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maxxsinner

Pinball Electrical 101

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Some great info there antropus. Thanks for the link.

DigitalMocking, not sure where the other guys are getting their crees from, but a quick google search showed this web site from the US http://www.ledsupply.com/creemce.php

For heat sinks, I have seen some use aluminum flat bar for ease of installation. I used ones from RScomponents.

If you check a couple of the build threads, I am sure some posted links to where they purchased gear from - http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?17455-Indiana-Jones-and-the-Pinball-Crusade-(46-28-15)-build-project

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Hey Guys,

New to the HyperSpin forums and have been reading up quite a bit about building a HyperPin unit and am pretty pumpe to start a build!

Do you guys know of any How to's on how or step by steps for building your cabinet?

I could build a cabinet fine but to have a guide to minimise time and error would be great!

All builds ive seen are looking great and am looking forward to a finished product of my own to show off :)

Thanks guys.

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Hi Guys, :hello:

I love the guide and it has given me a lot to look at and learn from … thank you.:beer:

I have one comment, it seems to me that this guide and most of the posts are all about going “BIG” or not doing anything, I think there is something to be said about doing only what is needed to get a cabinet built and working and then down the road adding toys along the way. Looking at it from very limited funds aspect I am looking to do what I can with what I have on hand or can get very inexpensive.

So with that said I have a couple questions to ask the experts here.

On this PC reset / power switch that I took from an old PC I really need it to power on my T.V. also. If I can do it all from one switch (PC>>46”>>32”) then cool, if not I have 2 of these that I will use one for the PC and the other for the T.V.’s …. Using my meter I have found out that pin 1 is NO and pin 2 is Com/GND and pin 3 is NC, now it is the same on the other side so 4 is NO, 5 is GND, 6 is NC. Can I put the 2 TV’s on 4 and 5 and put the PC on 1 and 2? The numbers are for reference only as the switch is not marked.

post-96597-142870610061_thumb.jpg

Leading into the next question; … how do I make my second PC Power supply turn on from the primary PC power supply?

I know about the green to black jumper and I think I have read someplace that it can see up to a +5v signal, right? So can I take a jumper from the +5v of the PC power supply and attach it to the green lead of the second supply or would I need to attach the green from the second supply to the ground of the primary PC Supply? I am thinking that the latter is correct. I’m just trying to eliminate as many turn on issues for the family as possible. The next approach would be to work with the main power into the cabinet. Right now I have a good quality power strip surge protector that stays on all the time (when plugged in) inside the cabinet. The second power supply is always on this way because of the green to black jumper. It is running fans, led’s, button lights, RGB light strip, toys, and the DMD monitor. To totally power down I have to unplug it now, not a real bad thing but a hassle none the less.

OK that is all I have for now, I have a question on my choice of solenoid and relay but I will save that for the next round when I am closer to getting that wired in …. I made a little progress today as the wife took the kids to Grammy’s house for most of the day.

Here is a link to the Dropbox folder that upload pictures as I take them from my phone. On track for a thanksgiving day reveal to the extended family ... Enjoy

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qyyzgwew645n89p/9D_xD-yvKm

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the easiest solution to the simple power on problem is to use a power strip with a master socket, so when that device connected to the master socket is powered on (the pc on most cases) the strip supplies power to the other sockets (monitors, speakers and the other psu for toys)

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Mikekim ... thank you I think that is the way I want to go also. That will work for the second power supply for the toys and LEDs. The problem with the PF and the BG screens is that I have to either push the power button physically or use the remotes to bring them out of standby as they do not detect input signal to power on. So I need still address the first question with the switch.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

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Hey Les. Glad the guide could help you out.

I have one comment, it seems to me that this guide and most of the posts are all about going “BIG” or not doing anything, I think there is something to be said about doing only what is needed to get a cabinet built and working and then down the road adding toys along the way. Looking at it from very limited funds aspect I am looking to do what I can with what I have on hand or can get very inexpensive.

I put all the options that we had available to us then so people could pick and choose what they wanted if they didn't want to go "big". I understand the limited budget totally, but trying to install stuff down the track will mean the playfield monitor will need to be removed. I personally want to install my TV and never touch it again. :)

Check to see if you haven't already, if you monitor remebers its last state if powered off from the wall. Most TV's and monitors do these days, otherwise you will have to install your buttons. Keep the control circuits for the tv's seperated as one might have a 5v input to turn it on and the other may be ground = release of magic smoke.

