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About mattdavis

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  • Birthday 07/28/1968


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    bham, al usa
  1. Hello, I recently upgraded my hard drive and decided to re-install HP, VP, and FP from scratch. Everything works except this one thing, and after a number of google searches, I can't find where anyone else has had this issue (but I seem to recall it coming up when FP-LedWiz was new). I have FP working with Ledwiz - as long as I don't launch the table from Hyperpin. VP via hyperpin has no issue. I have polled over the fplaunch.ahk script, and I don't see anything that would disable the ledwiz. I tried removing all ledwiz stuff from hyperpin/fplaunch, updated settings.ini,etc.. with no luck. I did see where one post suggested FutureDMD might be an issue, but I can run them together fine (outside of Hyperpin). Anyone have any suggestions on where to look next? Thanks, Matt
  2. Hi Deegor, I was wondering when this would hit. Been looking forward to it! I will definitely take a look. I have been waiting on additional work on my ledwiz.ini pending this. THANKS! Unfortunately I will be out of town starting Monday for a few weeks, so I won't be able to offer much immediately. I will see about uploading a few this weekend and submit for public use. Without really getting to play with it much, what I am about to suggest might already be part of it or programatically prohibitive : It would be nice to have the possibility of multiple public configs for any single table (ie; AFM liberal (lots of flasher/shaker/etc...) V AFM conservative (less flasher/shaker). One of my gripes with the previous system was the over-the-top use of the shaker, often at high power or 3 or 4 random flashers for what amounts to a single flasher in the actual table. ...maybe a way to share your private tables to others but them not be the 'official public version' would suffice. Additionally, the ability to document verbosely what a switch/flasher/coil value is literally representing on the real table. For example, If I create an entry for SMB, I could document that "S18 is the lower right white flasher". This information would be greatly helpful for others tweaking/creating their own entry, because the manuals are very often not 1:1 for ledwiz (ie; S18 in the manual for SMB is actually S19 for ledwiz). Unless somebody manually sits down and works that out, they can't know this. I have manually written a number of charts when trying to figure out a table that does not match the manual- having a way to share that information would be nice. Thanks again for this! -Matt
  3. FYI: If you are having trouble finding the basic ahk compiler, google this: AutoHotkey104805_Install -Matt
  4. Mine (other than artwork) was just completed. The Nanotech nudge system is unworkable (imo). I rigged 3 independent plumbobs for 3 way nudge. If starting from scratch, I would likely go the sidewinder method. Good luck on your project.
  5. after a bit of searching, I found it on a German (or maybe Bavarian) site. Works fine. If anybody gets stuck and can't find it- pm me.
  6. Hello, I can't locate "basic ahk" on the ahk website. There is a single download button and it directly downloads 'ahk L'. On install there are two options: ansi 32-bit and Uncode 32-bit. Both result in the compiled code failing for different reasons. Can somebody point out my obvious idiocy on not finding a 'basic ahk' download? Thanks, Matt
  7. I had issues with them also many months ago. I ordered some parts and they did not send everything. They responded to the first email then stopped. Which is too bad, because they have the flipper buttons I am looking at (per my thread of yesterday) and I don't know where else to get that type.
  8. Why not just order those parts from the links? the specs on parallel ports I have seen show they can well handle the current. However, I recommend you purchase an ATX extension cable and cut it in half to make a jack. It's a lot easier than soldering up the port (I know, I started down that same path). -Matt
  9. You don't need a relay for the contactors. The knocker will need a 12v relay (relaying 24v) unless you use Zebulon's Ledwiz Booster Boards (not sure they are still available). You need diodes on any coil based device (contactors and relay, not sure about the gear motor). Fuses should be 500ma, but if you have the booster board, you don't need a fuse bank.
  10. You might wait and see if one of the electrical experts reply before blowing it totally off, but I don't recall seeing anyone's build use a combined PS before - and 104w sure sounds tiny.
  11. I did that. Since I am just now reaching the final stages of the build, I am not too sure how well it will work, but initial play testing suggests it works fine and it is easily adjustable.
  12. Hi Jaron, It seems to be cutting things close. The amp ratings are likely fudged 'best case' and at those numbers, it seems like a slim margin. I used a dedicated 24v and used a salvage PC power supply for 5v/12v (400w). It barely makes it, but I also have a car amp for audio running off of it. Matt
  13. The BestBuy Dynex 15.5" (or so) I purchased has the advantage of auto-starting when AC is turned on (my 32" dynex does as well). -Matt
  14. Hi Randy, My LedWiz is new and I will be glad to try, but it won't be until this weekend. I am just to the stage of setting up tables and have not played enough to find one that has an issue. Anyone know a sure fire ledwiz caused stuttering table? It seems Monopoly has a reputation of always having stutter issues- but I am not sure if its problem is ledwiz related or not.
  15. I am not a Watchman fan (don't know anything about it), but the art looks as good as anything you would expect from Bally/Wlms at their best. The mock up even looks completely real. The button stickers are a really cool touch. If I can ever figure out my artwork, I hope it lends itself to this type of add-on. Great job! -Matt
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