Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
engg100

And so it begins!

Recommended Posts

I have been talking about building a cabinet for years and finally have started. I will be building a 4 player control panel style that hooks up to any TV with an HDMI cable. One cool thing about my cabinet is that I designed my own controller. I want to be able to light all my buttons and joysticks with an RGB LED and configure my buttons and joysticks as keyboard inputs, mouse inputs or joystick inputs but there was no controller that could do everything an it would have cost over $250 to get what I wanted and required 5+ circuit boards. I am an Electronics Engineer so I said screw it and I designed my own! So the Howler Controller was born:

post-23258-142870584433_thumb.jpg

Here are what the specs WILL be for my controller (Hardware 100% operational, working on firmware now):

4 Joysticks (each with RGB LED drive)

- Each joystick consists of 4 inputs and 3 LED drive outputs (for RGB lit joysticks). Inputs can be configured as buttons if joystick operation is not needed.

- Each joystick can be configured as a USB keyboard, USB Digital Joystick, USB Analog Joystick, USB mouse (for spinners and trackballs)

26 buttons (each with RGB LED drive)

- Each button consists of 1 input and 3 LED drive outputs (for RGB lit buttons)

- Each button can be configured as a USB Keyboard keypress, USB Joystick button press, or USB Mouse Button press

Other features:

- Each LED has 255 levels of brightness for 16 MILLION color combinations!

- Working on config program which allows unlimited configuration combinations of USB Keyboard, USB Mouse and USB Joysticks (multiple).

- Requires only 1 USB connection per circuit board.

- USB controller is powered from USB and LEDs are powered with external supply (+3.3V to +12V, whatever user chooses)

- Total number of LEDs that can be individually controller (255 levels) is 92! 3x as much as other controllers!

- Working on command line program to set LEDs so that it may be integrated with Hyperspin to set button/joystick colors for each individual game. (NES games will light up 2x RED buttons, TMNT arcade will light up each controller as the original arcade did (purple, blue, orange, red!).

I will be posting more pics of my cabinet as it gets built. If anyone is interested in my controller, let me know!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Top Control panel cut and routed!

post-23258-142870584436_thumb.jpg

48"x20" 5/8" MDF

Routed for 3/4" T Moulding using 1/16" cutting bit!

This will be a 4 player with trackball and spinner.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What would people be willing to pay for this board considering it replaces >$200 worth of other controllers?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think $100 for one is a great price. ipac-4 and 2 "LED-Wiz 32" boards would do the same thing.. and that would total about $200. So saving us half the price would be pretty amazing. If you made a 2player version for $75 and 1 player version for $50 that would be great also. I think you would sell many more 2 player versions than the 4. Ill even sell them on my online store for ya if you need another distributor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I made some progress on the machine! One question I have is what is the best height for a machine both for standing and sitting? Mine is currently 36" which is too high for sitting. I was thinking maybe 30"? Any suggestions? I also have some pics of my controller driving a joystick RGB LED.

post-23258-142870584463_thumb.jpg

post-23258-142870584465_thumb.jpg

post-23258-142870584467_thumb.jpg

post-23258-142870584468_thumb.jpg

I could probably get the price down to about $90 per board if I had enough interest. Price depends a lot on quantity.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I made some progress on the machine! One question I have is what is the best height for a machine both for standing and sitting? Mine is currently 36" which is too high for sitting. I was thinking maybe 30"? Any suggestions? I also have some pics of my controller driving a joystick RGB LED.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]23741[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]23742[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]23743[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]23744[/ATTACH]

I could probably get the price down to about $90 per board if I had enough interest. Price depends a lot on quantity.

