secondary L flipper/magna save/buy-in (shifted=Insert Coin)
R Flipper Back=secondary R flipper/magna save (shifted=Exit)
I didn't put in any analog nudging, maybe if I improve at pinball I will, because the above shift settings are not very functional.
Shooter (shifted=Fwd Nudge, Genre in Hyperpin)
The shooter hits a microswitch wired backwards as NC (Normally Closed)
I used Speedbor bits for the button holes, 5/8 & 1-1/8.

I-PAC2
4X NOS 1-1/8 short Leaf Switch Buttons
4X PAL nut 5/8"
4X VPCLeaf Switch (works well with I-PAC2 low current)
Switch - miniature drop bar target
Bally Shooter


Ventilation
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I replicated the original backbox vents, which I wouldn't recommend as most projects have large strong fans. I routed out a long air intake under the cab for the PC, and there's also the speaker hole, which was done with a router using a makeshift jig. I ran a 92mm case fan up into the bottom hole of the lower backbox, and another for the upper backbox, so it has upward airflow. I didn't notice excessive heat in the lower cabinet, the upper backbox (NEC LCD3000) gets hotter though. I covered the routed area in the upper backbox with thermal aluminum tape. I was still a bit concerned about airflow so in the end left the back slightly unhinged and have a small desk fan route air out the back.

Edited by 123fakestreet

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    • By natari
      Hi Hyperspin community,
      I've been a Hyperspin member for a while now and this will be my first post. I spent the past couple of days writing my project down from start to almost finished.. I have yet to write down the section about software/configurations/tips/tweaks, hoping I can provide that in an update shortly. Just wanted to say a special thanks to my friends that helped me with this project as well as the others in this awesome community that didn't know it, but your questions & answers helped me get through it all.. Sorry it's pretty lengthy..
      Machine name : Pac-Cade                  Started on the build 11/2017                         Finished (well its about 98% done)
      Here is my couple of month’s life story of my first MAME cabinet build. Please, feel free to read for your enjoyment or skip through and look at the pretty pictures. I’m just hoping that what I went through helps others out with their build.
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      The cabinet came with the bezel, front glass, 4 buttons, marquee clear plastic, coin slots (BONUS) and a lot of dust. It was pretty much gutted but exactly what I was looking for. I wanted an extra wide cabinet so I can have some room for a 2 player setup.

      Right below the marquee is a wooden board with a nice size open hole that had a metal plate where the speakers go and small rectangle tinted glass which you can see it still in the above photos.

      With 12 screws around the edge of the control panel, I took off the lexan (similar) top layer and thankfully it was not glued down so I can use the control board. It was nice to see the metal plate for the track ball, but it just added more questions on how I’m really going to lay all this out.

      Still not really sure how I’m going to layout the control panel at this time, but I do know I want two player (I considered 4 player), trackball, spinner and pinball buttons. So measuring the opening where all the buttons and joystick will go, I found my area to work with.
      This part took the longest out of all the other projects and trying to figure out the layout was killing me slowly. I thought about laying it all out myself with button templates and looking up some cool graphics. I just couldn’t find anything I really liked and just couldn’t visualize it. Then I finally found a layout which was actually based off the Golden Tee control panel and oh my, I was sold. I can’t take credit for this so thanks goes to dmatanski at Deviant Art (hxxps://dmatanski.deviantart.com/art/MAME-large-control-panel-48650519). I found a couple of reasons why this layout is awesome. It’s based off my arcade control panel for one so I don’t have to retro-fit it, but something I never really realized…. 8 way joysticks suck for Pac Man!! So this layout has a third 4-way joystick at the top “classic setup”. Yes, this layout has lots of buttons!!!!!

      After I printed the layout, I purchased some Forstner bits and made a practice control panel out of MDF so I can have a feel for how it’s laid out, practice drilling and get to use the buttons/joysticks I bought. I had my control panel upstairs hooked to what I was going to use; a Pi3 with retropi installed, using an external 500gig HD, attract mode, themes, video previews installed. Retropi is very slick, easy to setup and pretty darn cool and I think it work well in a cabinet.

