Les73gtx

. Thanks .... only took 18 months for some support. I guess it would be better if the support topic was closed or perhaps some kind of update on a monthly basis at the very least. That way people that are new to the VP scene will not get frustrated and waste a bunch of time trying to get free software working. Free is not free if you spend an excessive amount of valuable time to get it working only to find out that your hardware and/or OS are not supported. I am not intending to make anyone mad here, just stating facts and my opinion from my experiences and observations here on this forum.

PinballX

. . I never did solve it and I know why it happens ... the frontend is doing what it needs to trying grab focus. What I did do was find the .wav file and change it to something less annoying, and low volume. Shortly after this issue I abandoned the HP frontend all together in favor of one that is supported and updated regularly. That was over a year ago and I can say I am completely satisfied with the new frontend

A month ago I sent a PM and a email to the address provided in post #121. I also visited the website and sent a email there also. I never recieved a response so someone else got my money ... thanks for letting me know how your business is run. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

Your da man! Thank you Maxx. Very very helpful. Latching relay ... not sure why I thought it was but that was stuck in my head last night. Thank you for your time, Maxxsinner Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

My next question is one that is basic I think but it is taxing my brain late at night ... on the picture below ... the relay, can you tell me if I am correct in what I am reading? Going to the solenoid pictured below .... What is messing me brain up is that the LED Wiz likes to switch the ground side, but does that matter with the relay involved? the wiring will go; LED Wiz >>to fuse >> to relay then relay to solenoid ... is this correct? oh yeah ... also this seems to be a latching relay? There is a diode built in from what I am looking at, do I need another on the solenoid itself?

The pin locations are hard to see but using the ohm meter I can see what pins are connected when the power button is pushed. so I believe that it is just a short to ground, correct?

Well I can certainly understand that as I have had mine out and back in too many times for sure. Unfortunately both TV's go into a standby state when plugged in no matter the state when unplugged. Both TV's use similar control manual boards and using the ohm meter the switches are momentary only just like the PC switch pictured, only on a smaller scale. So using the wire ribbon harness can I wire them to that switch pictured or will there be a feedback issue? I will link the pictures in a minute Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

Mikekim ... thank you I think that is the way I want to go also. That will work for the second power supply for the toys and LEDs. The problem with the PF and the BG screens is that I have to either push the power button physically or use the remotes to bring them out of standby as they do not detect input signal to power on. So I need still address the first question with the switch. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

Hi Guys, I love the guide and it has given me a lot to look at and learn from … thank you. I have one comment, it seems to me that this guide and most of the posts are all about going “BIG” or not doing anything, I think there is something to be said about doing only what is needed to get a cabinet built and working and then down the road adding toys along the way. Looking at it from very limited funds aspect I am looking to do what I can with what I have on hand or can get very inexpensive. So with that said I have a couple questions to ask the experts here. On this PC reset / power switch that I took from an old PC I really need it to power on my T.V. also. If I can do it all from one switch (PC>>46”>>32”) then cool, if not I have 2 of these that I will use one for the PC and the other for the T.V.’s …. Using my meter I have found out that pin 1 is NO and pin 2 is Com/GND and pin 3 is NC, now it is the same on the other side so 4 is NO, 5 is GND, 6 is NC. Can I put the 2 TV’s on 4 and 5 and put the PC on 1 and 2? The numbers are for reference only as the switch is not marked. Leading into the next question; … how do I make my second PC Power supply turn on from the primary PC power supply? I know about the green to black jumper and I think I have read someplace that it can see up to a +5v signal, right? So can I take a jumper from the +5v of the PC power supply and attach it to the green lead of the second supply or would I need to attach the green from the second supply to the ground of the primary PC Supply? I am thinking that the latter is correct. I’m just trying to eliminate as many turn on issues for the family as possible. The next approach would be to work with the main power into the cabinet. Right now I have a good quality power strip surge protector that stays on all the time (when plugged in) inside the cabinet. The second power supply is always on this way because of the green to black jumper. It is running fans, led’s, button lights, RGB light strip, toys, and the DMD monitor. To totally power down I have to unplug it now, not a real bad thing but a hassle none the less. OK that is all I have for now, I have a question on my choice of solenoid and relay but I will save that for the next round when I am closer to getting that wired in …. I made a little progress today as the wife took the kids to Grammy’s house for most of the day. Here is a link to the Dropbox folder that upload pictures as I take them from my phone. On track for a thanksgiving day reveal to the extended family ... Enjoy https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qyyzgwew645n89p/9D_xD-yvKm

I would like a couple things fixed please ... Only using VP so first is the multiple instruction card error ... I found a post that says it doesn't work right now. And the annoying multiple flipper or clicking sound when exiting from VP table back to HP. I thought I read how to fix that or turn it off but now I can't find it. Sorry I would love to see the focus issue fixed that still exists randomly when going back to HP from VP. It requires a mouse click to fix it but no mouse in my cab and the wife and kids need it to be as error free as possible. I don't feel that running a script that clicks the mouse during my game is a fix, sorry. Thanks for your time and hard work Cheers Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk