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maxxsinner

High Voltage pin 46/27/DMD

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Just because I run out of things to run wires in around my house, I decided to sell

my first cabinet and start all over again.

Going with the time aged tradition of never going backwards, I am going with custom artwork, a lowered LED TV and some new kinds of bling thanks to Pixel and Co.

So beginneth High Voltage Pin

post-13490-142870575525_thumb.jpg

HIGH VOLTAGE!

Let’s start off with the juicy bits :D

Computer

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Corsair 16GB Kit, PC-12800 (1600MHz) DDR3, Vengeance Series, 9-9-9-27

·
Corsair Cooling Hydro Series H60 High-performance CPU Cooler

·
Creative Gigaworks T3 BLACK Speakers

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Gigabyte GA-X79-UD3

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Intel Core i7 3930K

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Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate

·
OCZ 120GB SSD, 2.5", Vertex 3 MAX IOPS Edition

·
Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium HD PCIe

·
Corsair AX-850 850W ATX Power Supply

Cabinet

·

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Virtuapin Button Package

·
Virtuapin Widebody lockdown bar

·
Williams/Bally coin door

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Mot-ion Plunger

·

Shad.JPG

Displays

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Sony KDL46EX720

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Asus 27" Widescreen LED monitor

·
with

Bling

·
Gear Wiper motor

Already recieved a rough diagram of the side art

voltage.jpg

And the end result.

Sideartfix_small.jpg

Two pinballs worth of parts... and there was still stuff on back order!

P1010786.JPG

Screen Test - Poor old laptop didn't like to play VP for long before crashing.

20120422_140457.jpg

Edited by maxxsinner

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Wow - Max, this is gonna be over the top - Knocker, 10x Contactor - 10x LEDs - It's sounds like SUPER BLING!!!!!

BTW, ArcadeWorx has good price for new cabinet shell - Not so great for us in the states, though.

Are you gonna use that High Power Booster boards from Zebulon?

Edited by boogies2

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Will be using Pixels boards when they are made available with Arduino boogies2 and Zebs boards as well as I have a few left over.

Got a few ideas for how I am going to back light the side art so I am going to need a few outputs :D

Will try and do a bit of a 'how to' mainly on the electrical stuff as I go

First step for me was to put the Cree's onto the heatsinks with a bit of arctic silver epoxy. Rubber bands to hold them in place.

20120426_065604.jpg

Then time to solder. The simple trick to solder for those that haven't done it before, is to pre-solder the pads on the Cree,

20120501_091010.jpg

Then pre- solder the wire and then put the wire in place and put some heat into it until the solder flows on both the pad and the wire.

20120501_090656.jpg

Ok.. active wire done. Another 60 wires to go..... :D

Edited by maxxsinner

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The theme is extremely fitting for ya Max. Can't wait to see what other toys/ideas you come up with.

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Looking good, so based on the pc parts in the pic are you building 1 or 2 machines?

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2 Mameman. Building one with the same cab and similar bling but with a classic Bride of pinbot side art (at this point), similar to Granters from a while ago.

I was going to build one for my brother at the same time as electropin but we got side tracked with other things, so now we are making it happen. Will be posting pics of it as we go also.

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He was too WIRED! All AMPed up! Couldn't RESIST!

IC you've SOURCEd everything but the kitchen SINK...

We're LED to believe this will outSTRIP ElectroPin.

Get your GEARmotors running. It'll be FLASH. I know and ARDUI Knows Too!

It's HIGH VOLTAGE! :D

and here endeth the really poor Sparky humour!! LOL.

I'm watching with intent to plagiarise and be amazed.

But seriously....Just wondering why you've wired common +ve on the LED's and switching -ve. As arduino switches on +ve. Just habit from the ledwiz days or preference to still switch on -ve with Zebs boards making it possible? My LED's turned up this week which left me scratching my head on which way to wire them up. Common anode, or common cathode. The 350ma Crees I bought have +/- for each colour around the star, not all +ve's grouped like yours. Thanks for explaining to a noob.

Cheers,

Arkay.

Edited by Arkay

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Lol! :aetsch:

The medium driver boards from both Pixel and Zebulon are using the ULN2803 Darlington pair driver chips, the same ones that are used on the LEDwiz so they only switch the ground out put as they have an inverter in the chip. A high input creates a low output.

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Lol! :aetsch:

The medium driver boards from both Pixel and Zebulon are using the ULN2803 Darlington pair driver chips, the same ones that are used on the LEDwiz so they only switch the ground out put as they have an inverter in the chip. A high input creates a low output.

Ah ok. Thanks. I've gone the lazy man approach with the high output boards so it doesn't matter what gets plugged where. But I will have to watch the switching polarity so I don't mess it up.

Enough semi-relevant discussion. On with the show! ;)

Cheers,

Arkay.

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This ought to be a fun build to watch....remember to keep the empties in view as work progresses for those of us keeping score (there's gotta be a pool in this - "how many beers will it take Maxx to build a cab?") :top:

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Lmao Zeb. Will do my best to have a beer in every shot for you from now on.

Actually if you look at the electropin build, the missus was disgusted how many stubbies were in the photos...... Meh :D

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Can't wait to see this one come together! Art is looking good even in sketch form.

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Lmao Zeb. Will do my best to have a beer in every shot for you from now on.

Actually if you look at the electropin build, the missus was disgusted how many stubbies were in the photos...... Meh :D

reminds me of mine with the milk crate full of empties holding the cab up...lol....and it wasn't the beer that disgusted the missus, thought you were aware of that by now.

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So after selling a kidney, my soul and my first born son, I managed to track down two of these rare little beauties.

20120505_211301%255B1%255D.jpg

There was two left in a warehouse somewhere in Singapore but I am sorry gents, these were the last two.

They have two of the red 8x8 matrix type like I had in my first cab but I think they are overpriced.

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Soldered up my resistor board. This time around I am going for a dedicated 3.3 volt rated power supply for my Cree LED's. This means my resistor size can be lower wattage. So as per the LED calculator with a power supply running at 3.7 volts (adjusment dial on the power supply to bump it up)

I can run my Crees at 600 mA using a 1.2 Ohm resistor for the Green and Blue and a 2.2 Ohm for the red using the info on the Cree MC-E datasheet - @ 700mA - Red 2.3 V, Green 3.7 and Blue 3.5 (Wont be using the white on these ones)

And for those keeping count...... it was a 4 stubbie job :D

P1010804.JPG

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Funny to see you drink anything that you get your hands on lol

Luckily there was no Windex laying around :D

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Already drank the Windex Numiah.... Just out of the shot to the left :D

Variety is the spice of life.

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Bit of an update.

Cabinet design all sorted with Arcadeworx. Troy is unbelievable on how much work he puts into to getting the cabinet just right.

This is just a render from the software he uses so it's close to what the finished product will look like with the obvious minor things corrected.

ben_pin3.JPG

Still haven't worked out why I seem to be the only one that starts with the wiring side of things first... :hmmmm2::D

Power supplies - 12, 3.7 & 24 Volt

20120516_080250.jpg

Rats nest 1.....

20120516_080203.jpg

Rats nest 2.....

20120516_080212.jpg

Now I just have to work out what those wires all do??

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Tangle :questionmark:

Well. It would if I tried to make something like that...

Edited by Arkay

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