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devilFist

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About devilFist

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  1. I tried to email the Samsung contact again at [email protected], but my email was returned. The phone number was to San Jose, CA, at 1-408-544-4331. I'll try to contact again, but you may try yourself. Maybe it would be possible to get a deal for Hyperspin members.
  2. I spoke with Samsung's rep for the Americas today. He was helpful, but so far those displays are for wholesale only. He said they could sell us a pallet, but would not break one apart, so that would mean (40) units. Definitely do not need that many! I asked if there were other options, and he said he'd check it out and email me. Didn't seem too optimistic about it, though. I really do not want to redesign my cab and have a huge 13" tall LG. I would bezel out a bit so the display would be more properly proportional with the main display, but it will still add 5-6" to the machine! I'm still going to try to find another option, but may have to settle for the LG. Someone told me to check electronic surplus dealers, but no luck yet. Any ideas on where to even look for these things? I got some quotes from companies that charge $2k for one!
  3. Yeah, I'm trying to get more info. I emailed Samsung, so will see what they say. I think I saw that the 37 came out sometime in 2016, and I saw a "coming soon" label for the 29. If they're reasonably priced, I will want one, and would be willing to go in on a group purchase.
  4. Looks great, I really like the black buttons with RGB glowing around them, wish I had thought of it. I'm also looking for a good LCD marquee. Samsung now has 32:9 stretched screens, but I haven't found a price or distributor yet. I'll contact Samsung to get more info. Models I'm looking at are: LSI370LN01, 35.8" x 10.5" or LSI290LN01, 28.2" x 8.3" I'm not sure if the "0" is "O" or reverse. These are open cell displays. If you want the cased version, replace the "I" with "T". If anyone else has info on these or similar displays, please let me know. I imagine the native LCDs will be cheaper than a cut one. I had been looking at 16:3 BAR style screens, but they are crazy expensive.
  5. Oh My Gawd!!!... The Flaming... um... er... better be the last time I revise these dag-nabbed designs! I'm proposing something different. I want to save space and reduce the size of my upcoming cab, so I think I will mount the stereo receiver and a secondary screen into the Control Panel, rather than the face of the cab. I saw a cab some time ago where somebody had a movie playing on a secondary screen while games were on the main screen. I thought it totally sucked! I do, however, want to be able to display instructions, high scores, etc. on a secondary screen. No drinks are ever going to be allowed on the machine (I have a bar in my room for this) so I'm thinking this would be safe for the C-P. I want to have players standing about 30" from the screen, since there may be 4 players viewing a 40". I had planned on putting the secondary screen below my main display, which fits aesthetically and logically... but in the ongoing quest to reduce the machine's footprint, I've yet again changed it's layout. 30" from screen means C-P edge is about 26" from the tinted glass. I've reduced the depth of the entire machine, with C-P, to 36", so will make a fixed C-P, (instead of removable one with a 36" deep body which made an overall 42" deep machine). The body (side panel) is now 27" deep. Due to display size, the interior cab width is still 38", so with sides it'll be about 39.5" wide. The C-P will be a whopping 66" inches at it's widest, to accommodate (4) adults. I also planned on a little extra space around the trackball so surrounding joysticks and buttons won't get in the way. After making my test C-P with (2) joysticks and the trackball, I realized that I probably included a little more space than is really necessary around the trackball, so the overall C-P width may decrease slightly as I continue to modify things (will this ever end?!?). My C-P was so large, (how large was it) that there was going to be significant real estate for artwork on it. No problem, I can find more art, but it seemed kind of like wasted space. By adding the receiver and a second screen, I can kill whatever with whatever... birds in hand or bush or mouth or grave or shut the "f" up. I already have (43) rgb buttons I had planned on using, but now have become enamored with the idea of adding a 4-player coindoor to the cab, which reduces my needs by (4). I will have to slightly change the base design and reduce the sexy, sexy curves... but an illuminated coindoor with functional buttons would be ultra-cool. I saw a 4-player version recently on sale for about $140 new, is that what you have found? I could use the remaining buttons for additional admin buttons, but I'm really not sure I'd want more than (4) or (5) with one being a shift key. Also, I had planned on programming the coin buttons as a select key for console games, and using the coindoor buttons in lieu of a button next to a start button is no substitute. I have reduced the overall height of my design to 78" to the top of the top panel. I still want to have the sides extend at least an inch or two above this, to help hide some of the square iron I will be using to frame