copperfacejack Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 If I might crave your indulgence please, I'd really appreciate yet more advice. I am in the process of wiring an iPac Encoder in a cabinet, all the buttons are mapped out OK except as follows. On the Encoder, I have two points marked !A & !B, and similarly on the other side, 2A & 2B. On the cabinet I have four buttons as yet unused. Two are on the front panel, to the right hand side and sited below the monitor, and these are quite close together. The other two are on the side panels (where you'd have flippers, were it a pinball). The two on the side I'd like to set up in Hyperspin so that they boot up and shut down the cabinet. I'm not asking how to shell windows etc, and I know I can shut down the cab from within the HS settings, but I just wanted to know whether it mattered which switch I wired to which point on the encoder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazsnk Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 If i read correctly what your after,you dont need the Ipac to power up and shutdown your cabinet, just use a standard atx case power switch and snip the end of on he power button and use the 2 wire's to connect to a standard pushbutton, one push on one push off you only need one pushbutton not two, hope this helps.... you tube video Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacketj Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 The !A, !B, 2A, 2B are just more buttons you can hook up. I'm using them as my pinball buttons on the sides of my control panel. And I agree with gazsnk. You just need to hook a button up the the motherboards 'Power' headers to turn the computer on. Once the computer is running, Windows has a setting where pushing that same button again will shutdown the computer. And/Or you can set up Hyperspin to shut down the system when you exit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copperfacejack Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 OK, thanks fella's, not too sure what the cable in the picture does gazsnk, but looking at the video, and taking note of blacketj's comments, if I understand you correctly, on the PC, the power button simply operates a micro switch to power up. I have removed the two wires, green and white, and whilst I understand what you say gazsnk about only one button being necessary, do I wire it up to one of the existing spare buttons in the cabinet, because as you know, they have 3 terminals, whereas, the one in the video just has two, in other words, do I just need to get another type of button? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacketj Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 I can explain the three terminals. If you look closely at the switch the terminals are probably labeled. Probably something like NO, NC, GRD. These stand for Normaly Open, Normaly Closed, and Ground. In your application (and most applications) you are really only interested in Normally Open and Ground. What Normally open means means is that when you aren't pushing the button the circuit is open, meaning that there is no connection between that terminal and the ground terminal. When you push the button you are closing the circuit, making a connection between that terminal and the ground terminal. The normally closed terminal works the exact opposite. It is always connected to the ground terminal until you push the button, and then the connection is broken. This is not what you want. So only use the Normally Open terminal. What gazsnk showed will definitely work if you cut off the other switch, but all you really need is a two wire connector with the proper connection for the mother board. It should be a 2-pin 0.1" pitch female connector like the following https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8672 Hope that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copperfacejack Posted July 20, 2013 Author Share Posted July 20, 2013 Thanks blacketj, and while I see what you mean about the connector in the link, when I copied it over to the browser bar in Amazon here in the UK, it didn't really have a similar product, but that's OK because as I said, I have actually disabled the micro switch on the front of the PC case and disconnected the two wires attached to it, my simple approach here being - that is the switch ordinarily, so transfer the two wires up to a spare button in the cabinet, and that should suffice. Consequently, I have two wires in the PC case which I'll extend up to the button, connect one to the NO and the other to the GND and hopefully that'll do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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