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Found 34 results

  1. natari

    My Cabinet Project

    Hi Hyperspin community, I've been a Hyperspin member for a while now and this will be my first post. I spent the past couple of days writing my project down from start to almost finished.. I have yet to write down the section about software/configurations/tips/tweaks, hoping I can provide that in an update shortly. Just wanted to say a special thanks to my friends that helped me with this project as well as the others in this awesome community that didn't know it, but your questions & answers helped me get through it all.. Sorry it's pretty lengthy.. Machine name : Pac-Cade Started on the build 11/2017 Finished (well its about 98% done) Here is my couple of month’s life story of my first MAME cabinet build. Please, feel free to read for your enjoyment or skip through and look at the pretty pictures. I’m just hoping that what I went through helps others out with their build. I’ve been wanting to build a Mame Cabinet for years and just never pulled the trigger. A friend of mine surprised me with blueprints of a cabinet, I just needed to buy the wood, find the spare time and get off my lazy arse and get it started. Then another friend found a Target Toss Pro Bags cabinet for $50 on ebay. FIFTY Bucks how in the heck could I pass this deal up. As you can see from the photos below, it’s basically a Golden Tee cabinet. After I pulled the trigger, drove up with a friend, put it on his flat bed I got the beast cabinet into my garage, I just stared in awww of all the cool things I want to do with this thing. The cabinet came with the bezel, front glass, 4 buttons, marquee clear plastic, coin slots (BONUS) and a lot of dust. It was pretty much gutted but exactly what I was looking for. I wanted an extra wide cabinet so I can have some room for a 2 player setup. Right below the marquee is a wooden board with a nice size open hole that had a metal plate where the speakers go and small rectangle tinted glass which you can see it still in the above photos. With 12 screws around the edge of the control panel, I took off the lexan (similar) top layer and thankfully it was not glued down so I can use the control board. It was nice to see the metal plate for the track ball, but it just added more questions on how I’m really going to lay all this out. Still not really sure how I’m going to layout the control panel at this time, but I do know I want two player (I considered 4 player), trackball, spinner and pinball buttons. So measuring the opening where all the buttons and joystick will go, I found my area to work with. This part took the longest out of all the other projects and trying to figure out the layout was killing me slowly. I thought about laying it all out myself with button templates and looking up some cool graphics. I just couldn’t find anything I really liked and just couldn’t visualize it. Then I finally found a layout which was actually based off the Golden Tee control panel and oh my, I was sold. I can’t take credit for this so thanks goes to dmatanski at Deviant Art (hxxps://dmatanski.deviantart.com/art/MAME-large-control-panel-48650519). I found a couple of reasons why this layout is awesome. It’s based off my arcade control panel for one so I don’t have to retro-fit it, but something I never really realized…. 8 way joysticks suck for Pac Man!! So this layout has a third 4-way joystick at the top “classic setup”. Yes, this layout has lots of buttons!!!!! After I printed the layout, I purchased some Forstner bits and made a practice control panel out of MDF so I can have a feel for how it’s laid out, practice drilling and get to use the buttons/joysticks I bought. I had my control panel upstairs hooked to what I was going to use; a Pi3 with retropi installed, using an external 500gig HD, attract mode, themes, video previews installed. Retropi is very slick, easy to setup and pretty darn cool and I think it work well in a cabinet. Stuff I bought at this time- Trackball – 90 bucks off Amazon 2 player buttons and 8-way joystick.. Here is where I think some will say I went cheap, and yes I slightly agree. But I do like them and maybe at a later date I’ll upgrade. Called Easyget LED illuminated 2 player, $67 off Amazon. 3.5 inch circle speaker covers Light bar from Home Depot for the marquee I happened to have an old CRT and my old speakers with subwoofer, so I temporary put them in place. I also removed the upper black wooded border so I can make room for a 2nd monitor idea frame out of MDF. And yeah the previous wood was glued to the marquee bottom board and it broke off.. eh, no biggie. While playing on the Pi3, I just found that some mame roms were not work and customizing it was tedious. So, I bailed on the Pi3 and bought a 2.8ghz quad core mobo, 8 gigs ram from a friend and I had some extra parts laying around - 256gig SSD, sata 500gig, nvidia video card. So, now I’m using Hyperspin/rocketlauncher which I’ll go in more setup detail later in this brain dump of mine. I had a lot of friends to bounce ideas off and one of them gave me a 28” TV, which I considered to use for that retro look, so I bought a VGA to HDMI adapter from Amazon. I had some trouble with my PC recognizing it adapter and I could never get the TV to display. So, I bailed on it and started pricing out LCDs. I can still use this TV for my old consoles which I collect, so it’s a win win for me. I had a quote for a sign shop to have them print my control panel on polycarbonate but it was too expensive for me. I reached out to my friends again and found one that knew a guy that had a full size plotter and once I gave him the dimensions of the control panel he printed me out 4 copies on sticky back vinyl, just in case I screwed up. So, onto the secondary monitor thoughts and plans. My first thought was to buy a LCD screen as my marquee and have it just scroll through the game marquees when one is selected, but that area is fairly skinny and the LCDs are VERY expensive. I thought about designing my own marquee and using the space right below it for a laptop LCD. So this open area right below the marquee area would be a perfect place to put in a 15” laptop LCD. I did some research about scrolling marquees and found an awesome thread about Hyper Marquee and (EDS) Event Dispatch System. And thanks to Mamefan for his youtube channel for setting up Hyper Marquee and EDS which helped me TONS! (hxxps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbcUzyfMtPc) I had an old laptop that was dead but the screen still worked so I ripped it out and found the model number and looked on ebay for a LCD controller board. Bingo! clicked on buy now and it arrived in a couple of days! So with Hyperspin loaded with HyerMarquee and EDS, I was able to display the rom marquee and its flyer. Learning those two new programs did take some getting used to, but once you work on it for a while it’s pretty darn easy. If the marquee isn’t available it uses hyperspins wheel image and if a flyer isn’t available it just displays a default picture (ready player one). Going portrait mode on the 2nd screen really makes sense and awesome looking. I’m able to easily add both graphics since most of the flyers are basically portrait. Below is my two screen temporary layout held up with some duct tape. The one issue I did notice with this setup, if I power off the LCD controller board it doesn’t turn back on without physically pressing the power button. I thought that HDMI when the source is powered on it will turn on the monitor, but no matter what I did or how long I waited it would never turn on the 2nd screen. So, screw it! I fixed this issue by shorting out the power on/off button on the smaller pcb board that plugs into the LCD controller board. When the PC turns off or by the power strip and then turned back on, the LCD board comes to life and I have video. The 2nd screen even goes into powersaving mode and it will turn off when I turn off the PC. Onto the 2nd LCD frame. I took measurements and even cut a groove for the screen to set in. My wood working skills are not the best at all and I normally have to measure 5 times and then cut/screw-up/buy new piece, measure two more times and then maybe I’ll hit my mark. Luckily enough the piece I bought was big enough for that 2nd try I needed! You can see on the upper right of the picture the original frame I ripped out. I thought it turned out pretty nice after semi-gloss black paint job and screwed in place. Another couple picture showing the mounting of the LCD controller board and 2nd monitor frame. So, what to do about the actual marquee area, I thought? I’m a huge Pac Man fan and was thinking an actual Pac Man marquee but I decided to just design one up myself and come up with a name of my cabinet, Pac Cade how original…. right? Some picture googling and paint.net skills I made this up and had it printed at Staples on what they called vinyl for only 6 bucks! What a deal.. slapped it on the plastic and there ya go! I just need to figure out what to do with the side-art. I do have light poking through the edges which I’m not a fan about, so I need to figure out what to do there. I think I’m making good progress on it. But what I’m dreading the most, you might ask? Well it’s drilling the control panel holes through the wood/plexi/vinyl.. HOW will I pull this off! I kept prolonging that day when I had to start drilling. It made me nervous just thinking about it. But that will be a later day, time for me to fix this horrible CRT area. I found a 30” TV at my local computer shop for real cheap and all I would need to do is route/sand the sides on the cabinet down about ¼”. But when I got there my main question was, when I turn on/off my PC what will the TV do and we never got a straight answer from the techs. Looked online and the specs said auto on with HDMI power, but I just didn’t get the