the surround speakers. I will have a Super Mario Bros. artwork theme, so I thought I'd paint any square iron that is visible sky-mario-blue. Along with the vinyl artwork I'll order, I will include dimensions for the (4) speakers and pictures so I can have Lakitu, and maybe flying koopa, sun, cloud, etc. for the others. Center channel speaker has been repositioned above the monitor and AimTrak sensor, so with the new height and design it should be aligned with the surrounds nicely. I may have to have the PC rotated at an angle to fit into the smaller base size, but no big deal. I had toyed with the idea of wiring the blu-ray player/recorder to the front of the machine... but why? Realistically I will almost never use it. I'm not sure how physically stable this thing will be. I have over 100 lb. lead I can use as ballast, but I really wanted to use that for my cocktail cabinet. I guess I'll just have to see how tipsy the thing is. I will not use casters as originally planned. If I have to move it I'll use a dolly. Just looking at it on paper, it seems like the center of gravity will be within the base, and even with vigorous button pounding, I think it will remain solid. Rock on Brothers
  6. Ok, tonight I'll revise my design once again. Some versions have sound controls below the screen (better but eats up space), others below the C-P (although probably won't need to regularly adjust, still a pain to access during gameplay). I would like to use the area below the screen for sound controls and a secondary screen, but center channel above screen would be at a poor angle, so I'll need to modify that part. I'm using an old stereo receiver for 5.1, and will wire the subwoofer controls next to it, but hadn't considered separate sound control on the C-P. I think a mute button may be nice, but not sure how necessary another volume knob would be. The receiver has a nice power button I will use to power up the rig. I plan on using a separate power button to turn on the PC, hidden underneath the C-P. I want to minimize the complexity of the C-P. Players need flexibility, but I figured a lessor number of admin buttons would present a clean appearance while maintaining gaming functionality. Do you really use many that cannot be mapped to unused player buttons (especially #3 or 4)? For some games I'll use guns, pads/original console joysticks, and even keyboard/mouse, but I agree that to preserve a clean look, these will be stowed away unless in use. As far as instructions go, I do not want much in the artwork. I have not experimented with it yet, but there is a 3rd party, secondary screen app to display additional info on a second screen. I'm sure more of these will be developed, and want to use them to display instructions. Buttons are rgb, so instructions can easily and effectively be done graphically for player controls. I had considered "dirtying up" the C-P with admin button instructions, though. Thanks again for any advice or suggestions you may have, and yes... sweat loaf with leg kicks may just be the greatest rock n roll performance of all time.
  7. Here is the video of plexi sandwiching artwork on a control panel. It's part of a long series, so you can see other steps in its construction as well. The author points out how the plexi slightly sticks up above the T-molding on the edge, which I don't like, but overall I like his work. (Part 23) MAME Cabinet CP Build - YouTube
  8. Thanks for the responses. I can get wordy, so I'll try to limit responses to a few topics to follow up on: Personal Choices I appreciate the fact that others not only voice their opinions, but also give a rationale for them. I know MDF has many benefits, but the benefits of plywood outweigh them for my situation. Thanks for the input though. I will, however, switch to 3/4" for the sides to accommodate T-molding and to look a little better. Height: my designs call for side panels 79" tall, which will extend about 1" above the top panel. This will allow me to hide square-iron for the (4) L/R speakers, which I would like to hang above head-level. I could shorten it a little. (Above I stated cab width to be 36", but it is actually 38") I'm about 6' tall, and designed the cab so I could comfortably play while standing. Control Panel is at about 40" sloping up at 4.8 degrees, and the top of the screen is at 70". I have a little room to play with, but doubt I can shorten the cabinet to standard height. I had planned on mounting the screen at a 90 degree vertical. Many commercial arcade machines had users looking down at an angled screen. If I did this, I would be able to shorten the height of the cab a bit more, but I'm not sure I really want to. Any suggestions? (10) buttons per player?!? Yes, I know most games do not require this. Each player will have a start and coin button, as well as (8) play buttons. This is, of course, to play console games... specifically N64 which only requires one analog stick and up to (14) other inputs. Some other consoles also use more than the standard arcade (4) button setup for 3rd and 4th players. No, I don't plan on making a "franken-CP" or a home version of the Steel Battalion controller. Yes, I only planned on installing (3) system buttons. I had thought I would make one a shift button. This way, I could assign lesser used functions to some lesser used player buttons with the shift, but still have dedicated pause and back buttons. What other