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lukensteinz

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About lukensteinz

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    Obsessed with DOOM
  • Birthday 08/05/1983
  1. Hell yes! But my next cabinet will be a real Doomfest. Gonna be using a trackball too Sent from my LT26w using Tapatalk
  2. Hmm great advice! Thanks mate. I went with the Wagner for the total ease of use and the tiny amount of room it takes up. Metal piston and housing, but yeah there are *some* plastic parts. And only time it's clogged up is when I forgot to clean it. I rinse it right out and oil it before storage. Have a look at my pics of my cab, the paint turned out pretty well! It does actually atomise the paint the properly, you just need to fiddle with the flow rate and get the right consistency. (I'm painting cabinets, with water based paint, not cars) Dunno what it's like with poly yet though, but different atomizers are available. And yep, sealed it with a good primer. Think I'll look at a compressor and kit one day, especially for paints the Wagner can't do. thanks heaps for your advice. I wasn't aware that oil based paints can yellow over time. Was the polyurethane the final top coat? Does it dry quite hard? Sent from my LT26w using Tapatalk
  3. Very very nice. Have you tried airless spray guns before? I got a Wagner 180p gun, it's brilliant, bit tricky to get it right, but the effort is well worth it. What was drying time like? Water based paint? Is the paint still tacky/soft? One thing I experienced, using water based paint, the mdf seemed to shrink about a millimeter. Sent from my LT26w using Tapatalk
  4. Haha oh my, that's classic! Thanks guys! My own scantily clad model was busy swearing at Dark Souls at the time Sent from my LT26w using Tapatalk
  5. Awesome. I can get carbatec through my family biz, Techweld, in PN. Sent from my LT26w using Tapatalk
  6. Just some more pics. As you can see, the back door MDF has a grill routed out of it, which has a fan screwed in behind to help provide some airflow through the cab. These photos will hopefully help to give a sense of proportion and dimension. I find the final shape to be quite pleasing in the proportions and angles used. Funny how the Doom theme seems to always be on it...
  7. Back again for a hefty and final update. As you can see, the control panel design changed a lot from the initial design. Much more rounded and blended, very aesthetically pleasing. Another trial fit. Looking very good! BossLevel is an NZ small business who specialize in retrogaming. I also ended up redoing the perspex halfway through. I wasn't quite happy with the layout or fit. Lots of little minor adjustments all round until it felt right. Actually feels natural to use. A quick artwork test. It looked quite cool, except it didn't really feel like the right theme for the cab. I also put the metal panel base to one side, and completely redid it with an alloy sheet. 1.2mm. Can easily drill the holes with a spade bit too. Another artwork trial. I just grabbed a pretty MK wallpaper and vectorised the bits I wanted. Marquee test as well. I had also trialed it with "MORTAL KOMBAT" on it's own, with the fighters in the foreground, and background. I ended up settling on this because it was clean. Button colour trial. This changed in the end. Painting.... Painting was a B**CH! I bought an electric spray gun. Except I was sold the wrong one for the job. The result was many nights of sanding, spraying, and cursing. Not cool. In the end I took that gun back to the shop and did my nut. I came back home with the next-next model up for next to no extra cost. It is a "Wagner 180P" and well worth the cost of admission as you will see. After the painting was done, things progressed extremely quickly. Above you'll see a coil of foam stuff. I used this to edge around the screen. This combined with the painted perspex ensures no chassis metal is seen, and also keeps dust out as it is a very tight fit. Stops vibration too. Here you can see almost everything is installed. You'll also see that I hinged the control panel. The reason being that it made it much easier to roll it through doorways. Folded up, the unit depth is quite shallow. The cab also sits on 4 swivel castors for extremely easy moving. And finally. Mortal Kombat playing off a PS3. The cables and console are in the little cubby hole off to the left there. The control panel uses an Xin Mo PS3/PC board. Not the best, but works well. Also have Hyperspin running, and quite a few different games. Unfortunately I didn't get any pics of the inside. The pc is mounted in a chopped down case, which is really just a motherboard tray and PSU holder now. PC runs an AMD dual core, and an Nvidia 8600GT, which is quite decent for MAME and HLSL enabled. Looks fantastic. Thanks for viewing. I'm sorry I missed quite a few details out. But hopefully I'll get time to go through and fill in the gaps soon.