warm and fuzzies. So I ended up going with a Dell 28” monitor. It fit without any issues at all, I was very pleased with the results. With some scrap wood I made bracers on the back and bottoms of the LCD screen to keep it in place. Boy It sure did take me a long time to measure and make sure each side of the screen was at the same height. Once that was all in place. I had another anxiety attack since I had to now measure and cut another frame for the monitor. This time it only took me one attempt and look at how nice that fits. There is hope for me after all! Spray painted it black and onto the next grueling task.. the dreaded control panel. Sorry, going to go in more detail on this as this section was slightly stressful. At this point I didn’t really research into what I should use. At my house (we just moved) the previous owner used plexiglass for an additional layer on our windows. I thought, score I can spare a couple for my cabinet and save some space. I looked up what to use to cut plexiglass and found that using a Stepping Bit is a good way to go, so off to the local hardware store! I needed to figure out a way to mark my buttons and joysticks on the vinyl and board. I used a drafting compass draw a 30mm and 24mm circle on cardboard and with a hole poked through the middle, booya I had my center. I then laid the cardboard circle on the vinyl and marked the center with a marker. Then used point of the compass to poke a hole through the vinyl. This part wasn’t so bad since I had 3 other vinyl sheets on the ready. I then used a utility knife to cut the lines into it. Geez, this part was a little unnerving. Once all the holes were done in the vinyl I laid that on top of the control board and just marked my pilot holes. I also bought a dowel rod and plug the original 4 holes of the control panel. Used my Forstners bit and a hand drill. There are two sizes holes here – 30MM and 24MM. Mainly because the Easyget buttons came with 8 30mm and 4 24mm size buttons. It’s heartbreak and stress time. It didn’t take long to figure out plexiglass will not work, at least what I had in my basement. It might be too brittle or sun damaged etc.. The sound this stepping bit had on the plexiglass was horrific! As you can see from the right pic that cracks & chips were very visible. WHAT TO DO!! My local hardware store had lexan polycarbonate and WOW what a HUGE difference that made. The sheet was expensive but well worth it. The stepping bit drilled into this stuff like a hot knife in butter. But this part was very stressful and it took a while because I didn’t want to screw up. After many practice runs with a circle cutter bit on scrap lexan, I made my final 3” hole. Here is the end result of my control panel finally all drilled and assembled. As well as adding what I have for joysticks/buttons and trackball. Looking pretty good so far. Just need to order the other 4-way joystick/buttons and the spinner. I ordered the other set of buttons and joystick and then decided to spin up Paint.Net for one ugly looking wiring schematics. This did really help figure out where everything is going. The two purple buttons on the right and left of the panel are the pinball buttons that I’ll drill on the side of the control panel box. After doing some troubleshooting, I had to route my pinball buttons on my first button controller board. Splitting them up between two controller boards seemed to cause some confusion even with JoytoKey installed. Here are a couple of screenshots of the pinball holes I drilled out as well as I hooked up the LED switch to my coin slot buttons. SO cool! Turns out Christmas LED bulbs work great for replacement bulbs for the coin buttons. After some time I did finally pulled the trigger on getting the rest of the buttons and my 4-way joystick. I ended up with white player/coin buttons and the rest blue and I think it came out pretty nice. Not sure why in this picture my red buttons look more yellowish. Still holding off on the spinner, they are not cheap. After I got my 4-way joystick I read its small paper doc and it showed me how to make it an 8-way and shockingly enough I looked at my other two 8-way joysticks and they are also convertible.. Go figure.. here I was dying to play Pac Man during this build and I could have if I would have just converted a joystick! And the 98% final results. With 4 added quarters from 1980 - 1984 on the glass... Some high level software and info- Win10 Hyperspin HyperSpin Start up script RocketLauncher HyperMarquee EDS registered Joytokey Mame (w/ high score save) crap ton of system emulators I figured out a neat way to make a Main menu item for a second MAME selection for multiplayer that I created a database for. PinballFX 2 and 3 (still trying to get 3 to work) JukeBox Made most of my own themes I know I'm forgetting something... =) I would be more than happy to answer any questions or share my config settings. If you want to see a video, I can post one.
