ghetoprobe Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Hello fellow Hyperspinners. It’s been a couple of years since I’ve been active here - back in the heyday when Bad Boy Bill was the driving force behind the site. I used to read every post, in every topic, perusing the site on a daily-basis. I’d love to know the story behind BBB leaving and where many of the admins are today, but alas, life goes on and people take on new interests. There seem to be a lot of great things happening around here between HyperLaunch, HyperSync and the upcoming HyperBase. It’s refreshing to see others picking up the reigns and making things happen. A fantastic job to those of you who have stuck with it throughout the years. Your dedication is appreciated. Anyway, the reason for this post - a new racing cabinet build! My father happened to be over at TNT Amusements in Southampton, PA earlier this summer and he noticed they had a gutted Cruis’n Exotica cabinet out back, waiting to be trashed. He called, asked if I wanted it, and threw it in the back of his van. It’s been sitting in my basement ever since and I’ve finally gotten around to “breaking ground” on the project. This build thread is going to move quickly and will likely be all over the place – I’m a bit scatterbrained - so try to keep up. Many build threads take months (or even years) to see the final product, but I have already done the majority of the prep work and have really been making a lot of progress over the last few weeks. I’m hoping to have it 100% functional with a Playstation3 by the new year. A custom PC build and Hyperspin configuration will come later in 2015. Thank you : To my wife and daughter for being patient with my temper when working on these types of projects and for helping me throughout the build. Love you both so much. To my parents for giving me the skills to take on a project like this from start to finish (well, almost finished). I hope I make them proud doing stupid projects like this. To “Bad Boy Bill” for changing my life. Some people may think that’s a ridiculous statement, but I literally spent two years straight working on my first Hyperspin setup, back when things were slowly being pieced together around here. He is a visionary and I always appreciated how well he handled the ungrateful assholes – with class. To “gbeef”, for giving me the inspiration to build this cab in the first place. I know he doesn’t frequent this forum any longer, but his “OutRun Paradise” build blew me away and his artwork and attention to detail are second to none. Very, very impressive. : http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?12744-Outrun-cab-build&highlight=gbeef To “Lucian045” aka, Brad. He generously gives back to our community by printing professional-quality artwork at extremely reasonable prices. Nicest guy you’ll ever talk to and a fellow pin-head to boot. Very knowledgeable about the printing process and what cab-builders need. Couldn’t be happier with the process! I would never use anyone else. : http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?14155-Decals-and-Printing-for-your-HyperSpin-Cabinet To “BadMouth” on the BYOAC forum. I haven’t spent too much time on this forum (yet), but I liked the buttons on his racing cabinet so much I stole the artwork (sorry!). Really appreciate the inspiration. : http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,105003.0.html I’m sure there will be more thank-yous to add, but I really need to start posting some build pics or I may start putting people to sleep. Now, some people like pictures of every step of the process – myself being one of them. I’m trying to take as many pictures as possible throughout and if there’s anything that I can help with or clarify, please don’t hesitate to ask. This community has done a lot for me and I have done relatively little to contribute. Thanks for looking and please pardon the mess! Without further ado, on to the build… --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- Current Build Pics : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 Here she is! In all her beat-to-death glory! This cabinet has seen better days, but I intend to resurrect the dead. You can see the decal damage goes to the wood and there were some spray paint touch-ups done at some point. The first step of the process was to find a matching seat/base for the cabinet since it didn’t come with them. I found a guy about an hour away that had one from an “Off Road Thunder”. It was expensive ($70), but I really didn’t feel like making one from scratch. And, it wasn’t a perfect match either – the lip of the cab and the lip of the seat base are about 1/2in off. Oh well, not a showstopper. I’ve already pealed the artwork off of the seat base in these pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 The next steps were removing the artwork, pulling the t-molding, and removing the chewed up diamond plate. The adhesive used on the original decals is insane. It took two bottles of Goof-Off and a flat razor blade to get the decals off the cabinet. Well over two or three hours of work to get every last bit clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 Next up; creating the panels that will hold the 32" TV in place while hiding the