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Found 4 results

  1. Hey Guys! Inspired by this great forum, I am planning to build a nearly "bezel-less" fullscreen cabinet with a 46" lcd playfield, 30" lcd backbox and 19" lcd dmd monitor. I will revive an empty star trek:tng widebody cabinet for this project which I got for a few bucks. ...check out my new pinball project! - cabinet empty star trek tng (sttng) widebody cabinet new legs new widebody lockbar new "old" williams siderails black painted coindoor (illuminated) wired and fully functional coin acceptors (gives real arcade feeling when you hear the coin drop) original pinball service buttons new playfield and backbox glass blank williams speakerpanel / grill - screens (if you need high-res backglass pics (2560res, 6mb each) for your cabinet check out my other thread at http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8860) 46" playfield lcd sharp fullhd 1080p 1920x1080 screen (sharp LC46D65 - almost no inputlag/delay (< 10ms), awesome viewing angles, auto power on) 30" backglass lcd hdready 720p 1280x768 screen with DVI (noname tv brand, medion) 19" scoreboard / multicolor dmd lcd screen with DVI (benq tft pc monitor) - pc-setup (check out our "How to get the best performance for your cab thread" at http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8595 and "fps comparision thread" at http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12846) optimized win XP SP3 - 32bit (check vpin performance thread above) intel quad core i5-750 overclocked to 4x 4.0ghz msi P55-GD65 mainboard (easy overclocking, very stable) 2x2GB RAM DDR3 1600 (8-8-8 timing) 2x nvidia GTX260 1792MB GPU (1x for playfield and dmd / 1x for backglass, overclocked to GTX280+) 32GB SSD (nudging approved. os booting / table loading / hyperpin browsing. just awesome!) soundblaster x-fi music soundcard (model SB0460. creative crystalizer. great enhancement for pinball sound plus more cpu power left) 2.1 teufel concept c100 quality soundsystem with huge tower-subwoofer (better sound than a real pinball machine, amazing bass effect) 550W 80+ arctic psu / 86% efficiency (pc power consumption is averagely about 350watt) - additional details (for ledwiz wiring diagrams, electronic tutorials and more visit maxxsinner's "pinball electrical 101" at http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12459) ledwiz usb board for rom controlled pinball output. virtual pinball is coming more real as you can imagine! check out http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10980 for software and tutorial. you can drive rgb flipperbuttons, blinky start-, launchball-, extraball-buttons. extra force-feedback for flippers, bumpers, slingshots, replay-knocker and game specific events. pinball shaker motor, gear motor, real flasher/strobes, topperlights... all rom controlled (via original pinball rom) extra 150W 12VDC 12.5A power supply for all ledwiz toys (meanwell SNT MW150-12) 8 siemens 12VDC contactors (inside solenoid/coil) for flipper, slingshot, bumper... force feedback - to hear and feel the mechanical pinball action on your virtual machine. 5 cree mc-e RGBW high power LEDS on top of the backbox, covered with transparent original pinball flasher domes to emulate every pinball flasher color/position of each pinball machine. they are so bright that it reflects to the whole room and the playfield glass. 1 shaker vibration motor for all original shaker pinball tables (like godzilla, harley davidson, last action hero, jurassic park, tales from the crypt, wwf royal rumble, apollo 13, corvette, roadshow, earthshaker, elvis, spider man, indiana jones stern, batman dark knight, csi, 24, lord of the rings, nba, big buck hunter pro, iron man, avatar, rolling stones...) and for special custom mods (medieval madness troll hit, castle destruction, sttng/t2 cannon shot, cactus canyon bandit hit, funhouse rudy hit...) which are not available on the real pinball machine! 1 dualbridge pwm driver to change the intensity (0-100%) of the shaker, for awesome custom mods. 1 car wiper gear motor to emulate the typical pinball gear sound (funhouse rudy's mouth motor, medieval madness drawbridge, addams family bookshelf,sttng/t2 cannons, indiana jones path of adventure...) 