  2. I created this bezel to experience real arcade cabinet gameplay like i did my childhood and wanted to share it. Actually I don't have enough fun playing arcade games in LCD monitor with a plain screen. That's why I decided to create a bezel for my hyper spin and added it some effects like (light reflection, some old screen effects and a reflection of arcade room for make you feel like playing your game in arcade room. I use 1440x900 pixels on my PC so i edited it for this resolution only. You can just resize your bezel.PNG to fit your Full Screen Resolution and re-edit Bezel.ini file to get the best resolution for you. To install just extract rar file to your hyper spin directory like this: HyperSpin\RocketLauncher\Media\Bezels DOWNLOAD: MAME.rar 2ND VERSION: MAME2.rar
  3. xdjbx87

    Guitar Hero Cabinet

    I'm not sure if this is the correct place for this but I've been spending a lot of time on these forums and thought I'd ask. Does anyone have any experience on building a cabinet for Guitar Hero? I have looked around but I dont see any custom ones anywhere/
  4. SPEEDrive Project, based on a Jamma coin-op with inside a pc. FEATURES: - Original 25" CRT Monitor (emudriver) - 360° Wheel - Shifter UP/DOWN with NOS - Rumble - CPO Light Button - 2xLed stripes on the back (output controlled) - Pedal with micro and pot - 2.1 audio system + 100w Subwoofer - Custom Hyperspin Main Theme, Video Preview and NoTheme video - Rocketlauncher core
  5. Hello spinners & pinners, My name is Josh White and I've been making some custom Pinball cab designs for members. I started with Dazz's Twilight Tribute HyperPin 2125 at the Texas Pinball Convention in March this year. Since then I've done a few more designs and wanted to offer my services. I'm a broadcast senior graphic designer with 18 years’ experience in design for tv, print & web. I've got my BFA in Art at the University of Rhode Island and started working for NBC out of college. We moved around the country a few times and now our family lives in Texas. I love making design work for people. This venture is a true calling back to my roots as an artist learning about out Art History and making creative design work. TV pays the bills but this is more fun! I’ve been offering a 20% discount for gold members. I charge $25 an hour and send samples throughout the build. We start with the basic concept then get going on the elements needed for the cab. I can design standup arcade machines as well. Marquees, instruction decals, control panels, the whole deal. I'm quick with all the programs designers use today. I run both Mac & PC at home. 2D, 3D - all the Adobe stuff. I have tons of experince in digital design which saves you time and money. I'm working with Bowman Signs in Connecticut, all my designs have been printed by Bradley and we are working on creating some generic design cabs that can easily be customized and made to spec. His shop is second to none and I enjoy seeing his prints on member’s cabs, they look outstanding! Please check out my work and let me know if you'd like to hire me for your next project. Thank you, all the best! Josh
  6. We're very excited to announce that Rec Room Masters has become a partner of HyperSpin. Any Rec Room Masters customer receives a 20% HyperSpin discount! If you've been considering getting a cabinet just take a look at their site here and it'll definitely get your blood pumping! On top of the various cabinet builds they offer they also provide custom art services so it's definitely a good option for anyone dreaming about a specific build too. Happy gaming!