I'd probably pick one of these up. I'd probably be a little hesitant until more people use it, and we get more feedback on how well it works. Don't get wrong, I'm sure you know what you're doing. How long have you had it up and running? I always wondered why nobody has made one of these before? Good stuff! I'll be following this thread. Good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think one of the reasons more people haven't made them is because of the keyboard ghosting and limitations. I think you have to have special software on the chips on the board itself to stop that from happening. I could be totally wrong though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd buy one if the proper testing was done and proof there were no unforeseen issues.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I really like the design of the CP... This is exactly how I should have done mine because I wanted to have pinball buttons on the side and having them on the outside of a quad panel is just way too wide.... are you planning on putting buttons on the side for pinball games ??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes that is the plan! I have to redo the base though because I wanted to make it shorter and the stupid jigsaw blade slipped out of the arbour and screwed up the base :( Now I have to redo the whole base... Maybe I should stick to electronics! I am just gonna go with the base I have for now (made for midgets...) and get my board 100% operational.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's pretty much what my CP looks like and I made sure the width of the section that has the pinball buttons is the standard width of pinball machines.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally got all the pieces together. Just need to finish the base and prime/paint/get graphic overlay for the control panel! But I will be keeping it like this for a bit to get the Howler controller working 100%!

Here are the specs for this 4 player cabinet:

- Total 38 RGB buttons (7 each for players 1 and 2, 4 each for players 3 and 4, 4 for coins, 4 for player starts, 2 for mouse buttons, 3 for pinball games,and 3 for hyperspin control or whatever.

- 4x Happ Competition joysticks with RGB lit Ball tops

- spinner from GGG (will have a RGB lit ring under it when cabinet complete)

- RGB lit trackball from GGG.

Final colors I was thinking black with red T Moulding and custom graphic overlay for control panel.

Here is a pic (it will be like this for a while until I complete the Howler controller)

post-23258-142870584968_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anyone have any suggestions or comments on my control layout? One thing I think I am going to do is move the spinner so that people don't shear it off with a long drive in Golden Tee... Where would be the best place to move it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would move the spinner over to the left so that it is just below the single button which is above the player 1 Buttons.

Oh and are you sure you really want to angle your P3 & P4 Joysticks.

I have played on both non angled and angled, for me straight up is the way to go. But that is just my personal opinion.

Edited by Drnick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

He is right about the angled joysticks. I have angled mine in the past and it was a big mistake. Your brain just doesn't allow you to play correctly when they are angled. And I would make the spinner closer to you. Those are my opinions. :)

I would move the spinner over to the left so that it is just below the single button which is above the player 1 Buttons.

Oh and are you sure you really want to angle your P3 & P4 Joysticks.

I have played on both non angled and angled, for me straight up is the way to go. But that is just my personal opinion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have player 3 and 4 angled I personally don't think it's bad... I will say from aesthetic stand point angled looks way better for a quad panel, especially the way you've designed yours. Besides if you were to just do all players straight it would be crowded when playing multiplayer games IMO... by the way I love how the CP panel came out look's great.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I have player 3 and 4 angled I personally don't think it's bad... I will say from aesthetic stand point angled looks way better for a quad panel, especially the way you've designed yours. Besides if you were to just do all players straight it would be crowded when playing multiplayer games IMO... by the way I love how the CP panel came out look's great.

Um, Other then possibly the artwork how would the angling or non angling of the joysticks make any difference to the aesthetic of the panel?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't think it would make a difference to the aesthetic of the panel, it would make a difference to to functionality of it. I can see where they are coming from, unless the 3 and 4 players are at a 45 degree angle to the table it might feel a bit weird playing a game. If they were straight on to the controller, up is not up, it would be up+left. and down would be down+right.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's been a few weeks but I finally got the Howler controller hardware up and running 100%! Currently I have the LED colors hard-coded in the firmware and the buttons and joystick are seen as a USB joystick. I now have a lot of firmware to write, getting the USB LED driver going and the ability to configure the buttons/joysticks to be either USB joystick presses or keyboard presses. I am also working on a configuration program to make it easy to configure!

What would be the best way to control the LEDs: Virtual comport or generic HID? I am leaning towards generic HID because that is how other boards do it and I would like to get it working with LEDBlinky. Anyone have any suggestions on how it could be better?

