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Everything posted by rayzor753

  1. Ok, so Zac and I actually dug the poor 'ol HS-NES out of the box it was stuffed in to start working on it again last night. We replaced the Compact Flash card and Compact Flash to SATA adapter we were using as a "poor man's SSD" with a legit 64gb SSD. The SSD is hidden inside the Top Gun cartridge just like we did w/ the Compact Flash card setup... We're going to work on getting the software all reloaded and configured with the new SSD, then we'll start working on finishing the hardware configuration.
  2. LOL yeah, I know... I'm pretty sure we started the arcade cabinet build in Oct of 2010... It doesn't feel like it's been that long, but Zac and I have just had a lot going on in our personal lives and haven't had time to work on our fun-filled side projects. I'm glad to see the site is still up, running, and looking better than ever!
  3. I just use regular rechargeable AA batteries in mine with a wall charger. http://www.samsclub.com/sams/duracell-charger-charger-aa8ct-aaa4ct/prod10700113.ip?navAction=
  4. Thanks. If I had to guess, probably around $250ish so far... I bought most of the parts a while ago... I know the motherboard, at the time, was $68... the RAM was like $20, the SSD I just purchased was $40... I don't remember what the chips cost me to convert the NES ports to USB... I don't really remember what the power supply cost me either... plus buying the broken NES on eBay... I think it is safe to say I've spent at least $250...
  5. We got together and worked out the Reset switch. Zac created a separate thread in the forum detailing the workings of the project. That can be found here… Previously we setup an old computer power button to be pressed by the NES Reset switch. The theory is have that button create a loopback on the serial port that we monitor and have trigger an event (ie…. reset NEStopia). So, instead of resetting the NES completely, it would just "Hard Reset" the current ROM that is playing in NESTopia. The blue/white wire we snaked under the motherboard which is connected to the serial port (pins 2 & 3). Then Zac wrote up a check that will poll the button every 1.1 to 1.3 seconds in AutoIt and trigger a the keyboard hotkey for resetting. Here is a video showing the reset switch in action w/ the AutoIT script:
  6. After doing this, we removed the button faces from the original switches and glued them to some switches taken from a broken computer. We then shortened the back of the plastic for the original power LED slightly, and inserted the new LED that we swiped from a broken computer. After prepping the new sitches and LED we hot glued them in place.
  7. Next, Zac soldered our RetroKits to the NES controller ports. We used a front panel USB cable from an old Gateway computer to wire up our RetroKit NES ports and plug them directly into the motherboard. Below you can see that we ran the USB cable under the motherboard’s backplate from the controller ports to the Front USB pinout on the motherboard. We hot glued the RetroKit chips to the base of the NES case to secure them. Zac and I worked on installing a new power LED light, power switch, and reset switch over the weekend. First, we removed the original switches, buttons, and LED. We then installed the mounting bracket for the original switches and LED backwards to give us more room for the new switches.
  8. After cutting off these unneeded parts, it was time work on the cartridge mounting bracket. We took apart the cartridge carriage and cut off the stub on the bottom of it. We used some super glue to mount the cartridge bracket to the top of the case. We hot glued the power supply to the top of the NES case as well.
  9. Instead of screwing the motherboard to the backplate, Zac and I decided just to use double sided sticky pads. Before sticking the motherboard to the backplate, Zac thought we should remove the PS/2 port from the motherboard to give us a little more room to work with. The top of the NES case was pushing down on the PS/2 port slightly, so removing it entirely would remedy this small problem. Zac tried removing the port with his soldering tools… Believe it or not, this didn’t work and we wound up using a propane torch… yes, a torch… I was skeptical at first, but with Zac heating the opposite side of the board slightly while I pulled on the PS/2 port using vice grips it pulled right off of the PCB. Now we had to perform some modifications to the inside of the top of the NES case. We removed one screw post in the back, and 2 plastic lips that would provide us with more working room once removed.
  10. With the original design idea, we weren't too happy with the end result, so we cut out some of the plastic on the cartridge, and move the CF card and CF to SATA adapter down. (When I receive the new SSD, we'll replace the CF card and CF to SATA adapter with the 64GB SSD)
  11. Back plate screwed down to the 3 posts we had resized. The motherboard sits in the NES nice now. When coming up with ideas for the main storage device for the HS-NES, we knew we wanted to incorporate an original NES cartridge. Originally, we decided that a high performance 8GB Compact Flash card would be enough space for the operating system, HyperSpin, emulators, and all of the NES, Gameboy, and Gameboy Color games. We took an 8GB CF Card with a CF to SATA card reader, and made it fit into our Top Gun game cartridge. Below is our original concept. (I have since ordered a 64GB SSD, now that the price has dropped on SSDs DRAMATICALLY) (Below is the old, original concept, from 4 years ago)
  12. Now that the base is prepped for a back plate we had to figure out what we were going to use as a back plate. Zac knew where there was an old tupperware tote we could hack up. Corny started hacking away with the dremel.
