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Luckydogg420

The endless tv debate.... Pls help a noob

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I've been reading the many different builds and I'm about to buy a playfield screen, but theirs some points that I'm unsure of.

I have both a standard and wide body lockdown bar that I might use. Since the lockdown bar decides the size of tv that can be used I'm at a toss up. I want to build a slotted cabinet that eliminates the bezel of the screen. The best option that I've seen is from the Big Bang pin. Built by chris99. He uses a 46" samsung in a wide body cabinet.

So... The best screen for a wide body cabinet is a samsung, model number un46....... Their the "slim" model, a very tiny bezel, when slotted in a cabinet the width of the machine is accurate to real pin size ....and the depth is close to that of a real pin, right?

For a standard cabinet the largest tv you can use is a 40"? Even with slotting the cabinet, even with a "slim" tv? Would it be possible to squeeze in a 42" that has been decased? Or is 40" the MAX! The problem here is the depth of the machine. The cabinet would be stubby compared to a regular cabinet. (Don't think I want that).

Ok, so... Sony and samsung share a screen manufacturing plant, the new sony tvs have a thin bezel, would it be safe to assume that a 46" sony tv would work? (If de-cased)

Then next... I'm going to go with a 1080p screen, but is there a noticeable difference between 60hz, 120hz, or 240hz.

I'm trying to save every expense, but I don't want to cheap out on the screen. Any advice would be great.

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Also for the DMD area.

I want a foldable backbox. Can I get away with a 17" LCD monitor? Or do I have to get a 15.6" tv?

I don't want to use a real DMD. I'd assume that the colour DMD code will eventually be brought to virtual games and a real DMD wouldn't be able to handle the colour.

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I had a STD 1991 batman cabinet

I fitted a insignia 39 LED, decased, it fit INSIDE the cab, with only 1/16th to spare...a true perfect fit. (insignia's auto power on like we pinball guys need)

the backbox, I did a 15.9 acer lcd, and a 24" monitor

problem I had with the 15.9 acer was viewing angles , the acer and hannspree/hannsg is that they have 50deg vertical viewing angles...if your not eye level, you cant see it good!

I would duck my head down to see the DMD when I needed to.

I've been looking for 15-17 widescreens with better than 50-60 deg viewing angles....about impossible

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46 is ideal for a widebody as long as its thin (top and bottom bezel area to screen) you should be able to slot. otherwise it would have to sit ontop of the rails as chriz's STTNG and my original dr who.

for a std width, the max you can get is a ultra thin 40" to fit. I installed a samsung 40 into slots in one already. otherwise for a 40 it will have to sit on top of the rails again.

As you have said, anything smaller than a 46" will have dead space in the length and will need to be either reduced in depth or have a filler section made. a 42" in a widebody is not a bad option as it allows you to put the flashers etc under the glass beyond the screen and make use of that space.

reducing the length overall is not so bad, VPCabs does a machine specifically for this that we designed. It looks great.

you could fit a 17" and backglass in the same box if you set one back further than the other. otherwise i would simply use a 15.6".

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How crucial is a 240hz screen? Is 120hz ok? Will I be disappointed with a 60hz screen?

Where does the DMD image go on the third screen? If I use a 17" LCD for the DMD; will the "dmd" be on the top of the screen, forcing me to hang it down into the bottom of the cab. Or can I select where on the screen the "DMD" will go? Like in the middle of the screen, allowing the monitor to sit higher

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I love the design I ended up with. It's a 42" Samsung that I can lift straight out the top of the cabinet after I remove the glass. I can work on everything inside the cabinet while the back of the cab is sitting tight up against the wall. I build the cabinet to fit the TV...I believe my inside dimension was one inch larger than a standard cabinet. Sure you gotta order a custome lockdown bar but it's such a small cost compared to the whole project I wouldn't build a cab around the size of a lockdown bar. Buy a TV, decase it, then build the cab to fit. I also wanted the back end of my screen as close to the glass as possible so I was able to have my TV to glass distance in the back set to 2" and still was able to install a custom 2" 5 LED light bar I had Zeb make for me. I really need to update my thread with some completion pictures.

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I would recommend to get a playfield monitor with a gaming mode. Typically gaming mode is set to run at 60 hz

Wow! Really? So a 60hz tv is really all I need? Is there a benefit of getting a 120hz then?

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After reading some online reviews and info, it does seem like the first things to be removed while in game mode are the added processing of the 120hz/240hz image.

So I've decided to just go with a good 60hz tv. Probably a sony. The cnet reviews of lag time rate the sony tvs as fastest (although the difference is un-noticeable to many)

Since sony and samsung share a screen manufacturing plant; and the sony tv's seem to have a small bezel like the samsung. I'm going to assume that a 40" will fit (slotted) in a standard cab, and 46" will fit (slotted) in a wide body.

Now to decide if I go with a 40 or 46.

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Go big or go home is what I say!! I had the same problems and I figured I was only going to build ONE of these bad boys so might as well go big! What ever you decide, it will turn out awesome and you will have fun doing it!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

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Wow!

Nice TV. Bezels are awesomely small. Are you sure the game mode turns off internal processing? I read not all do. This is what can cause lag (so I have read). The one thing I worried about with larger screens is the screen door effect. The bigger the screen, the bigger the pixels. A 46" TV is meant to be viewed from further away so as not to see the pixels. Playing on a cab means your right up close. I would stay at 39" or 40" max for this reason. Even at that size I wonder. After playing FX2 on my 27" 120hz 3d vision display, I think that no TV could match the image quality. I may just build a mini Hyperpin with the ASUS 27" VG278HE display for playfield.

Edited by nromo

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For the back glass I'm going to find a cheap 32" tv. Probably something used.

post-63279-142870614392_thumb.jpg

I found a cheap tv. Pd $100 for it.

But it turns out to be a 37". I didn't look to closely at it. I just made sure it worked, and gave them the cash. The screen is 32" wide. Will this look to big as a back box? What do you guys think. I don't see another build with a 46 PF and a 37 BB.

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[ATTACH=CONFIG]36274[/ATTACH]

I found a cheap tv. Pd $100 for it.

But it turns out to be a 37". I didn't look to closely at it. I just made sure it worked, and gave them the cash. The screen is 32" wide. Will this look to big as a back box? What do you guys think. I don't see another build with a 46 PF and a 37 BB.

I think that a 37" mounted normally will look weird. An actual backbox is no more than about 25-26 inch wide. You could consider mounting the backbox TV in portrait mode. there have been several builds with a portrait mounted 16:9 TV as a backbox. Usually this is done by EM lovers. Here is an example: http://www.vpforums.org/index.php?showtopic=14734

By far the best option is a 30" 16:10 monitor. Unfortunately, these are REALLY expensive.

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I'm building a pincab and I try to find adequate screens for it. I'm using an empty Gottlieb James Bond pinball which is a widebody.

I can't find any screen which fits my pinball :

- for the playfield : I can put inside the pinball a screen with a height bigger than 580mm and maxed out at 600mm : a 42" is ~570mm and a 46" is more than 610mm

- for the backglass : the good screen size seems to be 30" but I can't find one below 1000€ (~1300$) here in France

any hints without woodworking ?

Edited by pouyoux

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