pixelmagic Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I am going to check my house for secrect cameras cause I was only tinkering with a web page for it on the weekend Pixel! Wasn't think about a blogger site, but after checking out yours again, you have certainl planted the seed. Great, if i can help out just let me know !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pixelmagic Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Hey Pixel,I was checking out the updates to your site and see that you ordered 9 contactors. I ordered 9 as well, but only did so to have one as a spare. What are your plans for the 9th contactor? Thanks My plans ? Nothing big, only this: http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15644 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 Well my first day back at work and I was a busy boy. I took up Pixels advice and have started a blog so the link on the first post now takes you there. Dont expect it to be anywhere near as extensive as Pixels but I will see if I can drag some feedback out of the people that use the guide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shibbynator Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 guys, another question on the electric side, testing my basic electric knowledge. I found me a psu that has seperate circuits... 1x +3.5V, 1x +5V, 4x +12V I can use 2x +12V for all in and outputs, leaving me 2x +12V. Now... if I put those in parallel on a terminal, should mean I also have +24V right?? Could be use for all other stuff that is using 24V? just to be sure this is correct ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pixelmagic Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 guys, another question on the electric side, testing my basic electric knowledge.I found me a psu that has seperate circuits... 1x +3.5V, 1x +5V, 4x +12V I can use 2x +12V for all in and outputs, leaving me 2x +12V. Now... if I put those in parallel on a terminal, should mean I also have +24V right?? Could be use for all other stuff that is using 24V? just to be sure this is correct ;-) I would say: NO ! You need +12 and -12 together to make 24. Two times +12v is just 12v. But to be sure, measure it ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 Pixel is right. But you have actually stated in your question why it wont become 24 volts. When you wire any same voltage DC in Parallel, it will have the sum of both amperage available i.e. 2 x 10 amp rails in parallel will have 20 amp output. When you wire any DC voltage in series , it will have the sum of thier volatges on thier output. i.e. Picture tells a better story here - Now while this works great with batteries, I dont think it will work with an ATX power supply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shibbynator Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 allright thought something was right, didn't know it was series ;-) problem is, they have ground in commen, so can't put them in series :-( damned :-D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeeGor Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Hey Max, Was the H-Bridge / Shaker diagram removed from the pdf? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 Good pick up DeeGor! I remember looking for an updated pic from Chris's new cab and must have got sidetracked... or drunk which happens a bit Thanks mate. Will track down the updated image and add it back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohusky Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Others on this forum don't have that problem. You need to swap the VBs for the lighter German beers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 Lmao. VB = battery acid. Hangover in a can. More the Jame Squire ales for me. A mothers love bottled for all to enjoy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohusky Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 James squires is nice. I got stuck into the local Little creatures- Pale Ale and Bright Ale over Xmas for a change from the usual European imports. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohusky Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Anyway...back on topic. The guide is coming along nicely. As someone who is spending more time getting their head around everything it is certainly a valuable reference. The schematic is a brilliant touch showing how everything interconnects and communicates with LEDWIZ and the IPAC. The only suggestions i've got for further enhancement would be to continue expansion on detail of the toys (contractors,knocker,wiper etc). Additional details for the newbie that would be useful would be their role in the grand scheme of things and maybe comments on positioning (eg contactor locations) and maybe include some install photo examples. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 Cheers neohusky. Appreciate the feedback (Went to the little creatures brewery in July WA.... messy lad that day!) Will take your comments on board and work it into the next upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohusky Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 It would have certainly made for a very messy day Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shibbynator Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 (edited) The only suggestions i've got for further enhancement would be to continue expansion on detail of the toys (contractors,knocker,wiper etc). Additional details for the newbie that would be useful would be their role in the grand scheme of things and maybe comments on positioning (eg contactor locations) and maybe include some install photo examples. +1 very good idea ;-) help on nudging tools and what could be best to use would be very usefull too... Edited January 17, 2012 by Shibbynator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 help on nudging tools and what could be best to use would be very usefull too... Problem with nuding tools is that there is so many differnt types - mercury switch, plumb bob switch, Mot-tion board, Inverted gamepad...... etc I have not tried a lot of these options so I certainly would not be able to say which was best. That is up to the individual, rather than my unproven opinion. In the end I decided to put in the plumb bob and merc switch wiring details, as the gamepad idea needs to have Gstav's threads read to understand how it works and config and the Mot-ion board is supported over at VPF, so I wouldn't want to step on Noahs toes. I can probably add the links to the gamepad and Mot-ion threads if you think they may help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohusky Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 I agree! Rather than suggesting the best option I think references and links to the different options would benefit ppl in allowing them to pick a solution that best suits their budget,needs and capabilities. With permission of the appropriate forum 'experts' photos of installs would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shibbynator Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 indeed can follow this idea... maybe it's a good idea if there is a solution that somebody has used that is not giving good results that those people give this feedback to prevent other people installing it wrongly?? giving budget ideas on each solution would indeed be helpfull too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shibbynator Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 ok guys another question. I see a lot of pc psu's. Why not using one of these power outs of 12V for feeding ledwiz, ipac and all the other stuff? most still have other psu's for feeding the tools? if this psu is strong enough, you should expect it to be able to be used for everything... has this a reason why it's seperate?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeeGor Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 The idea is to protect your PC from damage should anything go wrong with your toys. A 12v power supply really isn't that expensive, and it may end up saving you a lot of money should something happen. If you don't want to buy one, you could make your own out of an old PC power supply. I actually did that, because I ended up frying my first one when I accidentally wired it up to the 24v bank on my ledwiz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numiah Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 ok guys another question.I see a lot of pc psu's. Why not using one of these power outs of 12V for feeding ledwiz, ipac and all the other stuff? most still have other psu's for feeding the tools? if this psu is strong enough, you should expect it to be able to be used for everything... has this a reason why it's seperate?? It's strong enough for buttons, LED strobes, flashers and contactors, but when you run a gear motor and / or shaker it gets toasted. (speaking out of experience hehe) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 I personally wouldn't like to use the PSU connected to my PC for my toys. Some of the toys we use and Numiah pointed out can have some large current draw which would put a lot of strain on the PSU 12 volt rail, let alone some inductive loads that may give high voltage spikes back to the PSU and the rest of your PC. But if you have a spare ATX power supply that you would like to use - here is the link on how to go about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcovercash Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I can't find the 1N4007 diodes in my area... Can I use 1N4005 in their place? I am running 12v on.a few items and 24v on contactors and replay knocker. Thanks Josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 The 4005's should be fine. You wont need one on the reply knocker as it should driven by the LEDwiz via a relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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