      Stuff I bought at this time-
      Trackball – 90 bucks off Amazon 2 player buttons and 8-way joystick.. Here is where I think some will say I went cheap, and yes I slightly agree. But I do like them and maybe at a later date I’ll upgrade. Called Easyget LED illuminated 2 player, $67 off Amazon. 3.5 inch circle speaker covers Light bar from Home Depot for the marquee I happened to have an old CRT and my old speakers with subwoofer, so I temporary put them in place. I also removed the upper black wooded border so I can make room for a 2nd monitor idea frame out of MDF. And yeah the previous wood was glued to the marquee bottom board and it broke off.. eh, no biggie.

      While playing on the Pi3, I just found that some mame roms were not work and customizing it was tedious. So, I bailed on the Pi3 and bought a 2.8ghz quad core mobo, 8 gigs ram from a friend and I had some extra parts laying around - 256gig SSD, sata 500gig, nvidia video card. So, now I’m using Hyperspin/rocketlauncher which I’ll go in more setup detail later in this brain dump of mine.
      I had a lot of friends to bounce ideas off and one of them gave me a 28” TV, which I considered to use for that retro look, so I bought a VGA to HDMI adapter from Amazon. I had some trouble with my PC recognizing it adapter and I could never get the TV to display. So, I bailed on it and started pricing out LCDs. I can still use this TV for my old consoles which I collect, so it’s a win win for me.
      I had a quote for a sign shop to have them print my control panel on polycarbonate but it was too expensive for me. I reached out to my friends again and found one that knew a guy that had a full size plotter and once I gave him the dimensions of the control panel he printed me out 4 copies on sticky back vinyl, just in case I screwed up.

      So, onto the secondary monitor thoughts and plans. My first thought was to buy a LCD screen as my marquee and have it just scroll through the game marquees when one is selected, but that area is fairly skinny and the LCDs are VERY expensive. I thought about designing my own marquee and using the space right below it for a laptop LCD.
      So this open area right below the marquee area would be a perfect place to put in a 15” laptop LCD. I did some research about scrolling marquees and found an awesome thread about Hyper Marquee and (EDS) Event Dispatch System. And thanks to Mamefan for his youtube channel for setting up Hyper Marquee and EDS which helped me TONS! (hxxps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbcUzyfMtPc)
      I had an old laptop that was dead but the screen still worked so I ripped it out and found the model number and looked on ebay for a LCD controller board. Bingo! clicked on buy now and it arrived in a couple of days!

      So with Hyperspin loaded with HyerMarquee and EDS, I was able to display the rom marquee and its flyer. Learning those two new programs did take some getting used to, but once you work on it for a while it’s pretty darn easy. If the marquee isn’t available it uses hyperspins wheel image and if a flyer isn’t available it just displays a default picture (ready player one). Going portrait mode on the 2nd screen really makes sense and awesome looking. I’m able to easily add both graphics since most of the flyers are basically portrait. Below is my two screen temporary layout held up with some duct tape.

      The one issue I did notice with this setup, if I power off the LCD controller board it doesn’t turn back on without physically pressing the power button. I thought that HDMI when the source is powered on it will turn on the monitor, but no matter what I did or how long I waited it would never turn on the 2nd screen. So, screw it! I fixed this issue by shorting out the power on/off button on the smaller pcb board that plugs into the LCD controller board. When the PC turns off or by the power strip and then turned back on, the LCD board comes to life and I have video. The 2nd screen even goes into powersaving mode and it will turn off when I turn off the PC.
      Onto the 2nd LCD frame. I took measurements and even cut a groove for the screen to set in. My wood working skills are not the best at all and I normally have to measure 5 times and then cut/screw-up/buy new piece, measure two more times and then maybe I’ll hit my mark. Luckily enough the piece I bought was big enough for that 2nd try I needed! You can see on the upper right of the picture the original frame I ripped out. I thought it turned out pretty nice after semi-gloss black paint job and screwed in place.

