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About Duglim

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  • Birthday 02/07/1979

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  1. Hi folks, I made some additions to the cab: Software: - Added N64 (Mupen) - Added C64 (VICE with GameBase) - Added customized KODI Media Center to play Videos from external USB sticks Hardware: - Added stickers to some buttons, e.g. coin buttons have a coin slot sticker. - Added top quality SNES gamepads instead of the crappy ones - Added original N64 controllers - Added an Competition Pro Joystick for C64 Next on the plan: - Maybe add Amiga - Try Apple Airplay support Greetings, Duglim
  2. Thx, like to hear that. The handles are no prob, with 12mm MDF it's not this heavy. I did not weight it, but it should not be more than 10kg. For the external USB port, I took an easy way with this: http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00H4APOGE Greetings, Dug
  3. Last weekend I finished my latest arcade project: An "Emulation Supergun" Cab It's my 4th cab in total, after a Bartop, a pinball and a similar emu supergun, which I gifted to my sister. Now it was time to build a portale beast for my own. This new cab runs Arcade games and a nice set of my favorite consoles via GameEx. It's highly portable and can easily be hooked to any TV via HDMI. It any has 2 cables on the outside, a HDMI and a power cord. You can open the lid to store the gamepads and cables, if they are not needed. Hardware: - Case 80x30 cm build from 12mm MDF wood - Lid can be opened and is finished with a 3mm Lexan glass cover - Arcade buttons are convex and have dynamic lights via PacDrive. - Sanwa Joysticks - 8 Gamepads for SNES, NES, SEGA, PSX. (SNES pads will be exchanged for original ones soon, N64 Pads are also planned) - The Computer is a DELL E6400 Laptop with Core2Duo 2,5 Ghz and 4GB Ram - 1TB HD, 13 USB Ports - 2x 90mm case fans, running on 5V, very silent. Software: - Windows 10 Home - Mame 0.157 with full set. No clones. - Retroarch for Console emulation - Xpadder for the gamepad mappings Configured Systems: - Arcade (Mame) - SNES - NES - Genesis - MasterSystem - TurboGrafx-16 - Atari 2600 - NeoGeo AES - 3DO - PSX - Gameboy - GameBoy Advance - GameGear - NeoGeo Pocket Color (- N64 upcoming) All systems run with No-Intro romsets, with JAP only roms filtered out. Since it was my 3rd cab, it was done quite easily within about 20 hours. Configuring the software was another 20 hours, since I setup lot of things from scratch and moved all the console emulators to retroarch, to have the same configs and UIs. Was a really importtant step for my needs. Especially for having the same Scanline overlays in all the emulators is now possible. Hope you like this kind of cab! If I compare it to my bartop, it's much more pleasant for entertaining gaming nights, since I can sit in the couch, habe a large TV screen and playing consoles with the original gamepads is simply great. Greetings and thanks for all the helpful information here in this forum. Duglim
  4. Hi, does anyone know, if the Samsung SyncMaster 214T monitor automatically powers on, if the AC is restored? Or do you have to push the power button on the front each time? I'm looking for an screen upgrade from 19'' to 21'' for my cab and need a monitor which powers on when AC is restored. Thx and greetings, Duglim
  5. Funny, you did this 3 years ago and I build something similar this summer without knowing about your work. Check it you here: http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?36714-Livingroom-compatible-Arcade-Box I really like your individual board shape, will consider this for a future build.
  6. Since I build my third cab with a custom button layout, I was unhappy with the X-Arcade Dual layout. Thatswhy I changed some of the X-Arcade buttons to match my needs: P1 und P2 have their own coin and start buttons right in the front. They are used as Select/Start for game console emulation like NES and SNES, too. The red and green buttons on top handle the HyperSpin OK/Back/ExitGame functions. This way, Hyperspin controls and in-game controls a separated and no ugly multi button combination is needed to e.g. exit the game. I'm also thinking of a complete X-Arcade replacement with a bigger board and illuminated RGB buttons, maybe during the christmas holiday. Greeting, Duglim
  7. If you only use Mame, you can use the D3D Shader Effects to simulate scanlines, CRT masks, etc... But it costs a lot of performance and other system emulators may not have this shaders. The SLG3000 hardware solution scanlines all 640'480 analog VGA signals.
  8. Hi, it really depends on your use case. If you focus on oldschool games only, a CRT - maybe even 15KHz - can be a great choice. If you play newer games with high resolution, a lcd is the better choice, I think. Lightguns will be hard on LCD, don't know if this is even possible with NES or Mame. Also think of the aspect ratio of you screen, CRTs from the past used to be 4:3. I used a TFT with 5:4 and native 1280*1024 resolution. I set the resolution to 640*480 in MAME and all 90's console emulators and added the SLG3000 Scanline Generator. The SLG3000 created Scanline in 640*480 and 800*600 only. This way, the image is scanlined for all low resolution games and higher res games will be crystal clear in 1280*1024. There is no "best for all" solution, set your preferences.
  9. Frostmute, there is no need to fiddle with the laptop. The DELL I used has his on/off button on the right side of the laptop. Thatswhy I used a leafswitch pushbutton without the leafswitch, and attached a little wodden stick inside the cab. When you push the button, the stick presses the laptop power button. It's working perfect, a little bit MacGuyver style. See the pic. If you have a laptop with on/off button under the lid, you could open the laptop and try to solder a normal pushbutton the the power contacts, should also be possible. Didn't try this, because the physical solution worked fine. When hooked up, there are only power and HDMI wired. an due to having a laptop with battery, it can also run without power cable for about 1-2 hours, but usually, you have a power outlet near you, because the TV screen needs one.