1 big analog 1500W stroboscope for special events (attack from mars strobe multiball, theatre of magic captive ball hit, medieval madness castle...) 4 LED strips on the bottom side/underside of the cabinet, wired parallel to the shaker (cool takeoff effect ) 1 pinball replay knocker for the original replay "knock"! 4 RGB LED illuminated transparent pinball buttons to match the button color of each dedicated pinball with original leaf-switches (= no lag/delay. no microswitches) for the right feeling (2 for flippers and 2 extra buttons, like magna-save/extra function for black knight, black knight 2000, grand lizzard, haunted house, jhonny menmonic, judge dredd, jungle lord, medusa, pharaoh, shadow, solarfire, starship troopers, strange science, world cup soccer...) 6 LED illuminated "arcade-like countersinked" frontbuttons with plotted inlays: start, exit, extraball, launchball, howtoplay, pause (rom controlled blinky start-, extra-, launchball buttons...) 2 original pinball tilt-bobs for nudge-left and nudge-right and 1 mercury-switch for front/top-nudging original star trek tng plunger gun (sensitive ball shooting / skillshot also possible) ipac/interfasd buttoninterface (ps2 keyboard connection = no lag/delay, no gamepad emulation) 3x 22cm fans for cab ventilation. silent & powerfull 600rpm, 161.61m³/h (2x cabinet / 1x backbox) - faq some direct-links to frequently asked questions. please use also the search this thread option fans 22cm, brand and model number my flipper force feedback contactor diagram, without ledwiz control (model number is on the pic) how to change the dmd color measurements of playfield screen and cabinet cut-out playfield screen mounting pics how to connect a pinball tilt bob extra 12vdc power supply for force feedback (pic/model/make) ledwiz wiring connections, from ledwiz manual preparing the shaker motor preparing the shaker motor 2 diodes for the siemens contactors (force feedback) how to install a replay knocker wiring the ledwiz how to config your ledwiz force feedback how to config your ledwiz force feedback 2 how the ledwiz output works (preview vids, funhouse) how the ledwiz output works (preview vids, funhouse) 2 how the ledwiz output works (preview vids, funhouse) 3 how to resize your dmd-resolution below 640x480 ideas for a Gear Motor (force feedback) how many contactors do you use? (pic) what's the specific relay you are using? are the contactors active during hyperpin table select browsing (when using ledwiz)? how to config the ledwiz outputs (via excel file)? which leds are you using in your frontbuttons? what are slingshots and bumpers? what stroboscope do you use? pic of my fuse holder more playfield mounting pics with extra monitor support measurements of a widebody wpc pinball cabinet usb/cardreader/headphone output jack idea powder coated lockbar/legs/siderails measurements of my dmd speakerpanel how to hide your windows login/boot screen and more how to show the fps in visual pinball which sort of wire do you use? 5 flasher setup/position pic what's the advantage of siemens contactors for force feedback? Is it possible to use a standard pacdrive instead ledwiz? show me your 5 flasher rgb setup in action (video) what are optocouplers and for what do I need them? how critical do you guys figure having 2 flipper buttons on each side what rgbled lit ones are you using for your flipper buttons? another wiring diagram for easy ledwiz setup (with fuse) how to change the buyin/extraball key is it possible to use the cree extrawhite leds instead a strobe? what's the idea behind your 3->5 flasher setup? cree rgbled wiring pic shaker/knocker/gearmotor wiring schematic where can I find the ledwiz/pacdrive software, tutorial and config-files for rom controlled pinball output? wire diagram for the dual h bridge and more information where can I buy all the ledwiz/pacdrive stuff like shaker motor, flipper buttons, contactors, relays, leds...? useful links for VP/HP installation, downloads, shops etc. mwongs