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About Spektre99

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  • Birthday 01/01/1950
  1. Could work, but that is probably not the best solution. It would be better to cut the power prior to the power supply powering Zeb's board, but still not great. I'd vote with Max and Arngrim's idea of separate DOF files.
  2. Everyone has their own setups. Here is mine.
  3. Count your toys and do a pin count.
  4. It's an oldie but goodie thread! Chriz, I don't know if you check in on this thread any longer but I am about to button up my build which, construction-wise, is very similar to this build. When you assembled your bezel-less screen on the top and added the siderails, did you use anything to insulate the metal siderails form the now exposed electronics of the TV?
  5. Hi. I have a question regarding the laminate used. Is it Arlon or Oraguard? Is it Oraguard 210 (which is a 2.5mil laminate) or is it a 3.5 mil laminate? Thanks!
  6. Lucian... The dimension for my cabinet sides are rather irregular and jagged. How is most artwork supplied to you? Do you cut to exact dimensions? Do you usually have some extra to trim on the edges? As an example, here is the side of the cabinet. How would be best to supply the graphics to you? Also regarding color balance, Are small proof sheets available?
  7. I think he is providing a valuable service and should be compensated at whatever rate the market will bear.
  8. Why should whether someone else is making a profit on something determine whether you want to produce it or not. You have the option to be compensated for your work. If you choose to give it away, worrying about what someone else does with it is simply being a busybody.
  9. You might think there is a big difference. Copyright law? Not so much. In for a penny, in for a pound. If the guy is providing a value added service in the free market that others are willing to pay for...more power to him.
  10. Possible yes, Easy and cost effective no. In order to use a laptop screen you woudl need an inverter (to run its internal backlight), and a compatible LCD controller. Will end up being cheaper to use a computer monitor or small television.
  11. Does Paradise Arcade Shop have a presnece here on the board? Repeated web inquiries to them have gone unanswered.
  12. Pretty cool. Was it dificult to calibrate?
  13. Yes, you can wire up the flipper contactors so that they fire with the button presses and yes they would then work in future pinball. Most folks here do not wire them that way as they would also fire off when in the Hyperpin front end. Your call how you want to wire them. As for the other contactors, they are generally controlled via an interface to the tables ROMs via an LEDWiz plugin. This leaves FP tables and non-ROM based VP tables without those contactors. However I know for a fact at least that you can script contactor events into the VP tables directly. SO if you want to add them to VP, and are handy with the scripting, you can get them working in all VP tables. Something similar might be available for FP, I don't know. If you have not purchased contactors yet, many of us (myself included hopefully someday) are using these instead of some/all of the contactors. http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/SOL-58/24-VDC-PULL-TYPE-SOLENOID/1.html
  14. Ran into the same problem trying to order the "cabinet shells" that are the title of this thread.
  15. I'm using a Zebuon's booster board which gives 16 high power outputs and 16 low. I am going to use 1W/LED (3W RGB) LEDs. They seem quite bright enough. The high power channels are going for replay knocker x 1, flipper solenoids x 2, other feedback solenoids x 6, RGB flipper buttons and ambient lighting x 3. large fan x1, strobex1
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