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About Aurich

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  • Birthday 08/22/1977
  1. Ugh, that childish stuff is such a turn off, I wish people could just be adults about this hobby. I've had nothing but good business interactions with Paul, no personal issues here, but that whole thing is just a joke.
  2. As Brett knows from his great technical support my XPin DMD works just fine with the PinDMD2.
  3. I didn't really document mine, this looks like the most 'finished' shot I have: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9441050010/
  4. Wouldn't work anyways, the ColorDMD can only support one game at a time, you need to flash it for the correct title.
  5. Heh, we'll see I guess. Truth is it's a giant pain in the ass to try and sell it. I have $4500 worth of parts put into it, and I'd rather not take a giant bath on that. Don't care about my time, that was all fun. A pricey thing to try and move even at break-even though.
  6. Haha, true. I'm also hanging out with more SoCal pinheads, only real way to play down here, on-location is pretty dead. Went to a party a couple weeks ago with an amazing 56 machine private collection!
  7. Getting sucked into physical pinball is kinda sapping my enthusiasm for virtual tables, find I'm not playing it anymore. I had no plans to sell it, but a friend might be interested in buying and I found that I was receptive to the idea. We'll see! Was a blast building it though, so thanks to the community again.
  8. Loving those zombie pinball legs. That could have come out looking bad, but it really works. Red armor + white t-molding seals the deal.
  9. No, they didn't make you. You're just a cheap bastard who doesn't want to pay for the efforts of others and justifies it with childish logic.
  10. I could have told you he was a great guy to work with, you're in good hands.
  11. I'm the Pinball Santa Claus! As to your question about how I got the trigger to strobe, that's the LED-Wiz feeding it the Launch Ball pulse. So only going to work on tables with launch buttons where the ROM supported flashing them.
  12. So the heatsinks I have are radial, and then at the end of the arms are little semi-circles that you can put a screw in, like a sleeve. (See pic above, http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8357/8280233820_3aa98e8795_c.jpg) So I just lined up the LEDs behind the domes and put a couple screws into the sleeves and right into the wood. So no, not connected to the domes, but to the board. It's pretty basic really once you have it all in front of you.
  13. Yeah, I drilled holes through the board, and screwed the domes in from behind. Then just put the heatsinks with LEDs on top of those. I forget the size of the holes off the top of my head, I think it was 1 1/8" or 1 1/4". These are the domes I used: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8149-13 I punched out 1" circles of some kind of waxy paper backing I had lying around, and put them inside the ends of the domes to help difuse the light a bit, helps them blend the RGB colors a bit and cuts down on the intensity a little too. 1" fits perfectly, they didn't need glue or anything, won't fall out.
  14. My feedback would be if you're going to use the big pinball ball image don't make it transparent. It looks like a soap bubble instead of a metal ball when you let things bleed through it like that. Be a lot better to take the wall texture or environment and map it over the ball as a reflection. Something like this quick and dirty example (I know you're not using this image but it was easier to isolate ball on this one): Now if you're doing that for real it will take a bit more care than that 20 second slop, a real reflection on a metal ball is going to have a top and bottom, with the bottom environment wrapping around the bottom 2/3rds of the ball, and top in a smaller hot spot up top, like this:
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