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Everything posted by freezy

  1. Okay, so the "common ground" that we use in the star point setup is actually the only way of setting up multiple voltages (since on the LED-Wiz there is only one connector leading back to the -V of the PSU)?
  2. Thanks maxxsinner! One thing I'm not yet grasping about LED-Wiz yet is how does it close the circuit? For instance, a LED's (+) is connected to the PSU's +V. The LED's (-) is going to the LED-Wiz input. In order to close the circuit, does LED-Wiz connect the (-) coming from the LED to the GND that is connected to the PSU's -V? If that's the case, what are the bank voltage selects on the LED-Wiz for? I apologize for the basic questions, but understanding how LED-Wiz works would be quite of a benefit to me regarding magic smoke and such
  3. So I received my two PSUs (12V&24V), borrowed a friend's multimeter and the difference between the -Vs is 0.05V. Is that something to worry about, or am I still able to connect those together?
  4. The diodes were supposed to arrive today, but didn't. I did a quick test anyway and it seemed to work. The only thing that worries me a little is that the Chinese eBay seller I got the PSUs from seems to be selling fakes. At least I don't think there's an "I" between the M and W of the Mean Well logo.
  5. Another noob question. If I wanted to test a contactor without LED-Wiz, just hook it directly to the PSU with a button, do I need to use the diode as well? Or is the PSU less sensitive to the inductive "feedback"?
  6. Problem is, there aren't any screws in the holes. The other ones where there is only one hole per contact do have screws. It seems I have to put some solder on the wire which makes it possible to squeeze it in. It will then be attached until I use a screwdriver in the top holes to release.
  7. Hmm, how am I supposed to attach the wire to that? Just squeeze it in there?
  8. Ah haha yeah 45A seemed a little high indeed. Thanks for the clarification! I feel like the puzzles get solved one after another. Cheers!
  9. Thanks maxxsinner! So for the 3RT10161BB41 that would be: Switching Current Ac1: 22A Switching Current Ac3: 9A Load Current Inductive: 9A Load Current Resistive: 22A I suppose the coil amperage is the "load current inductive"? So that means I should have at least 45A if I want to have five conductors clinging at the same time without burning down the cab?
  10. Cheers guys. I'm wondering though how you would calculate the amperage for the contactors. Do they each need an amperage or is it independent how many contactors there are? For the wattage I guess the more contactors the more power?
  11. I'm going to get six Siemens 3RT1016-1BB41 and one Siemens 3RH1140-2BB40, both at 24VDC. Now I need a PSU. Which amperage should I choose? I'm kind of puzzled by that. Also the needed power of the PSU would be interesting (100W should be enough?).
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