  7. devilFist

    Final preparation

    Well, I'm finally going to have some time to build my cabinet... took awhile, darn career getting in the way of my games! Anyway, I have several issues I'd like to hear opinions and advice on, but I just realized I left all my notes and schematics at work. I'll add more questions and corrections later, since my memory may not be 100% accurate. Basic design info: about 7 feet tall, 36" wide, and 36" deep (without control panel, which I plan on making removable). 4-player U360 with (10) rgb buttons per player, (2) aimtrak, (1) rgb trackball with (3) system rgb buttons. 40" LCD, 5.1 sound, secondary and tertiary LCD's, LCD marquee. Emulating arcade and console games. 1. I would like to have glass or plexiglass over the screen. I like the "depth" feeling from standard arcade cabinets with the monitor behind a protective layer. I think I would prefer glass over plexi for this application. My questions are: (a) is there a material type that better minimizes glare? (b) how much of a gap between the screen and the glass? (c) what angle off the vertical should the glass and screen be mounted, keeping in mind possible reflections from screen onto glass? (d) "smoked" glass looks cool, but does it dull colors or otherwise impair viewing? I will be playing some games in 1080p. 2. I would like to have glass or plexiglass over my control panel's artwork: (a) I do not want any visible screws/clamps/etc. The buttons will hold it in place, but will I need to secure it better (especially near edges)? (b) also, the edge must look good. T-molding to cover both plexi and wood, or any other options? (c) for this application glass has great advantages, but since it will receive more wear and tear, maybe plexi is better? (d) what angle off the horizontal should the top of the panel be (I think my design was close to 5 degrees)? 3. I want hinges to lift the top of my control panel: (a) need to be able to access Ipac/interface and controls for maintenance (a) must be heavy-duty enough to lift the panel with all electronics attached and hold open (b) when closed, all seams/lines should be as invisible as possible 3. T-molding for side panels' edges? (a) I kinda like keeping the wood slightly rounded, smoothly sanded, and painted a relevant color for the artwork, but am worried about the edge of the vinyl artwork looking crappy if there is nothing to butt up against. Anyone tried both and can compare? (b) I had planned on using 1/2" plywood. I'm aware of positives/negatives of it vs. MDF. If I use T-molding, however, it seems that options and varieties of T-molding in 1/2" is quite limited. I thus figured 3/4" plywood would be better for the sides (I was already using some for other parts that needed a little more strength than the 1/2"), but still want to keep the weight down. I guess I don't have a specific question about this, just wondering what other people have done and think? 4. Casters for movability? (a) Originally, I planned on putting casters in the rear two corners, and solid feet in the front two. Now I'm thinking I will rarely have to re-position the cabinet, so not only will this be unnecessary, but the casters may allow a little more "wiggle" than solid feet, which in the heat of competitive play may be annoying. Has anyone tried this with good/bad results? (b) What kind of feet should I use? I figure I should leave at least a 1/4" gap between cabinet and ground to allow both airflow and the possibility that carpet or soft flooring may affect how close the cabinet really is to the floor. If there are four feet, the cabinet may teeter if they are not adjustable. 5. USB and other inputs? (a) I will put a powered USB hub right below the screen for Aimtrak guns, gamepads, and other needs. Is there any need for 3.0 USB? Is there a simple way to secure the Aimtrak/gamepad cables so they are not accidentally unplugged/damaged during gameplay? (b) Bliss-Box? I read a bit about it, but need more info. I had purchased an NES-to-USB adapter and was disappointed with the lag... impossible to play Tyson's Punch Out... but Bliss-Box looks promising. (c) I also plan on having an I/O for ethernet, TV coaxial, headphones/mic, and power. Are there any others I should consider? Thanks everyone. Just reading through others' posts has been immensely valuable, and I truly appreciate it. I'll post some pictures when I actually start cutting and things look like they are taking shape. I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions until then.