admin functions do you regularly use, that you think is critical I add? Coindoor: I originally included one in my earlier designs. My cabinet shares some features with, but will be quite distinct from, traditional arcade cabs. I don't think the appearance will suffer without a coindoor, but it does add a certain feel to the machine regardless. I will think about this a little more. Interrupting the artwork on the front of the base will not be horrible, and I always thought that even a non-functioning coindoor with illuminated buttons looks good. I'm guessing I can modify the return buttons to be rgb, then LED-blinky them with the rest of my buttons. [Just a side note concerning coin mechs or features missing from this design: I do plan on making two other arcade machines in the near future to accommodate different games. One will be a cocktail table using a barrel as the base. I will install (2) servosticks on one side, and a trackball and a spinner on the other. No coin mech planned for this setup, but it will have the "clicky" feel for 2D fighters, be great for shmups, and also be my go-to machine for centipede/arkanoid type games. The other machine will be a decked-out HyperPin table using three monitors and a crap-load of solenoids, as well as a gear motor, knocker, shaker, nudge/tilt sensor, blower, rgb array, and more. The pinball table will have the most traditional appearance, and I am going to include a coin mech. My man-palace (man-cave doesn't even begin to describe it) does not have a true-replica feel for an arcade, so I do not think I would ever regret foregoing a coindoor on my main cabinet]... Daddy... Yes son... What does regret mean?... sorry, couldn't resist the BHS reference. Glass over Screen So I will use tinted glass in front of my screen. What thickness is adequate? Any vibration dampening? I will have a subwoofer in my cab, so it'll be shaking! I will ask local glass companies about minimizing glare. I'm worried about this on the glass, mostly from either the screen or the rgb buttons. Control Panel I had seen a youtube video where some guy put plexi on top of his control panel artwork, and it looked really good. Only a small hole for each button and joystick, and the dust shields for the joysticks were under the artwork. Obviously, he did not use the adhesive backing to his vinyl, or the dust shields would stick to it. Though it is a bit of work, I was impressed with the results and wanted to mimic this aspect of his design. I'll try to find the video and post it so others can comment. Also, I was dreading the thought of trying to smoothly install graphics with the adhesive backing. The U360 shafts are not as easily removable as other models are, so I thought I would have to install the joysticks without tops, then place the vinyl over the shafts -- what a pain! Sandwiching artwork between plexi and wood would eliminate the hassle of trying to deal with the adhesive. Alternatively: Although I haven't tried to disassemble a U360 yet, it looks like (4) philips screws hold the base plate and the rest of the stick together. I think if I remove these, I could stick the vinyl to the control panel and x-acto holes for the joysticks. These screws, however, go into plastic, and I would rather avoid weakening it by working the screws again and again. Shouldn't be a big deal if I only do it once (and there are ways to repair damage), but overall I like the plexi idea better. Also, if using the adhesive, the dust shields would have to be on top of the artwork. What drawbacks are there to covering the panel? Sure, fingerprints and smudges will really show and require regular cleaning, and plexi can be scratched or cracked, but are there other negatives I'm missing? I do think glass would look and feel better, but am concerned it may crack more easily. Also, I have no way to cut holes into glass, and would have to pay someone to do this. T-Molding I wanted to use it for the side panel edges, but now think I'll also use it on the control panel. Not as many people use it for the horizontals framing their marquee, but I was also considering this. Anyone tried it and have pictures? Other I have a 2.0 USB hub I had planned on installing, but maybe now I'll order a 3.0. I will have it, bliss-box, and maybe a mic or headphone I/O beneath the screen and center channel speaker. I will only have access to my pc through the back of the cab and do not want to deal with it often, so will route most of the inputs to the front of my cab. I'll be routing ethernet, power, and coaxial to a panel on the back of the cab. Are there any other I/O's I should be thinking about? I was planning on keeping my pc in its case, which has good airflow through it. I've already planned air intakes and airflow to the exhausts for components that will generate heat. I was thinking of straps to secure it, but not too worried about figuring this out. My subwoofer, on the other hand, I had planned on mounting to the inside of the cab. This will create vibrations, and I may need to play with it a bit to find the best position, or use dampeners. Sound engineers out there with suggestions? No plans for Aimtrak holsters. I want a clean look, so had thought I'd keep these separately stored (along with wireless keyboard/mouse and gamepads) and only hook them up when using them. Any comments on this plan? Thanks again, looks like I wrote enough for people to deal with for now!
