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Everything posted by freezy

  1. So a few weeks passed and I think that the artwork has become something I can live with (and my Photoshop skills tripled). I think I haven't mentioned yet that I'm building this baby at work with the financial support of a few co-workers, so obviously the theme is related to our company (which is called "Lotaris", we're in the mobile licensing business, so the pirates give a nice ironical touch). Seeing the artwork you'll probably think I'm crazy, but there is a ton of insider jokes in there that I won't go into. Here you see the artwork progressing from its first sketch to the final version. And here all the pieces: Resolution is at 150dpi, I hope that's enough: Let me know what you think!
  2. Oh well I'll order a new one then :/ Thanks everybody, you've been a great help and if nothing more I've learned a lot! EDIT: Just read Gilrock's answer. Unfortunately I have no idea which transistor I need for replacement. If you have an idea, let me know, otherwise it's going to the bin.
  3. Hmm I've just noticed that my replacement fuse (left) says T1L250V while the original (right) reads T1AL250V. Maybe that's the problem? Doesn't the "A" just stand for ampere?
  4. Seems not. However, the fuse still blows as soon as I plug the amp. Any idea why? Could it be my amateur soldering of the fuse? Or could a broken transistor be the cause of that? EDIT: This is how it looks now:
  5. Resistors finally arrived. However they look completely symmetrical. Is the orientation important at all when soldering into the PCB?
  6. To be honest I don't feel too confident about this solution. Normally if pros like you guys start guessing I'm already completely lost. Additionally I don't have any of those components lying around, so every time something burns I need to order it somewhere with shipping costs and delays involved. So my current plan is to find the right transistor, replace the two resistors and the transistor, and if that doesn't work throw the whole crap out of the window and buy a new one. Therefore, suggestions about which transistor to find would be very appreciated
  7. Yeah that's what I thought too at the beginning, but the PCB where the PSU seems to be is the same where all the inputs and outputs are soldered onto. Then a bus goes up to the other board where the amp and whatever is. Not sure how I would just replace the power unit...
  8. Scratched off the yellow stuff. Not sure if I can get a better picture, its not readable at all by bare eye... Does that speak to anybody?
  9. Oh right, I overread zebulon's remark about Q1. Are transistors usually labeled? Should I scratch off the yellow stuff that is glued on top and see if I can get more info about which transistor it is exactly?
  10. By the way, are you guys sure the C7 in the middle is a transistor? Don't those come with three terminals? I have only two there: On the back, it looks like this:
  11. Thanks, russ! So should I try replacing the resistors already or do you guys think that the transistor that is between is definitely cooked too?
  12. About the diode, this one is the only one I could find and it looks quite okay, right?
  13. Thanks, Zeb! The other resistor also looks like 100 Ohms: So the tolerance doesn't affect the functionality? Do you need an image from a different angle in order to determine which transistor is used? Also I have no idea how to solder the transistor, this one looks quite different than the one on the board.
  14. Thanks for the feedback, guys. Firstly I was confused by the silver ring, but when looking closely that's the resistor behind the plastic layer, which was originally indeed brown / black / brown / gold, which stands indeed for 100ohm. The gold ring means +-5% tolerance, right? I found this, however it says only 1% tolerance. Is that a problem?
  15. @zeb and maxx, I've posted a follow-up in a separate thread so we don't get all spammed in here. If you could have a look, that would be great.
  16. Hi folks, before completely hijacking the other thread, I thought I'd post the follow-up in a separate one. Many thanks already to maxx and zebulon who helped me out a lot! For the history, my main power switch seemed to have produced an over current which blew out the fuse of my amp: Since I didn't have such small fuses and I certainly didn't feel like soldering a new fuse every time it blows, I've soldered two wires to an external fuse holder and screwed it into the amp: The fuse that was blown says T1AL250V which I suppose stands for 1A slow blowing at 250V. So I've ordered some of those, but when I plug the amp, it blows instantly. Now zebulon mentioned that the resistors may be damaged as well. I tried to take a better photo: Could that be the reason the fuse blows? And if so, can anyone decrypt which kind of resistor those are so I can replace them? Thanks in advance, guys.
  17. Thanks zeb, I've just ordered a bunch of 1A fast blowing fuses. I haven't seen anything burnt or swelled inside the amp. However I'm going to replace the switch, seems like crap-quality. Will need to play without sound until they arrive. Cheers for the help, guys!
  18. Just tested and looks indeed like a broken fuse. Since I have some fuse holders left, how about I screw one to the inner side of the amp and put a fuse in there? UPDATE: Tried a 500mA fuse but it popped immediately. I have 5A and 10A, the original was 1A. I don't dare putting a 5A, what do you think?
  19. I suppose that's the one? Seeing the sand means it's broken? It's pretty small (10mm). How do I get the damn thing out?
  20. Oh, that would be really nice of you! I'll get the sucker out later today to see if it's really only a fuse in the amp, that would be nice. So for an "easy fix", an fuse after the switch would help?
  21. I think I just exploded my Creative Gigaworks T3 Amp. It happened while pushing the main circuit breaker of my cab "slowly", there was some weird noise and the amp is just dead now. Everything else works though. I've been turning on/off the thing for months now and nothing ever happened, so I suppose it's not something that fails "by design". Now before I buy a new amp I would like to know what happened and how I can prevent it. Is it possible that there's some kind of over voltage when pressing the button that causes the amp to break? Could a simple fuse after the circuit breaker prevent that? Are there other solutions? Any help appreciated!
  22. One LED for each button, with integrated resistor (I assume that's why there isn't any heat): Drilled the hole as suggested by JogZter:
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