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Carny_Priest

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About Carny_Priest

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  1. A higher power rating than what you linked to earlier? I don't think so. I'm pretty sure the rating advertised for the amp is peak output. The average output may be more like half the peak. At least it seems doubtful that you will overdrive and break that subwoofer. And in practice, how loud are you really going to crank it even though it is not hugely powerful amp? The player will be standing right next to the speakers! As another point of comparison, the main channel speakers on my machine are Lanzar MX42 4" speakers. They are rated 120W peak and 60W on average. The amp can drive these quite well. I don't think the amp is not powerful enough. There's plenty of volume. I don't think the amp is too powerful. I have heard no distortion or clipping, but then I haven't felt the need to put it to the test. I'm standing three feet away from the speakers.
  2. I don't have any specific recommendations. I have a Lanzar MAX8 600W subwoofer. It came with the machine. It's just another off-brand car speaker comparable in price to what you linked to. It does deliver volume at the low-end. I was impressed with the effect on TAF Showtime multiball. At the right volume you may question the need to install contactors/solenoids for force feedback. On the other hand, there is distortion on the bass line for some soundtracks like BBB and Scared Stiff Boogie Man Boogie Mode. It's irritating. I'm in a pier-and-beam house with hardwood floors so there is some nasty resonances that I still need to tame. It may be enough to add that low pass filter in-line from the amp. Or I may have to do adjust the equalization in Windows. Or something else. Some might recommend that car speakers stay in the car. Get a subwoofer for a home theater. A subwoofer in its own enclosure may not fit into the cabinet. But if it fits your aesthetic sensibilities you can run a line from your cabinet and place your subwoofer just about anywhere. Or in the optimum location for bass response for the player. It's a high quality solution so more money. The one recommendation is to shop from a seller with a liberal return policy. You are only going to be able to hear that the solution works for you by trying it out in your cabinet in the room where you will be using it. Can't really tell that by looking at a picture and technical specs online. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  3. Nice job with that speaker panel. Bevel looks professional.
  4. Well, you can spend four or five times as much for something like the plate amp which may work great out of the box. Or go cheap and spend a little more on parts and do a little labor to correct the unit's known defects. I had my cabinet built for me and the Lepai came with it. It was already a sunk cost, so it made much more sense for me to buy a couple of parts. If you want higher quality, no hassle, small footprint, 2.1 amp, I'd try that plate amp. Of course, that will have a Made in China tag as well. Everything is Made in China unless you are willing to shell out a truly large amount of money for audiophile or pro level equipment. People harp on these Lepai amps, and they have their defects. But the performance is still pretty phenomenal for the size and price and for what it is needed to do. I was impressed by it in any case. If it was truly a hunk of shit I would have tossed it. I would not use it to drive my home stereo, but it is good for a game and I'd say it is as good as the sound system in any real life table. A lot of builders wind up using it because it does the job well not that is the absolutely highest quality solution that could be imagined.
  5. I'm not at home. I recall that the speakers connect through crimp terminals on the rear of the amp. The kind of filter depends on your cabinet design, the speakers you have, the size and shape of the room where you will place the machine, the location within the room where you will place the machine. The type of flooring you have: carpet, hardwood, concrete, etc. What I selected for myself based on measurements may not be appropriate for your situation. All this considering your personal motivation to do this sort of room correction versus the application. After all, it's only pinball! If you are mostly playing 80's and 90's recreations, the sound samples from that era are not what we might call from the vantage point of the year 2014, high quality. If you are wanting to have the cabinet also act as a jukebox then it may be worth the effort. The process is not hard though. Get a handheld SPL meter. If you don't have one you may be able to use an app for a smartphone. Not very accurate but the price is right and hopefully better than nothing. If the control is available set to C Weighting and Slow response. Db range to whatever is closest to 70 to 80. Disconnect the subwoofer from the amp or set the sub volume all the way down. We are just using the main speakers. We want to find the floor for your main speakers where they begin to fail to reproduce low frequency output. That point is where the subwoofer should pick up. You will need some test tones: http://www.wavtones.com/functiongenerator.php Allows you to download short duration test files for free. You will need Pink noise. And then you will need a set of Sine waveform test tones in increments 10Hz starting from, say, 50Hz to 250Hz. Select duration of 5sec for all sounds. That's the max you can do for no cost. Set treble and bass to 0 on the amp. In Windows toggle off any Eq effects if they are on. Playback the pink noise. Adjust the Windows volume until the reading on your SPL meter is around 75db. Now, playback the sine wave tones starting at 250Hz and moving down in increments of 10Hz. The floor for your main speakers are where the sound levels start reading in the 60s and getting quieter as you playback sounds at lower frequencies. This is where the subwoofer should be coming in to fill out low frequency playback. And you don't need the subwoofer to playback higher frequencies that are already reproduced by the main speakers. This is the frequency where you crossover and where you would place a low pass filter. For me, that was 120Hz. I simply found a cheap one on EBay.