post-23258-1428705860_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By natari
      Hi Hyperspin community,
      I've been a Hyperspin member for a while now and this will be my first post. I spent the past couple of days writing my project down from start to almost finished.. I have yet to write down the section about software/configurations/tips/tweaks, hoping I can provide that in an update shortly. Just wanted to say a special thanks to my friends that helped me with this project as well as the others in this awesome community that didn't know it, but your questions & answers helped me get through it all.. Sorry it's pretty lengthy..
      Machine name : Pac-Cade                  Started on the build 11/2017                         Finished (well its about 98% done)
      Here is my couple of month’s life story of my first MAME cabinet build. Please, feel free to read for your enjoyment or skip through and look at the pretty pictures. I’m just hoping that what I went through helps others out with their build.
      I’ve been wanting to build a Mame Cabinet for years and just never pulled the trigger. A friend of mine surprised me with blueprints of a cabinet, I just needed to buy the wood, find the spare time and get off my lazy arse and get it started. Then another friend found a Target Toss Pro Bags cabinet for $50 on ebay. FIFTY Bucks how in the heck could I pass this deal up. As you can see from the photos below, it’s basically a Golden Tee cabinet. After I pulled the trigger, drove up with a friend, put it on his flat bed I got the beast cabinet into my garage, I just stared in awww of all the cool things I want to do with this thing.
      The cabinet came with the bezel, front glass, 4 buttons, marquee clear plastic, coin slots (BONUS) and a lot of dust. It was pretty much gutted but exactly what I was looking for. I wanted an extra wide cabinet so I can have some room for a 2 player setup.

      Right below the marquee is a wooden board with a nice size open hole that had a metal plate where the speakers go and small rectangle tinted glass which you can see it still in the above photos.

      With 12 screws around the edge of the control panel, I took off the lexan (similar) top layer and thankfully it was not glued down so I can use the control board. It was nice to see the metal plate for the track ball, but it just added more questions on how I’m really going to lay all this out.

      Still not really sure how I’m going to layout the control panel at this time, but I do know I want two player (I considered 4 player), trackball, spinner and pinball buttons. So measuring the opening where all the buttons and joystick will go, I found my area to work with.
      This part took the longest out of all the other projects and trying to figure out the layout was killing me slowly. I thought about laying it all out myself with button templates and looking up some cool graphics. I just couldn’t find anything I really liked and just couldn’t visualize it. Then I finally found a layout which was actually based off the Golden Tee control panel and oh my, I was sold. I can’t take credit for this so thanks goes to dmatanski at Deviant Art (hxxps://dmatanski.deviantart.com/art/MAME-large-control-panel-48650519). I found a couple of reasons why this layout is awesome. It’s based off my arcade control panel for one so I don’t have to retro-fit it, but something I never really realized…. 8 way joysticks suck for Pac Man!! So this layout has a third 4-way joystick at the top “classic setup”. Yes, this layout has lots of buttons!!!!!

      After I printed the layout, I purchased some Forstner bits and made a practice control panel out of MDF so I can have a feel for how it’s laid out, practice drilling and get to use the buttons/joysticks I bought. I had my control panel upstairs hooked to what I was going to use; a Pi3 with retropi installed, using an external 500gig HD, attract mode, themes, video previews installed. Retropi is very slick, easy to setup and pretty darn cool and I think it work well in a cabinet.

      Stuff I bought at this time-
      Trackball – 90 bucks off Amazon 2 player buttons and 8-way joystick.. Here is where I think some will say I went cheap, and yes I slightly agree. But I do like them and maybe at a later date I’ll upgrade. Called Easyget LED illuminated 2 player, $67 off Amazon. 3.5 inch circle speaker covers Light bar from Home Depot for the marquee I happened to have an old CRT and my old speakers with subwoofer, so I temporary put them in place. I also removed the upper black wooded border so I can make room for a 2nd monitor idea frame out of MDF. And yeah the previous wood was glued to the marquee bottom board and it broke off.. eh, no biggie.

      While playing on the Pi3, I just found that some mame roms were not work and customizing it was tedious. So, I bailed on the Pi3 and bought a 2.8ghz quad core mobo, 8 gigs ram from a friend and I had some extra parts laying around - 256gig SSD, sata 500gig, nvidia video card. So, now I’m using Hyperspin/rocketlauncher which I’ll go in more setup detail later in this brain dump of mine.
      I had a lot of friends to bounce ideas off and one of them gave me a 28” TV, which I considered to use for that retro look, so I bought a VGA to HDMI adapter from Amazon. I had some trouble with my PC recognizing it adapter and I could never get the TV to display. So, I bailed on it and started pricing out LCDs. I can still use this TV for my old consoles which I collect, so it’s a win win for me.
      I had a quote for a sign shop to have them print my control panel on polycarbonate but it was too expensive for me. I reached out to my friends again and found one that knew a guy that had a full size plotter and once I gave him the dimensions of the control panel he printed me out 4 copies on sticky back vinyl, just in case I screwed up.

