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frodus

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About frodus

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  • Birthday 03/20/1980
  1. Finished the cabinet up today. Still need a few things before its 100%, but its working! Need to wire the LEDs on the buttons to the LEDwiz, along with the Knocker. No contactors for now. I ended up running Pinballx, Nukelauncher and Pinball FX2 on Steam. Works pretty well. I'll be adding VP later, this was just to get it going quickly.
  2. Check here.... Someone is getting rid of a lot for cheaper than new. http://vpforums.org/index.php?/topic/29559-FOR-SALE:-Bunch-of-Pincab-parts---VirtuaPin-Plunger-kit,-contactors,-Pindmd2,-computer-parts-and-more
  3. So the power strip doesn't turn things off anymore. I don't know why.... But it worked the first couple times. I think my computer either uses too much in standby or it doesn't use a lot (I don't have a ton hooked up o the power supply ). I'll look at it again tomorrow. Kinda bummed. I had some issues with setting up fx2 but ended up getting the tables all straight. The only issue right now is that fx2 doesn't completely exit when I hit the exit button, and my plunger is set up weird. The plunger goes from like 0 to max.... But X360ce thinks that the stick is all the way up, and when you pull back it goes all the way down. It needs to show as only half the stick. It works... But it goes haywire on menu screens. Will take a video when I can. Tomorrow is busy and I travel next week for work.
  4. Another update: Per lbeckm3's recommendation, I bought a smart surge protector. Once the computer turns on, the plug senses the current flowing and turns on 5 other outlets. Now i just have one button at the bottom of my cab to turn the computer on and off, and when it goes on, the rest turns on. For software, I'm going with Pinballx and Nukelauncher for Pinball FX2. I will add Visual Pinball and maybe Future Pinball later, but this seemed pretty easy to set up. I'll have to use x360ce to emulate an xbox360 controller with my virtuapin plunger V2 (gives me analog nudge and plunger ability). I got a handful of tables from the steam store (halloween sale on a couple tables too). Got the DMD working in FX2, and the backglass images with pinballx and the FX2 media pack. Wired my buttons up and am mapping those today.
  5. Thanks for the feedback! 1) It shows up as a gamepad/joystick. You can use xpadder to remap to a keyboard press instead. 2) I don't know. I just kind of picked something and went with it. Some people like more gap in the back and less in front. I can change the side rail pretty easily to allow me to do that later. 3) I am not using contactors, but thats the idea. They are basically a large relay that when it closes, it makes a knock.
  6. That's a great idea! Would save me a huge contactor I've got and simplify wiring quite a bit. Thanks for that tip!
  7. I've gotten pretty far along the last couple weeks. I've done the following: - Mounted BG monitor into the backbox - Mounted speakers and DMD into the speaker panel and backbox - Installed 8" subwoofer - Mounted side rails for the PF/Mounting board to rest on - Mounted 4 buttons (Start/Coin/Instructions/Exit) as well as the two flippers (Might do the Magnasave's later, we'll see) - Mounted the VirtuaPin digital Plunger kit V2 - Mounted the computer, LEDWiz, VP Plunger board, power supplies, Lepai amp and plug strip to my base-board Still need to: - Get glass/Lexan cut for the backglass - Install some fans (one 140mm fan for bottom, and two 100mm fans in the backbox) - Wire the buttons, plunger, knocker and coin mechanism - Configure the Pinballx, Visual Pinball and Pinball FX2 along with xpadder (so I can use the service buttons to raise/lower volume) - Wire a relay off the computer PSU that will connect power to the power strip and turn the cab on/off when taking computer out of sleep - Bring inside from the garage and start playing (Sorry this one is blurry)
  8. Yes I will likely wire up those service buttons.... but I don't really need to, since I'll always have a wireless keyboard handy inside the cabinet. Power button will just be a push-button to turn computer on and off. I'm going to wire a 20A relay to the 12V of the computer power supply, so when I turn the computer on, the 12V turns on, closes the relay, and turns the monitors/power supplies/etc power ON. I don't like having to switch things off.... just "sleep" or "shutdown" within windows and everything goes off automatically. I found my cab locally. Just throw something on Craigslist under "wanted" and wait a week or so. I also called a few local pinball repair places to see if they had empties. I had several options within just a few days.
