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Day of the Pinheads - Widebody 46/32/DMD


Aurich

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Haven't been updating much lately, sorry about that, 2013 is kinda kicking my ass. Haven't had as much build time. But I'm closing into the finish line for phase 1:

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I'll take some proper photos and detail anything that seems like it might he helpful to share.

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Still need to properly document, but snapped a few phone shots today:

Detail of the speaker panel, really pleased with how Mameman CNC'd my spiderweb design:

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and both sides:

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Full cab shot:

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and finally, this little Logitech keyboard rules, it's wireless, compact, and has a built in touchpad. Perfect for easy admin of stuff.

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Edit: You may notice no strobes on my flasher bar. I mounted them under the cab, in the front, facing down. So now the floor lights up under you when they fire off. I much prefer this, they were just too damn bright aimed at my eyes. Has a nice immersive effect now.

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Still need to properly document, but snapped a few phone shots today:

Detail of the speaker panel, really pleased with how Mameman CNC'd my spiderweb design:

8465549387_b6f4fedcbb_b.jpg

NICE! That looks really slick. I take it you're not planning on putting a speaker cover/grill over the speakers then?

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NICE! That looks really slick. I take it you're not planning on putting a speaker cover/grill over the speakers then?

Yeah, no, this was designed to not have grills, the inside of the panel is routed out to get the speakers poking out, the tweeter extends past the front of the panel. Obviously in a commercial setting you need the grills to keep people from poking your speaker cones, but pretty sure I can trust my friends to not go there. ;)

I should snap a pic of the back, because the panel is routed out like that there wasn't enough MDF to actually sink screws into to mount the speakers. So I rigged a system of metal brackets and zip ties that keep the speakers firmly in place without using the normal screw mounts.

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Getting ready to test assemble the Indiana Jones gun. I had to order parts from a couple shops to get everything for this, I imagine it's a reproduction, and not NOS, but the quality seems the same either way. To find everything I hunted down the manual, and the schematic has all of the part numbers that you can use for reference.

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I really like the Indiana Jones gun. I've been debating about using one on my build as I haven't really liked the options for using a plunger that are currently available. Where did you get yours from? I've been looking around but haven't found a place to purchase one from yet? What kind of price do they go for?

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I just got the same wireless Logitech keyboard. Only bummer about it is it doesn't have the keys you need to resize tables in Future Pinball, otherwise it's perfect.

I solved that problem by never installing FP. ;)

(Actually I'd like to mess with it some day now that DMD support is being worked on.)

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I really like the Indiana Jones gun. I've been debating about using one on my build as I haven't really liked the options for using a plunger that are currently available. Where did you get yours from? I've been looking around but haven't found a place to purchase one from yet? What kind of price do they go for?

I had to source the parts from a couple of different places. But as you can see from the bags Marco is the spot. Start here: http://www.marcospecialties.com

I think I had to get the trigger from somewhere else (which I ultimately replaced with the acrylic one, and if you want a clear trigger I'll send you one, no charge, got a bunch lying around) and I had to find the carriage bolts to mount it somewhere else. The trick is to grab the Indiana Jones manual, it has a parts list that you can reference. I think you can even search Marco by the part #s in the manual to find everything.

I love the gun, very pleased with it. I've tried to document how it looks with the trigger lit up, flashes for the launch ball event off the LED-Wiz.

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Video:

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Why does your PF look smashed? Is it a background or something?

Heh, yeah, that's just the wallpaper I designed for it, amused me to make the glass look cracked when the pinball stuff isn't running. Does look a bit dire in that photo I guess! :)

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I had to source the parts from a couple of different places. But as you can see from the bags Marco is the spot. Start here: http://www.marcospecialties.com

I think I had to get the trigger from somewhere else (which I ultimately replaced with the acrylic one, and if you want a clear trigger I'll send you one, no charge, got a bunch lying around) and I had to find the carriage bolts to mount it somewhere else. The trick is to grab the Indiana Jones manual, it has a parts list that you can reference. I think you can even search Marco by the part #s in the manual to find everything.

I love the gun, very pleased with it. I've tried to document how it looks with the trigger lit up, flashes for the launch ball event off the LED-Wiz.

I'll take you on that offer. The clear triggers are pretty slick when you light them with an LED. I'll pm you my address. Thanks!

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Watch your mail. :)

One thing to be aware of with the triggers is they're *just* slightly thinner than the metal ones. So what I ended up doing was making a little paper ring around the metal post the triggler hole slides over to help it not wiggle. It doesn't take much, and it's invisible from the outside.

Also, you'll need to make sure you order the spring for the trigger, it hooks on the back and then a post inside the gun, what makes it spring back into place. I think I got that from Marco though, not with the metal trigger.

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Watch your mail. :)

One thing to be aware of with the triggers is they're *just* slightly thinner than the metal ones. So what I ended up doing was making a little paper ring around the metal post the triggler hole slides over to help it not wiggle. It doesn't take much, and it's invisible from the outside.

Also, you'll need to make sure you order the spring for the trigger, it hooks on the back and then a post inside the gun, what makes it spring back into place. I think I got that from Marco though, not with the metal trigger.

Looking over the gun assembly parts list, I'm wondering if I actually need to order all the parts listed? Also, it isn't clear on the number of washers, etc. I need. It also doesn't appear to list the bolts, washers and nuts used to bolt the gun to the cabinet itself. Any insight before I start to order parts would be appreciated.

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You need almost all of it.

To mount the gun to the cabinet you need carriage bolts like this: http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_29&products_id=285&zenid=tftk7coq8s8o57tdqatpk674a6

I *think* those are 10-24 1.5"

You need both gun halves, trigger (covered), spring, the bolts and sleeves to put halves together, and pushbutton with lever arm. That's the minium.

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So now that I have it all together, with the glass over the screen etc, I wanted to mention the sound.

You may recall I have two sep sounds systems. Two sep amps. ROM noises play out of 4" tweeters and a 10" free mounted sub. Cabinet noises play out of 4" tweeters, and a custom-boxed 8" sub, both inside the cabinet and totally invisible. Sounds awesome, the tweeters point right at your ears behind the TV, the sound is slightly muffled by TV, so you need to turn it up, but it creates the illusion of the noises you hear really coming from inside the cabinet, very effective illusion. I crank the tight bass on the 8" sub a bit. The result is that flippers and poppers etc actually vibrate the sub with enough force to feel, you almost get a force feedback feel even without the contactors. Together with the contactors though they really blend nicely, and that combined with the sound being inside the cab does a lot to fool your brain.

I definitey recommend trying it if you don't mind the extra effort and expense. :)

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You need almost all of it.

To mount the gun to the cabinet you need carriage bolts like this: http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_29&products_id=285&zenid=tftk7coq8s8o57tdqatpk674a6

I *think* those are 10-24 1.5"

You need both gun halves, trigger (covered), spring, the bolts and sleeves to put halves together, and pushbutton with lever arm. That's the minium.

So I don't need to order the cable assembly (H-16871), the Tubing #10 (RM-21-03) or the Diode 1N4004 (5070-09054-00)?

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So I don't need to order the cable assembly (H-16871), the Tubing #10 (RM-21-03) or the Diode 1N4004 (5070-09054-00)?

Nah, I guess I skipped all that. You're doing your own wiring, not using their harness or anything. It's just a microswitch in there, nothing special or crazy.

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