awesome VP/HP setup guide another setup guide for VP9 / HP / UVP / DMD official VP/VPM installation guide full screen table download essential visual pinball files (visual pinball download source) hyperpin frontend download cabinet & hardware FAQ pinball electrical 101 - ledwiz wiring diagrams, pinball cabinet electronic guide and tutorial linklist of cab part suppliers all over the world - videos check out my youtube channel for all videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/getmoresun#p/u. Here is a first digital camera video of the machine. the quality isnt the best (switch to "360p -> 480p" @ youtube for a better quality) F_ILihnUCMc&hl First test with rom controlled outputs via Ledwiz 3 rgbw topper flasher, 8 force feedback solenoids/contactors for flippers, slingshots, bumpers, outholes, kickers, autoplunger, diverter and additional special effects, 1 pinball shaker motor, 1 original replay knocker, 1 gear motor, rgb button leds for the right button color... The 3 topper lights are mainly for pinball flasher. Every pinball has flasher, so you can emulate each color and position. They are so bright that it reflect to the playfield glass and to the whole room. Amazing effect - you have to see this in real! All these toys adds so much fun to gameplay! I think this was the missing part of visual pinball. Thanks again to manofwar! ElS7v5Kq2zc check out my new big old beast stroboscope at the end of this video (up to 15000lumen per flash) 3844JcOK-gk Another Vid of Lord Hiryus fantastic Indiana Jones Table kaeWTNyN3Gs Here is a video of the virtual flipper sound and force feedback (siemens contactor + 2.1 subwoofer system) vs. a real medieval madness flipper. I think the virtualmachine sounds better _wTm5ECX10E Fine adjusted my 2 tilt-bobs, works very well now. check out the smooth nudging... you can nudge left and right separately. Here is a youtube-vid for you: CBa_uX69hTQ - trackback Found some Links, Threads, Articles about my Vpin Machine... http://www.retrogamingroundup.com/shownotes/2009/roundup012_2009.12.htm Full screen visual pinball project (Radioshow...Go to News) http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=380642 This is the most amazing emulation project i've seen in a long long time. http://loading.se/forum.php?thread_id=73554 Ett flipperspel byggt för gudar http://iddqd.blog.hu/2009/11/25/a_vilag_legjobb_asztala A világ legjobb asztala http://www.evilavatar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100736 The Most Amazing Emulation Creation Ever http://forum.dvdtalk.com/video-game-talk/565362-greatest-custom-emulator-cabinet-youll-ever-see.html The greatest custom emulator cabinet you'll ever see.. . http://shogungamer.com/news/real-pinball-wizardry-virtual-pinball-machine This is real pinball wizardry: a virtual pinball machine http://www.gamoover.net/Forums/index.php?topic=21077.0 Intégration Visual Pinball dans un flipper - pics - some pics during construction
  2. Hey guys, I will sell my first pinball cabinet to start a new adventure. This time I want custom artwork and a deeper mounted playfield LED monitor with additional "inhouse" flashers. Let the party begin! Thanks to the great hyperpin community (for this project especially to mameman, gstav and h4ck3r) - you guys rock! - cabinet new MDF widebody cabinet (original bally/williams size) new pinball legs new widebody lockbar (mirror polished) new (small) pinball siderails (mirror polished) new stainless steal backbox hinges (mirror polished) new coindoor (illuminated) with original pinball service buttons new playfield and backbox safety glass wired and fully functional coin acceptors (for real arcade feeling) original williams speakerpanel - screens 46" playfield SAMSUNG UE46C6000 LED 1920x1080 LCD screen 30" backglass NEC LCD3000 1280x768 LCD screen (professional public display) 15.6" dmd widescreen HANNSG HK162ABB LCD screen update: original pinball DMD (vishay full orange LED without segments) connected via USB pindmd driverboard - pc setup optimized win XP SP3 - 32bit INTEL quad core CPU i7-2600K overclocked MSI P67A-GD65, P67 mainboard SCYTHE