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Hyperspin video freeze and no sound


scooterg

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Scoured the forums and couldn't find a solution, hoping someone can help.

Running Windows 10 with GTX 1060 card and Intel core i7-6700 (MSI Trident machine with video and sound over HDMI through Nvidia card).  Launching Hyperspin is fine, everything works great.  When I turn off the monitor/sound connection, and then turn back on the system Hyperspin works fine (launches games) but there is no sound and videos freeze.  

I've tried:

1.) Running Hyperspin in compatibility mode of Windows 7 and Windows XP as Admin.

2.) Right clicking on a flash video in Internet Explorer and disabling Flash "hardware acceleration".

3.) Changed every power setting I can find in Windows and Nvidia's control panel to maximum performance, and "never turn off" settings for monitor and all hardware.

4.) Disabling realTek onboard audio in Windows Sound settings.

5.). Refocusing the Hyperspin window with Alt-Tab.

6.) Deleting flash video files (looks like transitions contains some under the "front end" folder under media, but as it came with a 1.33 Hyperspin download I assume it stays)

7.) Turned off anti virus to see if that would help.

The interesting thing is the only workaround I've found is that if I turn off the monitor/speakers when running an emulator and after turning I think back on exit back to Hyperspin the sound and video files work (as if leaving Hyperspin in the main window is the culprit).

It seems as though Hyperspin is having a hard time "reinitializing" the sound and video files when the monitor turns back on.

 

If this issue has already been addressed please let me know where, I tried my best to avoid an unnecessary post by scouring the forums and the internet at large.

 

Thanks again for any help.

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Ok, so I found a solution.

The problem is the sound will cut out and the video snaps freeze whenever I cut the connection (turn off my TV or amp).  The sound is being passed through via HDMI over Nvidia GTX 1060 card.

The workaround is if I connect a pair of headphones to the onboard RealTek sound then it maintains the audio connection and boom it works.  However I want sound to come via HDMI.  The solution was to keep the headphones plugged in but set the Nvidia sound output as default in Windows under Sound settings.

What happens when I turn it off is sound is passed to the headphones and therefore maintains a sound connection.

When I turn back on my TV/Amp the sound comes back to the HDMI output as it is the default.

Seems like this is a bug of Hyperspin in that it has to maintain a sound connection to work.  Maybe it's just my system but I thought I would post in case anyone else was having this problem.

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The two things that were throwing me off was that I thought the headphone bug had been fixed in the 1.4 release, and maybe even more odd was that when I plugged the HDMI into a monitor with built in speakers it was no problem (I can only guess that it was passing along an analog via HDMI whereas the TV and amp was a digital signal).

 

Best I can tell, Hyperspin still requires an analog audio connection at all times otherwise it freezes.

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  • 1 month later...

So in case it's of any help to someone I thought I would post the final solution to this issue.

While I thought it was a requirement for Hyperspin to have an analog audio connection at all times I was wrong.  It just has to maintain an audio connection at all times.

To explain, the cause of the issue was that my graphics card (see above for specs) outputs an HDMI signal.  One of the "helpful" aspects of HDMI is what's called "hot plug detection".  What that means is that HDMI has a protocol to detect when a monitor has been turned off and let the source electronics (my graphics card in this case) know.  The graphics card subsequently after enough time has passed kills the output (to save energy I guess).  What happened to me was Hyperspin would lose the audio connection and the videos would freeze.

The solution was to do one of two things:

1.) Put some electrical tape over pin 19 of the HDMI head as well documented here:

http://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=224196

2.) Buy a Monitor detect Killer: http://monitordetectkiller.com/

Initially I ordered a monitor detect killer but being an impatient person tried the electrical tape.  Both work very well although the Monitor Detect Killer is a more elegant solution.

At any rate a 3-4 month problem for me has finally been solved and hopefully this post will help someone else as I've been helped many times by this forum.

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