bezel. There was only one TV I could find that would fit within the precise 28.5" width of the cabinet. It's a Samsung UN32H5500 and it juuust barely fit. Maybe a 16th of an inch to spare. It's more expensive than most 32" TVs, but I didn't want to have to cut channels or modify the cabinet more than I already had to. After test fitting the TV I have to say that it fits perfectly. I hit the panels with 5 coats of Glossy Black Enamel and they came out looking great. You can see in the second pic that the front-facing piece is 1/2" thick and shorter than the 3/4" pieces of MDF. The front piece sits perfectly between the 1/2" vertical pieces already mounted to the cabinet. These kind of act as the TV's bezel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 NEXT! What's the first thing you do to a brand new set of racing pedals? Correct! Tear them apart. I decided to go with the Logitech G27. One, because it was cheap ($190) and, two, because the next step up to the T500RS is just too expensive for me to justify. Yes, I'd love to dump a couple grand into a Fanatec setup, but this is just an arcade - not a racing simulator. So, first things first, swap the pedal plates for reverse mounted pedal installation. Referring to the "Chili Coke" instructional (http://chilicoke.com/mods/reversepedal.htm) I carefully tore apart the pedals and flipped them around the other way. This feels much more natural than keeping your feet on the plastic foot rest the G27 pedal base has. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 Let's spin this thing around and move to the back of the cabinet. It didn't come with a door so I had to create my own. I used 3/4" particle board and painted it with Glossy Black Enamel. I ran into an issue when mounting the new lock where the locking arm would not reach the metal holding bracket. The old locking arm had a square hole and the new arm had a oval-shaped hole, so I ended up epoxying them together so the lock would turn the new arm while still getting the reach of the old. Confusing, yes, but it needed to be done. Hopefully the pictures do a better job of explaining it than I just did... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 So, the next step was quite the challenge. I got a "leather" racing seat off eBay which came with sliders. The seat itself was far too wide to fit within the narrow 14" channel that the wooden seat base had. Two pieces of wood needed to be cut, one to fit within the 14" channel and the other needed to be wide enough to accommodate the seat rails. Almost every bolt needed to be recessed so they wouldn't interfere with the rails or the sandwiching of the boards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 I also cut a slot for black t-molding to keep a nice, clean look. The four holes toward the center of the boards are for mounting to the metal plate that mounts to the wooden base. The outer four holes are for mounting the rails. A larger hole was also cut in case I needed to run cabling. These were hit with Glossy Black Enamel paint. My lovely wife helping with the heavy-lifting while I took my sweet time mounting the seat to the rails, the rails to the boards, the boards to the metal mounting plate and the metal mounting plate to the base of the cabinet. It’s much heavier than it looks. "Just stand right there sweetie while I take this picture". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 Here's everything put back together. I mounted the steering wheel to get a feel for the control position and it feels like a million bucks. The seat slides like butter and can handle anyone from 6'5" down to kid. My daughter (2), can't quite reach yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 As you may have noticed, the marquee/enclosure/topper is missing. I thought it would be nearly impossible to track one of these down. I checked eBay, called all the local arcade restorers, asked around online... nothing. I finally put a "want ad" up on Craigslist and wouldn't you know, later THAT DAY a guy responded saying he had one available. It was cracked, beaten and bruised, it didn't even have the Plexiglass piece for the marquee, but I didn't care. I drove the hour to his place and sure enough, there was the silver marquee housing. I believe they only made this marquee housing for a handful of games; "Cruis'n Exotica", "Faster Than Speed", "Fury Championship Racing" and "Ford Racing Full Blown". $40 and half a tank of gas later, I had it in my possession! I thought for sure I was never going to find one. Thanks to "Tony Pinball" for helping me out! Here's a few pics of it being prepped before paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 Now I'm ready to hit it with some Krylon Fusion Glossy Black paint. It goes on so nicely - specifically designed for painting plastics. 5 coats later I hit it with 4 coats of clear - it's gorgeous... it's perfect... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 ... I take it outside to see it in the sun and I drop it on a concrete slab. Please kill me. I had to sand it down, fill the damage and prep the entire thing again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 Okay, so 5 MORE coats of Krylon Fusion Glossy Black and 4 MORE coats of clear and we're good to go! This time I didn't care what it looked like in the sun... It looks nice in the pictures, but in person it's just gorgeous. Very little "orange peel". The Krylon Fusion lies very flat and kind of works out any imperfections on its own. I highly recommend it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Next up are the speaker grills. I cut up a mesh terrarium top and painted two pieces black. Then I got two 140mm computer fan grills that had a honeycomb pattern, flattened them out, and painted them with Glossy Orange Enamel paint. The reason behind the two layers was to hide the speaker a little better behind them. The holes in the honeycomb are pretty large. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Black mesh is installed, downward facing speakers are mounted and orange grills are in place. By some miracle the speakers fit PERFECTLY in the existing mounting slots. The feet of the speakers even fit perfectly over the wooden bar that runs the width of the cabinet. The speaker system I'm using is a Logitech Z-5500 5.1 Surround system. Not exactly sure where I'm going to put the massive sub woofer yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Began cutting the boards for the pedals. Getting the perfect angle where the pedals felt good yet the board wasn't coming past the inner curve of the cabinet was time consuming. In the end I was able to get the best of both worlds and things feel just right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Finally, time to mount the pedals! I drive a Honda Civic SI and love the pedal layout. I emulated them as closely as possible - same height from the floor and same distance from each other. They feel just like I'm sitting in my car. Very happy with the way they turned out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Painting the pedal boards and screws in Glossy Black Enamel paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 What are the chances of that?! Glad he's back, and thanks for letting me know about his post - I completely missed it. Keep checking back, I'll be updating this thread as quickly as possible. The project is much further along than I currently have posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agrajag Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 I love build threads like this. Looking great so far! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Mounting the pedals to the finished board. I managed to drill the holes for the wiring so close to the pots that I had to use tweezers to pull them through. Tight tolerances lend themselves to a clean look (I keep telling myself), although tight tolerances can cause more work, too. The wiring on the back went well, but I had to be careful not to pinch it between the board and cabinet. Looks good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Pedal boards are permanently mounted! You can see a little wood showing where the screws went in. I'll just dab a drop of glossy black paint from a Sharpie paint stick and you'll never notice. I had to drill a hole for the "center" channel of the 5.1 surround system. This speaker will be mounted underneath the dashboard area, just behind the steering wheel. You won't be able to see it , but you'll definitely hear it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Let's get some air flowing, shall we? The lower fan (140mm) is mounted to the same mounting posts as the cab's old sub woofer. This fan will pull air through the lower cutout and up toward the middle of the cabinet. The upper fan is another 140mm. Used a hole cutter and tried to center it as much as possible. If you'll notice in the first few pics in this thread, you can see someone had cut three smaller holes in the top of the cab. I wanted to cut them out completely so the center hole ended up being slightly off-center to cut those out entirely. I was worried it would look "off" at first, but it came out looking fine. A lot of wood was showing so I had to hit the entire cutout with a glossy black Sharpie stick. Lower Fan : Upper Fan : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Forgot to mention I cut the basic dashboard and then drilled the mounting holes. : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetoprobe Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Next up: wiring the "left" and "right" speakers and mounting the "center" speaker. I purchased a bulk roll of 12 gauge speaker wire on eBay (250FT Speaker Cable 12AWG Bulk Audio Wire CL2 In Wall 12/2 Gauge). It barely fit in the speaker terminals, but it's some serious wire and I'm glad I went with such a thick gauge. For the "center" speaker I just covered the white cable with some black 3/8" shrink tubing so it wouldn't stand out. I'm sure no one will ever look behind the speaker, behind the steering wheel, under the dashboard... but I'm anal. What if someone drops a pretzel and looks up at this hideous white cable?! We can't have that. And I know the "center" speaker looks like it would get in the way or you might hit your knees on it, but it's tucked back further than you would think. The steering wheel will completely hide it from view. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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