MUGEN2 CPU cooler with 2x 14cm fans 2x2GB GSKILL RAM DDR3 1600+ CL7-8-7-24 1x NVIDIA GTX285 2048MB GPU overclocked 64GB SAMSUNG 830 SSD (520MB/S) SOUNDBLASTER X-FI SB0460 soundcard 4.1 (5.1) TEUFEL CONCEPT E300 soundsystem with 10" subwoofer and 2way satellites 600W PSU high efficiency OCZ modXtreme - additional details 3 mercury switches for nudging (left, middle, right) original STAR TREK TNG plunger gun (sensitive ball shooting / skillshot possible) InterfASD buttoninterface (like IPAC32) 3x 22cm fans for cab ventilation (2x cabinet / 1x backbox) custom made topper (2 layers) with LED attract mode animation (64 LEDs via PACLED64) - force feedback complete LEDWIZ force feedback package (all 32 outputs pinballROM controlled) 8 contactors to hear and feel the mechanical flipper, slingshot, bumper etc. action shaker/vibration motor with intensity control (PWM) 10 high power RGB-LED flashers (5 on backbox and 5 parallel to playfield area) stroboscope effects (on backbox, playfield and bottom side of the cab) gear/wiper motor to emulate all mechanical gear sounds RGB-LED illuminated flipper buttons (for dedicated flipper button colors) RGB-LED strips for bottom/floor illumination, wired parallel to RGB-LED flipper buttons original pinball replay knocker for the real deal LED illuminated, rom controlled front buttons (start, launchball, extraball) - updates Here is a first video of the cab 3s8z6fUnbgQ 8JJ4socWtD0 wood work on the cabinet is completed custom artwork is ready to print... 23 different characters and a COW?! applying the artwork topper is made up. LED animated via pacled. 2 layers with bart in the foreground. mounted the plunger gun first test with Indiana Jones, Scared Stiff B2S, White Water,Theatre of Magic and Attack from Mars. I love the "3D illusion"
  3. Hi! I'm working in my cab (slowly, just a few hours each weekend) ... but I want to start the thread of my build. Here is a few pics of the progress and some of the "toys", later I will list all the stuff for reference and to help anyone find them easy. Next step, primer/painting. Then install all the toys/pc, etc. edit: pictures look right in my pc ... why they show rotated when I upload them? oh well edit 2: list of parts, soon links and pictures of the items!! edit 3: think I manage to fix the damn pictures List of parts: Cabinet - Standard Williams Widebody plans (Thanks mameman!!) (link to PDF) - 2x Sheets 3/4” Plywood (picture) (link to buy) - Original Williams/Stern Start, Extra Ball and Launch buttons (Launcher of AFM) (picture) (link to buy) - Original Williams Speaker Panel (picture) (link to buy) - Pinball Coin Door + Dual Coin Mesh (picture) (link to buy) - Custom Made Coin Door Service Buttons/Panel (picture) - 4x Leg Protectors - Clear Color (picture) (link to buy) - Custom Artwork (still working on it) (picture) - Original Williams Launcher/Plunger (picture) (link to buy) - 22" Ball Bearing "smooth close" Rails for PC and PCBs (picture) (link to buy) - Playfield Glass (soon) (picture) (link to buy) - Power Cable Outlet Quick Connector (For back power cable) (picture) (link to buy) - Power Kill Switch (For Main, back) (picture) (link to buy) - Power On Switch (For Power, front/down Cabinet) (picture) (link to buy) - LEXAN Plexy Glass (For Backglass) (picture) (link to buy) - 3x Paint (Primer, Black and White) (picture) (link to buy, link to buy, link to buy) - Aluminum C-Channel (For Speaker Panel) (picture) (link to buy) - Original Bally Tilt Switch Assembly (picture) (link to buy) - Legs/Rails/Lockdown Bar/etc from virtuapin.net (got them lighting fast, thanks Paul!!) (picture) (link to buy) Screens - Samsung UN46F5500 46-Inch 1080p 120Hz LED HDTV (picture) (link to buy) - RCA 29” 1080p 60Hz LCD HDTV (picture) (link to buy) - DMD (picture) (link to buy, alternative link to buy) - PinDMD2 (For DMD) (picture) (link to buy, alternative link to buy) - Zeb High Voltage Board (For DMD) (picture) (link to buy, alternative product to buy) - 17" Dell Monitor (For Backup) (picture) (link to buy) Computer (soon) Sound - Alpine MRP-F300 Car Amplifier (picture) (link to buy) - Kicker C10 10" Comp Series