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About p0giewan

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  • Birthday 11/04/1975

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  1. Sloooooowwww progress over the last few weeks. Back in school again on top of work so my time for pinball related stuff has been limited but I've been squeezing in the odd hour here and there though Plunger finally arrived from Virtuapin. Got that installed but need to mess with the tilt sensitivity setting a little. Cranked all the way up the shaker motor sets of the tilt but anything under that not seeing much effect when I nudge the table. Do I need to change something in the table scripts themselves? Can anyone that has one of these let me know what sensitivity setting they are using? Default in VP seems to be 400 with a max of 1000. Analog plunger is working nicely. The biggest and most time consuming headache came when I started messing with the LED's which led to a bunch of troubleshooting which Zeb helped out a bunch on. I had LEDWiz outputs not working, power failing on the toys etc. Most of the issues are resolved. A bad ribbon cable was causing some of the output failures. I had some ouputs (flipper contactors) going out intermittently which was resolved by switching to DOF which works a treat. My only remaining issue is power. Once I plug in the lights depending on the table I lose all power to the toys within a couple minutes. Another couple e-mails back and forth with Zeb and he says power supply is overloading and cutting out. I was thinking a 650w would be overkill when I bought it but apparently not. Should have a Thermaltake 850W arriving tomorrow so I'll swap them out and see if this resolves the problem. I also figured out I do NOT like soldering. Happy that is done and out of the way. LED's are also installed in the top of the backbox. Having to rethink where I'm going to put the LED strobes as they will not fit on my LED bar once it was trimmed down. Keep going back and forth on underside of cabinet or top of the backbox. Upcoming to do list: Figure out tilt sensitivity settings Swap out power supplies... then either rejoice or cry depending on the outcome of that. Install replay knocker... need to figure out where. Its not going to fit in the backbox. Do I need to install this in a specific orientation? It seems like it should be installed so it shoots upwards. Install strobes. Once this is all done I'll move onto bezel, side rails and lockdown bar. Based off the Timeshock! update from this morning no idea when I'll be getting the artwork so not too much in a hurry to get the aesthetic stuff done.
  2. Good luck I started school again on top of work so my project has slowed down somewhat... need more hours in the day.. or more time off
  3. I'm running: 8 x Contactors 5 x RGB Strip Strobes Shaker / Gear Motor from Zeb.. which is awesome btw 4 x Front of cab lights Replay Knocker All from zebs virtual output kit which pretty much fills it up as far as the LEDWiz goes. I think there is one output free. I bought the clear flipper buttons with RGB lights also but for the sake of adding another LEDWiz I think I'm just going to hook up them up so they just light up. Not gonna see them when you're playing anyway.
  4. Speaker Panel is two main parts. Unfinished speaker/dmd panel from Virtuapin: (LINK) $29.95 This is the part that is screwed to the actual backbox and holding the speakers. I got the Williams panel from Pinball Life (LINK) Panel was like $65 with another $10 for the DMD glass. Speaker mesh I had already from Virtuapin and I just cut it to size. Front panel is held in place with screws coming through the Virtuapin panel on the back which hold the front panel on and also hold the DMD in place. I think this was a lucky find though. I've only seen the standalone panel itself once and I grabbed it. They only seem to have the $200 full assembly in stock most of the time. Probably about $120 for the whole thing all in and I'm really pleased with how it turned out. Will look better when I get the damn back panel installed and a bezel on the front
  5. Another problem solved Was getting a bunch of stutter on some tables with the LEDWIZ, with Batman probably being the worst offender to the point of being unplayable. Only happens when I run directly from VP.. Running through Hyperpin resolves this and everything running silky smooth.
  6. Need to check this out tonight. Was pretty much going through the same process setting things up yesterday and noticed some stuttering. You may have saved me some research
  7. Made some headway this weekend Backbox is *almost* together. Need to cut out a couple holes in the rear panel for fans (returned the 200mm I originally had planned for this and got a couple of 140mm). In the "planning" stage for this I imagined way more room in a cabinet than there actually is. Finished wiring up Zebs Booster Boards for power and got the Contacters, Shaker/Gear Motor and some of the front panel lights working with the LEDWiz. For the speaker/DMD panel: The unfinished virtuapin panel is screwed into the backbox with the speakers mounted. The Williams Panel was mounted from the back to this via some size 6 machine screws going through the wooden virtuapin panel, then the DMD and into the mounting posts on the Williams panel itself. DMD is sandwiched between the two. Really pleased with the way that came together. Backbox monitor I just mounted on a cheap low profile TV mount. Next on my list is to figure out bezel for around the main playfield which will snowball into the LED/Strobe panel. The two are going to have to go pretty much hand in hand. Playfield glass also showed up yesterday but I'm nowhere near ready for that yet. Spent a bunch of yesterday configuring the software side. Got Hyperpin installed and working with around 10 tables. Messed around with the Direct B2S backglasses and got those working. Really happy with the results although a few tables seem to be very jerky/laggy with the LEDWiz enabled. I don't know if there is a workaround or way to optimize this or if I am missing something somewhere. Haven't really delved too far into that yet. Need to also figure out how to get rid of the "virtual" DMD which shows on screen as everything is displayed on my actual DMD. This is only an issue on the tables with no Direct B2S backglasses as you can remove it as an option on the backglass.