  9. Speakers were ordered Friday. Mental note for future: DO NOT CUT HOLES BEFORE I GET SPEAKERS! I made that mistake and cut a 4" hole thinking that speakers are generally the same. They're not. Took me a week to search all the dimensions out there to find a compatible speaker for the panel. Went camping this weekend but did get home early enough to do some work on the Cabinet. I took all the metal parts off late last week, and spent some time polishing them up with some buffing compound. I didn't take the side rails off, but pretty much everything else came off. I removed the original side rails and lightly sanded the insides. Then I took some flat black spray paint and went over the entire inside of the cabinet and back box. I just wanted a solid color, as the cabinet is a bit discolored. Test fit the bottom panel I cut as well as the computer. I'll be cutting the case apart a little so it fits better. Lots of wasted space, and a motherboard panel is way too expensive. One thing I did was tried to keep the original back-glass locking mechanism. It keeps the original full height back glass locked in place. Even though I'm using a speaker panel, I can use the same locking setup. I also kept the original playfield prop bar and coin mechanisms (they work!). The metal is all in good shape and only a few items inside were corroded from sitting. Cleaned it all up and re-installed into the cabinet. Next up is cutting button holes and then mounting the speaker panel and LCD displays.
  10. I haven't decided yet. It all depends on clearances inside. I just got some wood cut for the cab that takes some internal space. I might be an inch or so away from the glass, but it does look nice when I test fitted it flush against the glass. The way I designed the playfield board, is that there are side rails I can move if I want to change it later. No ghosting so far runing FX2, VP9.9 and a couple of test tables. I'm still working on what buttons I want and configuring the VirtuaPin plunger kit V2 (has 15 available) as well as the LEDwiz. Aside from having the Digital plunger and the Nudge sensor on the Virtuapin kit, I want the following buttons: Start Extra Ball How to Play Exit Launch button (Alternative to the digital plunger) 2 Flipper buttons 2 Magnasave buttons 1 input for the coin door (wiring them in parallel) maybe some service buttons For outputs: Knocker Start LED Extra Ball LED Exit LED How To Play LED Authentic Launch ball LED Coin door LEDs Amplifier: Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 channel Speakers: FaitalPRO 4FE35 4" full range Sub: Dayton Audio DC200-8 8" sub
  11. Due to how the Insignia TVs are made, you can really only remove the rear case. The front bezel needs to stay there. I left both in the cases, as they protect everything and it just looks cleaner and they fit just fine. They use the front bezel to hold the parts together, so its a mechanical component, not aesthetic. The 28" fit just fine in a standard widebody. I had a 32" at first, but it didn't fit width wise (by about 0.5"). I would check dimensions with VirtuaPin and compare that to the 32. My 28" fits great width and height wise and allows me to use a 10" tall speaker panel that I made, and a 10" tall 15" diagonal LCD monitor for the DMD. I think the 32 might've been a bit too tall for me to fit much below it. 1) Easy, not decased. 2) Yes, a cheap 15" 4:3 LCD monitor I found. 3) Yes, Both Insignia and the LCD monitor I found power on automatically from power loss. But if you use the shut down button on the computer and the signal is lost, they won't auto detect a signal and come back up. You have to turn off power when you shut down. You could use a 12V relay coming off the power supply to turn on/off the LCDs when you shut down, not sure what I'll be doing yet. 4) See my build log: http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?36181-Williams-Blackout-40-28-first-time-build Using a piece of MDF, hinged on each side and a bar to prop it up when I'm working on it. Playfield will mount using the VESA mount in the back (4 screws). The backglass will attach to a board that gets screwed in to each side of the backbox using the VESA mounts. Inside, I'll have a couple of small pieces of wood screwed to the inside, and the backglass board will mount to that.
  12. I have almost same setup actually (I have the 28 inch and the same 40 inch). and so far it's OK. I don't see many response time issues yet. As far as 60hz, I read here and there that 60 should be ok. The 40 fits in a standard cab with a little cutting of the insignia logo. Kept mine cased. Also they're 8ms, not 8Mhz. A little slow but I haven't noticed a huge difference. I don't have a ton of tables and not all of my stuff hooked up, but it runs the latest VP and Pinball FX2 on steam very well.
