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About Snakerake

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    Birmingham, AL

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  1. Are you wanting to do like a bar top? All that would easily fit in an upright cab
  2. Thanks! Yeah, it was kind of a commission. I work in advertising and have made friends with photographer I've frequently used. She had just built a new studio, and wanted a "branded" multicade for clients and guests to entertain themselves with while waiting during shoots. So I built it for her in exchange for her shooting a few rounds of photos of my kids. She bought all the materials, but I guess we traded labor. She's respected enough to have photographed a portrait of the Dalai Lama, so I think I came out ahead in the deal And the pictures she has taken so far are amazing - and have bought me permission for several more projects from the wife! She just sent me a legit picture of the cabinet. I honestly wanted to keep it once I was done. I still have the template though, I maybe I'll build myself one one day.
  3. Are you having any trouble with Windows 10 and hyperspin? I got a cheapo HP on ebay that had a fresh install of Windows 10 that I'm about to configure for my next build and I'm worried about windows 10 and its lack of Directx 9 support.
  4. That looks really awesome! I love the cnc'd atari logo. Where did you acquire those usb ports and the power button on the back?
  5. Thanks! Sure After Designing the side profile in adobe illustrator I built the cab in sketchup to check the design and dimensions and make adjustments. Then I used my rough dimensions to build a foam mockup of tha cabinet to check the size and form factor, this turned out to be crucial since I realized my monitor/CP angle was too steep to be comfortable Then I tile printed my side panel design from illustrator and traced the pattern on a 1/2 sheet of plywood to cut out the template with a jig saw, and then cleaned up with files and sandpaper THen I used the template to cut out the walnut ply with my router I have a router table that this thing ususally sits in.. but I dropped it last time I was taking it out and broke a corner off the plate... but I learned that if I just keep the plate attached to the router, its like a base exteneder and it keep the router super steady,, no more wobble or tipping around outside corners! then I stained the panels with minwax special walnut... looks great on actual walnut and then started coating with layers and layers of polyurethane.... I should have used a grain filler, I didn't know how pourous walnut is. it took alot of poly and sanding to get the surfaces glassy smooth. during coats of poly I worked on the CP, I failed to take a pic of the monitor and control panel carriage alone , but you can see it in later pictures. Here is the plexi line bending jig. there is an aluminum channel recessed between two hinged pieces of plywood. In the channel a niChrome wire is stretched. You connect a power supply to the wire and it heats up... this heats the plexi in a straight line along the pivot axis of the hinged plywood pieces. Once the plexi heated (about 5 minutes) you bend up one side and it hits stops I made at the correct angle for the CP's design. In these pictures the power supply is resting in the bed where the plexi would be placed - then squared to the edge of the stops here is the plexi after bending and painting - protective cover still on then I assembled the CP and applied graphics to the sides - cutting the holes int he 1/4" plexi was a nightmare... go super slow or the plexi will heat up and melt... this caused me trouble on a few holes, afterwards I had to chisel off the melted and hardened bloom. then sand off the chisel marks, then polish with Novus. but you can't tell anything went wrong. then I assembled the cabinet with pocket hole screws ( predrilled before staining and poly) and then added the jamma multiboard, power supply, and 100 W mini amp for the cheapo car speakers.. btw the speaker system maybe cost me $20 and was much easier to deal with than the repurposed computer speakers I used on my last cab, definitely doing that again in the future. after assembly I parked it next to my Hyperspin cabinet for comparison thanks for looking!
  6. Hi All, I thought I would share latest build with you all. I built this for a friend's photography studio to entertain her waiting clients. The design was a combination of the lines of a Midway PacMan cabinet and the "80's Arcade Trunk" from and expensive leather shop: http://coolmaterial.com/home/pinel-and-pinel-arcade-80s-trunk/ – though mostly what I took from that was the way the casters are incorporated into the design... and the chrome t-molding. Then I pushed the control panel out more for easier 2 player play. She wanted something slick and classy for here studio space, but had a late 70's arcade vibe, So I went with walnut plywood for the sides, which was surprisingly cheaper than getting enough faux wood laminate to cover the sides. Brad Bowman (Lucian045 on this Forum) Printed and cut the art for me and walked me through the application. If you need side art, go to him, no question about it, he's great The hardest bit was the control panel monitor bezel combo... its a single sheet of 1/4" plexiglass that I heat bent with a shop made jig. then I masked off an area for the monitor to show through, and painted the backside white. Its looks really slick in person. I had originally intended to install Hyperspin and Mame for the cabinet, but in the end she didn't want to have to deal with a PC... so I installed a Game Elf Multi Game Jamma PCB... the roms are kinda crappy and there are so many bootleg games on there... but overall its a decently easy to use system, but the front end is really lame.
  7. Snakerake


