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Everything posted by freezy

  1. @JogZter: You're the man, now those buttons are lighting up!
  2. Good to know, I might do just that. Would like to keep the "classic" bulbs though, since I like the "analog" blinking. But I indeed didn't realize that even the bulbs are probably supposed to run on 5V instead of 12V.
  3. Okay that was kind of stupid. I could swear that I've read 12V on led4pin.com. I'll pull the 5V from the PC's PSU then I guess. Still doesn't explain why the conventional bulbs broke, those were the same as the others behind the other buttons.
  4. Added some more LED strip below the apron. Looks awesome! Then I seem to have a heat problem. In the coin door, every bulb I put it seems to die after a few hours. The normal #555 bulbs just went belly up, then I ordered some LED bulbs which got really hot (even outside the coin door, hanging the the open). This one I disconnected before it died: They're supposed to run on 12V and I measured the voltage with a multimeter, it's 11.9something Volts. Do I also need a resistor for those? Seems weird because all the 12V bulbs of the other buttons seem to run without major problems and they are also directly connected to the PSU (they are also warm but don't break after a few hours). Maxxsinner? Professional advice? Cheers! EDIT: I guess the image says it all: 6.3 V AC.
  5. Yeah this is an original FP table, but I believe Slamt!lt also has the Stern version available for VIP supporters.
  6. Like this? EDIT: The leaf switches I got from VirtuaPin.net along with some other gear (see first post).
  7. Sounds promising! I'm not sure I fully understand though. Could you maybe post an image of the LEDs you used? I think that would clear up a lot. Cheers!
  8. Thanks for the info, guys. Now you're mentioning it, I've seen those from groovegamegear, but for those I would need to re-drill. Also I'm quite fond of the way they play (however I must admit I've never tested the other ones). It's already better than nothing, they're just not as bright as the other arcade buttons. Let's see if the aluminium foil can boost the light a bit more. BTW, this is my 100th post! Can I post pics without being moderated now?
  9. So this week I got a new set of flipper buttons. Couldn't find white translucent pairs at 1-7/8", so I went for a pair of green and a pair of red transparent buttons. Mounted them and the play nice! Now about the illumination behind. I actually still have no idea how people illuminate their flipper buttons, because the leaf thingie and screw nut cover nearly everything of the button and just on top is the contact, so the light has to come from the sides somehow. Since I had still rests of the RGB LED strip, I've improvised some kind of lamp: So they're supposed to surround the back of the flipper buttons. Success was moderate. The red button is lightish while the green looks more solid than illuminated. Will try to put some aluminium foil around those clamps to put more light on the buttons. Then I got a UHID-G and an IPAC VE. Perfect timing since the Mot-Ion kit just went belly up. Either I'm unlucky or this is some incredibly bad piece of hardware, calibration nightmares aside. The IPAC works as expected like a charm. With the UHID-G I played around a little. I calibrated it while mounted in the cab by shaking the cab during the Windows game controller calibration thing. Then I used the UHID config tool to move the cross into the center. In VP I'm at 300% gain and 30% dead zone. Still have to nudge quite hard to see an effect and there seems to be a delay. If anyone else has tips, let me know, otherwise I'll try some more. Also, since more and more tables went into "slow-motion mode", I've downgraded the Nvidia driver and that seems to have solved that problem (WTF?). There was also some progress with the artwork, I hope that I'll be able to show something next week
  10. Updated the first post with the link to the SKP file. Finally a few details ended up differently than the original plan, mainly the monitor suspensions. Maybe I'll update the plan and model to reflect the real deal one day. Recently I added the cable for the electronic coin rejector, and it works. Really nice, you just put a coin into the holder on the backside and it'll verify all coins against that coin. Then I ordered some magnets (love that site!) and glued some to a bunch of spare PCB feet: Now the "treasure chest" perfectly glues into the cab and is easily removable. But no, the cab is not quite yet finished. Basically, what needs to be done is: Get the damn PBW accelerometer working (probably gonna ditch it for the U-HID+G) Get the artwork finished and printed Software tweaking. Once a table started it's good, but FP makes HP freeze on exit and even some VP tables just freeze or go into super-slow-mode. Seems like a real PITA. But still, very playable!
  11. This is actually kinda fun. I really like painting blood stains Didn't figure out how to replace the root exit menu though. Maybe I'll have some blind tries tomorrow...
  12. Oh, nice. I'll open hexedit and have a look at the binary then Cheers!
  13. Thanks Mike. And if I'm not mistaken, HyperPin isn't open source, right? And it wouldn't look at a magical place for potentially overloading images.. Cheers!
  14. Okay. Again. I'm not talking about the loading screens or the menu screens before/when playing a table. I'm talking about the menu screen that is displayed when you are in HyperPin while quitting HyperPin, if that's ESC or E or whatever mapping is completely irrelevant. My mind is completely capable of making a reference between a file name and an image, but the problem is that those images aren't there, hence no reference. And if it's still not clear, I'm not talking about the images I've posted. So again, my question: For those specific (three) menu screens (not the others!), is there any other place, or are they compiled into HyperPin? And if so, is there a way to overload them?
  15. Hi Ton, I can only repeat myself: The exit menu when you press ESC in HyperPin is NOT in that package. If you have a more specific link to a resource containing a solution instead of a general RTFM that would be very appreciated.
  16. Thanks! Here's a first version of the apron (sized it down from 600dpi): So, how about the HyperPin exit menu?
  17. Yeah those I got, but what about the Exit/Shutdown/Back menu when you start up HyperPin? Nothing like this in the folder you've mentioned.
  18. Fiddled around with "menu branding". I suppose you guys can guess what the theme of the pin will be However, does anyone know how overload the principal Exit/Shutdown menu? Those images aren't in my HyperPin/Media/HyperPin/Images folder. Any hints appreciated!
  19. So a few weeks ago a really nice guy gave me a handful of coin mechs for ten bucks (thanks again Peter!). This is a 50 Swiss cents coin mech, exactly what I need. Basically, the coin goes in here: Then passes through this, where weight, size and magnetic property are validated. Fascinating device. Mounted into the coin door, it looks like this: So when the coin gets validated it falls behind the coin door, triggers a controller button and drops into my cash box. Otherwise, it ends up at the other side, which is the reject tray at the front of the door. For the second coin slot I want to validate a smaller unit, so I bought an electronic validator that is easily adjustable, just put the coin to validate against in here: However, in order to mount the sucker, I had to rip off the plastic cover of one side and file off some of the coin door's plastic: Now it fits but the idiots where I ordered forgot to include the cable: So no testing yet, until they send it. For now, the mechanic one already works perfectly (love the sound when the coin falls through and validates), while the other one just sits there. By the way the art work is progressing, I'll post sketches and stuff once it's finished.
  20. Look what I've found in my old HTPC: It's an OLED display with a 256x24 resolution (I think) and 16 tones per pixel. Putting this in the middle of the apron under the glass would be awesome Anyone from the DMD experts knows what it takes to integrate this with vpinmame?
  21. Wow, already a month gone. Besides vacation I was mainly working on small improvements and fighting software (and playing the shit out of it, of course). After tidying up most of the wires, the drawer now closes smoothly. Installed the ports on the back side: USB, ethernet and power. Also fixed down the PSU as well as the graphics card: Still looks best at night. Now I really need to get a concrete idea about the art work.
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