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About dreamkey56

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  • Birthday 02/10/1976


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  1. Hello guys. I built a widenody cab, and use the standard Siemens contactors usually used. 24 Volts. They sound fine, as long my cab is open. But as soon as I put the glas on, and close all doors, the flipper contacors sound and feel very weak I did this mod with the steel washer in the contactors, but still not loud enough. Is there a way to increase the sound, and the dorce feedback of the contactors? Or is there a better way, instead of these Siemens ones? Thanks, HP
  2. @sparky: the pincontrol1 and another board are Arduino solutions, that are the germans working on at the moment. It is a similar product with plunger support, but has some additional features, like LED controlling. Quite new, and they are still working and improving it. plunger is realized over a linear Pot, i think. As I have seen, it can be ordered in a German virtua Pin shop.
  3. I had Pauls plunger kit before. Paul was quite helpful to me finally, but seems like my mainboard had problems with the v2 plunger kit. The V1 kit before worked. (had also problems with russels pindmd with my mainboard before, but this was solved with a separate USB card). Pauls Kit doesnt feel more mechanically worse, in my opinion. Think, it is also a good product. But didnt work for me 100%. now, I go with Zebs new Kit. Plunger worked plug and play without problems, except the nudging function and the 4 additional Joystick buttons. Need some adjustments, but it will work finally, i am sure. Very good support from zeb, as before at my booster board. Thank you, Zeb!
  4. Hi again, I tried another old VP configuration, that I saved on another hard disc. Still the same Problem, when I start VP here. Only wanted to check, if there is something wrong with configuartion. For me it seems, that the board has a Hardware Problem
  5. Hi. Swapping USB cable isnt possible, As it is glued in in the box. Not a separate cable. Is there a possibility, that this is a software problem, or is it hardware related, so I have to send it back? Hp
  6. Hi. I tried different sockets, USB2.0, USB3.0, Front, Back, and on the separate RocketfishUSB Card, where my pindmd is connected. Everywhere the same. I will also try a powered USB Hub, but I am afraid, this is not the problem, because it worked for many weeks without this problem..
  7. Hello. I have a problem with my motion plunger kit: It disconnects automatically after a few seconds ( sometimes more, sometimes less), When I am playing a table. First I thought, it is related to my opto board, because happened the first time, after i installed my opto board. But now I putted my opto board away, and have still the same problem: motion plunger board disconnects automatically. I have to plug the USB port out and in, and then it works again. For a short while. Can anybody help me? Any idea? Thx, Hp
  8. Hi. Tested again. Doesnt matter, which opto board i connect - left or right. Strange, that it worked some days ago for a longer time. LEDs ar correct. Dont know, what else I can do Will disconnect and take away my opto boards. And later, I will change this stupid motion thing. And use IPAC. Causes too much troubles.. HP
  9. Thanks for this, mjrhp. But at the moment, i'll keep it, like it is. This extra 'BAMM' from the knocker at the startup sounds nice to me I think, I will also wire a cree flasher LED parallel, to get a strobe effect also. Without the monoflop board, could be also a simple indicator, if the coli got stock. If you have a very bright flasher connected, and it will stay on, you will know, you have to hurry up I will check the current and a matching slow blow fuse later. I have checked, what temperature the coil gets after a few seconds beeing triggered. But after a few seconds, it isnt getting really mich warmer, because of its mass, I think. So, I guess, a very slow fuse will work well, If I can find one. The next step is now, to get my opto circuits for the flippers working But, here I ask for help in another thread..... HP
  10. Still a condensator missing... But I got a set to build a monoflop board. Time is adjustable at screws, works very well. It is a board with two Monoflop circuits, so I have one left, I have another toy that has to be securely switched over a short time. One funny Thing: At starting Computer, the knocker knocks once. I will add a slow-blow fuse also, to be 100% sure, coil will never be damaged anymore.
