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Found 34 results

  1. Hello. Sorry if this might soon like a noob's question. I'm currently working on a cabinet with a friend. So far we haven't decided on anything specific, and are still in the planning stages. I'd like to add a screen at the top of the cabinet, which could display a few things, like the name of the system used, or the game, or both, or even an artwork of it. The main problem is, I have no idea of what I should look for, both for hardware or software. - Are there any small screens that I could buy somewhere to act as a second monitor and put on top of the cab? - Or should I go for a LED display, if so which would be best/offer the most configuration options? - As for the software, how does it work? What should I install/buy ? Do any Hyperspinners here have a working solution already, if so what do you use? I have a lot of questions on the matter, thanks in advance for your answers.
  2. I have been talking about building a cabinet for years and finally have started. I will be building a 4 player control panel style that hooks up to any TV with an HDMI cable. One cool thing about my cabinet is that I designed my own controller. I want to be able to light all my buttons and joysticks with an RGB LED and configure my buttons and joysticks as keyboard inputs, mouse inputs or joystick inputs but there was no controller that could do everything an it would have cost over $250 to get what I wanted and required 5+ circuit boards. I am an Electronics Engineer so I said screw it and I designed my own! So the Howler Controller was born: Here are what the specs WILL be for my controller (Hardware 100% operational, working on firmware now): 4 Joysticks (each with RGB LED drive) - Each joystick consists of 4 inputs and 3 LED drive outputs (for RGB lit joysticks). Inputs can be configured as buttons if joystick operation is not needed. - Each joystick can be configured as a USB keyboard, USB Digital Joystick, USB Analog Joystick, USB mouse (for spinners and trackballs) 26 buttons (each with RGB LED drive) - Each button consists of 1 input and 3 LED drive outputs (for RGB lit buttons) - Each button can be configured as a USB Keyboard keypress, USB Joystick button press, or USB Mouse Button press Other features: - Each LED has 255 levels of brightness for 16 MILLION color combinations! - Working on config program which allows unlimited configuration combinations of USB Keyboard, USB Mouse and USB Joysticks (multiple). - Requires only 1 USB connection per circuit board. - USB controller is powered from USB and LEDs are powered with external supply (+3.3V to +12V, whatever user chooses) - Total number of LEDs that can be individually controller (255 levels) is 92! 3x as much as other controllers! - Working on command line program to set LEDs so that it may be integrated with Hyperspin to set button/joystick colors for each individual game. (NES games will light up 2x RED buttons, TMNT arcade will light up each controller as the original arcade did (purple, blue, orange, red!). I will be posting more pics of my cabinet as it gets built. If anyone is interested in my controller, let me know!
  3. First off I need to throw out some thanks to a few people before I get into it. Winsor Plywood for their free rough-cuts and great prices. (Perfect cuts I must add) MemoryExpress for their computer parts that work! PladiumStore for a one stop shop for all my parts (Canadian) Home Depot for everything else! My dad for his help! My best friend Dave for his guidance when I was frustrated. Last but not least, hyperspin forums for all the information and helpful users. Well it's been a long 3 weeks or so! I started this build Canada Day weekend. I based my build off of the cabinet plans ridicrick included in his origonal post (HERE) I had to make some changes as I went along as there were some angles and measurements that were unclear. The hardest part was cutting the sides and having them not overlap each other! Man was it tight. But once I had the carboard template ready I was set! I have to tell you, melamine is not the easiest material to work with. It's great for some things, and touchy for others. All I have to say is make sure you have a good quality dewalt ratcheting skrewdriver! They are the best! (stole my brothers) His wood routing with the template bit idea was essential for doubling the sides. The only thing I was missing was the T-Moulding cutter which I bought at GroovyGamerGear. It would have costed me more money to buy it locally than it did online with shipping from the USA. Ok so I have lots of pictures and attachments for reference and I will do my best to explain them. I also have a couple video's that I took when I got the PC working. I'm not "DONE" as I still have to get vinyl for all the white surfaces, the control panel is still kind of a mess and I need to get seating. All in good time though! Day 1 and 2 Summary: Day 3 Summary: Weekend 2: T-Molding Time!
