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Xion Ba Jamma Cabinet project


JayC

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Yey!!! I got one of the computers down to 640 x 480, this seems to be the highest it'l go.

Windows looks awful, but when running Super Mario Bros. on RetroArch Nestopia it looks pretty nice.

The only problem now is the warped bit in the top of the screen...clearly visible when there's a uniform background at least.

Is there anything I can do about that or will I just have to live with it?

Here's a pic of what I mean:

srm2gFX.jpg

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I'm no stranger to soldering...but the discharging is a little unnerving.

All the numbers I've found on the chassis I posted earlier, tried googling for them but only one of them gave any results. Any idea where the numbers could be?

Here are all the numbers I found once more:

GXN 6253

SP054U 70609?

SCD-29411VX2V MIR-J 070613 DIF2920V2VB

Started playing with the control panel layout...how does this look? I added save load buttons for console games.

Is this a functional layout?

jVNaCys.jpg

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Just ordered a J-Pac, ArcadeVGA and some new buttons from Ultimarc.

Ordered a MSI Z97 PC Mate motherboard and will put an Pentium G3258 on there. It might be overkill for MAME and similar systems but I want this to run as smooth as I can.

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Well...that's a problem...I have the marquee...or at least a part of it. The company I bought it from had managed to destroy most of it...cheap thin plastic you know.

So I'm thinking about making a custom marquee somehow...maybe a wooden box painted with the same colors as the rest of the cab. Or maybe a marquee with a monitor?

Is there any point in using a second monitor?

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Arcadevga isnt going to help yuo with that screen wobble. It's either caps or the HOT or something else.

as for the marquee area. it may be more simple to just get a custom piece of plexi cut to something reasonably similar and mount it. Lots of Candy cabs did not have full-fledged marquee areas. They just had a sheet of plexi that allowed the marquee to be held up to show the game. sort of like this

post-36788-142870677269_thumb.jpg

post-36788-142870677267_thumb.jpg

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Yes i know that thed ArcadeVGA wont solve the problem, but I'm not sure I want to mess with the highvoltages of the monitor myself. Better to get someone better qualified to do it.

I like that simple marqee. Maybe a second screen as a marquee and then adding a custom border to it. Then I could change the marquee to match the game. Not sure how to do that thoug.

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That is exactly what I was thinking about, very nice, thank you...basically I could just put an old lcd monitor on the top of the cab and then maybe build some kind of box around it to match the rest of the cab.

I let my wife design the artwork for the cab and CP as she's more of the "artist" in the house. Not sure where we will put artwork, but at least on the CP, and probably something not too big on the sides.

Now if I only could figure out why there is no sound. Got to get the old multimeter and check the cabling.

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Connected the J-Pac today...works nicely. Just have to wire the extra buttons and make the new CP.

I pulled out the old PC power supply and got a bit scared when I looked closer at the wiring...especially the AC wiring.

I'm not a qualified electrician, but I have had some courses in school on it, and have worked with electronics as well as built some electronics in the past, but not that much AC stuff.

I noticed the wiring after the cab just didn't start up anymore after being switched on/off a couple of times today. The last time I switched it off I noticed the AC switch was a bit stiff, and I had to push much harder on it to turn off.

So the next time I switched it on...nothing happened. I suspect the switch might be broken.

So...here's how it's wired.

The AC cord from the wall socket comes in to an old weird looking AC input but connects on the inside...so basically the wire just goes through the panel and is soldered to the AC in from the back. This is where the ground wire is connected...I mean the ONLY place the ground wire is connected! This seems weird to me since the monitor input definitely has a ground input...but it's not connected to anything, there is a cable in the molex connector but it is cut in the other end.

Well onwards from the AC input. Hot and Neutral goes to the switch (which seems alright?) and from there they are TWISTED together with the cables that goes to the monitor power supply and used to go to the PC power supply (before I removed it) only covered by electric tape...they wherent even soldered...just twisted together.

This has clearly been fixed at some point by someone who has no idea what they where doing.

So here is my plan...correct me if I'm wrong.

Install a new IEC computer power input. Connect the hot wire to a fuse and then Neutral and Hot wires to a new DPDT switch (as well as to my new PC power supply that is going to be connected to the computer running hyperspin, as well as the ground wire), from there they would go to a power strip as well as the ground wire to where I would connect the monitor and anything else that will be powered on by the main switch like speakers.

Is there any reason for me not to connect the ground to the monitor? I read somewhere about interference problems?

Anything else that should be grounded? There is no metal frame in the cab...it's all plastic.

Thanks for any advice.

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Yes I know! Too bad.

The guy said he would check in the basement if the pieces are still there, if they are, then maybe I could fix it. But I think it's going to be a custom marquee for this...if any, I could make some kind of shelf on it for other game related stuff.

Anyone has any opinion if I should ground the monitor chassis or leave it not grounded like it is now?

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identifying the monitor is the first major step to fixing it. I'd suggest getting the chassis recapped and do the fix mentioned in the wiki or perhaps look for someone on arcadeotaku that can do all of the mods for you.

Wei-ya stuff isn't the best but unfortunately its some of the most common new CRT stuff on the market today.

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