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About planbee

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  • Birthday 01/17/1985
  1. Wow! That looks very slick So you just applied the vinyl on the outside of the glass? Nice and easy solution for covering up the bezel. Not a problem!
  2. Glad to hear you got it working Red, Green and Blue are the three primary colours that make up every other colour you see on your television/computer/mobile phone etc. Having RGB leds along with a pacled64 + pacled software allows you to change, animate and control the colours of your buttons. The list goes vastly beyond the colours that you mentioned. IE While red and green make yellow, varying the amount of green (voltage) you're giving it, you can get orange, aswell as all different shades of yellow and orange in between.
  3. I'm not familiar with the pacled64, as I have LED-Wiz pcb's in my build. Though I'm assuming they're very similar. So when you say you turned it on, do you mean that you wired it all up, booted up the PC and then got no lights? If so, this is because there is a piece of software you need to use to test/control the lights/colours/brightness etc. They won't just turn on once your PC is up and running. Taken from Ultimarc's website this is a link to the program for the pacled64.... http://www.ultimarc.com/PacLED64.exe You can also use LEDBlinky to get custom animations etc, then you can configure Hyperspin (in HyperHQ) to run LEDBlinky so you can get your LED's working with Hyperspin. I hope this helps you
  4. Bumpin' this thread as I was curious to know if you've done anything about covering up the bezel of your monitor as you mentioned you were going to do? I'm looking at putting a 32" decased LCD into my cab, though it only JUST fits. I'm talking that it actually touches both sides of my cab when it's in there so I'm thinking of ways to hide the bezel with the best appearance. Awesome work here too!
  5. Wow, the progression on your cab is happening so quickly! Putting me to shame! Ahaha. Do you know the inner width dimensions of your cab, where the monitor goes? I played around with some 32" LCD screens in case I decided to ditch the idea of putting a CRT in mine but none seemed to fit. My dimensions were as wide as I could go if I still wanted to be able to fit the cab through a standard doorway (only by a few mm's it now fits!) My question about the width of your cab also relates to, can you fit your cab through a door?? Love your work!
  6. Coming together quite nicely there dude! Nice and clean build, good stuff and keep it up
  7. Yes he did call it LEDwiz, though the IC's used are designed for the EXACT purpose as being used in pin cabs. http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/nte/NTE2017.pdf This is the datasheet for the IC which has the higher current rating of 750mA. In the first paragraph the Description it says "Typical loads include relays, solenoids, stepping motors, multiplexed LED and incadescent displays, and heaters." Granted it's not the exact chip that is on the LEDWiz but it's job is the exact same, just with different ratings. So I don't see an issue there. There are other pcb's available to the public that do the same job as the ledwiz, it's just this one is programmed for what we want it to do...
  8. Oh and I'm more than certain that Randy would be aware of the IC with 750mA current ratings that I mentioned, though the price of that IC is triple the amount of the one's used on the LED-Wiz pcb's, so common sense tells you to manufacture with the cheaper yet still suitable part...
  9. I'm talking about expanding the ledwiz. My guess about the stutter is that it's related to the mircocontroller IC, part number: CY7C63413C-PVXC If you do a google search of that part number and look at the datasheet for the IC you'll see that it's a low-speed high input/ouput 1.5mbps USB controller. An improvement on this IC along with more darlington IC's will improve the LED-Wiz performance. The issue about the current rating being limited to 500mA per output, the only substitute IC that I can find that would be an improvement still only has 8 outputs each with a collector current rating of 750mA. The only issue I think there is is getting the source code's for the IC's, unless someone is a software programmer and wants a project?
  10. I've been looking at an LED-Wiz alternative too. Okay each pcb has 4 x eight darlington array IC's. Which gives you a total of 32 outputs. The only way to increase the amount of output's would be to add more IC's, giving possible 40, 48, 56, 64, 72, 80... outputs. As for the talk about "stutter". Well I've read through this thread, rather briefly though, and I couldn't quite grasp what was meant by this. I can always assume but that's not certain. I take it it's more or less a lag issue related to the LED-Wiz? The 5th chip, the one in the middle of the pcb is the USB microcontroller IC, rated at 1.5mbps and having internal RAM of 256 bytes. As I'm not certain on the whole stutter thing I'm not 100% though I do believe this could relate to the stutter issue....
  11. I was always thinking along the lines of a slider pot used in a way to give plunger intensity. I haven't gone too far with it yet but when the time comes for the electrical side of my pincab I plan to investigate until I've got a sensitive plunger. It's a MUST IMO, and I'm surprised there isn't already such a thing!
  12. Amazing build! You should be quite proud of this cab Chriz.. Could you please tell me what the measurements of the playfield's depth are? From the top of the monitor to the top of the cab's side panels. Also how do you think a regular LCD screen would go being lowered in a cab? Would you say it's best to leave it for LED panels only? Thanks dude. Jason
  13. Hey dude, can you let me know what I need to do to get a copy of Touch Media 1.0? I'll go for the JRiver pack to save hassles. Also, what are the rough dimensions of your jukebox? Just trying to work out how big my build needs to be for a 23" screen. Cheers.

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