  9. Well, I'm finally going to have some time to build my cabinet... took awhile, darn career getting in the way of my games! Anyway, I have several issues I'd like to hear opinions and advice on, but I just realized I left all my notes and schematics at work. I'll add more questions and corrections later, since my memory may not be 100% accurate. Basic design info: about 7 feet tall, 36" wide, and 36" deep (without control panel, which I plan on making removable). 4-player U360 with (10) rgb buttons per player, (2) aimtrak, (1) rgb trackball with (3) system rgb buttons. 40" LCD, 5.1 sound, secondary and tertiary LCD's, LCD marquee. Emulating arcade and console games. 1. I would like to have glass or plexiglass over the screen. I like the "depth" feeling from standard arcade cabinets with the monitor behind a protective layer. I think I would prefer glass over plexi for this application. My questions are: (a) is there a material type that better minimizes glare? (b) how much of a gap between the screen and the glass? (c) what angle off the vertical should the glass and screen be mounted, keeping in mind possible reflections from screen onto glass? (d) "smoked" glass looks cool, but does it dull colors or otherwise impair viewing? I will be playing some games in 1080p. 2. I would like to have glass or plexiglass over my control panel's artwork: (a) I do not want any visible screws/clamps/etc. The buttons will hold it in place, but will I need to secure it better (especially near edges)? (b) also, the edge must look good. T-molding to cover both plexi and wood, or any other options? (c) for this application glass has great advantages, but since it will receive more wear and tear, maybe plexi is better? (d) what angle off the horizontal should the top of the panel be (I think my design was close to 5 degrees)? 3. I want hinges to lift the top of my control panel: (a) need to be able to access Ipac/interface and controls for maintenance (a) must be heavy-duty enough to lift the panel with all electronics attached and hold open (b) when closed, all seams/lines should be as invisible as possible 3. T-molding for side panels' edges? (a) I kinda like keeping the wood slightly rounded, smoothly sanded, and painted a relevant color for the artwork, but am worried about the edge of the vinyl artwork looking crappy if there is nothing to butt up against. Anyone tried both and can compare? (b) I had planned on using 1/2" plywood. I'm aware of positives/negatives of it vs. MDF. If I use T-molding, however, it seems that options and varieties of T-molding in 1/2" is quite limited. I thus figured 3/4" plywood would be better for the sides (I was already using some for other parts that needed a little more strength than the 1/2"), but still want to keep the weight down. I guess I don't have a specific question about this, just wondering what other people have done and think? 4. Casters for movability? (a) Originally, I planned on putting casters in the rear two corners, and solid feet in the front two. Now I'm thinking I will rarely have to re-position the cabinet, so not only will this be unnecessary, but the casters may allow a little more "wiggle" than solid feet, which in the heat of competitive play may be annoying. Has anyone tried this with good/bad results? (b) What kind of feet should I use? I figure I should leave at least a 1/4" gap between cabinet and ground to allow both airflow and the possibility that carpet or soft flooring may affect how close the cabinet really is to the floor. If there are four feet, the cabinet may teeter if they are not adjustable. 5. USB and other inputs? (a) I will put a powered USB hub right below the screen for Aimtrak guns, gamepads, and other needs. Is there any need for 3.0 USB? Is there a simple way to secure the Aimtrak/gamepad cables so they are not accidentally unplugged/damaged during gameplay? (b) Bliss-Box? I read a bit about it, but need more info. I had purchased an NES-to-USB adapter and was disappointed with the lag... impossible to play Tyson's Punch Out... but Bliss-Box looks promising. (c) I also plan on having an I/O for ethernet, TV coaxial, headphones/mic, and power. Are there any others I should consider? Thanks everyone. Just reading through others' posts has been immensely valuable, and I truly appreciate it. I'll post some pictures when I actually start cutting and things look like they are taking shape. I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions until then.
