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About maxxsinner

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  • Birthday 01/04/1970


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  1. What a fantastic update Josh and to hear what has been going on behind the scenes is awesome! Looks like 2016 is going to be a big year.
  2. As I have said earlier, the plans are not mine to share. Arcadeworx here in Australia designed and cut the MDF for me so there would certainly be intellectual property rights covering the design. Troy from AW has been nothing more than awesome so I will not under mine his business.
  3. Love seeing more original cab designs. Nice work!
  4. Waaaaaaaaay over due for an update... So side panel for twin 2 - And Twin 1 still to come...
  5. But as I have been called out for an update I better give one. One of the things that bugged me was the trackball backlight was not powerful enough. And there is a catch 22 with how powerful the LED can be as to not overheat the trackball as well as how much the Pacled can drive. So I made a board to be able to do the job - and powered a Cree RGB LED with this board (and left a few spares cause I got issues....) Really happy with the results. Matches the colour output to the buttons. Will post a vid soon.
  6. Cheers Burts. Working on the software side at the moment as well as about a million other projects as you know. I'm sure everyone is curious to see how it's twin is going though?
  7. Sprecher & Schuh CA7-9E-M 24 For contactor models that are confirmed to work well - http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?18867-All-about-contactors
  8. If you need a hand with the circuit to do the timing, just let me know and I will see what I can do.
  9. Cheers HA. @Jeremy0203 I was only going off this - Sounds to me like he is looking for a way to lock the machine out without coins. Considering there is basically no other option....
  10. If you go down the timer path which would be the easiest option, I would just feed the common of the Ipac or whatever through a time controlled relay. Coins buy your time on Hyperspin and games and when your time runs out, all controls stop working. Would be pretty easy to do with something like an Arduino or similar. Independent of the software that way too.
  11. Direct Output framework is definitely worth the upgrade reko. Zero stutter. Ever. http://vpuniverse.com/forums/ is the place to go for the config tool and discssions on DOF.
  12. Hey Keithpaw. The drawing shows that you need both 12v and 5v connected to the board. You can wire together you flipper buttons no problems at all. But you will probably want to leave your start/exit buttons separate as the software will make them come on when the table is active. Hope that makes sense.
  13. Looking at your pics, the wiring looks perfect. The wire to the voltage banks on the LEDwiz is not needed in your case as it's used when you are connecting relays or solenoids to the outputs (stops the back emf from doing damage) but leaving it connected certainly wont do any harm. I haven't used the GP version of LEDwiz before, but the inputs seem very straight forward : Ground common and a switch wire back to each input as you have done.
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