Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...
  • Announcement

    Sorry for the recent downtime. Still much to do but we have the site updated, secure and back online.  Expect more changes.

maxxsinner

Platinum Member
  • Posts

    403
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by maxxsinner

  1. Great to hear this project is finally going ahead but really disappointing to hear the first round of donations has gone. Can hardly expect people to contribute to seriously worthwhile projects like this if this kind of thing happens.

    Thanks Shakenbake for all that you are donating as I can only assume there is a large shortfall between what is needed and what you have, as well as the second time donators.

  2. The calculation below is how to hook up your Red LEDs in series -

    Red%2520in%2520series.PNG

    And this one is the same for both your Blue and Green LEDs in series -

    Green%2520and%2520Blue%2520series.PNG

    Make sure you are using high powered resistors for these arrays. Although the calculator states that it's only drawing 350 mA from the source, I would worried about hooking these arrays straight up to a LEDwiz output.

  3. My next question is one that is basic I think but it is taxing my brain late at night ...

    on the picture below ... the relay, can you tell me if I am correct in what I am reading?

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]34921[/ATTACH]

    Yep that is correct for your relay.

    Going to the solenoid pictured below ....

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]34922[/ATTACH]

    What is messing me brain up is that the LED Wiz likes to switch the ground side, but does that matter with the relay involved?

    The ledwiz is only controlling the ground on the relay to switch the relay on and off. The ledwiz doesn't care what you are switching with the relay.

    the wiring will go; LED Wiz >>to fuse >> to relay then relay to solenoid ... is this correct?

    LEDwiz to fuse to where you marked the relay on the first pic. Then from 12v to the relay. from the switch side of the relay to the solenoid.

    oh yeah ... also this seems to be a latching relay? There is a diode built in from what I am looking at, do I need another on the solenoid itself?

    A latching relay? So it remains closed even when the power is taken off the coil? I would put a diode on the solenoid just to make the contacts on your relay live a bit longer.

    Hope that helps

  4. [ATTACH=CONFIG]34919[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]34920[/ATTACH]

    The pin locations are hard to see but using the ohm meter I can see what pins are connected when the power button is pushed. so I believe that it is just a short to ground, correct?

    Although it's likely to be switching to ground, it would be impossible to tell without hooking it up and testing. I would keep the two circuits separate by wiring them to each side of the normally open/common on your button.

  5. Hey Les. Glad the guide could help you out.

    I have one comment, it seems to me that this guide and most of the posts are all about going “BIG” or not doing anything, I think there is something to be said about doing only what is needed to get a cabinet built and working and then down the road adding toys along the way. Looking at it from very limited funds aspect I am looking to do what I can with what I have on hand or can get very inexpensive.

    I put all the options that we had available to us then so people could pick and choose what they wanted if they didn't want to go "big". I understand the limited budget totally, but trying to install stuff down the track will mean the playfield monitor will need to be removed. I personally want to install my TV and never touch it again. :)

    Check to see if you haven't already, if you monitor remebers its last state if powered off from the wall. Most TV's and monitors do these days, otherwise you will have to install your buttons. Keep the control circuits for the tv's seperated as one might have a 5v input to turn it on and the other may be ground = release of magic smoke.

  6. Hi all,

    if there is interest i can post my arduino code (but no where to host it - can this site take zips?)

    It has lots of functionality and lots of fancy led effects (see elsewhere in this thread for what is supported).

    regards

    Shifters

    Still no word from Pixel shifters??

  7. If I am reading correctly gyom, the piezo and led setups that you have been showing will work as a switch, not analogue? The LED will simulate a keypress when the plunger is pulled back far enough to allow the sensor to see the IR LED and with the piezo will need to be hit to trigger the plunger? A simple inductive sensor would be easy and cheap like this one here - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LJ12A3-4-Z-BY-Inductive-Proximity-Sensor-Detection-Switch-PNP-DC6-36V-12MM-FV88-/140904989838?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BRTU%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D290671992004%26ps%3D54

  8. Hey samwyze. I had a tinker with the IR and got some good results. Turned off the PC, teensy board etc.... came back the next day and the calibration was all out?? So basically had to start again. Could not work out what was causing it at all and ended up moving onto the LVDT as that is the one I would really like to get going. Certainly not a dead end route in my opinion, may just need further refinement. Seems odd that Mot-ion has moved away from the IR unless they could not work out the calibration problem.

  9. There are a few working on plunger designs including myself gyom and I might be able to help with some information.

    The original Mot-ion plunger was an infrared distance sensor similar to what you are trying to make but the sensor and receiver were installed at the end of the plunger, using the tip of the plunger to bounce the infrared signal back to the receiver. As most will tell you this was less than reliable. They have redone the design with either a LVDT type of sensor or a hall effect sensor. I have not had the chance to have a good look at the new design to ascertain which it is.

    I have tried with ultrasonic’s, IR sensors and home made LVDT's with mixed results. LVDT is going to be the most accurate type of linear sensor that could be done, but implementing is the difficult part as my goal is to design something that people could make at home themselves. Ultrasonics polling rate is too slow to pick up quick motion on the plunger when it is released and infrared was reasonably accurate, but came with the same problems that the Mot-ion plunger had; calibration errors, unreliable action, etc.

    If you are looking to do a simple switch rather than analouge, a small induction sensor would be the easiest way.

    As for converting the input to something VP can understand, I recommend starting with the teensy USB board. You can configure it to act as a gamepad so an analogue signal will work as a plunger on the Z axis with just a little calibration. VP will recognize it and work straight away. If you are looking to just do a simple switch, the teensy can act as a keyboard and be configured as the enter key.

    Good luck with your design. Hope this info helps.

  10. Some great info there antropus. Thanks for the link.

    DigitalMocking, not sure where the other guys are getting their crees from, but a quick google search showed this web site from the US http://www.ledsupply.com/creemce.php

    For heat sinks, I have seen some use aluminum flat bar for ease of installation. I used ones from RScomponents.

    If you check a couple of the build threads, I am sure some posted links to where they purchased gear from - http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?17455-Indiana-Jones-and-the-Pinball-Crusade-(46-28-15)-build-project

  11. A fuse after the switch might give you more trouble that it's worth.

    Acording to the amp label, there are no serviceable parts inside, which normally means 'please buy a new one :)'

    If you disconnect the power cord and remove gently pull the panel out, I would be betting there is a soldered fuse on there that has blown.

    Fingers crossed for you freezy. Once you get it open, post a couple of pics if you still need help.

  12. Hey freezy. Most amps have a fuse that you can get to on the unit somewhere. Just hope it's not internal to be a PITA.

    I have that unit so will have a look and see what I can find out for you.

    Sometimes "slowly" pushing a switch will cause an arc to occur in the switch, drawing a heap of current but it normally does nothing detrimental.

    I have blown the fuse on my Logitech amp a couple of times but at least that one is external.

  13. Just wanted to post to say a big thank you to Lucian as my prints arrived in the land of Oz last week and I am stunned at how the prints have turned out. I have had a few different places do prints for me and these are by far the best I have recieved.

    The time that Lucian put in with me to be able make sure everything was going to turn out perfect was very much appreciated and could not go unthanked.

    Cheers Lucian and thanks again for your time and effort! :beer:

  14. That will work fine AM. As for wire gauge, most flexible wire used in extention leads and computer leads has to be rated to about 10 amps. You should have on your power supplies the rating of the mains side and how much amperage it will draw (maximum). But personally dont think you willl have any problems wiring them as you have show.

×
×
  • Create New...