  13. After removing the guts of the NES, we placed the motherboard on top of the mounting posts, in the base, just to size things up. We have to figure out the best plan of attack to maximize the usage of our limited space. Zac and I had to figure out what we were going to do to mount the motherboard inside the NES. We decided we would have to remove some posts using a dremel tool and shorten a couple to screw some sort of backplate to. The motherboard would then be attached to this backplate. The below picture shows the base of the NES after we removed and resized some posts. The red arrows show the posts that we removed completely. The blue arrows show the posts that we shortened to 5/8 of an inch.
  14. First off, Zac and I haven't been on the site in A LONG-ASS TIME! Looks great! Anyway, It looks like our HS-NES build thread went MIA in the website upgrades... so I figured I'd repost some stuff, and let you guys know that we're getting back into the HyperSpin game. Life's been crazy busy, and the both of us have gotten tied up in the whirlwind.. but we're now hoping to finally finish the HS-NES we started, and get back to the MK arcade project in the spring. That poor thing has been collecting dust in my garage Anyway, here's a little to get you up to speed on the HS-NES we started, and where we plan to go next with it. First thing’s first: We got a busted NES off of eBay along with a copy of TopGun. Parts List: – Intel NM10 Mini ITX Motherboard (dual core 1.8gHz Atom) – 4GB of Mushkin DDR3 1333 – nMediaPC Mini ITX DC to ATX power supply with DC Adapter – Wintec FileMate S Professional 8GB Compact Flash Card – SYBA SD-ADA40001 SATA II To Compact Flash Adapter – (2) NES RetroKits (one for each controller port) Software List: – HyperSpin Front End – Nestopia (for NES emulation) – VisualBoy Advance (for Gameboy / Gameboy Color emulation) We opened up the NES and tore it down to size up our computer components. Time to brainstorm our plan of attack!
  15. I know some of the pictures on this thread are broken. Zac is going to fix the issue. This project isn't dead, just neither one of us has had the time to work on it. Good news though, I now have a house w/ a heated garage So, come winter time, I'm hoping we'll have some updates on this or our HS-NES machine... This has been the never-ending arcade project lol...
  16. These are the replacements I ordered (in white)> http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1175
  17. Zac and I installed our ipac and wired up the buttons and joysticks yesterday. Here are some pictures of our progress. (we plan to neaten up the wires on final assebly) Here is a video of Zac testing out our control panel for the first time
  18. Thanks! Hopefully we'll get to do some more work this Saturday
  19. Hey fellow HyperSpinners! I bet you all thought Zac and I fell off of the face of the Earth huh? Well, here's a little update for you all. We picked up some caster wheels, tilted the arcade on it's back with an appliance dolly, and installed them. After inistalling the wheels, we tilted the arcade back up, then cut and installed the pegboard on the back. We're hoping to get into wiring up the control panel soon. In the spring we'll probably tackle the painting. We're also going to install some sort of door on the lower back of the arcade for access to the electronics. We're still alive, and we'll keep you posted as things progress! -Ray
  20. Barely. It probably has about a 1/4" gap on each side (if I had to guess). I don't know if you can really tell from this old picture:
  21. The width from the inside edges is 25". These are the plans that we started our project with > http://www.jakobud.com/plan.php?id=19 Once we had the two sides made and attached to the internal frame, we just started to "wing it". We followed the blueprints as close as we could for making the sides and initial width.
  22. Zac and I got together over the weekend for a few hours to work on our machine. Here's what we accomplished. We put Zac's router to some good use cutting the hole in our control panel plexi for our trackball. We did this by using the custom trackball plate as a guide for the router. After this was done, we cut the slot around the control panel top for our T-molding. We slightly off-centered the cut around the control panel top to cover up the added thickness of our control panel plexiglass. We didn't have too much time to work on it this weekend, unfortunately, but what we did get done came out great We're both looking forward to warm enough weather to paint this beast (yes, that was a Rangers Hockey game playing on the arcade while we were working on it.)
  23. HyperSpin's new site is nice Great job Anyway, now that HyperSpin-fe.com is running full speed here are the updates from last weekend: As Zac previously stated, we cut out 2 pieces of plexiglass for our marquee. I think we are going to use both pieces to "sandwich" our marquee artwork. The other thing we did was re-cut a new plexiglass top for our control panel. If you remember, previously, we broke off a corner on our first attempt. This was our 2nd attempt at it The 2nd time we made sure we were careful and took our time. We also counter drilled the holes we made for the screws, which will hold on the plexiglass top, so that they sit flush with the plexiglass. As you may recall from a previous post we installed T-nuts on the opposite side of the control panel top. Zac and I weren't happy with the way this made the control panel top sit on the control panel box, so we removed them all and counter drilled holes for them to sit in. They now sit flush with the bottom of the control panel. Zac screwed the plexiglass in place, we flipped over the control panel, clamped it down, and very carefully drilled the holes for the buttons and joysticks through the plexiglass from the back side. Here, as Zac previously posted, we made sure everything fit together well. Next we have to cut out a hole in the plexiglass for the trackball.
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