  8. Hi im new in the forum. I am contstructing an Arcade Cabinet Machine. My idea is play arcade games from Nes to Naomi. Naomi is the top of game i want to play. I have a pc gammer to test with gtx970 and 16gb rams and Naomi Runs great but i think this is tooo much in money and hardware for only recreative of this type My question is what is the best hardwar fot the lowest cost to play Naomi with Full graphics on the best fps. RAM? VIDEO? and MICRO? Sorry for my english i speak spanish and i do my best Thanks for all for this comunity its look pretty cool
  9. I've seen a couple of online stores which sell parts I will need to build a bar top cabinet. I wanted to know if this board has a specific one stop shop for everything or do you all search different sites for different parts? Can you please provide some online stores that you use? that would be great since i'll be purchasing the parts very soon and would like to compare prices EDIT: Admin. If possible please move this thread. it was not meant for Pinball machines but for hyperspin arcade cabinets.
  10. Hi, My husband and I own a small cabinet shop. Recently We've reseived an email from some software developers offering us the app for designing cabinets and calculating the price of a kitchen. It is called Online 3D kitchen constructor http://prodboard.eu/kitchen/ I know that it's a good point that we should use a program to help us in our business, and it seems quite a nice solution, a rental program, by the way, but who knows. So I would highly appreciate if you could give me some advice on this particular software, whether it is worth paying for. Thanks in advance,
  11. Im looking in to building a Virtual pinball machine and wanted to get the most out of the hardware and was thinking about making a 2 in 1 cabinet. Has anyone done this? I've done some sketches of what i was thinking.... just wondering if anyones has got any thoughts.
  12. Here is a link to my build gallery: http://imgur.com/gallery/fer2m
  13. Hi, I bought for some months ago a Naomi Virtua Striker 4 2006 Cabinet for 220€. Wanted to rebuild it to an Mame Cab. The first job in my todo list was to change the CRT I found a used rarely Philips 29 PT 9521 73,7 cm (29 Zoll) 4:3 100 Hertz PIXEL PLUS with 720p/1080i for 50€ But i was disappointed about the Video Quality. For Games it was ok . It wasnt pixelate but for configuration of mame in windows mode at 1080i or 720p it wasnt sharp enough. So i decided to change the CRT with an LCD. I bought a used 26" LCD with guarantee and 720p<for 110€. SAMSUNG 26" FLAT TV LCD ,HDMI, 16:9 , Chinch, Scart, VGA, HF, OSD, HD Ready ... It was easy to fit the LCD between the Front and the Legs of the Naomi Cabinet. Here some current Images . I emptied the Cabinet from Triforce and Powersupply, Sega i/o and all the Looms. Bought a little ShuttlePC XPC for Hyperspin etc for 60€. Shuttle XPC GLAMOR SN95G5B Athlon64X2 3800+ 2GB Changed the Controlpanel . New RGB Led Buttons IPac-FS32 + Pacled64 Now the Bezel with Protectglass and mount new Speakers + amp is still todo. And new Artworks. Here a 3D Model of the Naomi Candy Cabinet of the SitDown and StandUp version. https://sketchfab.com/models/5176f1f4aa5e47e68aa879aa4f4d7550 Thats all for the Moment. Greetings uNkeLo
  14. Its in need of a bit of a polishing around the sides, but is now up and running... Yes that is a beer fridge built into the base! Update, bought second hand Xbox 360 remotes (retro joystick just not suited for N64 and Dreamcast) and have stripped and replaced with mod kit to match unit colour
  15. Hello all, my cabinet project is coming to a close, and I'm just starting to post some videos on it. Please enjoy, and let me know if you have any comments, questions, or advice! Part 2: Part 3: I will post more videos to this topic as they are finished out. Thank you for checking it out, JonesyBoy
  16. Hello Everybody, I'm turning an old royal Video (Neo Geo) Cabinet into an modern design Cabinet. I bought this cabinet 10 years ago and left it at my parents house. It has been dead for a few years so i decided to make it a hyperspin cabinet. I want it in the livingroom but my wife wasn't very happy about that. To make her a little bit happier I want the cabinet look like an eames design chair. Wood on the outside and and black. So i bought black buttons and removed the bezelart and tinted the glas over the monitor black. Put in an old 22" crt vga monitor i got for free. A xin - Mo decoder and new black buttons. I bought a secondhand pc with a i7 2600k 3.2Ghz Processor and a nvidia GT530 2GB.2 external USB ports on the outside and extra buttons on the side for pinball. I made a new marquee of plexiglass 5mm printed with black and white with the hyperspin logo. Next step is to make the joystickpanel black with vinyl and but the black buttons in and i ordered wood vinyl for the side of the cabinet. I wil post new pictures when i'm done. Regards Leo (CenobiteNL)