Sub 4 Ohm Speaker (picture) (link to buy) - 2x Kicker DS525 2-Way 5.25" Car Speaker 4 Ohm (picture) (link to buy) Miscellaneous: (Switches, Wiring, etc.) - LED-Wiz (picture) (link to buy) - I-PAC 2 (picture) (link to buy) - 4x Translucent Buttons (flippers and magnasave) (picture) (link to buy) - 22, 18 and 8 AWG Copper Stranded Wires (7 colors, a lot) (picture) (link to buy) - 18 AWG Copper Stranded Wires (Tri-Color RGB+Power for STAR LEDs) (picture) (link to buy) - 12 AWG Speaker Cable (picture) (link to buy) - 40x 3AG in line Fuse Holders (picture) (link to buy) - 3x Fuse Holder (for main power, dmd transformer and knocker?) (picture) (link to buy) - 100x Fuse 250V Fast 3AG 500ma (picture) (link to buy) - 10x Fuse 250V Slow 3AG 500ma (picture) (link to buy) - 10x Fuse 250V Slow and Fast 3AG 1A/1.5A/3A (picture) (link to buy) - 5x 9-Pin/4-Pin/15-Pin Molex Male/Female Connectors (picture) (link to buy) - 10x 3/5/7-Pin Molex Male/Female Connectors (picture) (link to buy) - 100x 22/18 Gauge Female Quick Disconnects (.187" size) (picture) (link to buy) - 100x 22/18 Gauge Female Quick Disconnects (.250" size) (picture) (link to buy) - 100x 22/18 Gauge Pro Nylon Butt Connectors (picture) (link to buy) - Smart Energy-Saving Power Strip (picture) (link to buy) - 2x Wire Ducts/Covers (customized) (picture) (link to buy, link to buy) - 20x Heatsinks for 3W RGBs/1W Leds (picture) (link to buy, link to buy) - 16x Heatsinks for LED-Wiz and other chips components (picture) (link to buy) - Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive (for LED heatsinks) (picture) (link to buy) - 30x Assorted Microswitches (long hinge, roller, etc) (picture) (link to buy, link to buy) - 20x Clear Mini Mars and Dome Tabs (picture) (link to buy, link to buy) - 12x 3p/6p/12p Terminal Blocks (picture) (link to buy, link to buy, link to buy) - 2x PS3 Eye Cameras (for BAM) (picture) (link to buy) - Battery holder (for BAM) (picture) (link to buy) - 5x Car Relays + Quick Harnes (picture) (link to buy) - 20x Diodes (For Knocker, Contactors, etc) (picture) (link to buy) - 100x Resistors (All sizes needed for fun ideas) (picture) (link to buy) - 10x 27ohms 5W Resistors for RGB (blue and green color) (picture) (link to buy) - 5x 33ohms 5W Resistors for RGB (red color) (picture) (lint to buy) - Assorted Size Heat Shrink Tubing (picture) (link to buy) - 5x LED Amplifiers for extra 5 RGBs (picture) (link to buy) - 20x Quick connectors for LED Amplifiers (picture) (link to buy) - Lot of Extras!!! Force Feedback - Williams/Bally Knocker (SA-2-23) (picture) (link to buy) - Custom Knocker Strike Plate (For Knocker) (picture) - Volkswagen Wiper Motor (For Gear) (picture) (link to buy) - 8x Siemens Contactors 3RT1016-1BB41 (picture) (link to buy) - L298N Dual H Bridge DC Stepper Motor Drive Controller Board (For Shaker) (picture) (link to buy) - 2x Bore Hub (For Shaker) (picture) (link to buy) - 2x Shaft Collar (For Shaker) (picture) (link to buy) - Pittman 19 Volt DC Dual Shaft Motor (Shaker Motor) (picture) (link to buy) (alternative $5 motor!!!) - 2x Conduit Hanger (For Shaker Motor) (picture) (link to buy) - Topper Fan (Custom Made) (picture) Power - 12V 15A 180W Switching Power Supply (picture) (link to buy) - 24V 14.6A 350W Regulated Switching Power Supply (picture) (link to buy) - 24V 2A Switching Power Supply (For Knocker and any extras) (picture) (link to buy) - 80v/100v Transformer (For DMD) (picture) (link to buy) Lighting - 4x small RGB LEDs (For Flipper and Magnasave) (picture) (link to buy) - 10x "Chinese" LED STAR RGB (lol ... and I think the RGB labels are backward?) (picture) (link to buy) ... yes they are, where it say R+ is B+, and B+ is R+, G is in the center and is ok. This is important because Red and Blue use different Resistors. - 2x 22 LED Flash Strobe Light White (For back or top, don't like them at my face ) (picture) (link to buy) - 100x White/Yellow/Red/Blue/Green/UV/Infrared 10/5/3mm LEDs (just for fun ideas) (picture) (link to buy, link to buy) Cooling 2x Rosewill 220mm (for Cabin/PC Door) (picture) (link to buy) Extracting the Hot Air A few extra 80mm Fans I may use....