  10. Yeah, I was already planning on RGB's for the eight player buttons, but I may as well do the system/start buttons as well. I definitely need 8 play buttons per controller, some of the N64 games used the D-pad and almost all of the other 11 buttons (including start and input from analog stick). THQ's wresting games, which I played with my brothers a lot, is an example. Even if I only play these games, and only do so at Thanksgiving/Christmas/etc., it would be worth it for me to be able to step up to a cabinet and bash it out with my brothers. Adding a few buttons and wires is not much of a burden, and my control panel will accommodate all the buttons. I had figured I'd have to use more than one I-Pac to handle all the inputs, I'll check out the Ultimate to do LED's too. Thanks for the suggestion. I agree that a solid slab of wood for the side panels would look quite plain. I guess I didn't explain that I do plan on having cartoon characters on the cab, I just wanted them laser engraved into it and not brightly colored. I would stain it, and the laser leaves a slightly burnt look to the edges that I think is pretty cool. I just haven't found anyone who can do an entire side panel on their machinery yet. I may just put a sticker on it for now, but it will be a pain to take apart panels for work later. I'm pretty sure all the front and control panel surfaces I want artwork on will be small enough for laser engraving, so at least that portion could have that look. I really like single themed cabs, but I still think I'll have more than one on mine. My plans are to have one side Super Mario 3 themed, the other Simpsons. Plenty of characters and artwork to fill up those sides. The front and control panel will not have a whole lot of room for art, but I will fill it with classic characters from games such as Pac-man, Q-bert, Centipede, Joust, Mega man, etc., as well as some of the old company logos like Atari, DataEast, Nintendo, etc. devilFist
  11. Ok, that will leave an unblemished side which will look better in my opinion. For my design, the unit is four feet wide, and the base will go from 38" to 24" deep to where the control panel sits. The base will have three separate compartments: On the left the computer, the right the coin mech and subwoofer, and in the center I want to install glass shelves to hold my classic consoles. The center will be open, probably LED lit, but the other two compartments will be closed and locked. I really planned the airflow through from the exterior rear back bottom, up through the computer, then up over the stereo receiver, into the display area, then out the top of the cabinet. I have a bunch of fans I'll be using. I had not really planned out vents for the subwoofer. I figured an opening through the top of that portion of the base, through the control panel area, then into the display area would provide enough volume. The display area will have exhaust fans, but I hadn't planned any intake to the subwoofer compartment. Should I do this to create a flow, or is just having volume that can expand/contract good enough? The back of the cabinet will be close to, but not touching a wall, so I don't know if I'll get a boost for the subwoofer. I have the sides extending beyond the back panels slightly, to make sure there is adequate air intake. This also allows some room for cables, since I'll have a panel of jacks for power, ethernet, and local tv antenna. I'm not sure if there is any other type of input I'll need back there. I hope to work on the carpentry this summer. I have almost all the hardware, just need to order joysticks/buttons and i-pac. I originally balked at the idea of what I considered "gaudy" looking LED buttons, but now think I will use them. I don't want flashing colors, but think it would be nice to have some games with color-coded buttons. I don't know anything about setting this up, I suppose I would need an LED controller and some software. Anyway, today my homebrew club has its yearly St. Pat's fundraiser, so I'm off to enjoy a feast with great beer! Thanks again for everyone's help. devilFist
  12. Thanks for the replies and tips. Some clarification: The subwoofer: no, I was not going to just install a speaker, it is a powered subwoofer box, but I plan on putting it in the bottom of the cabinet. I was thinking in the right-rear corner, with an opening in the bottom right side of the cab. My stereo receiver will be built into the front of the cabinet, below the display and to the left of the center channel speaker so I can easily operate its controls and make use of its nice on/off switch to turn the whole system on. I want to also take the controls off the powered sub-box, and wire them into the front for even more control over the sound. I am planning on using Ultimarc's i-pac. I had looked at their Ultrastik 360 before, quite costly. Is it analog in the way that it has different intensities of directions, or just in how it functions directionally? I wanted to use the gamepads for this reason, as well as having dual joysticks for first-person-shooters, but it would be awesome to play more games using only the arcade controls. I don't ever anticipate using more than four USB devices at once, so figured I'd put in a powered 5-hub in case I ever wanted one more. In all reality, most will not be used very much. I currently do not even have a light gun or steering wheel, but I'm guessing 2.0 USB is fine? Next to the hub I'll probably install a mic input to my soundcard for games that support it. I loosely based my surround sound speaker setup on a cabinet I saw on a youtube video by Szabo's arcades, My bar is in by garage with taller ceilings. The cabinet will be about 7ft tall, and the surrounds will be elevated even higher. The surround speakers' boxes I will use are slightly larger than 4"x6", so I don't think they will be in the way. Consoles I'm interested in are those I owned or played a lot, especially: Atari 2600/7800; C64; Sega MS, Genesis, and DC; NES, SNES, N64, GC; Neo Geo; and PS1. These systems are a must, others may be nice, but not a priority. I'm crazy busy right now, so this project is going to take some time, but I'll be sure to post pictures. Thanks again, devilFist