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      So, what to do about the actual marquee area, I thought? I’m a huge Pac Man fan and was thinking an actual Pac Man marquee but I decided to just design one up myself and come up with a name of my cabinet, Pac Cade how original…. right? Some picture googling and paint.net skills I made this up and had it printed at Staples on what they called vinyl for only 6 bucks! What a deal.. slapped it on the plastic and there ya go! I just need to figure out what to do with the side-art. I do have light poking through the edges which I’m not a fan about, so I need to figure out what to do there.

      I think I’m making good progress on it. But what I’m dreading the most, you might ask? Well it’s drilling the control panel holes through the wood/plexi/vinyl.. HOW will I pull this off! I kept prolonging that day when I had to start drilling. It made me nervous just thinking about it. But that will be a later day, time for me to fix this horrible CRT area.

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      Sorry, going to go in more detail on this as this section was slightly stressful. At this point I didn’t really research into what I should use. At my house (we just moved) the previous owner used plexiglass for an additional layer on our windows. I thought, score I can spare a couple for my cabinet and save some space. I looked up what to use to cut plexiglass and found that using a Stepping Bit is a good way to go, so off to the local hardware store!
      I needed to figure out a way to mark my buttons and joysticks on the vinyl and board. I used a drafting compass draw a 30mm and 24mm circle on cardboard and with a hole poked through the middle, booya I had my center. I then laid the cardboard circle on the vinyl and marked the center with a marker. Then used point of the compass to poke a hole through the vinyl. This part wasn’t so bad since I had 3 other vinyl sheets on the ready. I then used a utility knife to cut the lines into it. Geez, this part was a little unnerving. 

      Once all the holes were done in the vinyl I laid that on top of the control board and just marked my pilot holes. I also bought a dowel rod and plug the original 4 holes of the control panel. Used my Forstners bit and a hand drill. There are two sizes holes here – 30MM and 24MM. Mainly because the Easyget buttons came with 8 30mm and 4 24mm size buttons.

      It’s heartbreak and stress time. It didn’t take long to figure out plexiglass will not work, at least what I had in my basement. It might be too brittle or sun damaged etc.. The sound this stepping bit had on the plexiglass was horrific! As you can see from the right pic that cracks & chips were very visible. WHAT TO DO!!

      My local hardware store had lexan polycarbonate and WOW what a HUGE difference that made. The sheet was expensive but well worth it. The stepping bit drilled into this stuff like a hot knife in butter. But this part was very stressful and it took a while because I didn’t want to screw up. After many practice runs with a circle cutter bit on scrap lexan, I made my final 3” hole.

      Here is the end result of my control panel finally all drilled and assembled. As well as adding what I have for joysticks/buttons and trackball. Looking pretty good so far. Just need to order the other 4-way joystick/buttons and the spinner.

      I ordered the other set of buttons and joystick and then decided to spin up Paint.Net for one ugly looking wiring schematics. This did really help figure out where everything is going. The two purple buttons on the right and left of the panel are the pinball buttons that I’ll drill on the side of the control panel box. After doing some troubleshooting, I had to route my pinball buttons on my first button controller board. Splitting them up between two controller boards seemed to cause some confusion even with JoytoKey installed.

      Here are a couple of screenshots of the pinball holes I drilled out as well as I hooked up the LED switch to my coin slot buttons. SO cool! Turns out Christmas LED bulbs work great for replacement bulbs for the coin buttons.

      After some time I did finally pulled the trigger on getting the rest of the buttons and my 4-way joystick. I ended up with white player/coin buttons and the rest blue and I think it came out pretty nice. Not sure why in this picture my red buttons look more yellowish. Still holding off on the spinner, they are not cheap. After I got my 4-way joystick I read its small paper doc and it showed me how to make it an 8-way and shockingly enough I looked at my other two 8-way joysticks and they are also convertible.. Go figure.. here I was dying to play Pac Man during this build and I could have if I would have just converted a joystick!

      And the 98% final results. With 4 added quarters from 1980 - 1984 on the glass...


      Some high level software and info-
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