  8. I've been meaning to Brag on Brad for a while. He helped me out on troubleshooting my application, and is generally a really good guy. In my case since I was recreating an existing cabinet, I could have purchased silkscreened art for the sides from Pheonix arcade. But I ended up going with Brad's shop because of his excellent service and guidance and I couldn't be happier. The quality and detail couldn't be better. People who see the art are wowed, and can't believe they are digital prints. Thank you for all your help Brad!
  9. Being American and cursed with non-metric measurements, I'm not sure of the conversion, but you'd probably want 3/4 inch for the sides.. thats roughly 18-19mm. Especially if you are doing t-molding on the edges. You'll need that for support and so your screws or nails are less likely to pop out the other side. Any panel thats not supporting something heavy could be 1/2" ( I think thats 12mm). MDF is pretty heavy, so using 12mm where you can will save you some weight. Which will make it much easier to maneuver during construction. But it could get confusing using different thicknesses. I did this on my Full size cab, but luckily, I was able to avoid any mistakes like that.
  10. Check out pleasuredome tracker. I'm pretty sure they have several sets on there. There is a hyperspin section that I believe has a pinball set. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. MDF is probably the cheapest you can get that will be acceptable. Chipboard or OSB, which is what most people associate with chipboard is not meant to be load bearing. Its meant to sheath homes in low stress applications. Screws will eventually rip out of it, and you wont have much luck with glue. There is a product I've used before that resembles a cross between OSB and MDF that you will see as the core of prefab shelving. I think it may be LDF technically, You could use it, but its very unforgiving when cutting shapes in. the edges can crumble easily if your tools aren't sharp or you drop a piece while assembling. Alot of old cabs were built from it, but in a factory environment. You could try a low grade pine plywood, but its gonna have a rough surface that I doubt you will be happy with the finished look after all the work you put into it. You are gonna spend alot of time to put the cabinet together, I wouldn't cheap out on the materials. Alternately, watch craigslist for a month or two, (use a saved search to email you results daily) you'll be surprised how many cheap cabinets you could come across on there that could be converted for cheaper than building.
  12. You inspired me! I just bought 2 on ebay, I still don't have the nerve to hack up mine from childhood, as it still works. I'll hack someone else's then!
  13. haha, wow, thank you for the very thorough follow up! maybe not so hard
  14. Very cool! I was thinking about cramming my RetroPi setup into my old NES, but haven't had the nerve to rip it apart yet.
  15. Has anyone around here tried a Hyperspin build run by a mini computer such as the one here: https://www.amazon.com/MINIX-NEO-Z83-4-Dual-Band-Technology/dp/B01M24W77N/ref=pd_sim_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TZ618GN2ZF1R8M3TXPZV I thought his might be a lower cost approach to building a bartop cab. I don't have spare PC components to build my own, and I used my only spare PC on my last cab. I've got a raspberryPi but I'm not a big fan of RetroPie, the version of Mame it runs is really old and it doesn't handle vector games well. Anyhow anyone with experience with one of these things?
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