hicks100

Anyone have an idea how many Amps a standard williams knocker draws? Im thinking of getting an additional 24v psu to drive mine.. (havnt managed to work out how to measure the amps being drawn with me multimeter yet!)

OK i feel pretty dumb but Problem Solved! It was the ground from the ledwiz, it was loose I did check this already but just goes to show, check, check and check again! Now the bad part, the new power supplies have not solved the cut out problem. I know someone else mentioned that they had to get the shaker off the same power supply to stop their cut out issue so maybe i still need to do this. Hows everyone else getting on with running all toys of 1 psu? And thanks for your help guys, much appreciated

It works fine with the old PC PSU but wont fire any thing with the new PSU's. With the PC PSU I get some cut out with contactors etc when lots of stuff starts firing, so i figured the PSU wasnt up to the job. Thats why i got the seperate regulated supplies. I know the new PSU's are working as there are case fans wired into the loop which work when i power up, also the front cab buttons are 12v and they light up. Its just anything controlled by the ledwiz that wont work with them. Well thanks for taking a look, ill keep playing around and see if i can stumble accross the problem, guess the worst case is ill just have to go back to the old PC PSU and live with the cut out now and again

OK Thanks Max, Here is the current layout: Now before i added the 2 psu's it was the same only the 12 and 5v supply were comming from 1 psu (a PC PSU), and everthing worked fine. All i did was swapped out the old psu for the 2 new ones, without changing anything else, but now nothing will fire. Tried the knocker attached directly to the 12v PSU and it works. You mentioned that a supply must be attached to the LEDwiz banks 1-4 but i never had this before with the PC PSU and it worked fine. I Just swapped out the 12v psu back to the old PC PSU and everthing works again so the ledwiz is still fine. It just wont fire anything with the new PSU's

All the grounds go into a bank of terminal blocks then there is one wire running from the terminal block to the -V on the power supply. The same for the lives which then goto a +V The gear and knocker are on there own -V and +V With a multi meter across the terminal blocks, im getting 12v. This is the same as i had it set up with the PC PSU. Didnt change anything apart from popping the molex connector of the PSU end and attaching the + and _ to the new PSU terminals. EDIT: OK so i tested the psu and knocker by wiring the knocker + & - stright to the PSU Terminals, Worked fine. Up untill now ive not been running any + into the 4 ports on the ledwiz, maybe this could be the issue..? from the manual i could never see the benefit of running external power directly into the ledwiz, Is there any benefit to running external + into these ports?

OK i got a bit stumpped here, Bought a couple of regulated power supplies on ebay. A 250watt 12v 20amp like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180552656437&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT Also a 5v 8a from the same place to power me cree's. Previously i was using a conventional PC power supply, but was getting some cut out when lots of things started firing. For some reason i cant get any contactors/gears/shaker or led's to fire with these supplies. The 12v and 5v Supplies are working because there powering case fans fine, but none of the toys will fire with it?? I checked the outputs with a multi meter and am getting a stable 12v from the outputs. Anyone have an ideas why this might be? thanks..

"I am thinking I will replace my PacLED64 with 2 led-wizs" Just a heads up but ledwiz code only works with 1 led-wiz at the moment, so you will be limited to 32 outputs.

Remember the time i was changing the fuse in a plug, i couldnt be bothered to put the back of the plug on to test the fuse, so i held the side of the casing with me fingers and plugged it in.... BOOM Arced onto me hand, and i wouldnt have beleived it if someone had said, but it actually blew me across the room, i think the current made me legs jolt and it threw me back about 7 foot. Damn that hurt, had intense pins and needles down one side for about 2 minutes and didnt know where i was I have quite a bit of respect for electricity after that

Oh damn, Yep that makes sense. Time to pull things apart again The contactors were not firing always, after the wiper motor had fired, i guess this might be the reason.

Thanks so much for this, i only wish there was something like this about when i started building. I just installed my knocker, shaker and wiper motor yesterday. All is working but i notice you have suggested placing the diode across A1 and A2 on the relay. I have actually placed my diodes across the + and - on the device terminals, ie across the kickers + and -. Would this still do the same job? thanks.