Safely handling CRTs

ActualStarbuck · January 27, 2015

My MAME cabinet (a converted Battlezone cabinet from 1980) currently has a computer CRT in it that has had the plastic casing removed, etc. I recently aquired a 21" SUN SVGA CRT (max 800x600) that I'd like to drop in instead, but I want to make sure I am doing it correctly and avoiding risk of electric shock, etc.

So, has anyone done this before and can provide some solid safety tips and rules of thumb?

Thanks!

jgruessing68 · January 27, 2015

You need to be very careful. Don't work on it with power on, of course. A typical CRT power supply pumps out several hundred to 15-20 kV that will stop your heart.

If I understood you, it's a standard computer CRT. You should be able to remove it and use the same connectors on a replacement CRT without messing with the internal circuitry. Turn the power off... carefully take the old one out... don't touch any capacitors. Throw that in the electronic recycle pile. If you can mount the new one without removing the housing.

Is there any reason you want to use a CRT? If you are using a computer CRT, you are already several steps away from an original arcade CRT. Why not use an LCD? You can get them for cheap now... sometimes almost free at a thrift store--depending on what size you need. And... they are wayyyy easier to mount.

If you want that CRT "look", most of the emulators can simulate aging CRT behavior and scanlines now.

Plus, you cab will be a lot less heavy.

Just a suggestion.

ActualStarbuck · January 28, 2015

Thanks for the reply. I want a CRT because I can definitely tell the difference vs. an LCD screen. Even though I can't get down to true CGA resolutions, I can do 640x480 with this one and the dot pitch at 21" is enough to give you a more authentic feel than simulated scanlines. And my cab is already ridiculously heavy - LOL.

I bought a pair of insulating gloves and I'm going to try to use the new monitor with as much of it's housing intact as possible. I noticed that the SUN monitor has a kind of metal cage underneath the plastic housing, so I'm planning on leaving that in place if I can and avoiding any exposed capacitors.