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About TapeWormInYourGut

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  1. The company selling those arcades probably use their own design. If that is the case then there most likely aren't any plans for it.
  2. I only have 1 image, I thought I took more. It is also on page 6 of the arcadecontrols link that fire10 posted. I extended the camera using a cut IDE cable, so I did not have to mod the plastics. However, the real advantage to that is with being able to clean up the end so that the AimTrak camera board is not exposed. You can see the camera poking out of the round peace of plastic. I then hot-glued the plastic on an angle, similar to how the camera is mounted on the original board. The blue wires are what I piped through. The AimTrak and recoil kit are wrapped and stacked on top of each other. Also, I grounded the MOSFET that is on the recoil board. I ground it using that wire that is screwed to the bottom of the solenoid bracket by wrapping the other end of the wire around the hole on the MOSFET. Also, make sure that the camera is mounted level with the gun. So facing the screen, the camera should not be tilted left or right. If it is slightly tilted, then moving left and right across the screen will not be strait, and that will affect calibration. The gun will always be off. If it is level, then calibrating will result in a prefect aim. The mouse follows the gun's site perfectly.
  3. Also, I cut the camera off the aimtrak and extended it. One of the traces lifted off the camera board and killed it, but I was able to use a spare from another aimtrak I fried... So it is risky to go that route. I used a razor blade to cut the 8 solder points that had held the camera onto the board. If you do this, then make sure you only touch those points. A slip can easily cut right through a trace, which will cause a headache to fix and rewire. I am not an electronics expert and this is the first time I really attempted anything like that. So don't think that I have all the answers.
  4. I just finished modding 2 of those guns about a month ago. I only have pics of the insides after I put them together, but I don't want to hijack your thread so I will hold off on posting anything. I had recycled the wires that it came with, however, I added 2 18 gauge wires and piped them through because the original wires got a bit hot. If you do this, make sure you mark the one that will be used for ground. There is only1 thick wire in the existing harness, so if make sure you use that one if you aren't going to wire a few extra in. The smaller wires won't handle it. I basically just cut the wires and soldered the halves of a USB cable to each end. I originally planned on using the unused ting wires to hook up a pedal to the aimtrak AUX button, but I got lazy. Make sure that you wrap the boards in shrink tubes or electrician's tape, since they will be sitting on top of each other. I am still looking into a way to wire up the rumble. I think there are switching regulators that will extract take 24v to 3v. I am guessing that the motor is 3v based n what the x360 contrller uses. I don't know if I would want full power though, so going lower is an option.
  5. The aimtraks are basically emulated mice. So any emulator that allows you to use a mouse, will work with an aimtrak. The only problem is if you want 2 player. You need to use the Troubleshooter app for 2 player with most emulators and native PC games. I don't think that PCSX2 has good support for guns games. I would google it, but it might not be possible, or might be more work than it is worth.
  6. I am by no means an expert, but a solenoid is basically a coiled wire with a piston in the center. When you supply power to it, it magnetizes and pulls the piston back. The higher the voltage, the stronger the force will be. The heat is caused by your 36v power supply. Too much heat will break your a solenoid. If your solenoid does not work after it cooled down, then it probably needs to be replaced. You should use a 24v power supply if you are using an aimtrak. Some threads around the net indicate that 2 amps should be good enough if the power supply is hooked to a single aimtrak. I know 36v makes it move faster, but it is too high for a solenoid of that size.
  7. I assume that you have the control panel already? Because that doesn't include the xarcade stick. 4x8 plywood is only like $20. 2, maybe just 1 would make that. Then paint and hardware to hold it together, probably $30-40 for those. Also tools if you don't have them, which would be your greatest cost. At the very least you would need a jig saw and sander. So under 100 if you have tools. Someone might have plans, but look at that thing. If you can build a box then you should be able to build something like that. Personally I would not spend almost 400 for a plain cabinet and no controls.
  8. I don't know if you already made your purchase or not, but I would recommend Ultimarc stuff as well. They are pricier though which it seems like you want to keep costs down... I just bought from their site and it arrived at my house in just 5 days, and I am in the US. I personally chose them because their ultrlaux buttons looked the best imo. There was a thread comparing the 3 popular buttons, and their plastics looked the most crisp (less opaque and more vibrant). I can't find the thread though...However, I am talking about single color buttons, so I can't say much about their RGB stuff. While I only started my build last week, I have to say that everything seems to be in nice quality. I was a bit worried about the analog u360, but it feels solid like an arcade stick minus the clicking. Their 4/8 sticks are probably near perfect if that is what you are aiming for.
  9. I was looking at those not too long ago, and then saw the prices and passed. I would have expected the thing to at least have lighted buttons. Honestly though, someone would have to pay me more than that to make them a panel. I am more surprised that people pay 100 for those ugly lightning graphics. No offense to the OP if you got that too
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