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Bonjour à tous, ayant toujours baigné dans le jeux vidéo et étant très nostalgiques des anciennes consoles, il a été tout naturel pour nous trois de nous lancer dans le montage de notre propre borne d'arcade. Ce projet étant à la base destiné a y installer uniquement un raspberry pi 3 avec Retropie, nous sommes arrivés ici et sommes très intéressés à faire évoluer notre borne d'arcade en y intégrant un PC relativement récent sur Windows et Hyperspin. Pour le moment nous en sommes encore au stade du montage de la caisse de type cabinet. Au cours des prochaines semaines, nous serons en mesure de publier des photos du montage et sommes naturellement très intéressés par vos retours d'expérience. Au plaisir.
Hello Fellow Hyperspinners! Im starting on a new project that Im building for my brother that will involve a NES console and raspberry Pi. I know its not Hyperspin, however; Ill detail the process as I go and in case anyone would want to use a Pi instead of using an ITX motherboard. Here are my project goals (depending on the snags I run to, might change): -Retain the cartridge loading mechanism (minus mainboard) and give it a purpose ...I plan to either use a USB drive or hard drive inside an existing cartridge and use the 72 pin connector (both in the cartridge and Nintendo cartridge receptacle) to run a USB connection to the Pi. I will also incorporate a feature in the cartridge that will allow the Pi to power only when the cartridge is inserted (giving the cartridge/loading mechanism a working feature instead of just anesthetics). Plus, I could use other cartridges for other features to the Pi such as video player or use SimplyAustin's way he uses his Pi.....to stream HS from another PC, etc. -Use the existing A/V block for Pi A/V out -On back side, incorporate a HDMI, power connection, and network jack where the old power/RF adapter are....looking a using a wallplate that will have a hdmi and network jack snap-in -Swap out the front controller ports for dual usbs in each controller port....will be using 8bitdo NES30s controllers, therefore; the controllers could be connected via BT or usb cable -Incorporate the power and reset switch to shutdown the pi or reset the emu using a Mausberry shutdown/reset module -Depending on the condition of the NES, would like to keep it like the original....if the case I get looks bad and has yellowing, Im going to proceed on using retrobrite technique -Use RetroPie/Emu station....will be passing the boot from SD card to the USB flash drive/hard drive Soooooo parts have been ordered and will post screenshots of the steps once they come in! _________________________________________________________________________ As the parts slowly trickle in, I started on some of things. Will break it down into three sections: system mod, cartridge mod, and then the Pi programming. Ill also create a parts list in case anyone wants to mimic what Im doing: System: With the system, I wanted to accomplish a few objectives: -Utilize the cartridge loader for inserting the storage cartridge (still in the air on this one) -Back power the Pi with USB hub -If possible utilize A/V ports for alternate display (instead of HDMI) -Allow the NES30 controllers to be hooked up via Bluetooth or by cable -Use existing controller ports and just pass the USB signals from the NES30 to the Pi in case a physical connection is required. The will require modification to the controller cable by cutting one end of the cable and inserting a male NES controller port (the other end is micro usb) -Use a wall jack that accepts HDMI and CAT6 plugs....in between these two jacks, Ill have to drill a hole for AC adapter extension cable end -Minimize as few cuts as possible to the system case...unfortunately a cut for the wall jack is required on the back of the NES and a few standoffs in the case Cartridge Loader: I wanted to see if the cartridge loader could be used without the main board. (and no the copy of Metroid will not be used in this build ) Here is a picture of the cartridge loader without main board. Success Cartridge loader without mainboard....fully functional still! USB Hub: Next....was playing around with the orientation of the components in the NES that will be installed. Found a perfect location for the USB hub....the plus, the holes in the USB hub are the same distance as the left standoffs USB hub test mount in the NES using plastic standoff extenders. The one thing I noticed is that there was an existing standoff that was higher in respect to the other standoff. If I left the problematic standoff at its current height, I would not be able to insert USB cables into the hub as the cartridge loader would be in the way. I proceeded to halve the standoff height so USB connectors are under the cartridge loader. Backplate mounting for HDMI, network, and AC adapter extension cable: The second modification to the NES case was needed for the walljack plate I'll be using. Ill have to cut the back of the case and eliminate the RF adapter, channel switch, and AC adapter circuitry to accommodate the HDMI, CAT 6 and AC adapter connections. My first cut on the back of the NES.....pretty good I say! In order to create the even cut, I used an utility knife to get rid of majority of the plastic then filed with sandpaper to get it about perfect: Heres the completed look....one thing I had an issue with was centering the AC adapter connection with the wall