  4. Hi Hyperspin Community, I will start here my Custom Build of a Tron Legacy Theme Cabinet. 1st i am thought is better to plan and build it in cad/3d programs, to see eventually mistakes. So i show at the moment only some scratches And from Time to Time i will post here the progress of the work. I am not so fast because i need to spare some money for some of the stuff. Now here some Pics http://www.3d-artworks.de/view?uID=12&id=8d766f4b88462cf07a2339a22e26fe6a Sry for bad texture , i am not so good in it. Greetings uNkeLo
  5. salve a tutti. sto acquistando l'hardware per il mio cab e prima di spendere un po' di soldi vorrei chiedere qualche consiglio. il mio cab dovrà utilizzare mame, supermodel ma soprattutto il famigerato demul che richiede un bel po' di hardware. come configurazione avrei in mente questa qua che nedite? Scheda Madre MSI 970A-G46 Socket AM3+ DDR3 SATA3 USB3 ATX 83,00 CPU AMD FX-6300 6-Core Vishera 3.5GHz Socket AM3+ 14MB 95W Boxed 107,00 Corsair Memoria Pc Vengeance Performance 4 Gb Ddr3-1600 - Pc3-12800 - Cl9 (Cmz4Gx3M1A160​0C9) 37,00 Sapphire HD7750 Scheda video (PCI-e, 1GB GDDR5, HDMI, DVI-I, DisplayPort attivo) 65,00 Samsung HD502HJ Spinpoint F3 Hard Disk Interno 3.5" 500GB - 7200rpm - Cache 16MB 56,00 Alimentatore PC Thermaltake Berlin 630W 80+ ATX 56,00 Samsung SH-222BB Masterizzatore DVD-RW, versione Bulk 26,00 totale 430 euri.... che ne dite??? posso risparmiare qualcosa? è meglio se spendo qualcosa in più? fatemi sapere!!!
  6. Hello fellow 'Spinners' first off I want to thank everyone on this site for all of their hardwork, dedication and all-out awesomeness at creating, maintaining, and resurrecting this 'retro' scene. I first discovered Hyperspin about 8 months ago when I began work on my first MAME cabinet and have never looked back! Though I haven't formally introduced myself nor posted on these forums before I have read alot of the posts and gotten so much help from everyone here that I feel like I know some of you already. Today I come to you with a question (or several maybe). I recently bought an old 'Grand Champion' standup driving cabinet (Taito, 1981) everything works great and all, but I just wonder what the process would be to use the Steering Wheel, Accelerator pedal, and Low/high shifter with mame? Can you interface these through a computer? Or am I gonna be faced with scrapping them in place of a USB equivalent? They obviously work with the arcade board that is in there, but does anyone on here have any experience with converting single game driving cabinets into Mame cabinets that would play several driving games using the existing hardware? I am honestly torn between fixing this one up and leaving it original (as it is more than 30 years old) or still cleaning it up, but converting it to Mame to be my 'racing game' cabinet. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  7. Hi guys, Its been a few years since i've built a cabinet. This time though i decided to build a small bartop cabinet for my nephew's 2nd birthday present as he just loves to play on my cabinet when he comes around. I wanted to do this on a budget so most of it was built on parts i had lying around. Decided to build this one though with a raspberry pi so no hyperspin on this cabinet. All in all the project ran over a week including 3d modeling, cutting wood, painting, wiring, programming. Parts List 15" Samsung LCD (had lying around) Raspberry Pi model b (had lying around) 32gb SD card (had lying around) Old PC speakers (had lying around) Buttons and joystick (had lying around) Ultimarc i-pac (had lying around) 10mm MDF ($16 obtained from bunnings) 8mm Perspex ($30 obtained from bunnings) Red paint ($8 obtained from bunnings) Black paint ($8 obtained from bunnings) Clear paint ($8 obtained from bunnings) Primer ($20 obtained from bunnings) fluroscent lamp ($25 obtained from bunnings) 6 Port Power Board (had lying around) Misc gritt sandpaper (obtained from bunnings) Misc sized wood screws (had lying around) Design As i had to build a cabinet