Takedown

Hey Blur, Have you considered using something like github for the hosting and distribution of your project? It makes it quite easy for other people to fork your project, make adjustments / fixes and then let you know of these changes for you to decide to pull back in or not. It also adds in version'ing and tagging of each release. Another thing that would be helpful is if there is some strange bug on Windows 7 that creeps in after a release, git will easily show the difference between releases making tracking down that bug by you or others easier. If you have not used git before, I'd be willing to help you get up to speed, the basics can be learned quickly and github provides a lot of the heavy lifting. Thanks for your work on this!

awesome!!!

Hi Pixel, How will the software work for your boards? Will it be the same/similar to how the LED Whiz works with the config files? I'm probably a month out from needing an LED control board, do you think your setup will be in beta by then or is it still further out? I'm really just looking for the same functionality as the LED whiz right now and could then look at expansion later once the ideas start flowing for what is capable with your board Keep up the good work!

Pretty freaking sweet. Thanks for the video. What are the dimensions of the viewable area of the DMD? (want to make sure if I do this later my DMD panel will work)

Thanks for the catch on this, heard back from the seller and they indicated that it cannot work with 0 volt input.

Will you be using contactors only for the flippers and the pull solenoids for all others?

That'd be awesome if that works out, then I would only need a smaller relay board for some of the other toys.

Ok, so low/false (0) logic is what we are looking for. Thank you.

What part of the spec indicates 0 volt input? This was the board I was looking at. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-16-Channel-12V-Relay-Module-Interface-Board-Arduino-PIC-ARM-DSP-PLC-/170745300786?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27c1368732#ht_4032wt_952 Thanks.

Thanks for the info. I was considering trying one of the relay boards that is on ebay. They have one that is 16 ports for $30 which would be enough to drive 8 contactors as well as the wiper and knocker if it works. I guess I could try out a single one first and see how it goes before buying the board. I'll give it a shot

Would a relay like you linked to work for the contactors, even if they fire often? I have 24v contactors , but would like to switch them with 12v so I can spread the contactors across different banks on the led wiz. Do these have any lag and/or should I consider other relays?

Pixel, thanks for answering. I'lll hold off a bit longer on purchasing the whiz, at the rate I'm going it will be 2 months before I actually need it and maybe you'll be ready for us to start using your system. If not, no worries Thanks.

Hi Pixel, I'm getting ready to start ordering various electronics for my cab and I'm wondering if it's a good idea to wait for your solution? Does your solution do all of the LED Whiz functionality currently? Is there anything special needed to get it running? If you were in my shoes would you buy a LED whiz or go with your solution? Thanks, -Ron

Hey Pixel, I was checking out the updates to your site and see that you ordered 9 contactors. I ordered 9 as well, but only did so to have one as a spare. What are your plans for the 9th contactor? Thanks

Wow that is really cool stuff. I can feel my wallet draining already

In all of the wiring diagrams I have seen people with 12v contactors are running them at 12v. They make a nice noise at 12v so I'm not sure you would want to run them higher for any period of time.

Ahhh! How much better that sounds. Now I'm happy with the contactors, thanks.

Cool DeeGor. I think I'm going to need to mount them in the cab to make up my mind. I might also purchase a new contactor and see if it makes much of a difference. Maybe once I get all the gear in and the sound going it will sound good.

Thank you DeeGor, I'll go with 18 gauge throughout. I got the 24v power supply in the mail today and started to test the contactors. I'm a bit disappointed they really don't give much of a sound. I'm not sure if it's due to not being mounted, even if they are really old, or for some other reason. I even upped the power to roughly 28V and it didn't change much. The car solenoids I tested awhile ago definitely had a louder sound. Does anyone have any videos of their contactors being tested on the bench that I might be able to compare to? Thank you.

Hello, What gauge(s) of wire should I use? I had originally purchased 18 gauge in black, but I'm going to order more colors. Should 18 gauge be good throughout or overkill? I will be wiring up to 12v and 24v power supplies to run all of the toys. I will not be wiring up my own main, I'll be using a smart strip for that. Thanks for the help.

Thanks, I'm planning to go pickup a multimeter and will check if there is a circuit there. I will ultimately be using a 24v ps, but I want to hear that thump today The searches I did pointed out that it should probably be 24v between the + and -, well see.

When testing contactors with a computer power supply should I be using 12v+ and 12v- or should I use 12v+ and ground? The reason I ask is because I have 24v contactors, but the 24v ps has not shown up yet, however I'd like to test them before the return window runs out. When using 12v+ and ground the click is very low. I'm thinking I should be using 12v+ and 12v-, but thought I'd better check here first. Does anyone have any good general electronic resources they would recommend?