      So, onto the secondary monitor thoughts and plans. My first thought was to buy a LCD screen as my marquee and have it just scroll through the game marquees when one is selected, but that area is fairly skinny and the LCDs are VERY expensive. I thought about designing my own marquee and using the space right below it for a laptop LCD.
      So this open area right below the marquee area would be a perfect place to put in a 15” laptop LCD. I did some research about scrolling marquees and found an awesome thread about Hyper Marquee and (EDS) Event Dispatch System. And thanks to Mamefan for his youtube channel for setting up Hyper Marquee and EDS which helped me TONS! (hxxps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbcUzyfMtPc)
      I had an old laptop that was dead but the screen still worked so I ripped it out and found the model number and looked on ebay for a LCD controller board. Bingo! clicked on buy now and it arrived in a couple of days!

      So with Hyperspin loaded with HyerMarquee and EDS, I was able to display the rom marquee and its flyer. Learning those two new programs did take some getting used to, but once you work on it for a while it’s pretty darn easy. If the marquee isn’t available it uses hyperspins wheel image and if a flyer isn’t available it just displays a default picture (ready player one). Going portrait mode on the 2nd screen really makes sense and awesome looking. I’m able to easily add both graphics since most of the flyers are basically portrait. Below is my two screen temporary layout held up with some duct tape.

      The one issue I did notice with this setup, if I power off the LCD controller board it doesn’t turn back on without physically pressing the power button. I thought that HDMI when the source is powered on it will turn on the monitor, but no matter what I did or how long I waited it would never turn on the 2nd screen. So, screw it! I fixed this issue by shorting out the power on/off button on the smaller pcb board that plugs into the LCD controller board. When the PC turns off or by the power strip and then turned back on, the LCD board comes to life and I have video. The 2nd screen even goes into powersaving mode and it will turn off when I turn off the PC.
      Onto the 2nd LCD frame. I took measurements and even cut a groove for the screen to set in. My wood working skills are not the best at all and I normally have to measure 5 times and then cut/screw-up/buy new piece, measure two more times and then maybe I’ll hit my mark. Luckily enough the piece I bought was big enough for that 2nd try I needed! You can see on the upper right of the picture the original frame I ripped out. I thought it turned out pretty nice after semi-gloss black paint job and screwed in place.

      Another couple picture showing the mounting of the LCD controller board and 2nd monitor frame.

      So, what to do about the actual marquee area, I thought? I’m a huge Pac Man fan and was thinking an actual Pac Man marquee but I decided to just design one up myself and come up with a name of my cabinet, Pac Cade how original…. right? Some picture googling and paint.net skills I made this up and had it printed at Staples on what they called vinyl for only 6 bucks! What a deal.. slapped it on the plastic and there ya go! I just need to figure out what to do with the side-art. I do have light poking through the edges which I’m not a fan about, so I need to figure out what to do there.

      I think I’m making good progress on it. But what I’m dreading the most, you might ask? Well it’s drilling the control panel holes through the wood/plexi/vinyl.. HOW will I pull this off! I kept prolonging that day when I had to start drilling. It made me nervous just thinking about it. But that will be a later day, time for me to fix this horrible CRT area.

      I found a 30” TV at my local computer shop for real cheap and all I would need to do is route/sand the sides on the cabinet down about ¼”. But when I got there my main question was, when I turn on/off my PC what will the TV do and we never got a straight answer from the techs. Looked online and the specs said auto on with HDMI power, but I just didn’t get the warm and fuzzies. So I ended up going with a Dell 28” monitor. It fit without any issues at all, I was very pleased with the results.
      With some scrap wood I made bracers on the back and bottoms of the LCD screen to keep it in place. Boy It sure did take me a long time to measure and make sure each side of the screen was at the same height.
      Once that was all in place. I had another anxiety attack since I had to now measure and cut another frame for the monitor. This time it only took me one attempt and look at how nice that fits. There is hope for me after all! Spray painted it black and onto the next grueling task.. the dreaded control panel.