to meet the minimum size requirements of all the bits i had lying around i decided to draw up the bits in sketchup first and design the cabinet around those bits. Sketchup already had a pretty nice bartop cabinet in their online warehouse repository so i decided to use that as a template and scale to fit my components. Build I'm a programmer by trade and am terrible with tools but thought hey how hard can it be i shouldn't be able to screw it up. How wrong i was. First of all having the right tool for the job helps incredibly. Trying to cut straight cuts with a jigsaw is absolutely impossible. Reminder to self buy a circular saw. here are some photos of the frame as it was getting cut. I decided to put hinges on the rear panel and control panel so that i could maintain it. The raspberry pi, ipac and pc speaker amplifier will be mounted on the rear panel so when i open it up it would be easy to maintain. Painting Decided to go cherry red with black control panel for the paint job. Did lots of sanding to make sure that they surface was even (though my cuts were bad) and wet sanded every coat. Marquee Whipped something simple up in photoshop (could have done it in ms paint even) and printed out onto A3. stuck it on with tape on the back and sides of the perspex (advantage of having 8mm perspex). Wiring Screwed in the buttons and joystick (8 button's plus coin, start and exit) and soldered on the wiring. Had to use a terminal block to split the ground cable. 3.5 stereo from raspberry pi to the PC speaker amplifier usb from ipac to raspberry pi hdmi to vga converter from raspberry pi to pc monitor (had some issues with getting this to work) Software So this is the interesting part. I've used quite a few raspberry pi's but usually for XBMC, web servers, siri proxy, etc. Luckily some smart cookie made this easy to set up with all emulators with a setup script (retropie). There were a few things i needed to sort out myself though. Caching EDID information. Because the monitor powers on after a few seconds the raspberry pi misses the EDID information from the monitor and as such shows no image what so ever. Upon softwar reboot of the raspberry pi i could get an image. Ended up hard encoding the EDID information into the raspberry pi to resolve this issue. IPAC congifuration needs to be reloaded everytime. Some smart cookie developed some software for linux to program the ipac (http://zumbrovalley.net/readpost.php?artid=6). Just downloaded, compiled and added the command to my rc.local file to ensure it executes at bootup. Retropie like hyperspin uses XML for its gamelists. These gamelists can be auto generated with internal software however it utilises the existing filename. This is ok for the most part apart from mame. So had to output the gamelist from mame and do some quick bash scripting to generate a xml medialist. Retropie also hard encodes the path to the image file within the gamelist xml. So had to create a bash script that grabbed the filename of the game and matched it to the cover art. Luckily emumovies coverart uses the same naming convention as the game name. Wanted to add a splash screen with a custom image so had to write up a script to run at startup. Final Product Anyway here are some final pics of the finished results. The lessons i learnt are that I am terrible with a jigsaw and MDF splits easily. Boot time though is extremely quick. 20 seconds. Great thing about the raspberry pi is that it is extremely energy efficient as well. Hopefully my nephew will treasure this for many years to come.
  8. After all the help and information I've received from this forum I thought I should share my almost complete pinball cabinet and get some opinions from people. This build is a medium size cab with a de-cased 32" playfield and 19" backglass. Its currently setup with Hyperpin and Future Pinball. I still have the Siemens contactors to complete the build but aside from that its pretty much done. I'm already looking forward to building the next one, a full size cabinet.