plate. Due to the fact of how the wall plate was designed, I could not center the AC adapter hole in respect to the hole made in the NES case. If I were to do that, I would be hitting the HDMI/Network snap connectors on the back. The AC adapter is, however; centered in respect to the edge of the HDMI connection and edge of the network jack connection. Other than that, the screws that give the wallplate support are center in respect of the hole cut in console plastic Raspberry Pi Mounting: To install the Pi, I had to eliminate four standoffs. I also had to modify one of the cartridge loader standoffs to accommodate the network connection to the Pi. Before the cut: After the cut: NES to USB internal/external cabling: In order for the NES30 controllers to interface with the Pi via USB, I had to modify some cables. I decided to keep the NES controller ports and make them carry USB signals. Since the port contains two columns of pins: 4 pins and 3 pins, I used the 4 pin column to establish my USB connection. What was nice was that I was able to use the existing NES mainboard connector and insert wires that have pin terminations. On other side, I spliced into a USB male connector For the external cables, I had to splice into a male micro USB connector into a NES male controller cable (using a NES extension cable). The final result is a cable that is 10 ft long. I made two of these: Power / Reset Button modification: To keep the functionality of the power and reset buttons, I decided to purchase a Mausberry shutdown circuit. This will require modification to the power/reset button circuit board by disconnecting a circuit board trace. If left intact, the power and reset button would do the same thing instead of being independent circuits in respect to the Mausberry circuit. I also had to solder a 2.2K Ohm resistor to the negative side of the LED so that the LED doesnt turn orange (this is a result of the LED receiving too much voltage from the Pi). Before the trace cut: After the trace cut: A/V Connector: Since I wanted to retain the nostalgia of the A/V connector, I modified the A/V block case in order to accommodate the wall jack mount. By the way, this connection will be usable as the RCA jack will be spliced into a 3 pole A/V cable and connected to the Pi Here is the build so far minus the wiring of the power/reset switch, the Mausberry circuit, and cartridge loader: Cartridge Loader: Because of how the 72 pin connector was made, it was really hard trying to solder wires to the bottom connector upper contacts. I ran into issues where the wires would break from the contacts. After fiddling with this, I decided to connect the upper and lower contacts of the lower connector with solder and was able to insert pin cable wires into the back. It actually worked out great! I secured the pin connector and 72 pin connector with hot glue. Mausberry Circuit and Finishing Up Received the mausberry circuit and hooked it up to the power / reset switch. At the finish line! All assembled together Cartridge: Using the cartridge, I want to do a few things: -Update: So after much debate and hours looking, a 2.5 inch hard drive would not fit properly in the cartridge case without contorting the SATA cables beyond their capabilities. I was also concerned about heat generated from the drive. I proceeded to purchase a 256 GB USB drive without breaking the bank. Any more than that and the price starts getting ridiculous. Im still up in the air in using a hard drive in the NES and eliminate the cartridge storage feature...... -Utilize the existing connector to pass the signals to the NES when its loaded into the cartridge reader (if I want to continue on this path) Heres the inside of non-working game...will be soldering the USB signals to the edge connector using the existing PCB holes: I also removed all the circuitry in order to have just the PCB: In order to fit the 2.5 hard drive, I had to cut the circuit board as so accommodate the size Update: I started to receive the SATA cables and 2.5 inch hard drive in the main...after much orientation changes and frustration, I had to come to the realization that the hard drive will not fit in the cartridge....the SATA cable would be torqued beyond usability. I was also concerned with heat dissipation. Im still torn on using a USB drive or just suck it up and install the 2.5 hard drive in the NES.....and use the loader / NES cartridge for nostalgic purposes. Since the cartridge PCB board was already cut in anticipation of using a hard drive, I could still use it for designing the USB flash drive interface. Ill continue with the mock-up with the USB flash drive and see how it works along with getting all the great games I would like to get on there. Modified PCB in cartridge: USB female connector that is terminated into the game connector Orientation of the drive in the cartridge: Pi Programming: I started the Pi programming as I continue to wait for parts to come in. Since I haven't been on the RetroPie site for a while, to my surprise they offer a BerryBoot version. If you don't know what BerryBoot is, its a multi-OS launcher....howwever; the best part of it is that you can extract system OS files onto a external device like a USB flash drive or hard drive at the very beginning without having to set this up post install. Links to software will provided BerryBoot: I actually went to the main BerryBoot site and downloaded the program. I proceeded to use the SDFormatter program to format my SD card to FAT. After that, I extracted the BerryBoot files to the SD card and booted the Pi. Upon boot, you are presented with a easy GUI that offers setting up your OS. Since I want majority of the system files and ultimately RetroPie to be on my USB, I proceeded to select destination device to this external device Once BerryBoot formats your USB drive, its time to install Retropie. I had to click on the second tab to see RetroPie on the list. After clicking on RetroPie, BerryBoot proceeded to download this package. When this was complete, I was presented with a BerryBoot Menu Editor screen. Since BerryBoot will be launching RetroPie, I set the timeout to 1 sec in case I need to modify any BerryBoot settings before I try setting it to 0