  17. I made a couple of various decals for my cab and I just wanted to see if there's any intrest in them. I work as a graphic designer at a print shop so I design and print these badboys by myself. I just wanted to check if there's any interest in them? I am currently building a webshop for them. I can take preorders right now and you will receive a discount. A full set is priced at 99.00$USD. Prices are including shipping without tracking. The material: The decals are printed on on solvent printer/plotter, the material is high quality vinyl, "JAC 8110" to be precise. It's high gloss and easy to apply, especially if you wet apply it. The ink is water proff. The decals come precut and have about an inch of bleed on the edges for easy fitting. The art is high resolution for a high quality print, no jpeg artifacts here. A full set includes the following: 1. Left panel (48X60cm with bleed) 1. Right panel (48X60cm with bleed) 1. Control panel (52X23cm with bleed) 1. Front panel (52X16cm with bleed) 1. Back panel (52,5X54cm with bleed) 1. Marque (47,5X11,2cm with bleed) My personal cab: They can also be resized if you give me the measurements of your cab. The themes I have made so far are: Metal Slug/Neo Geo: Street fighter: Mortal Combat: Sonic/Sega: Mix and match the way you like. A couple of more themes are planned. Post any questions here and I'll try to reply to them as quick as I can. I accept payments trough paypal, or if you live in Sweden you can pay me directly to my bank account. Detailed view:
  18. Took far longer than I expected and I'm easily 60+ hours invested. Over 110 games are represented. The rules were: -Every game/series shown must have had an actual arcade machine at some point. -Use interesting art instead of game art whenever possible. -No CG art -All games must be iconic, classics or be important to me in some way. Obviously this is a low quality file. The actual image is 73" tall almost 40" wide, 300 DPI and over a gig in size. Time to have it printed! So what do you think?
  19. Took far longer than I expected and I'm easily 60+ hours invested. Over 110 games are represented. The rules were: -Every game/series shown must have had an actual arcade machine at some point. -Use interesting art instead of game art whenever possible. -No CG art -All games must be iconic, classics or be important to me in some way. Obviously this is a low quality file. The actual image is 73" tall almost 40" wide, 300 DPI and over a gig in size. Time to have it printed! So what do you think?
  20. Latest project pictures: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi all, since I was a kid i've been facinated by arcade machines. Once I grew older and got a job I've always wanted to buy an original arcade cabinet. However, time flew by and money was short so I never got to buy one. Recently I discovered hyperspin and the urge to get myself an arcade cabinet got bigger and bigger. As time whent by I met myself a girl and got married. She doesn't like the looks of an arcade cabinet so the final option I've got to get my dream is to build one myself that my wife doesn't find "ugly". I will be posting the progress here and when I'm finished I'll try to make some tutorials and maybe even a new global theme. Since I'm a graphic designer and not so good with hardware and powertools I might also be asking for some advice along the way. Last week i've sketched something in Adobe Illustrator that was inspired on some designs I found on the internet. It suits my needs and also my wife's. I've also learned how to use Google Sketchup and started to draw out the cabinet in Sketchup. Doing so lead to some questions. But before I ask them this is what i've got so far: I ran into one issue whilest designing this cabinet in sketchup: since I'm using angles and have no miter saw for big boards (70cm x 18mm x 90cm) I will be having gaps. I was thinking to fill them with woodfiller then sand and paint them so they look like one part, would that be a good idea ? Cheers and untills soon.