      Sorry, going to go in more detail on this as this section was slightly stressful. At this point I didn’t really research into what I should use. At my house (we just moved) the previous owner used plexiglass for an additional layer on our windows. I thought, score I can spare a couple for my cabinet and save some space. I looked up what to use to cut plexiglass and found that using a Stepping Bit is a good way to go, so off to the local hardware store!
      I needed to figure out a way to mark my buttons and joysticks on the vinyl and board. I used a drafting compass draw a 30mm and 24mm circle on cardboard and with a hole poked through the middle, booya I had my center. I then laid the cardboard circle on the vinyl and marked the center with a marker. Then used point of the compass to poke a hole through the vinyl. This part wasn’t so bad since I had 3 other vinyl sheets on the ready. I then used a utility knife to cut the lines into it. Geez, this part was a little unnerving. 

      Once all the holes were done in the vinyl I laid that on top of the control board and just marked my pilot holes. I also bought a dowel rod and plug the original 4 holes of the control panel. Used my Forstners bit and a hand drill. There are two sizes holes here – 30MM and 24MM. Mainly because the Easyget buttons came with 8 30mm and 4 24mm size buttons.

      It’s heartbreak and stress time. It didn’t take long to figure out plexiglass will not work, at least what I had in my basement. It might be too brittle or sun damaged etc.. The sound this stepping bit had on the plexiglass was horrific! As you can see from the right pic that cracks & chips were very visible. WHAT TO DO!!

      My local hardware store had lexan polycarbonate and WOW what a HUGE difference that made. The sheet was expensive but well worth it. The stepping bit drilled into this stuff like a hot knife in butter. But this part was very stressful and it took a while because I didn’t want to screw up. After many practice runs with a circle cutter bit on scrap lexan, I made my final 3” hole.

      Here is the end result of my control panel finally all drilled and assembled. As well as adding what I have for joysticks/buttons and trackball. Looking pretty good so far. Just need to order the other 4-way joystick/buttons and the spinner.

      I ordered the other set of buttons and joystick and then decided to spin up Paint.Net for one ugly looking wiring schematics. This did really help figure out where everything is going. The two purple buttons on the right and left of the panel are the pinball buttons that I’ll drill on the side of the control panel box. After doing some troubleshooting, I had to route my pinball buttons on my first button controller board. Splitting them up between two controller boards seemed to cause some confusion even with JoytoKey installed.

      Here are a couple of screenshots of the pinball holes I drilled out as well as I hooked up the LED switch to my coin slot buttons. SO cool! Turns out Christmas LED bulbs work great for replacement bulbs for the coin buttons.

      After some time I did finally pulled the trigger on getting the rest of the buttons and my 4-way joystick. I ended up with white player/coin buttons and the rest blue and I think it came out pretty nice. Not sure why in this picture my red buttons look more yellowish. Still holding off on the spinner, they are not cheap. After I got my 4-way joystick I read its small paper doc and it showed me how to make it an 8-way and shockingly enough I looked at my other two 8-way joysticks and they are also convertible.. Go figure.. here I was dying to play Pac Man during this build and I could have if I would have just converted a joystick!

      And the 98% final results. With 4 added quarters from 1980 - 1984 on the glass...


      Some high level software and info-
      Win10 Hyperspin HyperSpin Start up script RocketLauncher HyperMarquee EDS registered Joytokey Mame (w/ high score save) crap ton of system emulators I figured out a neat way to make a Main menu item for a second MAME selection for multiplayer that I created a database for. PinballFX 2 and 3 (still trying to get 3 to work) JukeBox Made most of my own themes I know I'm forgetting something... =) I would be more than happy to answer any questions or share my config settings. If you want to see a video, I can post one. 
    • By toreador607
      I created this bezel to experience real arcade cabinet gameplay like i did my childhood and wanted to share it. Actually I don't have enough fun playing arcade games in LCD monitor with a plain screen. That's why I decided to create a bezel for my hyper spin and added it some effects like (light reflection, some old screen effects and a reflection of arcade room for make you feel like playing your game in arcade room. I use 1440x900 pixels on my PC so i edited it for this resolution only. You can just resize your bezel.PNG to fit your Full Screen Resolution and re-edit Bezel.ini file to get the best resolution for you.