  9. On the left, the original 1982 Mr. & Mrs. Pac-Man Pinball. To the right, the replica. Thank you to all cabinet builders for the inspiration, especially chriz99 and mameman! Playfield Cabinet The front and back corners are cut at 45 degrees, with miter splines for strength. I also used wood bracing on the inside corners under the leg brackets. The leg bracket holes were drilled at 25/64" which gave a little wiggle room to tighten fully. One problem I ran into: I cut the slots for the side rail plastic channels at 1/16" with a router and Harbor Freight slot cutter set, but after painting they weren't wide enough to hammer the rails down into, so I had to redo that. Slots for the TV were routed to 1/2" leaving only 1/4" thickness. I was worried about this in back with the weight of the backboxes so I made 2 bracing pieces to reinforce. The TV ended up being slim enough to install (fully cased) from the top, if I had realized that earlier I would not have routed the slots all the way back. Because there is a Samsung logo tab sticking out on the bottom of the TV, it sits slightly off-center to the right in the cabinet despite the routing, it is only about 1/8" off though. The remote works fine (needed for switching to 3D) as the sensor is on the bottom right of the TV so ends up near the buttons on the left side. 3D does work, check out the thread by toxie for more info. Because the Samsung UN46ES7100 is active shutter, you need two pairs of glasses turned sideways for it to work and not see black bars. This does make it hard to see the backglass and DMD, and the resolution is cut in half to achieve 3D. I don't turn on the 3D very often but it's nice to have, I did angle the TV downward anyway so it gives some illusion of depth though 2D. 3/4" Birch Plywood Kreg 1-1/4" Course Pocket Screws (every 6 inches, 2 inches from edges, with wood glue) 46" Samsung UN46ES7100 Widebody Lockdown bar Williams/Bally Lockdown Bar Lever Guide Assembly BLACK KNIGHT (Williams) Side rails pair Spiral nail .15" dia. x 3/4" Screw 6-32 x 5/8" hex 4X Pin Cushion Cabinet Protectors 4X Williams/Bally New Style Leg Bracket 4X Heavy Duty Leg Leveler With Nut 4X Leg Leveler Rubber Castors 4X Bally Gray Legs 2X Williams/Bally WPC/WPC95 Playfield Glass Side Rail Plastic Channel Williams/Bally WIDEBODY Playfield Glass Rear Plastic Channel Grill - speaker 7" x 7" Vent grill - metal 2-1/2" x 19" (cut to size) 3/16" Smoked Plexiglass 1-1/8" Double-Bitted Lock Lock Plate Piano Hinge Upper Backbox (A bit taller and wider to fit screen) Also routed to 1/2" to recess the decased screen as much as possible. Routing on all sides presented a problem, how to get the TV in there? I ended up leaving the right side unglued so it is removable, the hole in the bottom is large enough to get a screwdriver in there and tighten with pocket screws. The top trim piece is not glued in as it would cover the screw holes holding things together. 3/4" Birch Plywood 1/4" MDF (Backglass retainers) Kreg 1-1/4" Course Pocket Screws (every 6 inches, 2 inches from edges, with wood glue) (all plastic/metal trim was cut to size with a Dremel Fiberglass Cut-Off Wheel) 30" NEC LCD3000 (originally Dell W3000 but it would not turn on reliably, a common issue I have read online) Trim backglass 3/16" side plastic set-3 Bally Stainless Lift Trim 3/16" Smoked Plexiglass Lower Backbox (A bit taller and wider to fit screen) For now, I am using the HannsG instead of a real DMD. (I wanted to use custom color settings and not have the intense reflection on the playfield glass) It is routed about 1/2" and wedged in there tightly. I had to make the box taller, which I justified by having the combined height of the backboxes be the same as a Williams widebody. Theare are 2 pieces of plexiglass with a paper bezel inbetween. 3/4" Birch Plywood 1/2" MDF (Backglass retainers) Kreg 1-1/4" Course Pocket Screws (every 6 inches, 2 inches from edges, with wood glue) (all plastic/metal trim was cut to size with a Dremel Fiberglass Cut-Off Wheel) 15.6" HannsG HK162 Trim backglass 3/16" side plastic set-3 Bally Stainless Lift Trim 1/8" Smoked Plexiglass, 1/16" Smoked Plexiglass Stencils Ideally a spray gun is the way to go with stencils, but I like the control of using a foam roller, although it requires a lot of touch up. 2 coats of latex Kilz2 primer, and then latex Glidden Satin Interior, 3 coats blue (Rhapsody), 5 coats yellow (Sunny Side Up), 5 coats pink (Passion Flower) The black was done with 2 coats