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ZacUSNYR

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Everything posted by ZacUSNYR

  1. I went and wired up the coin door switches and the lights. Prepped the wiring to add the trackball light as well. Had a bulb out, told ray and he went off to the interweb and ordered some new LED replacement bulbs heh.
  2. We should rename this to the never ending project lol. We got the control panel buttons wired up to the ipac today Got to play a couple games with the controls.
  3. Well hot dog HyperSpin is back! (Although this site is nearly unusable with the speed of it for me right now? Assume it's being crushed.). We cut our plexi for our control panel and marquee. Ray and I mirrored our progress on our blog with a new update. http://www.battlenerds.com/groups/hyperspin-arcade-project/forum/topic/corny-and-rayzors-hyperspin-arcade-machine/
  4. Got some updates. Been putting it off for awhile but decided I was sick of the ugly white plug coming out the back from the power strip. Looked out of place and was too short. Looks over kill, but it sure is sweet lol Used a 15' 14awg appliance chord wired into a pvc box with tubing. Up front for the control panel we have two usb devices (ipac and trackball) - so we wired up two USB ports up front. Next up - lighting for the marquee. We have our own power supply for these lights and another output on the power supply for the lights in the coin buttons. I work for a convenience store which has 300+ ATMs in our stores. I have some friends in our department that maintains the ATMs and they bought a bunch of used ATMs for parts - the used ones came with a marquee with LED lights in it. 4 strips are part of a "set"- We used 4 sets. The ATMs only used one. These suckers are bright. So Ray was in charge of finding a way to mount the lights. We bounced a bunch of ideas back and forth and then found this reflexive "bubble wrap" stuff. And some aluminum tape. This is what Ray came up with. It works well - we need to add some to the sides. From the back Wired up - we're both a big fan of organized wiring. So we've put some time into that detail of not having a disorganized wire mess. Next up -flip the power switch. We taped in the LEDs and then said "I hope it works because undoing all this will suck" lol An "out of focus" shot of the lights And a direct shot of the light They are extremely bright. I looked at the lights and flipped the switch and it had me seeing spots afterward heh. Hope it doesn't wash out the marquee. Stay tuned for more updates once Ray can help further Next up I think we're going to tackle the plexi glass on the top of the control panel and finish tabbing that up.
  5. So I made Ray help me clean up the garage a little bit - built some shelving so that wasted some time. We mounted the control panel to the cabinet. We had to modify our existing design slightly. A place to set down some 2x4 mounts. Which will be mounted inside the control panel. Couple clamps on each side, accesible through the coin door make it easily removable. Next we needed to fill in the bottom part of the control panel so it didn't have a huge gap on the overhang sides. Then we decided to load it up with buttons to see what it looked like. Layout feels good
  6. Didn't get much done today because my garage was torn up. Had to make room for my new toy. We boxed in the control panel, found our angle/height (it looks tall but it's on a rolling stand right now) Cutting some pieces on the table saw I think this goes here? I wish one of us knew math heh
  7. Ray's wife is calling our Arcade stupid. I'm going to buy ray a whip so he can put her in her place.
  8. Ray ended up picking up a VGA-to-S-video converter from monoprice and we messed around with that. Really cleaned up the video and makes the NES look like a real NES. We were both shocked how much better it improved the video. Plus it has controls to resize/move the image around the screen We messed with that for a little while and then brain stormed the control panel. I'll be 100% honest and say we have no effing clue what we're doing here. So we just winged it :lol Ray plowed a couple holes through for the center escape button and the player 1 and 2 buttons on the top. I'm pretty decent with AutoIt and will probably be making a custom menu launched by the red button. Ray had to open up the corners of the recess for the track ball to fit - looks good. This sucker is going to be nearly flush with the plexi glass over it. No screw holes through the plexi We had no clue how to mount this thing with the hardware provided so we used our resources to do it the best way we could think of. Next up with cutting the shape of the control panel. We cut one angle and i'll admit, I butchered it due to a slip of the saw. My heart sank We added another cut and it actually added to the shape of the control panel and it was a good save because we both think it looks great. Now we started on the "box" for the control panel. This is way more complicated then we first imagined. But we got it figured out and started cutting/assembling. Just need to do the 3 pieces for the front and cut the button to fit. Then we need to figure out where to mount some support to "snap" the control panel into the arcade. Starting to get exciting because we'll be playing this "turd" shortly! Then we need to get the ambition to tear it down and paint/finish it lol
  9. Hey look a rare update has been spotted lol So we got together and stared at what we had with the CNC machine and then we basically had to figure out where we left off. Ohhh yea... we remember. We have 3/4" wood with controls designed for half inch wood. So we measured out areas we needed to bring down to 1/2". This was really time consuming so we had to do multiple passes with a smaller bit at different depths. We went for the full 1/4" on one pass and found we were tearing the wood a little bit. Looks good, the thinning up top we haven't cut the holes for the buttons yet. Next up is the trackball. We wanted this thing flush and for the life of us couldn't figure out how you'd mount it flush, short of mounting it to a piece of metal that was flushed to the wood. So we began that cut out. Hole with a beveled edge for the metal to stay on
  10. SzmU9QTV3IE CNC on crack - yes it takes awhile in real life speed, 30 seconds in the youtube clip made from over 4 minutes of video.
