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vampirolatino2

Star Wars: FG - Widebody 46"/DMD/29"

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Hi! I'm working in my cab (slowly, just a few hours each weekend) ... but I want to start the thread of my build. Here is a few pics of the progress and some of the "toys", later I will list all the stuff for reference and to help anyone find them easy.

Next step, primer/painting. Then install all the toys/pc, etc.

edit: pictures look right in my pc ... why they show rotated when I upload them? oh well

edit 2: list of parts, soon links and pictures of the items!!

edit 3: think I manage to fix the damn pictures :)

List of parts:

Cabinet

- Standard Williams Widebody plans (Thanks mameman!!) (link to PDF)

- 2x Sheets 3/4” Plywood (picture) (link to buy)

- Original Williams/Stern Start, Extra Ball and Launch buttons (Launcher of AFM) (picture) (link to buy)

- Original Williams Speaker Panel (picture) (link to buy)

- Pinball Coin Door + Dual Coin Mesh (picture) (link to buy)

- Custom Made Coin Door Service Buttons/Panel (picture)

- 4x Leg Protectors - Clear Color (picture) (link to buy)

- Custom Artwork (still working on it) (picture)

- Original Williams Launcher/Plunger (picture) (link to buy)

- 22" Ball Bearing "smooth close" Rails for PC and PCBs (picture) (link to buy)

- Playfield Glass (soon) (picture) (link to buy)

- Power Cable Outlet Quick Connector (For back power cable) (picture) (link to buy)

- Power Kill Switch (For Main, back) (picture) (link to buy)

- Power On Switch (For Power, front/down Cabinet) (picture) (link to buy)

- LEXAN Plexy Glass (For Backglass) (picture) (link to buy)

- 3x Paint (Primer, Black and White) (picture) (link to buy, link to buy, link to buy)

- Aluminum C-Channel (For Speaker Panel) (picture) (link to buy)

- Original Bally Tilt Switch Assembly (picture) (link to buy)

- Legs/Rails/Lockdown Bar/etc from virtuapin.net (got them lighting fast, thanks Paul!!) (picture) (link to buy)

Screens

- Samsung UN46F5500 46-Inch 1080p 120Hz LED HDTV (picture) (link to buy)

- RCA 29” 1080p 60Hz LCD HDTV (picture) (link to buy)

- DMD (picture) (link to buy, alternative link to buy)

- PinDMD2 (For DMD) (picture) (link to buy, alternative link to buy)

- Zeb High Voltage Board (For DMD) (picture) (link to buy, alternative product to buy)

- 17" Dell Monitor (For Backup) (picture) (link to buy)

Computer

(soon)

Sound

- Alpine MRP-F300 Car Amplifier (picture) (link to buy)

- Kicker C10 10" Comp Series Sub 4 Ohm Speaker (picture) (link to buy)

- 2x Kicker DS525 2-Way 5.25" Car Speaker 4 Ohm (picture) (link to buy)

Miscellaneous: (Switches, Wiring, etc.)

- LED-Wiz (picture) (link to buy)

- I-PAC 2 (picture) (link to buy)

- 4x Translucent Buttons (flippers and magnasave) (picture) (link to buy)

- 22, 18 and 8 AWG Copper Stranded Wires (7 colors, a lot) (picture) (link to buy)

- 18 AWG Copper Stranded Wires (Tri-Color RGB+Power for STAR LEDs) (picture) (link to buy)

- 12 AWG Speaker Cable (picture) (link to buy)

- 40x 3AG in line Fuse Holders (picture) (link to buy)

- 3x Fuse Holder (for main power, dmd transformer and knocker?) (picture) (link to buy)

- 100x Fuse 250V Fast 3AG 500ma (picture) (link to buy)

- 10x Fuse 250V Slow 3AG 500ma (picture) (link to buy)

- 10x Fuse 250V Slow and Fast 3AG 1A/1.5A/3A (picture) (link to buy)

- 5x 9-Pin/4-Pin/15-Pin Molex Male/Female Connectors (picture) (link to buy)

- 10x 3/5/7-Pin Molex Male/Female Connectors (picture) (link to buy)

- 100x 22/18 Gauge Female Quick Disconnects (.187" size) (picture) (link to buy)

