freezy

Just came across this thread (only got a real DMD recently). If anyone is playing Pinball FX2 or The Pinball Arcade, you probably want this. It's a small tool I wrote that adds real DMD support to PBFX and TPA. It's free and open source and it supports pretty much every display out there. However if you have one that you like to add support to, let me know! Thread about Pinball FX2 at VPF Thread about the Pinball Arcade at VPF Cheers!

@zeb and maxx, I've posted a follow-up in a separate thread so we don't get all spammed in here. If you could have a look, that would be great.

Thanks zeb, I've just ordered a bunch of 1A fast blowing fuses. I haven't seen anything burnt or swelled inside the amp. However I'm going to replace the switch, seems like crap-quality. Will need to play without sound until they arrive. Cheers for the help, guys!

Just tested and looks indeed like a broken fuse. Since I have some fuse holders left, how about I screw one to the inner side of the amp and put a fuse in there? UPDATE: Tried a 500mA fuse but it popped immediately. I have 5A and 10A, the original was 1A. I don't dare putting a 5A, what do you think?

I suppose that's the one? Seeing the sand means it's broken? It's pretty small (10mm). How do I get the damn thing out?

Oh, that would be really nice of you! I'll get the sucker out later today to see if it's really only a fuse in the amp, that would be nice. So for an "easy fix", an fuse after the switch would help?

I think I just exploded my Creative Gigaworks T3 Amp. It happened while pushing the main circuit breaker of my cab "slowly", there was some weird noise and the amp is just dead now. Everything else works though. I've been turning on/off the thing for months now and nothing ever happened, so I suppose it's not something that fails "by design". Now before I buy a new amp I would like to know what happened and how I can prevent it. Is it possible that there's some kind of over voltage when pressing the button that causes the amp to break? Could a simple fuse after the circuit breaker prevent that? Are there other solutions? Any help appreciated!

Ah, that was the classical noob mix-up I guess. One last detail: when going through the relay, can the LED-Wiz still control the intensity of each light in an "analog" way, or is it either on or off, resulting in the RGB LED only being able to display 7 colors (still talking about the LED strip)?

Thanks maxxsinner. Then there is another thing that got me confused. I see the point of DeeGor driving the 24V knocker via a 12V relay (relays use small voltage to control a higher voltage, right?). But why did Chris put a relay (using a 4 relay module) before the LED strip? It's 12V and his LED-Wiz is running at 12V on all ports if I'm not mistaken. Why couldn't he just have hooked the LED strip to the LED-Wiz directly as he did with the ROM-controlled LED buttons? I think that's the last mystery from my side, then I'm ready to start wiring!

Okay, so the "common ground" that we use in the star point setup is actually the only way of setting up multiple voltages (since on the LED-Wiz there is only one connector leading back to the -V of the PSU)?

Thanks maxxsinner! One thing I'm not yet grasping about LED-Wiz yet is how does it close the circuit? For instance, a LED's (+) is connected to the PSU's +V. The LED's (-) is going to the LED-Wiz input. In order to close the circuit, does LED-Wiz connect the (-) coming from the LED to the GND that is connected to the PSU's -V? If that's the case, what are the bank voltage selects on the LED-Wiz for? I apologize for the basic questions, but understanding how LED-Wiz works would be quite of a benefit to me regarding magic smoke and such

So I received my two PSUs (12V&24V), borrowed a friend's multimeter and the difference between the -Vs is 0.05V. Is that something to worry about, or am I still able to connect those together?