  21. This is my final result for my arcade cabinet i built. Let me know what you think. Thank you.
  22. Based the design off the WeeCade but hand drew it onto the mdf(3/4). Was going to go with a strictly classics single player cab with six buttons for things like MK2 and SF2, but I got my hands on a free computer with a PhenomX4(only 1.8Ghz) and 4Gb of ram, so I decided to do more with it. Running Hyperspin with hand selected MAME games (around 110 so far), SNES, NES, Genesis, N64 and Computer games. I threw this one together for ~$200 between buying Tmolding, paint, primer, sandpaper, acrylic, misc cords, fans, speakers, amp, etc. I had the buttons, computer was given to me with the 640gb hdd. and I got the monitor(17") at goodwill for $25, also had a few misc items lying around. Audio amp from Amazon, small form factor 300W PSU. Soldered in a power strip to the C-14 outlet. Also the back of the custom button inlay Custom plexy speaker shrouds. Still not sure if I want to seal them or let the light shine through. I kinda like them how they are Mixed blue and white buttons and a Sanwa Joystick. Had an old leaf switch joystick in there, but it sucked. Wires and oldschool ipac that I had bought from a cousin last year USB and audio out for headphones. Fan exhaust and custom power button. Standard arcade button was too long and wouldn't allow the door to close so I cut it and put a smaller button inside and hot glued the crap out of it. Works great and is recessed enough that you cant accidentally bump it. Did the same with the USB port. The paint finish turned out AMAZING. Used high gloss rattlecan; primed x3 with wet sanding in between, then 5x coats of gloss white with wet sanding in between. you can see your reflection in it.
  23. I just wanted to share my arcade cabinet and the final results. The actual build took about two weeks and the last three to four months I invested in getting each and every emulator to work properly. The first boot was somewhere in December 2013 configured with hyperspin 1.0 and hyperHQ. In march I updated to HyperlaunchHQ. I just love the old arcade games via Mame and are now completely hooked to pinball (FP). Used I-Pac for the buttons and Pac-Drive and LedBlincky (registered) for led support. Ever since December the cabinet is used every week and even my wife is now hooked . This week I will install some custom Mortal Kombat side art and consider this project finished! I learned a lot from all you guys out there who build their own cabinet and shared their experiences and knowledge via this forum. I thank you all . Up next is my pinball cabinet which I plan to build in the upcoming weeks/month(s).
  24. Hey guys! I'm working on getting everything needed to build my cabinet and was just stuck on once piece of the puzzle. I'm not too sure how the wiring of the internals should work if i want to connect the bartop to the wall outlet using a single plug. I mean i know i could use a power bar and have a switch in the back to turn it on and off, but i dont think constantly cutting the power to my internal PC and monitor would play out too well in the long run. As well, I've been looking for methods on mounting the motherboard inside my cabinet on the threads but couldn't find anything concrete. I know the board has to get in there somehow but i'm not sure how exactly. Like do i just screw it into the base of the cab, or do i attach it to a metal case then place the case on the bottom. I know my question's pretty vague but anything helps.. THANK YOUU
  25. mclarkin9681

    MAME Cocktail Cabinet setup

    Hello All, I am looking to build a cocktail style cabinet. Just 2 players (joystick on each end...not along the side). My question is regarding joysticks. Is there a list or spreadsheet (or a way of searching MAME) to find which roms use a 4 way joystick and which ones use 8 way? I currently have an upright acrade that uses the Mag-Stick from Ultimarc...that switches between 4/8. This works fine, but i would like to use just a 4-way joystick if possible...but not sure how many games i will sacrifice if i choose that option. Any advice would be great. Thanks in advance.
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