ideacipher Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 I'm working with 3/4 MDF and have the proper router bit. I cut today with a 12" molding test piece to hammer in around the cab for testing while cutting. I started with a scrap piece to make sure the molding was centered and once that was locked in I moved to the actual sides. This is where things started to go wrong. I started with small routes and tested each before moving on and everything seemed to be OK so I routed one complete side and noticed at times the molding was a bit off. I adjusted the depth and rerouted the whole side. The molding is perfect on the center now but the fit is to loose to hold on the corners. I then cut the other side at the depth the router was set to and it also has some slight overhang at spots. At this point I have one side that is to loose but has a nice molding line and one that is pretty close most of the time and sometimes over on one side or the other but really grabs the wood. I'm thinking about rerouting the other side as well and figuring out the grabbing problem later. I saw some people suggest putting a small strip of duct tape (just enough to cover the barbs) and place the molding that way. I would also be open to glue even though it can not be replaced easily if I go that route. Has anyone else experienced this and how did you overcome the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HazzardActual Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 sometimes when they extrude the tmolds the barbs come out a little retarded. I just put a lil dab of liquid nails on the problem areas. and i applied pressure with a come along. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momentarydogma Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 If you ever decide to replace/change it in the future, glue won't cause much of a problem unless the problem area is really big. Liquid Nails will work great, but if you want to use something that might make it easier to remove in the future, standard wood glue will probably do the trick because it won't bond to the molding as much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ideacipher Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 Thanks for the tips. That's a load off knowing it can be fixed easily. Would this do the trick? http://www.liquidnails.com/products/construction-adhesive-LN206 or is there another line that is better suited for the plastic and wood bonding? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momentarydogma Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 That'll definitely do it-- I used the same stuff for a couple loose spots on my cab, but I've never tried removing it, so I can't speak to whether or not it'll be easy to pull out once it sets. If you really think you might want to swap out the t-molding at a later date, I guess you should do a test run... let it set for a day or two on a routed piece of scrap and see how easy it is to pull off once it's dry. LN is pretty solid, so it might not be easily removed, but I don't really know for sure. Standard Elmer's wood glue will likely be enough to hold it in but won't bond so hard that you can't extract the molding from the MDF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampirolatino2 Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 I use a piece of tape tape it from behind in the -> I of the T , hammer it and done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momentarydogma Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Never thought of that, but it makes sense! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdhanded2 Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 Hot glue. Holds it in great and comes out easy with the blade of a screw driver if you need it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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