  4. On the left, the original 1982 Mr. & Mrs. Pac-Man Pinball. To the right, the replica. Thank you to all cabinet builders for the inspiration, especially chriz99 and mameman! Playfield Cabinet The front and back corners are cut at 45 degrees, with miter splines for strength. I also used wood bracing on the inside corners under the leg brackets. The leg bracket holes were drilled at 25/64" which gave a little wiggle room to tighten fully. One problem I ran into: I cut the slots for the side rail plastic channels at 1/16" with a router and Harbor Freight slot cutter set, but after painting they weren't wide enough to hammer the rails down into, so I had to redo that. Slots for the TV were routed to 1/2" leaving only 1/4" thickness. I was worried about this in back with the weight of the backboxes so I made 2 bracing pieces to reinforce. The TV ended up being slim enough to install (fully cased) from the top, if I had realized that earlier I would not have routed the slots all the way back. Because there is a Samsung logo tab sticking out on the bottom of the TV, it sits slightly off-center to the right in the cabinet despite the routing, it is only about 1/8" off though. The remote works fine (needed for switching to 3D) as the sensor is on the bottom right of the TV so ends up near the buttons on the left side. 3D does work, check out the thread by toxie for more info. Because the Samsung UN46ES7100 is active shutter, you need two pairs of glasses turned sideways for it to work and not see black bars. This does make it hard to see the backglass and DMD, and the resolution is cut in half to achieve 3D. I don't turn on the 3D very often but it's nice to have, I did angle the TV downward anyway so it gives some illusion of depth though 2D. 3/4" Birch Plywood Kreg 1-1/4" Course Pocket Screws (every 6 inches, 2 inches from edges, with wood glue) 46" Samsung UN46ES7100 Widebody Lockdown bar Williams/Bally Lockdown Bar Lever Guide Assembly BLACK KNIGHT (Williams) Side rails pair Spiral nail .15" dia. x 3/4" Screw 6-32 x 5/8" hex 4X Pin Cushion Cabinet Protectors 4X Williams/Bally New Style Leg Bracket 4X Heavy Duty Leg Leveler With Nut 4X Leg Leveler Rubber Castors 4X Bally Gray Legs 2X Williams/Bally WPC/WPC95 Playfield Glass Side Rail Plastic Channel Williams/Bally WIDEBODY Playfield Glass Rear Plastic Channel Grill - speaker 7" x 7" Vent grill - metal 2-1/2" x 19" (cut to size) 3/16" Smoked Plexiglass 1-1/8" Double-Bitted Lock Lock Plate Piano Hinge Upper Backbox (A bit taller and wider to fit screen) Also routed to 1/2" to recess the decased screen as much as possible. Routing on all sides presented a problem, how to get the TV in there? I ended up leaving the right side unglued so it is removable, the hole in the bottom is large enough to get a screwdriver in there and tighten with pocket screws. The top trim piece is not glued in as it would cover the screw holes holding things together. 3/4" Birch Plywood 1/4" MDF (Backglass retainers) Kreg 1-1/4" Course Pocket Screws (every 6 inches, 2 inches from edges, with wood glue) (all plastic/metal trim was cut to size with a Dremel Fiberglass Cut-Off Wheel) 30" NEC LCD3000 (originally Dell W3000 but it would not turn on reliably, a common issue I have read online) Trim backglass 3/16" side plastic set-3 Bally Stainless Lift Trim 3/16" Smoked Plexiglass Lower Backbox (A bit taller and wider to fit screen) For now, I am using the HannsG instead of a real DMD. (I wanted to use custom color settings and not have the intense reflection on the playfield glass) It is routed about 1/2" and wedged in there tightly. I had to make the box taller, which I justified by having the combined height of the backboxes be the same as a Williams widebody. Theare are 2 pieces of plexiglass with a paper bezel inbetween. 3/4" Birch Plywood 1/2" MDF (Backglass retainers) Kreg 1-1/4" Course Pocket Screws (every 6 inches, 2 inches from edges, with wood glue) (all plastic/metal trim was cut to size with a Dremel Fiberglass Cut-Off Wheel) 15.6" HannsG HK162 Trim backglass 3/16" side plastic set-3 Bally Stainless Lift Trim 1/8" Smoked Plexiglass, 1/16" Smoked Plexiglass Stencils Ideally a spray gun is the way to go with stencils, but I like the control of using a foam roller, although it requires a lot of touch up. 2 coats of latex Kilz2 primer, and then latex Glidden Satin Interior, 3 coats blue (Rhapsody), 5 coats yellow (Sunny Side Up), 5 coats pink (Passion Flower) The black was done with 2 coats