  8. Just checking in on progress Mine is looking pretty messy too.. sooo many wires ... Haven't gotten round to testing any of the toys yet. This weekend maybe. Looking good
  9. Been a busy couple weeks but still making some progress here and there. Pretty much have the bottom of my cab "locked down" as to where everything is going to go and wiring has commenced As far as resolutions to prior problems.. received my USB 2.0 PCIe card and installed that last weekend. The ports on this ARE powering off so that is one issue down. Ordered and received a Williams Speaker/DMD panel from (here) Managed to grab a standalone panel and DMD clear cover for $65 and $10 respectively rather than the $200 for the whole assembly. Have a pretty good idea how that is going to fit together with my virtuapin panel so I will be tackling the backbox this weekend. Also ordered the playfield glass from (here). Have the next four days off work (yay) so hoping to make some more progress over the weekend. Kinda dreading doing the LED's as I haven't really soldered before. Next challenges are going to be how to bezel around the main screen to fill in the gaps and setting up the ledwiz which I also have not dealt with before. Also need to measure up and make the flasher panel for above the playfield screen.
  10. I started upgrading my cab a little a few weeks ago and went with the same ArcadeVGA card. My biggest pain with this card and Windows 7 was getting video's to work in the later versions of Hyperspin. Solution for that is here. One of the big reasons I went with this card was for the same "out of sync" problems as I have the Makvision 27/29 and it actually resolved the problem (that and it claims to run SF4 @ 60fps). No longer get out of sync on startup although I am not running an ASUS board. As far as "newer" games go I've run SF4 Arcade Edition, Ultimate Mortal Kombat, Sine Mora and Ikaruga without any issues. Guess it all depends what you're trying to play and what resolution you're trying to play it at.
  11. DMD working. Cab legs on and majority of the base painted. Cooling fans installed. Coin door is just sitting in its hole for now as its a nice snug fit and also one less thing off the pile of parts. I'll wait until I get artwork sorted out until I screw that in properly. I'm using NZXT cooling fans. (Buy Link) The 200mm have a low amazon review because they use a slightly different hole pattern which doesn't fit in a bunch of computer cases. I picked these because I have four of the 140mm fans in my Mame Cab and they keep it like a refrigerator and are very quiet. Using 2 x 200mm on the back and 2 x 140mm in the front as intakes on the bottom. Also picked up a USB 2.0 card which is actually quite a chore to find in PCIe and actually kinda pricey (Everything is USB 3.0) (Buy Link) My motherboard's USB ports have a permanent power on "feature" which I can't turn off which doesn't look like a good situation for the PinDMD2 board. Figured I'd play it safe and its cheaper than replacing the PinDMD2. Also gives me some more 2.0 ports.
  12. I'm at the stage now of starting on the backbox so I don't have much of anything figured out. Realizing there is a little more to it than adding a panel. I have 5.25" speakers so I don't know if they will fit or how they would translate to a Williams WPC panel.
  13. I edited the post. It was a firmware issue with the DMD2 which sorted the glitches. I'm assuming that utility will resolve the brightness issue. I'll see how much time I get to mess with it at the weekend if any. This sucker also gave me a new respect for electricity last night when I plugged it back in and my finger brushed over one of the rear components when I was setting it down
  14. Hit my first major speedbump. Unpacked the DMD last night, got my PinDMD2 installed and the DMD is defective. Runs great aside from the top row of pixels and some really dull pixels around the left hand side. One of those things where if I had picked it up used and cheap I could "probably" live with it.. but in a brand new unit it isn't acceptable. *Edit.. I'm a moron. All it needed was the PinDMD2 firmware update. There is one specifically for this particular DMD to resolve issues" On the plus side, finished painting the base and got the legs on. Started wiring buttons and I should have one of Zebs virtual output kits showing up in the next couple of days. My TV power issue is also resolved now that I had more time to mess with it. If it is powered on and off by the power strip it will actually power on automatically. Thinking about an alternative speaker/DMD panel. I got one as part of my cabinet kit and it is really thin MDF which is already cracking a little where some of the threaded inserts are embedded. Pre-drilled holes also go all the way through so looking at it from the front it ain't gonna look too pretty. The new Williams assemblies look nice but they're also $200 for the complete thing.
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