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Dr. Willy

How hard does this sound?

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Okay,

I have a chance to get a blue xpin dmd for a really good price bnib sealed still, problem is its the standard version and not the 5 volt version to use on a hyperpin cab. I contacted brett at xpin and asked for directions on converting it. I have extreme faith in my soldering skill, I have just never done anything like this converting a board over. Here are the directions he gave me

Remove L1

Add R21, a Zero ohm resistor

Add D2 and make sure polarity is as marked on the silk screen.

Trim all unused pins on the power connection.

If done incorrectly, you may damage the board on power up. It has happened.

One other note...the warranty will be void if you do it. I have had to many botched conversions that I have had to repair under the warranty that I am very reluctant to allow anybody to do it. '

So to my guys who are board soldering masters what are you opinions. I wish I had the board here to take pics but I am deciding if I should get it and try or just not try at all.

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Sounds simple if there through mounted components, but if there surface mounted then it might be tiny components that are difficult to solder.

But if it can be done, and your confident that you can, and breaking the xpin won't break the bank... Then do it. Give it a try.

Pics would be nice

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I'm in the same boat except that I have no soldering skills to speak of.

What I am considering is running the XPin off of a DMD piggy board that was originally designed to bypass the HV portion of faulty WPC display driver boards. I would use an 80VAC transformer as the HV input. I don't think you need the 100VAC input that the piggy back board converts to the -110VDC signal with the XPin? I'll be able to test this out in a few days.

Of course, all this adds to the cost. It may not be as cost effective as simply getting an LV version at MSRP. XPin still shows in stock for the blue LV.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free

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