  8. Can anyone vouch for using a forstner to do holes by hand? My drill press is too shallow to do most control panels.
  9. Very nice! Quite clean. What do all the glowy buttons do? Do they get annoying? (I'm a welder by trade so I naturally shy away from bright lights in my peripheral vision) Sent from my LT26w using Tapatalk
  10. Doesn't seem like he was planning on it? :-D Sent from my LT26w using Tapatalk
  11. I've found a 27mm holesaw cuts at 28mm due to wobble and teeth flare. Usually... For perspex I prefer a spade bit. On mdf, you really need to either drill from both sides, or clamp it to scrap. Some people swear by a forstner bit for mdf too. I only use a hole saw for steel now. They clog up to easily with mdf Sent from my LT26w using Tapatalk
  12. HLSL is definitely good! I've experimented with different graphics cards for it, and found the minimum you can get away with is an Nvidia 8600gt. Bonus is it can run quite a few other games too. Great cab. Very crisp looking. Sent from my LT26w using Tapatalk
  13. I'd suggest these guys if possible. Not the project Mame place. I could also design and plan out something for you, building it yourself isn't hard. Just point me in the right direction. Alternatively, Aussie has a *lot* of old cabinets that can be refurbished. In fact I recommend getting an old cab to muck about with first. Get a feel for it, try a few games and see what you want to do. Do you want a big bulky all in one control panel? What sort of games do you want on it? An example is my old Vulgus cab. I converted that to 4:3 19" lcd, and it's one player only, or two players alternating. Controls from left to right are 8way stick, button 1 and 2, 4way in the center, button 1, 2, 3 and a trackball. This works perfect for trackball and spinner games, pacman style or 4way. And the 8way for 3 button or less, fighters, shooters, platformers etc. Then I also have a cab which has the typical 2 joysticks and 6 buttons per player. Great for beat'em'ups and everything in between. No other controls on that. Another thing to try is grab romlister, and see which games use which controls. Also, draw out control panel layouts on paper, do the ones you like, to full scale and move your hands around them. Above all, once you have chosen your path, create a plan, and keep planning your plans! Plan plan plan, play! Good luck! Feel free to message me for cab plans. Sent from my LT26w using Tapatalk
  14. Looks great! Very clean and well put together. Question I have though, is what do all the extra buttons on the control panel do? I see the mame labels in the center of course, and I think start buttons to the left and right? Maybe I answered my own question... I have a habit of hiding the mame buttons, except for pause. And when I use an ipac I just use the shift button for special functions. Cuts out a hell of a lot of clutter. Sent from my LT26w using Tapatalk
  15. Haha thanks Alex! No side art on this beast. I didn't get many pics of the progress on the control panel unfortunately. Cut and holesawed 1.2mm sheet steel, zinc coated. Originally it was going to be both the perspex and steel recessed into the cp box. Test fitting and glue + clamp the bits together. What you don't see is that a few odds and ends of MDF were joined together. Why waste it? The trick is to get it perfectly flat and seamless. And lastly, the trial fit to see how it's coming along. I never decided on a final distance from the screen for the CP in the initial design, so about here I started to experiment. Quickest easiest way to mask out the perspex for painting. Leave the protective crap on, and cut your shape with a sharp knife. You won't see the cut marks as long as you don't go past your corners. Another quick trial fit. Drilling the holes. it's best to use the spade bit. Easier to control. Use light pressure, fast speed. Too much pressure causes it to bite and chip the perspex off. Not cool. And a trial fit of the screen perspex and also the control panel perspex.
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