  6. Hmm. Guess that's why that Lepai is popular. Still, if that's not an option. You can also look at another configuration, a plate amplifier that can be mounted on the side of the cabinet. http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-mca2250e-21-channel-class-d-plate-amplifier--300-771
  7. Search on Amazon for home audio component amplifiers. There are other brands of mini-amps.
  8. A headphone amp powered by USB will not have enough power to drive car speakers and a sub. An amp sold for a home A/V system would plug into the mains and likely drive the speakers. Like a stereo receiver/tuner. The chassis would be much larger than the Lepai. New equipment would cost £ vs. a cheap Chinese mini-amp. Another option might be a speaker system sold for PC's. There may still be some systems configured with a separate control unit with DSP and amp. It would be powered off of the mains and it may or may not have the juice to drive car speakers. I don't know how many of these systems are still configured like this. I have one I was considering using as a secondary system in my cabinet as it has a small footprint like the Lepai, but this was manufactured in the 1990s. I think most systems today just have powered desktop speakers. Again this would draw power from your mains. You would pull out the car speakers and figure out how to mount the desktop speakers, maybe building a little shelf. I think the price for a decent PC 2.1 system would be comparable to a Lepai plus car speakers. It would work best if you had a sound card or other expansion card that had a jack for an LFE, low frequency effects, channel. Or if your motherboard had integrated support for 5.1 sound signal output. Don't know which, if any, motherboards have that. Mine does not. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. 1. If you were considering a solution similar to the Lepai then you are looking at 2.1 mini-amps. Most builds I've seen in the forums match an amp with a pair of 4" main speakers but also include a subwoofer. You can use smaller speakers or larger speakers if there is the space to install them. The 2.1 means an amp with 2 channels plus 1 low frequency effect output for the subwoofer. You certainly don't have to use a subwoofer but I think you might appreciate the effect. The main speakers I use are 4" two-way speakers. Two-way means they have a main driver and a tweeter in the same housing. It is not a high end brand at all. Audiophile level equipment is money wasted here, but that's only my opinion. Do the research before you commit to a purchase especially based on the recommendation of some random stranger on the internet like myself. Your neighborhood car audio store will have a number of options that you can listen to. Instead of a car radio with a tuner and amp, you are just looking for the amp. 3. I use the integrated audio outputs on the motherboard. Run a stereo cable with a mini-jack from the motherboard. The connection on the other end of the cable depends on what you select for an amp. Some like the Lepai take L/R RCA connectors. Others may take another stereo mini-jack. On my system there is a way to split out the mechanical sounds without another sound card or any other additional equipment. My playfield TV is connected via HDMI to an Nvidia card that has integrated audio. HDMI carries an audio signal as well as a video signal. Simply go into VP Preferences -> Audio Options and under Output Sound Device select your playfield screen or NVIDIA High Definition Audio. Under Backglass Sound Device leave as Primary Sound Device. Restart VP. Turn up the volume on the playfield TV. Nice effect! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. Where in the cabinet do you have that amp mounted?
  11. Led strip - well, that's what the Zeb board is designed to do, to drive an output current beyond what the LED-Wiz is capable of driving by itself. Shouldn't be a problem to wire in an LED strip to the output kit.