- 100x 22/18 Gauge Female Quick Disconnects (.250" size) (picture) (link to buy)

- 100x 22/18 Gauge Pro Nylon Butt Connectors (picture) (link to buy)

- Smart Energy-Saving Power Strip (picture) (link to buy)

- 2x Wire Ducts/Covers (customized) (picture) (link to buy, link to buy)

- 20x Heatsinks for 3W RGBs/1W Leds (picture) (link to buy, link to buy)

- 16x Heatsinks for LED-Wiz and other chips components (picture) (link to buy)

- Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive (for LED heatsinks) (picture) (link to buy)

- 30x Assorted Microswitches (long hinge, roller, etc) (picture) (link to buy, link to buy)

- 20x Clear Mini Mars and Dome Tabs (picture) (link to buy, link to buy)

- 12x 3p/6p/12p Terminal Blocks (picture) (link to buy, link to buy, link to buy)

- 2x PS3 Eye Cameras (for BAM) (picture) (link to buy)

- Battery holder (for BAM) (picture) (link to buy)

- 5x Car Relays + Quick Harnes (picture) (link to buy)

- 20x Diodes (For Knocker, Contactors, etc) (picture) (link to buy)

- 100x Resistors (All sizes needed for fun ideas) (picture) (link to buy)

- 10x 27ohms 5W Resistors for RGB (blue and green color) (picture) (link to buy)

- 5x 33ohms 5W Resistors for RGB (red color) (picture) (lint to buy)

- Assorted Size Heat Shrink Tubing (picture) (link to buy)

- 5x LED Amplifiers for extra 5 RGBs (picture) (link to buy)

- 20x Quick connectors for LED Amplifiers (picture) (link to buy)

- Lot of Extras!!!

Force Feedback

- Williams/Bally Knocker (SA-2-23) (picture) (link to buy)

- Custom Knocker Strike Plate (For Knocker) (picture)

- Volkswagen Wiper Motor (For Gear) (picture) (link to buy)

- 8x Siemens Contactors 3RT1016-1BB41 (picture) (link to buy)

- L298N Dual H Bridge DC Stepper Motor Drive Controller Board (For Shaker) (picture) (link to buy)

- 2x Bore Hub (For Shaker) (picture) (link to buy)

- 2x Shaft Collar (For Shaker) (picture) (link to buy)

- Pittman 19 Volt DC Dual Shaft Motor (Shaker Motor) (picture) (link to buy) (alternative $5 motor!!!)

- 2x Conduit Hanger (For Shaker Motor) (picture) (link to buy)

- Topper Fan (Custom Made) (picture)

Power

- 12V 15A 180W Switching Power Supply (picture) (link to buy)

- 24V 14.6A 350W Regulated Switching Power Supply (picture) (link to buy)

- 24V 2A Switching Power Supply (For Knocker and any extras) (picture) (link to buy)

- 80v/100v Transformer (For DMD) (picture) (link to buy)

Lighting

- 4x small RGB LEDs (For Flipper and Magnasave) (picture) (link to buy)

- 10x "Chinese" LED STAR RGB (lol ... and I think the RGB labels are backward?) (picture) (link to buy) ... yes they are, where it say R+ is B+, and B+ is R+, G is in the center and is ok. This is important because Red and Blue use different Resistors. ;)

- 2x 22 LED Flash Strobe Light White (For back or top, don't like them at my face :P) (picture) (link to buy)

- 100x White/Yellow/Red/Blue/Green/UV/Infrared 10/5/3mm LEDs (just for fun ideas) (picture) (link to buy, link to buy)

Cooling

2x Rosewill 220mm (for Cabin/PC Door) (picture) (link to buy) Extracting the Hot Air

A few extra 80mm Fans I may use....

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Update for today:

Painted inside white, 2 coats, final coat next week.

Painted outside and top inside black, 1 coat, second and final coat next week.

Fixed Williams Speaker Panel to the Backbox/Backglass, need to paint cushion tape black and paint the whole thing black too.

That's it. Had only today "free" to work in it :(

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Looking good so far. Seems like we're going to have a tandem build going on :D

How are you going to power the flipper LED's? I went with the transparent flipper buttons w LED's also but thinking I'm going to have to pick up a 5V power supply.