Zinnser BIN primer (spray can) and 2-3 coats Rustoleum Satin Black (spray can). One thing I re-learned about spray paint, if you're going to do more than one coat, don't space them out too long, I did a second coat of black the next day and it puckered, had to redo it. Another coat should be applied within an hour. Bally Coin door/Cash box I took the coin door completely apart and used a wet sanding sponge (up and down for uniform grain) to buff out scratches, it worked great, used the same on the trim. For the coin insert panel/coin mechs and chutes I used steel wool. I wired the lights in series to the PC, using an extra molex to SATA adaptor to splice the wires. #161 bulbs are the correct voltage. I put the shooter rod/knob in the drill and spun it in steel wool, shined it all up, did the same for the coin return button. You can use steel wool on the cash box, but it takes off the zinc coating, leaving it clean and shiny but different than the original. Bally Coin Door & Trim Bally Cash Box Bally Sticker 3X Bally price plates Carriage bolt set 7/8" Coin Door Lock - Single Bitted #161 Eiki Bulbs Sound The integrated sound on this motherboard is from Realtek, nothing special but you can route seperate audio streams to front and back outputs, which is now a feature in visual Pinball. (Doesn't work in Future Pinball, sound only comes from the primary backbox speakers) I have the Logitech Z506 5.1 speakers on the back outputs, and the Logitech S220 2.1 speakers on the front headphone jack. So backbox rom sound is separated from cabinet mechanical sounds. I am missing authentic force feedback, but I can control the volume of the whole cabinet. I copied the small bottom vent holes in the original cabinet, and the speakers are placed nearby. In the lower backbox, the speakers are facing toward the bottom hole that overhangs the playfield. I like that the speakers aren't right in my face, and without a speaker panel all 3 screens are blank when turned off. Logitech Z506 Logitech S220 PC The playfield cabinet is not as tall as a Williams widebody, so I could not fit a shelf for the PC above where the legs attach. Because of this I just kept the PC in its case, which could technically be pulled out the back if needed, a tight sqeeze though. Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1 Intel DP55KG Motherboard Intel Core i7-860 2.80GHz Kingston 4GB DDR3 1333 Samsung SSD 830 Series 128GB Antec Sonata Designer 500 Case 2X Galaxy GeForce GTS 250 1GB 2X Nexus 92mm Real Silent Case Fan 750W Antec Earthwatts Power Supply Smart Strip LCG3 Surge Protector Logitech mk260 wireless Keyboard & Mouse (these work OK but sometimes lag) Buttons Coin return button=cabinet on The PC momentary switch is in the first coin mech, I just cut off the square top of the switch so it works. Not all coin mechs fit this method, I had to use a metal one from a Ms. Pac-Man. The PC is plugged into the Control Outlet on the Smart Strip and automatically switches everything else on. Coin door start button=Start (also I-PAC2 shift button) L Flipper Front (shifted=L Nudge) R Flipper Front (shifted=R Nudge) L Flipper Back=secondary L flipper/magna save/buy-in (shifted=Insert Coin) R Flipper Back=secondary R flipper/magna save (shifted=Exit) I didn't put in any analog nudging, maybe if I improve at pinball I will, because the above shift settings are not very functional. Shooter (shifted=Fwd Nudge, Genre in Hyperpin) The shooter hits a microswitch wired backwards as NC (Normally Closed) I used Speedbor bits for the button holes, 5/8 & 1-1/8. I-PAC2 4X NOS 1-1/8 short Leaf Switch Buttons 4X PAL nut 5/8" 4X VPCLeaf Switch (works well with I-PAC2 low current) Switch - miniature drop bar target Bally Shooter Ventilation I replicated the original backbox vents, which I wouldn't recommend as most projects have large strong fans. I routed out a long air intake under the cab for the PC, and there's also the speaker hole, which was done with a router using a makeshift jig. I ran a 92mm case fan up into the bottom hole of the lower backbox, and another for the upper backbox, so it has upward airflow. I didn't notice excessive heat in the lower cabinet, the upper backbox (NEC LCD3000) gets hotter though. I covered the routed area in the upper backbox with thermal aluminum tape. I was still a bit concerned about airflow so in the end left the back slightly unhinged and have a small desk fan route air out the back.
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