      To install just extract rar file to your hyper spin directory like this: HyperSpin\RocketLauncher\Media\Bezels
      DOWNLOAD: MAME.rar
      2ND VERSION: MAME2.rar
    • By malarrya
      What's New for Version 1.1.0:
      ADDED 7 New Systems (80 TOTAL) + HS/RL/Default profiles. New systems include Sega Model 1, Sega System 16, Sega System 24, , Sega X Board, Sega Y Board, Pop-Cap, and Microsoft MS-DOS. Changed the ESC key functionality to buttons 7 + 8 (COIN+START). You must now press both to exit the game. Placed the ESC key location on Button 25 (a dummy location good for using combo buttons). Changed Button 5 to TAB. Changed Button 6 to P (PAUSE). Changed Button 9 to C. Changed Button 10 to V. Changed Button 11 to Z. Changed Button 12 to X. I'll see how this configuration works for me for the time being. If it's a pain or something is not quite right, I'll continue tweaking it until I find what's best.
      ***************** BACK UP YOUR OLD PROFILES IN CASE YOU DON'T LIKE THE CHANGES *****************
      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      I created about 75 profiles for various systems, added them to a RAR archive, and attached to this post. All you have to do is unrar and place the folders within the archive into your ..\RocketLauncher\Profiles\JoyToKey directory. For example, mine is --  C:\Hyperspin\RocketLauncher\Profiles\JoyToKey.
      You may need to edit the profiles so they are more to your liking or work correctly with your setup. I use the default MAME setup for everything. If you want to change one or all of them, all you have to do is edit only one CFG file, copy the CFG file to every other folder, and rename the CFG file and FOLDER to the name of the emulator you're using for the system.

      For example -- I use Stella for the Atari 2600. My path is then C:\Hyperspin\RocketLauncher\Profiles\JoyToKey\Atari 2600\Stella\Stella.cfg
      Maybe you don't use Stella for the Atari 2600 but use RetroArch. Here's how to change it:
      You would simply rename C:\Hyperspin\RocketLauncher\Profiles\JoyToKey\Atari 2600\Stella\Stella.cfg to C:\Hyperspin\RocketLauncher\Profiles\JoyToKey\Atari 2600\RetroArch\RetroArch.cfg. It's the same path\folder\file but the innermost folder and cfg file have simply been renamed to match the emulator being used.
      It's tedious to copy, paste, and rename but it doesn't take too long. I've copied these files to another machine that uses Launch Box, set up JoyToKey in Rocket Launcher via the tutorial link below, and found it working beautifully. MAME is a bit of a jerk, however. Sometimes it works straight away and sometimes you still have to map the game within the MAME TAB menu. 
      I ONLY HAVE CONTROLLER 1 MAPPED IN THESE FILES!
      NOTE: There are NO games or programs within this archive. There are, however, 2 other files -- a BAT file for killing the JoyToKey process and a shortcut that gives that BAT file ADMIN privileges. Place the BAT and LNK files in your root Hyperspin directory and use the JoyToKey.exe as the startup program and JoyToKeyKill.lnk as a shutdown program in the HyperHQ UI. Using the LNK shortcut file allows for Administrator privileges with the CMD prompt window. You may need to create your own shortcut but I've included it for completeness. See the attached images.
      All files were created manually by me so there's no copyright issue.
      **** Here is a very good tutorial on how to set up JoyToKey with both Hyperspin and Rocket Launcher - READ IT CAREFULLY!:
      http://bit.ly/2oA2CJ4

      ----------------------------------- ONLY FOR THOSE USING A MOGA PRO CONTROLLER-----------------------------------
      In case you have a Moga Controller, download and install the Moga Serial program:
      https://github.com/Zel-os/MogaSerial
      NOTE: I can only get it to work in Mode A on the PRO Controller but it works great!
      Your computer will also need BlueTooth enabled and successfully linked to the MOGA.
      Here is where you can get the latest vJoy USB Controller Driver (you'll need this for the MOGA Controller):
      http://vjoystick.sourceforge.net/site/
    • By xdjbx87
      I'm not sure if this is the correct place for this but I've been spending a lot of time on these forums and thought I'd ask. Does anyone have any experience on building a cabinet for Guitar Hero? I have looked around but I dont see any custom ones anywhere/
×
×
  • Create New...