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Looking good so far. Seems like we're going to have a tandem build going on :D

How are you going to power the flipper LED's? I went with the transparent flipper buttons w LED's also but thinking I'm going to have to pick up a 5V power supply.

Thanks! Yes, I saw your build thread. I will use the PC Power Supply 5v, or the LEDWiz own 5v from USB ... no need for another PSU :)

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Update:

post-92519-14287062711_thumb.jpg

To do: More painting as you can see. Drill Leg holes, flipper button holes, fan or intake holes, connect all the contactors and put them in their place, start with the PC/LedWiz/Fuse/Resistor board (painted white, is drying right now), start routing all the wires and clip all the connectors.... etc, etc :/

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The white looks really clear as far as being able to see things in the bottom of the cabinet. Going back and forth now.. had planned on doing the whole cab black.

Are you hooking up your plunger to anything or that just for aesthetics?

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The white looks really clear as far as being able to see things in the bottom of the cabinet. Going back and forth now.. had planned on doing the whole cab black.

Are you hooking up your plunger to anything or that just for aesthetics?

It is connected to a end of stroke switch. I think you can see it in the pictures... if not, I will upload one later.

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Coming along nicely! Looks like wiring is just around the corner. I found that part to be a bit tedious.

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:) thanks, yes it is.... burned a finger soldering so, stopped right there lol!! (accident)

Speaker wire, contactors, mains, 12v,24v, 5v and Gnd banks done, painted speaker panel white sides black, buttons wiring, started soldering the rgbs, etc. Now until next weekend :D

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Had a few hours to work in the project today. Cabling and testing the "toys": Gear ok, Motor ok but too powerful :(, leds ok, buttons ok, solenoids ok, knocker ok. Started to route the wires, cut, solder, etc.

Prototype of the LED Bar in work. Will have one in the top too. With some other goodies, Fan, etc. Under cab lightning will be a final step project (maybe). Need to drill more holes and stuff. Waiting for my coin box to drill all the remaining holes at once.

Planing, planing, planing...

Today mess pics:

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Nice build :) About the leds, when using this calculator http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz it gives me the same resistor value for all colors. I bought the excact leds as you(and they are indeed mislabeled) I've bought 22ohm 5w resistors for them to operate at 450mA, do i need to have a different resistor for the red?

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Nice build :) About the leds, when using this calculator http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz it gives me the same resistor value for all colors. I bought the exact leds as you(and they are indeed mislabeled) I've bought 22ohm 5w resistors for them to operate at 450mA, do i need to have a different resistor for the red?

it sounds like you are trying to run these from a 12v supply. if you can run them from a 5v supply you can use smaller resistors (less heat), as the leds run at 2.5v for red and 3.5v for green / blue.

I would run them at 350ma rather than 450.. they are bright enough already

this would require the following resistors:

350ma. (5v supply)

1W or greater 4.7 ohm resistor. (Green / Blue)

2W or greater 8.2 ohm resistor. (Red)

they are rated to 1000ma.. tbh i would probably stick with 350. you can always replace the resistors at a later date if you want them brighter

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Yes i'm using 12v, as all my other components are 12v. As long as i get rid of the heat there is no problem using 12v ? I'll order some 27ohm resistors to lower them to 350mA.

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you can use 12v without any problems, as long as the heat is displaced.

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Nice build :) About the leds, when using this calculator http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz it gives me the same resistor value for all colors. I bought the excact leds as you(and they are indeed mislabeled) I've bought 22ohm 5w resistors for them to operate at 450mA, do i need to have a different resistor for the red?

Hi, sorry for not answering, was working in a Fire Pinball VP table in vpforums. Well if you have brought the same LEDs as me, you need 27ohms and 33ohms 5W resistors. If you are only using 5 RGBs LEDs then buy 10 27ohms 5W and 5 33ohms 5W

I think I had the resistors link in the list ... let me check

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Updated the information, sorry about that!!

Here is the calculation for the RGBs I have .. and you have lol

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5x 33ohms for RED and 10x 27ohms for Blue and Green.

Hope this help you! If you need any other information let me know.

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Thanks, but is there any harm in using 27ohm for all leds? Or is it just that the red will be brighter than the other colors?

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