  12. Yes, if your list of toys is eight contactors, shaker/gear motor, two 12 VDC beacons, 1 RGB LED light bar, then I can't think of anything else that you have to add from Zeb. There is still remaining space in your set-up to order from Zeb a set or two of his strobe panels. A lot of people use these in their builds. It is possible to get these cheaper on Ebay even considering shipping from another source. Any reason why no knocker? That's a toy that most builders would call a must have. The link you gave also includes connections for front panel button lighting which is a nice effect. Others also add an undercab RGB light strip. In the classic designs all these toys winds up being the limit of what you can do with 32 outputs. Without adding additional control boards, to add a new toy means having to take one out.
  13. Audio output from your PC. Hopefully, your motherboard has on-board audio outputs. Auto speakers and sub and an amp to drive them. A lot of people use this miniamp: http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO It's not great manufacturing quality but it does the job. I replaced the stock power supply adapter with a higher rated one, but I didn't think it made much difference. The subwoofer crossover on my unit does not work. It's a commonly reported defect. I bought a low pass filter to connect in line with my subwoofer. That said, even with these fixes it's a good value. It delivers. Stepping up to other options means a lot more $$$ or perhaps taking a chance on used equipment. It's pinball after all. Not a device for audiophiles. It's about the near field experience. You don't need overkill on power. It's not like the pinball has to fill a nightclub space with sound. Others have had no issues at all with these mini amps. Splitting table and ROM, is about separating the sound placement between the backboard and the cabinet. Requires a whole second system: dedicated sound card if you don't have a second set of outputs built in to your graphics card. I don't. Another set of speakers and another amp to drive them. Many may use just bass transducers to reproduce the feel of the ball rolling on the playfield, but I think I would want both low frequency effects and high frequency for ball to ball and ball to glass collisions. I haven't tested a secondary output system yet. I intend on just using an old PC speaker and controller/amp system that I already have before I commit to buying anything. I've actually been very satisfied so far simply running all output through one system.
  14. So far, so good. And I see that an LED-Wiz adapter comes with the Virtual Output Kit so you would not need another. What are the voltage input requirements for your contactors? The output kit you linked to was designed with "8x diode protected contactor outputs with adjustable voltage supply of 12 - 24 vdc". There is one output - "1x 32v diode protected replay knocker output" The remaining 23 outputs would be a user-selectable mix of 5V and 12V outputs. Do your contactors require 12V DC or 24V DC? If 24V DC, then technically you would be short two high powered outputs. I don't think that you would want to put a contactor on the knocker output. In practice, I think that you could connect the contactor to 12V DC but it would not kick very hard. It may not kick hard enough to provide satisfactory feedback. If you have 12 VDC contactors then everything is good. If you have 24 VDC contactors then, there is a decision to be made here. Just go with the output kit and try to drive two of those contactors at 12V DC. If you don't like it you can just take the extra contactors out of the design. One of the standard DOF configs still uses 8 contactors. Or bite the bullet and add a bare bones booster board for high output voltages. You would need to add diodes for the pair of contactors driven by the booster board, but diodes are very cheap. There is an alternative - you could wire the two contactors directly to the flipper switches so that they always engage on a button press. This does not require control from an LED-Wiz. But it does require a separate 24V power supply to power the contactors. In the end, it's a more complicated solution that saves maybe less than $15 over just getting a booster board and using the standard config generators that are available.
  15. Count your toys. Don't forget that an RGB LED will require three LED-Wiz outputs, one output for each color. On your beacons, how were you wanting to use them for any event such as earning a replay? They will always running together or were you intending on controlling each beacon individually? If they will always be turned on together then you need one LED-Wiz output. If you wanted to control each beacon individually then you will need two LED-Wiz outputs, one for each fixture. If the number of toys/outputs needed exceeds 32 then you will either need a second LED-Wiz or to scale back your design so that you can fit it to one LED-Wiz. By the way, what kind of beacons will you be using? The kind that you plug into a wall jack or the kind that is installed in a car? Is it an old-style revolving light or a new-style LED flasher that you may find being used on emergency vehicles today? If the input voltage required is not 12V DC then you may need that solid state relay.
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