  13. Spent most of Saturday with a friend doing the wood internals. We cut the speaker panel, Backglass LCD mount, Playfield LCD mount, equipment panel and some extra mounting pieces. I cut a 36" x 20.25" board that the Playfield monitor will mount to using the VESA mounts. I could have made a frame, but we had some MDF and just cut to size. Also cut some rails that will go along the sides and allow the Playfield to rest securely. Also, since the bottom of the cabinet is a really thin particulate board, I wanted to cut a board that would screw down to the two internal supports that goes across the inside. We cut a 39" x 20.25" board that will go from the back wall to the front support and give a nice base to mount computer, IO cards and power supplies. Then we cut the Speaker panel with two 4" holes. The LCD I got for the DMD was exactly 10" tall by 12" wide. We cut the hole to be about the same aspect ratio as a real DMD, with a height of ~3.1". We routered it out and rounded the edges. It fits perfectly in the backbox. Some pics of the buttons and plunger kit Next is installing the mounts and speaker panel, doing some paint, and mounting some things in the cabinet. I have most of the parts I need to get it running, minus speakers and Amp.
  14. So time for a little update. I've been busy and haven't posted much. I got a few more parts: - Gigabyte Z97X-UD3H motherboard - Toshiba Q-series pro 128GB SSD - 15" 4:3 monitor (almost exactly 10" tall) for $5 at a local surplus store - Various microswitch buttons for menus, start, insert coin, alternate Launch button. $3 each at the local surplus store - Logitech K400r wireless keyboard - Cheap computer case to install the computer parts in. I completely gutted it down to just a frame. $10 at the surplus store. - A friend gave me an old MAME cabinet he built with an iPac and a bunch of buttons and a joystick. Keeping for spares/etc. On order: - New black legs, cabinet protectors, leg levelers, bolts - LED-Wiz - New Coin entry plates (mine were old and one cracked) - Backglass trim - Coin door and Backglass locks - 4 flipper buttons and leaf switches The Virtuapin plunger V2 came in and I had trouble getting it to install. It seems like it won't work at all if the Intel USB 3.0 drivers are installed. I uninstalled them and it works. I'm fine, since I don't have anything that would use USB 3.0. Its very easy to use and so far works as advertised. The computer is built and running smoothly. I've installed some of the software and all looks just fine. I'm trying not to rush through things and learn what I need to do and add more progressively. So far its super fast and I've been watching movies on it, trying to see I got the nVidia GTX 660 set up with my displays and it looks pretty nice on the 40" and 28" inch Insignia displays, as well as the 15" that I'll use for the DMD. The 28" LCD is right at 15.5" tall, and the 15" LCD is right at 10" tall decased, giving a total of 25.5" inside the backbox, which is right at 26". I test fit and it fits pretty much perfectly. I'll build a speaker panel about 10" tall and get some clear plastic to cover the backglass display. I cut off an aesthetic strip that was hanging on the bottom of the 40" LED display, and now its pretty much symmetric top and bottom and fits into the cabinet perfectly. In the coming weeks, I'll be cleaning up the cabinet, mounting the buttons and displays and testing out some of the software. For the time being, I'm only using the LED-Wiz for lights on the buttons, a knocker (already have it) and maybe some LED lighting. I plan on adding contactors and more lighting at a later time. More pictures and such later.
  15. I'm waiting on a couple parts to do basic testing on it.... updating my version of Windows, and waiting for my digital plunger from Virtua Pin. Keep on me about so I don't forget to update you. From the AV review threads I read online, as well as reviews, people seemed to like it. I'm no video-phile, so I may not be the best to ask, but I do give honest answers if there are specific things I can measure or look for. http://alatest.com/reviews/tv-reviews/insignia-ns-40d510na15-40-class-39-1-2-diag-led-1080p-60hz-hdtv/po3-206457668,33/ I do have a 46" Insignia for my home theatre from a few years ago and the quality is pretty good for movies and and games.
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