Zinnser BIN primer (spray can) and 2-3 coats Rustoleum Satin Black (spray can). One thing I re-learned about spray paint, if you're going to do more than one coat, don't space them out too long, I did a second coat of black the next day and it puckered, had to redo it. Another coat should be applied within an hour. Bally Coin door/Cash box I took the coin door completely apart and used a wet sanding sponge (up and down for uniform grain) to buff out scratches, it worked great, used the same on the trim. For the coin insert panel/coin mechs and chutes I used steel wool. I wired the lights in series to the PC, using an extra molex to SATA adaptor to splice the wires. #161 bulbs are the correct voltage. I put the shooter rod/knob in the drill and spun it in steel wool, shined it all up, did the same for the coin return button. You can use steel wool on the cash box, but it takes off the zinc coating, leaving it clean and shiny but different than the original. Bally Coin Door & Trim Bally Cash Box Bally Sticker 3X Bally price plates Carriage bolt set 7/8" Coin Door Lock - Single Bitted #161 Eiki Bulbs Sound The integrated sound on this motherboard is from Realtek, nothing special but you can route seperate audio streams to front and back outputs, which is now a feature in visual Pinball. (Doesn't work in Future Pinball, sound only comes from the primary backbox speakers) I have the Logitech Z506 5.1 speakers on the back outputs, and the Logitech S220 2.1 speakers on the front headphone jack. So backbox rom sound is separated from cabinet mechanical sounds. I am missing authentic force feedback, but I can control the volume of the whole cabinet. I copied the small bottom vent holes in the original cabinet, and the speakers are placed nearby. In the lower backbox, the speakers are facing toward the bottom hole that overhangs the playfield. I like that the speakers aren't right in my face, and without a speaker panel all 3 screens are blank when turned off. Logitech Z506 Logitech S220 PC The playfield cabinet is not as tall as a Williams widebody, so I could not fit a shelf for the PC above where the legs attach. Because of this I just kept the PC in its case, which could technically be pulled out the back if needed, a tight sqeeze though. Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1 Intel DP55KG Motherboard Intel Core i7-860 2.80GHz Kingston 4GB DDR3 1333 Samsung SSD 830 Series 128GB Antec Sonata Designer 500 Case 2X Galaxy GeForce GTS 250 1GB 2X Nexus 92mm Real Silent Case Fan 750W Antec Earthwatts Power Supply Smart Strip LCG3 Surge Protector Logitech mk260 wireless Keyboard & Mouse (these work OK but sometimes lag) Buttons Coin return button=cabinet on The PC momentary switch is in the first coin mech, I just cut off the square top of the switch so it works. Not all coin mechs fit this method, I had to use a metal one from a Ms. Pac-Man. The PC is plugged into the Control Outlet on the Smart Strip and automatically switches everything else on. Coin door start button=Start (also I-PAC2 shift button) L Flipper Front (shifted=L Nudge) R Flipper Front (shifted=R Nudge) L Flipper Back=secondary L flipper/magna save/buy-in (shifted=Insert Coin) R Flipper Back=secondary R flipper/magna save (shifted=Exit) I didn't put in any analog nudging, maybe if I improve at pinball I will, because the above shift settings are not very functional. Shooter (shifted=Fwd Nudge, Genre in Hyperpin) The shooter hits a microswitch wired backwards as NC (Normally Closed) I used Speedbor bits for the button holes, 5/8 & 1-1/8. I-PAC2 4X NOS 1-1/8 short Leaf Switch Buttons 4X PAL nut 5/8" 4X VPCLeaf Switch (works well with I-PAC2 low current) Switch - miniature drop bar target Bally Shooter Ventilation I replicated the original backbox vents, which I wouldn't recommend as most projects have large strong fans. I routed out a long air intake under the cab for the PC, and there's also the speaker hole, which was done with a router using a makeshift jig. I ran a 92mm case fan up into the bottom hole of the lower backbox, and another for the upper backbox, so it has upward airflow. I didn't notice excessive heat in the lower cabinet, the upper backbox (NEC LCD3000) gets hotter though. I covered the routed area in the upper backbox with thermal aluminum tape. I was still a bit concerned about airflow so in the end left the back slightly unhinged and have a small desk fan route air out the back.
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