  10. Hi,wie man das Backglass einrichtet, kannst du hier lesen. Einfach durch Google Translate jagen, wenn du kein Englisch kannst. http://www.vpforums.org/index.php?showtopic=24545 Kurzfassung: Die musst in Windows das Spielverzeichnis mit einer Dateiüberwachnung versehen, das geht mit Windows-Bordmitteln, ist im Thread erklärt. Dann brauchst du das Backglass-Tool vom User BigBoss, welches BMP-Bilder auf dem 2. Bildschirm anzeigen kann. Die Dateiüberwachung schaut, welchen Pinball-Tisch du zuletzt aufgerufen hast und sagt das dem Backglass-Tool. Weiter hinten im verlinkten Thread findest du auch einen Link von mir zu einem Zip, wo Backglass-Bilder zu allen Tischen vor Mai 2014 drin sind in 1280x1024. Um das DMD auf dem 2. Monitor anzuzeigen muss man eine Datei im Pinball FX2 Verzeichnis erstellen, hier mehr Infos dazu (nimm wieder Google Translate) : http://steamcommunity.com/app/226980/discussions/0/558751813226965223/?insideModal=1 Wenn du das DMD auf dem 2. Monitor hast, wirst du danach gern die Ränder des DMDs ausblenden wollen. Dazu helfen die die Actual Windows Tools, das ist im gleichen Thread erklärt. Viel Erfolg, es ist einiges an Fummelei, aber wenn es Eingerichtet ist, macht es schon echt Spaß.
  11. You can use the 8-button layout from your post and only use the 6 buttons from the right side. Simply leave out the left ones and you have a decent 6 button layout. I like drawing the button layout on the artwork in photoshop, printing the artwork on vinyl tape, than glueing the artwork on the board (wood, MDF, carbon, ...) and finally drilling the button holes with a 26mm or 28mm bit. Like in your StreetFighter sample image, the exact drilling points are marked a white dots in the center of the circles.
  12. Hi guys, during the last weeks, I built another arcade cab project. This time, it should be something portable with easy connection to any HD-TV. It will be a gift to my sister, who also loved retro gaming, but has not so much space in her flat to place a bartop or fullsize cab. Inspiration came from the i64x.com build here: This is the setup: - dimensions 80 x 34 cm - body of 16mm MDF plates - Top plate is a lid and can be opened. Its fixed with strong magnets - connects to any HD-TV via HDMI - Computer is a DELL laptop with Core2Duo - Laptop is fix mounted in the cab and sits on feets to optimize heatflow - Two cassis fans keep the laptop cool and quiet, while super silent running on 5V USB power - Buttons and joysticks are connected via IPAC2 board - Two handles help to carry the box - 10 meter HDMI cable and 5 meter power cable can be kept inside the box when not needed. - Laptop can be powered on with the yellow side button, no need to access the laptop anytime - The cab runs Hyperspin with MAME + 8-16 bit Nintendo & Sega systems - The green and red rectangle buttons are for hyperspin OK/Back and Exit Game I choose Sailor Moon as decal artworks, because my sister is/was a huge SailorMoon fan in her youth. Fun fact: The main artwork was not this wide, so I had to photoshop additional 5cm on the left and right sides. This was the original aspect ratio: The button layout is optimized for 4 and 6 button games: 1 2 3 4 4 5 6 You see, the button 4 exists twice, this way you can play 4-button games on a native like setup, as well as 6-button games with the usual two rows. The additonal button 4 in first row has a slightly lighter color sourrounding, to indicate it's optional. The only tradeoff to make when using HDMI 1080p output was the loss of the SLG3000 scanline generator, due to the digital video signal. Hope you like this! I must confess, I used this cab more often, then my bartop. Sitting on the couch and playing on a 52'' TV is somewhat more releaxing. Here are the pics:
  13. Not a solution for having 1234 in buttom row, but I build my new layout this way: 1234 456 So, the 4 hast two buttons. This allows me to play all 1234 games in a row and 1-6 games like fighters in 2 rows.
  14. Actually, I did not draw real plans for the mini pinball cab, I did a Powerpoint sheet with a simple side view model of the wood body with the screens position. Then I measured both screen dimensions and cut the wood plates in the width, so both screens will fit in the width. I will upload this sheet later, when I have access to my laptop. Don't make it more complicated by creating big plans, usually a sheet of paper or Powerpoint is all you need. Use a ruler to find the dimensions of the hardware (screens, big computer parts, maybe a plunger), and make the MDF plates fit them. My screens are 26'' for the playfield (16:10 , 1920*1200) and 19'' (5:4 , 1280*1024). Both share nearly the same width, thatswhy I decided to make the cabinet one single part, not with a wider Backglass housing. @mikekim: Great idea, I will try to do this. My lockdownbar is one of the parts, I will improve soon, also replacing the thin legs with real pinball legs.
  15. I suggest going for the 2 player cabinet. When you have your first birthday party or barbecue gathering at your home, you'll see the difference, even if its just once a year. Just load up Bubble Bobble in Mame and even the non-gamers will ask you where to buy a cab. Then put on you best smile on and tell them, "it's unique, you only can build it youself." :D
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