  11. Hi. 2.2K Resistor also didnt help. As I see, I connected everything correct. Also the two different gnd. What i have found: when I only connect opto board for left flipper, seems like it is working. Didnt test an hour, but a few minutes, and it didnt disconnect. I will check, if it is the same, if I only connect right side. Hopefully the single right side will disconnect. In that case, there should be a failure on my right board. But its too late tonight. Will write again, after I tested. HP
  12. Hello Zeb, first I wanna thank you again for helping me! Then: I checked the cabling, and it seems ok to me: The single black gnd cable of my motion board goes to pin 5 of the 4N35. And this gnd is also connected to the switches of my buttons of my cab. The common gnd of my cab goes to pin 2, according your drawing. The other connections look like in your drawing. Everything works a few seconds, also the LEDs on my little opto pcb are flashing, when I trigger the flipper buttons, but then, the motion board disconnects automatically. What causes the motion board to disconnect? How can the board "recognize" unusual things, to disconnect? Is there a overload protection inbuilt, or how is it doing? I am not the biggest fan of this board, as it isnt working, as I expected. Also the nudge function doesnt work correctly. And if I use this joystickcenter .exe it causes more troubles again: when I start the table, it is nudging and tilting immediately. No playing possible. But thats the next thing to solve.. Now, I am searching for the problem at my opto boards. 24Volts is ok for it, isnt it? 1000Ohms for the resistor is also ok? What is the data of the needed LEDs? Anything special? What I am wondering, if I look at the opto board from wolfsoft: why are there so many cables? The board is for both flippers, and it seems, that there is a cab cable for each 4N35, and there is a motion board gnd cable also for each 4N35. Why arent they connected directly on the board? Why are these cables separate? As I have one pcb board for both flipper sides, I only have one gnd cable, and one cab gnd cable. Because they are connected to the both 4N35 at my pcb board. Did I missunderstood something? Please help... Thanks a lot! HP
  13. Hellooo. New electronic part in my cab - a new problem in my cab I made a small pcb according Wolfs opto circuit board. Took the drawing from Zebs homepage (Thank you again, Zeb!). I wired it, and tested it. Works in hyperpin, and at the game well, but only a few seconds: After, no function anymore of the flipper buttons, or any other button on my cab. So, the motion plunger board stopped working. If I check the function in windows, it is not working anymore. If I disconnect and connect again the USB connector, it will be recognized, and is working again. If I start Visual Pinball, or hyperpin, it is working again for a few seconds, and stops again. Any idea? Sounds strange.... HP
  14. Was thinking about the same, as Russ wrote. Funny. But in case of failure, the machine gun action will damage the cab, if you have strong knockers But the hardware would be quite simple and easy to assemble. I am still waiting for the knocker. After, i will check current .consumption at 24V But what is wrong with the solution mjrhp did? The monoflop has an "adjustable" timer, so it should work. Any doubts? The 2-relay solution Zeb showed us looks also fine to me. More "mechanical", so easier for me to understand Seems, there is a solution for the problem I had. My new knocker is on the way... But next problem is waiting. Optocoupler board for the flippers I´ll post a new thread.. HP
  15. Hi. Didnt get the Elkos yesterday, so I have to order 3 Elkos, with 1000times higher shipping costs than the price of the Eloks *grrr*. Also bought a assembled Monoflop board with 2 circuits, but a switch as starting input is mounted, so I have to check, how it is working, before I can connect it to the Ledwiz output. Or maybe I put another relay on, instead of the switch. Trigfered by the ledwiz. Lets see. But first, I want to gry it with the circuit mjrhp has attached. Mjrhp, I cant say exactly, how long it took, until the smoke appeared, but I think, it was a lot of time. I think, I got a problem, when exiting a table, because when playing this table, the knocker worked. After exiting, I did some software work. I guess, after 1 minute I smelled the smoke, but was thinking, my wife was ironing in theother room And after further half a minute, I heared a silent *ping*. The noise, of the plunger, that was falliing down, because of the broken coil. And then I recognized. When I looked inside the cab, there was a lot smoke. I guess, the coil will survive many seconds, without any damage. About the current I am confused. I switch the coil by a 16A relay, to be sure, because I have read in another forum, that "the knocker coil will eat small relays up to 8A for breakfast". I know, there are many different knockers on the market, so I think, the current consumption of the triggered coil should be measured directly? I will do, and attach also a very slow fuse near this value, if I can find. Together with this monoflop switch, there should be no problem, I think? The software solution is difficult for me, as I am not very good in these scripting. And I couldnt find mamemans script here at the forum.. Wondering, that there are not more guys with this problem. BecauseI also have sometimes a problem with thesolenoids, because sometimes I also hear this pock* later, after exiting the table. The sound, when the solenoid releases the plunger. No problem here, because of low power consumption. But the same symptom. HP
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