  11. Yea we didn't get a lot done but we got enough done to say we did something lol Started the day off by having ray update a ton of software on the machine and make the HS install cooler Then cut out the control panel piece (twice, since I dropped it and crushed a corner) heh Then we brought it over to Ray's fathers garage and we got to designing the button layout. Then we put Ray's father to work. Took a Sega 8-button layout, spaced out the joystick more and dropped 2 buttons. (we're doing a 6 button layout) Then we ran it on some scrap (which was warped) and figured we'd just go for it. Now we just gotta get a piece of plexi and cut the holes out for the joystick/buttons/trackball in that. We're still working on the control panel, need to get the P1/2 buttons/esc button/ and the trackball.
  12. Project is going to be stalled for a little bit - Rayzor has a new addition to his family as of Friday the 25th. Congrats Ray! (Pictured is baby Ray)
  13. From the capital district - little ways from you
  14. Took a video of Hyperspin running YOjgRzaZhjE
  15. Put it all back together. Think we're ready to start on the control panel, finally! (although we still have to put the back together/on) Keep in mind, this thing is sitting on a wheel dolly - the sides would sit on the floor if it wasn't.. On final assembly it'll be on leveler feet.
  16. Next up we did the coin door - measured out where we had to cut and had at it with the jig saw. After some fine tuning/sanding we got it to fit. Oh duh - one issue we never thought about, the thickness of the coin doors clamps. just shy of 3/4" which means it's meant to clamp against 3/4" wood. We used 1/2" for the front because 3/4" would be kinda excessive IMO. Out came a solution with the miter saw.
  17. So it was 45 degrees Saturday so I made Ray work on this thing. We got this large bezel and we have no clue how to mount the thing. Figured we'd cut it and then figure that out. First - let me say these things are cheap. The plastic cracks easy. BE VERY CAREFUL. We put a good size crack in it where it starts to form and I did an emergency super glue fixed. Then we were really cautious and how no more issues. Got it cut down and then had to figure out how to mount it. We're putting glass over the entire front and we're going to get the glass vinyled so only the screen/inside of the bezel is visible. So we figured we'd just pre-drill/screw it in with some flat top screws. You can't see it in the pictures but the curvature on the screen bezel was much greater then the curvature of the glass. So we used foam to fill up the gap - actually came out looking pretty good.
  18. We started Saturday off by ripping all the wiring/PC components out and wiring it up nicely. We also have to move the speaker amp to the top of the cabinet, it was picking up interference from the TV. Doesn't look like we grabbed any final pictures of the wiring but here is the mounting. For the powersupply, we cut out a piece of MDF that was larger then the power supply, unscrewed the powersupply cover from the powersupply. Drilled holes through the wood where the screws to put the cover back on go and screwed the cover into the wood. Then we mounted the cover back to the powersupply. Fits perfect Harddrive was moved as well. Next up we fired up the computer and worked on getting the display looking good and getting our DD-WRT loaded buffalo router to work as a bridge (ie. higher powered, longer range, wireless-g network card) F6QDulZt1gY And of course Ray decided he had to see if MAME worked by playing Splatter House with a Keyboard Then we cut and put on the front. 6 hours of work and that's we got done. Now we gotta take the front off and get the opening for the coin door cut. Like usual, more to come
  19. Most computers have an option in the bios with what to do on power restore, most are set by default to "Do nothing" or "Last state". The board we're using has a setting for "Power on". So as soon as power is reinstated to the machine it turns on.
  20. We'll be using an IPAC USB once get around to the control panel
  21. I went over there today and got the video outputting to the TV.
  22. Trust us we'd love to rush it, we just know how we want it to come out. It's funny we go to work on this thing, get all these plans to do "do this, and that, and that". Then we start working on the first thing, 6 hours later, it's exactly how we're happy with it. And we didn't get anything else on the list done heh. We're thinking we're going to let the CNC machine give us a perfect (and recessed) hole cutout for the coin door too.
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