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Everything posted by blacketj

  1. blacketj


  2. Thanks for linking my post. I think that the teensy is the way to go. When plugged into your computer I believe it shows up as Keyboard/Mouse/Joystick. So you can send any mix of those commands you want. I just stuck with keyboard presses for my project. The teensy is Arduino compatible, so you can and probably should do all your programming in the Arduino environment. I don't know you coding level, but Arduino is one of the easiest ways to get into micro controller programming. And there are lots of examples and free code out there. There are two ways I would recommend when trying to poll the buttons for presses. Neither require trying to cut into traces for a place to solder. 1. The cleanest way requiring the least amount of wires and extra soldering, is to use the controllers built in shift register. De-solder the original wires coming from the controller's plug to the PCB. You can now use those connections to wire the shift register directly to the teensy. It will be "parallel in serial out" shift register connected to all the buttons. Not exactly sure what the pin out is, but hopefully you can figure it out with some googling. There should be plenty of arduino shift register tutorials out there. 2. Less coding, but more wiring/soldering. Carefully remove the shift register off the controller PCB. Now you have a nice solder pad leading directly to each button, and no cutting into traces needed. Wire from those pads to the teensy. Now you have a very simple loop of code to write where you just check the button and send the corresponding key press. But removing a surface mount chip can be a tricky operation depending on what tools you have. The easiest ways is with a hot air tool, but not everybody has one of those. Another method is to get a product called ChipQuik. I haven't used it myself, but there are tutorials on youtube and it looks pretty easy. Another option is to use a dremmel tool and carefully cut the body of the chip off of the feet. Now that all the feet are separated you can remove one at a time with a soldering iron and tweezers. I would skip the teensy SD adapter simply because it is too slow. It will not be a very good HyperSpin experience at all.
  3. can't tell you for sure, but most standard LEDs draw about 20mA
  4. This looks really cool, and I really hope you get your project funded. I'm just curious about your button layout. With all the buttons on the top and more on the sides, there are obviously more than 26 buttons on your control panel. Would you mind describing how your CP buttons are configured to the Howler button ports? I'm curious which buttons you decided to map as duplicates.
  5. Yeah, I would guess that most monitors would use that type of button on their I/O panel. It is technically call a "Normally Open Momentary Switch". It it extremely common in consumer electronics.
  6. To wire an arcade switch to your monitor's on button is really simple. You simply connect the two wires from the arcade button to a diagonal set of pins on that button. So if you connect one wire from the arcade button to the top left pin, then you connect the other wire to the bottom right. There is nothing dangerous for your monitor for this minor hack. As far as the monitor is concerned it is still just sensing a button press, you just now have two buttons that serve the same function. You can test this functionality by simply shorting the two pins with a length of wire, it should be the same as if you pushed the button. Turning on a computer is also very simple. There is a two pin connection on your motherboard that is ready for a power button that is usually installed on the computer case. If you are taking apart an existing computer you should be able to trace the wires back to the motherboard. If you have a new motherboard, then check the manual for the I/O headers. The type of button used on a computer case is electrically identical to an arcade button. But I don't think you want to simply connect both of these to a single arcade button. That would probably have some weird behavior. And could possible damage something. what most poeple here seem to recomend is getting some kind of load sensing power strip to put in your cab. Plug the computer into the load sensing outlet, and the monitor and any other periphrials into the other outlets. That way the monitor will turn on and off automatically with the computer. Then just use the arcade button technique from above to turn the computer on.
  7. This sounds like a cool idea, but I'm a little dubious about the actual results. You are still going to have a lot of editing to do unless you just want shots of the title screen. And not all games are going to go into game play footage on their own when left idle.
  8. This is awesome. I love the mini-pins. I'm really curious what technique(s) you used to pull of that rounded front edge. Looks really nice. And it is a good safety feature, because this is for the kids...
  9. I'd probably build a Donkey Kong cab. I'm too young to have any real nostalgia for it (I'm not sure if I've ever actually seen a real DK cab in person), but for the last couple years it has been getting the most play out of any MAME game in my setup. The cab obviously has a classic look and the original art is fun. Another one I would have a lot of fun with would be a Super Off Road cab, that is one I do have the nostalgia bug for. With all three wheels it is a lot of fun with friends. But I'd have a hard time leaving that as just a solo game machine. With the high cost of all the components and the bulk of the cab, I'd want to have as many compatible games on there as possible.
  10. Take my advice with a grain of salt because I haven't actually used acrylic in this particular application. But I have worked with it before and it is pretty stiff. 1/8" is probably fine if it is supported on all four edges. If you want to play it safe, then there is no way that 1/4" is going to bend at those dimensions.
  11. very cool. Can you share some info about what display you are using?
  12. I would also describe myself as a Game Boy fanatic. Thanks for sharing this list.
  13. I can explain the three terminals. If you look closely at the switch the terminals are probably labeled. Probably something like NO, NC, GRD. These stand for Normaly Open, Normaly Closed, and Ground. In your application (and most applications) you are really only interested in Normally Open and Ground. What Normally open means means is that when you aren't pushing the button the circuit is open, meaning that there is no connection between that terminal and the ground terminal. When you push the button you are closing the circuit, making a connection between that terminal and the ground terminal. The normally closed terminal works the exact opposite. It is always connected to the ground terminal until you push the button, and then the connection is broken. This is not what you want. So only use the Normally Open terminal. What gazsnk showed will definitely work if you cut off the other switch, but all you really need is a two wire connector with the proper connection for the mother board. It should be a 2-pin 0.1" pitch female connector like the following https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8672 Hope that helps.
  14. The !A, !B, 2A, 2B are just more buttons you can hook up. I'm using them as my pinball buttons on the sides of my control panel. And I agree with gazsnk. You just need to hook a button up the the motherboards 'Power' headers to turn the computer on. Once the computer is running, Windows has a setting where pushing that same button again will shutdown the computer. And/Or you can set up Hyperspin to shut down the system when you exit.
  15. First you have to figure out what lights you are going to use and what voltage they run at. You should be able to grab 12v (yellow wire), 5v (red) or 3.3v (orange) off of your computer's power supply. So if you get LED packages designed for any of those voltages, you just need to wire them directly to the correct voltage wire and ground (black) and it should work. And the lights will only be on when the system is on. This is what the wiring should look like: So all the positive leads from the LEDs are connected to the power rail, and all negative leads to the ground rail. This is called wiring in parallel. Wired this way you should be able to have as many LEDs as you'll ever want running off one power connection with no problems. And if any of the LEDs burn out or get a loose connection, it won't affect the operation of the the others. To keep it clean I would wire it all to a molex connector that I pulled off an old case fan or bought online somewhere. That way it would be easy to just unplug all the lights if you wanted to change to power supply.
  16. Better than monkeying with the command line, you can set up automatic profile switching to load your profile when your game/app has focus (or is opened). So you can have multiple applications open and it will automatically switch profiles as you move between applications. I have a HyperSpin profile and a few profiles for the emulators that need them and Xpadder just switches to the emulators profile when it is opened, and then switches back to HyperSpin's when the emulator is closed. Kind of lame he doesn't do a trial any more, but I couldn't recommend the software any higher. It is great with tons of options. Works with virtually any controller. And the software is still actively supported, with new features always in the works.
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