  13. I am almost done with the plans for my cabinet, but want to pose a few questions before going too far to modify without foreseeable hassles. Before I continue, I will unfortunately state this, but only once: I know some people kind of enjoy being negative and mocking others. That is fine, you may do as you please as long as no true harm is done, but just realize that I will most likely skip over such nonsense and never reply to it. I admit, while younger, I even participated in similar discourse, but most people grow up and leave it behind. Anyway, I'm not preaching, and will leave it at that. What I want out of my cabinet: The unit will sit next to my home bar. Although some want only pure arcades in their cabinet, I will also use mine to play music, watch videos, play console games, and even some modern PC games (that don't suffer from TV's response speed). I plan on making a four joystick with eight button control panel, with a trackball and system/start/select buttons. I figure I will also incorporate a coin mech. It won't be my main entertainment center, just what I have in my bar. Main Components: i7-4790k CPU, 32GB RAM, GTX 980 GPU, Soundblaster through an old Denon receiver for 5.1 sound, using a 40" LCD TV display. So, what are my questions? 1. I had originally planned on using Happ-style joysticks and buttons, since that is the style I used in arcades as a kid. It seems, however, that there is pretty much a consensus declaring the Japanese components are better for both playing and longevity. When it first came out, I convinced my brothers to chip in and we bought a Neo Geo Gold system, which I believe has the Japanese style controls. It definitely has more sensitive convex buttons and a less springy ball-topped joystick. My question is, has anyone installed either of the major Japanese manufacturer's components and been unhappy with them? I like the bat vs. ball joystick, but that is easily changed, so I'm more concerned with both functionality and longevity of these components. 2. I will be playing console games with Xbox-style USB pads, and will want to be able to take advantage of 4-player games, thus figured on installing a USB hub below my screen and next to my center channel speaker. This would be used for the gamepads, perhaps a steering wheel or light gun, as well as a keyboard mouse combo. Any suggestions? 3. Both the front left/right and the surround left/right speakers will be mounted on framework attached to the top of the cabinet. I thought I'd place the front speakers at the height of the display's top (my height, around 5'11"). I want to mount the surround speakers a few feet behind the players, slightly above their heads, and aiming toward the top of the display. I want it to be a single unit, so will also put the subwoofer inside the bottom right of the cabinet, in the rear. I plan on aiming the subwoofer's speaker out the right side of the cabinet, as opposed to the front or back. Any sound techs who have advice on positioning these speakers? 4. My bar is stained walnut wood and brushed steel. I like this "classy" theme, and want to keep it with the cabinet (though will probably not spend the $ on walnut). Brightly-colored cartoon characters, though I may love them, would not fit here. I've looked into laser-engraving of various plywoods, and the results can be impressive. Unfortunately, I have not found anyone with large enough equipment to work on a side-panel of my arcade cabinet (approximately 82" x 40"). I don't really want to cut the side panels into pieces, so has anyone seen anything like I am looking for? 5. Son of a diddly, stretched LCD's (or 1/3, 1/4 cut) are sooooo expensive! I want to use one for the arcade marquee, and will later be building a HyperPin table, for which I would use one in place of the DMD. I might even use one for or8ital's awesome-looking Helper software! Anyone found an affordable source for these gadgets? I am seeking any comments, questions, or advice. I just recently joined, and have already received some much appreciated assistance. Can't wait to get this project completed, so any help would be fantastic! devilFist
  14. Hello everyone, I am new to emulations, but have been gaming since I owned an Atari 2600 and spent most my allowances on cartridges or at arcades. I now have some nephews and nieces who are coming of age to appreciate the delights of a traditional arcade, so I am building a HyperSpin arcade cabinet and a HyperPin table. The 80's may be gone, but I hope to capture the pure joy of these games for the next generation. I've been having some trouble setting up Hyperspin, specifically with HyperspinHQ. Windows 10 keeps kicking me out of the program. Does anyone have any ideas as to this issue? thanks as always, devilFist
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