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Well I can certainly understand that as I have had mine out and back in too many times for sure. Unfortunately both TV's go into a standby state when plugged in no matter the state when unplugged. Both TV's use similar control manual boards and using the ohm meter the switches are momentary only just like the PC switch pictured, only on a smaller scale. So using the wire ribbon harness can I wire them to that switch pictured or will there be a feedback issue?

I will link the pictures in a minute

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

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post-96597-142870610169_thumb.jpg

The pin locations are hard to see but using the ohm meter I can see what pins are connected when the power button is pushed. so I believe that it is just a short to ground, correct?

post-96597-142870610166_thumb.jpg

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My next question is one that is basic I think but it is taxing my brain late at night ...

on the picture below ... the relay, can you tell me if I am correct in what I am reading?

post-96597-142870610171_thumb.jpg

Going to the solenoid pictured below ....

post-96597-142870610173_thumb.jpg

What is messing me brain up is that the LED Wiz likes to switch the ground side, but does that matter with the relay involved?

the wiring will go; LED Wiz >>to fuse >> to relay then relay to solenoid ... is this correct?

oh yeah ... also this seems to be a latching relay? There is a diode built in from what I am looking at, do I need another on the solenoid itself?

Edited by Les73gtx
added question

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[ATTACH=CONFIG]34919[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]34920[/ATTACH]

The pin locations are hard to see but using the ohm meter I can see what pins are connected when the power button is pushed. so I believe that it is just a short to ground, correct?

Although it's likely to be switching to ground, it would be impossible to tell without hooking it up and testing. I would keep the two circuits separate by wiring them to each side of the normally open/common on your button.

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My next question is one that is basic I think but it is taxing my brain late at night ...

on the picture below ... the relay, can you tell me if I am correct in what I am reading?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]34921[/ATTACH]

Yep that is correct for your relay.

Going to the solenoid pictured below ....

[ATTACH=CONFIG]34922[/ATTACH]

What is messing me brain up is that the LED Wiz likes to switch the ground side, but does that matter with the relay involved?

The ledwiz is only controlling the ground on the relay to switch the relay on and off. The ledwiz doesn't care what you are switching with the relay.

the wiring will go; LED Wiz >>to fuse >> to relay then relay to solenoid ... is this correct?

LEDwiz to fuse to where you marked the relay on the first pic. Then from 12v to the relay. from the switch side of the relay to the solenoid.

oh yeah ... also this seems to be a latching relay? There is a diode built in from what I am looking at, do I need another on the solenoid itself?

A latching relay? So it remains closed even when the power is taken off the coil? I would put a diode on the solenoid just to make the contacts on your relay live a bit longer.

Hope that helps

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Your da man! Thank you Maxx.

Very very helpful.

Latching relay ... not sure why I thought it was but that was stuck in my head last night.

Thank you for your time, Maxxsinner

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

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my shaker motor and works quite well its a 12v motor out of an old printer weighted so its off balance

Photo0268.jpg

and heres my gear motor this is part of a video recorder and a socket wrench in reverse

Photo0269.jpg

cheap and cheerful but both seem to work well

from all the posts i read this guy is the most brilliant of them all , like his way of thinking out of the box :D

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can somebody tell me what resistors i need for this led http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-3W-High-Power-RGB-Led-6-Pins-Full-Color-1W-New-/330700235638?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cff452376 , cant work with the resistorcalculator :stupido2: , i will connect them to 12v !?

also is there a diagram for connecting the leds , i like to connect them parallel playfield to backbox ?

Edited by boiydiego

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The calculation below is how to hook up your Red LEDs in series -

Red%2520in%2520series.PNG

And this one is the same for both your Blue and Green LEDs in series -

Green%2520and%2520Blue%2520series.PNG

Make sure you are using high powered resistors for these arrays. Although the calculator states that it's only drawing 350 mA from the source, I would worried about hooking these arrays straight up to a LEDwiz output.

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I have come across a pacled64 and want to replace the ledwiz in my pincab with it to gain more outputs. I have the ledwiz hooked up to two of Zebs early booster boards with only the usb and the wires coming from the booster boards connected to it.

Can i just disconnect the wires from the ledwiz and connect them to the output pins of the pacled64. The ledwiz has no external power connected to it so do i not need to supply power to the pacled64 either.

 

Cheers

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