Hi guys, Its been a few years since i've built a cabinet. This time though i decided to build a small bartop cabinet for my nephew's 2nd birthday present as he just loves to play on my cabinet when he comes around. I wanted to do this on a budget so most of it was built on parts i had lying around. Decided to build this one though with a raspberry pi so no hyperspin on this cabinet. All in all the project ran over a week including 3d modeling, cutting wood, painting, wiring, programming. Parts List 15" Samsung LCD (had lying around) Raspberry Pi model b (had lying around) 32gb SD card (had lying around) Old PC speakers (had lying around) Buttons and joystick (had lying around) Ultimarc i-pac (had lying around) 10mm MDF ($16 obtained from bunnings) 8mm Perspex ($30 obtained from bunnings) Red paint ($8 obtained from bunnings) Black paint ($8 obtained from bunnings) Clear paint ($8 obtained from bunnings) Primer ($20 obtained from bunnings) fluroscent lamp ($25 obtained from bunnings) 6 Port Power Board (had lying around) Misc gritt sandpaper (obtained from bunnings) Misc sized wood screws (had lying around) Design As i had to build a cabinet to meet the minimum size requirements of all the bits i had lying around i decided to draw up the bits in sketchup first and design the cabinet around those bits. Sketchup already had a pretty nice bartop cabinet in their online warehouse repository so i decided to use that as a template and scale to fit my components. Build I'm a programmer by trade and am terrible with tools but thought hey how hard can it be i shouldn't be able to screw it up. How wrong i was. First of all having the right tool for the job helps incredibly. Trying to cut straight cuts with a jigsaw is absolutely impossible. Reminder to self buy a circular saw. here are some photos of the frame as it was getting cut. I decided to put hinges on the rear panel and control panel so that i could maintain it. The raspberry pi, ipac and pc speaker amplifier will be mounted on the rear panel so when i open it up it would be easy to maintain. Painting Decided to go cherry red with black control panel for the paint job. Did lots of sanding to make sure that they surface was even (though my cuts were bad) and wet sanded every coat. Marquee Whipped something simple up in photoshop (could have done it in ms paint even) and printed out onto A3. stuck it on with tape on the back and sides of the perspex (advantage of having 8mm perspex). Wiring Screwed in the buttons and joystick (8 button's plus coin, start and exit) and soldered on the wiring. Had to use a terminal block to split the ground cable. 3.5 stereo from raspberry pi to the PC speaker amplifier usb from ipac to raspberry pi hdmi to vga converter from raspberry pi to pc monitor (had some issues with getting this to work) Software So this is the interesting part. I've used quite a few raspberry pi's but usually for XBMC, web servers, siri proxy, etc. Luckily some smart cookie made this easy to set up with all emulators with a setup script (retropie). There were a few things i needed to sort out myself though. Caching EDID information. Because the monitor powers on after a few seconds the raspberry pi misses the EDID information from the monitor and as such shows no image what so ever. Upon softwar reboot of the raspberry pi i could get an image. Ended up hard encoding the EDID information into the raspberry pi to resolve this issue. IPAC congifuration needs to be reloaded everytime. Some smart cookie developed some software for linux to program the ipac (http://zumbrovalley.net/readpost.php?artid=6). Just downloaded, compiled and added the command to my rc.local file to ensure it executes at bootup. Retropie like hyperspin uses XML for its gamelists. These gamelists can be auto generated with internal software however it utilises the existing filename. This is ok for the most part apart from mame. So had to output the gamelist from mame and do some quick bash scripting to generate a xml medialist. Retropie also hard encodes the path to the image file within the gamelist xml. So had to create a bash script that grabbed the filename of the game and matched it to the cover art. Luckily emumovies coverart uses the same naming convention as the game name. Wanted to add a splash screen with a custom image so had to write up a script to run at startup. Final Product Anyway here are some final pics of the finished results. The lessons i learnt are that I am terrible with a jigsaw and MDF splits easily. Boot time though is extremely quick. 20 seconds. Great thing about the raspberry pi is that it is extremely energy efficient as well. Hopefully my nephew will treasure this for many years to come.