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Everything posted by zebulon

  1. Looks great Tyson, although that pacman looks to need a little love.... I'll definitely second the_greeze's recommendation for Josh and Brad's work. Great guys to deal with and top quality product!
  2. http://www.zebsboards.com/images/docs/Inductor_Board_Instructions.pdf http://www.zebsboards.com/images/docs/PWM_output_board_instructions.pdf http://www.zebsboards.com/images/docs/Mounting_plate_assembly_instructions.pdf http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/topic/446-pinball-electrical-101/
  3. Nice to see that you got it going. I had considered offering a trade for it but you're a bit further out than I trust my truck to make it to.... The backbox bowling balls are kindof a neat feature on that one.
  4. You're in the pinball forums...takes much more horsepower to run than the arcade emulators. No wonder theirs confusion.... Try over in the Hyperspin forums and they could probably give you more guidance.
  5. I'm assuming that you are assigning a different key code to the left and right secondary flipper switches then. The codes can only be changed in the firmware at this point, I have no utility for programming the keycodes before compiling it. I can do a custom firmware for that usage, but it will prevent you from being able to just download any updates as all further updates would have to be likewise configured.
  6. All of the primary buttons on the controller are standard default keypresses (flippers, secondary flipper, launch, coin, start, exit). The only joy inputs are the 4 extra inputs as they are more easily configurable in the settings screen of the game software.
  7. Not hard to find me Fire10.... http://www.zebsboards.com
  8. Thanks Maxx, happy to hear that it was pretty painless for you.....
  9. I try to make everything I design backwards compatible so I would be building it into the new controller but would also design a module that plugged into existing units. It would involve a firmware upgrade but I foresee it just being a matter of plugging it inline with one of the existing harnesses and running the update to the firmware.
  10. The ipac does have more inputs. And as randr has shown, it works without any conflicts with the ipac as well. One of the future upgrades I'm looking at for it is incorporating a port expander to increase the keyboard/button inputs to somewhere around 26 or so. I don't forsee it being too much of a load for the system but won't know for sure until I try. 1st I want to get back to tweaking the code to allow for the plunger to double up as the launch ball button as well.
  11. It has 12 inputs so you won't need an IPac. Nudging testing....
  12. no offence intended, just found it amusing. Post away, there's certainly nothing wrong with it.
  13. LMAO....and once again the net proves there is no such thing as a dead thread on the forums.... The last post was 3 years ago.
  14. Thanks Blashyrk, it should be getting there this week in fact....
  15. No worries guys, there was no offense taken here either, it's a valid question. Living in Ontario, Canada isn't getting me any breaks either as our gov't seems hell bent on putting everyone out of business with exorbitant taxes, user fees, special interest surcharges, etc, etc, etc...
  16. It's a business. After 2 years of R&D costs exceeding $5000 in material outlay, the actual cost of the unit to produce, the overhead for the shop, and the warranty and support that has to be offered there has to be something in it for me at the end if I'm building them for others (and whether you choose to believe it or not, there's not much in it for me at $175US but we go with what the market will bear). I'm all for DIY and if you can make a functional unit for $10 (and certainly not disparaging your creation, but there is a huge difference in the tech between a switch and the sensor that I've designed) then more power to you. If you were to make them by hand in batches of 50 or so to supply demand, would you be selling them for the $10 it cost to build? I'm sure this response sounds somewhat snarky, but that really isn't my intention. The bottom line is exactly that, the bottom line. If I can't get some minimal compensation for my effort why would I bother? I often wonder how many emails along this vein does NVidea get for asking $400 + for their video cards and if they even bother to respond to them. Thanks, -zeb- As a side note, $175US is $105GBP when I checked yesterday, I'm not sure why it is coming up as $190 if you are in the UK. $190 is the CAN dollar equivalent.
  17. Not sure what you're after there. It reads as though you want one that releases at full strength regardless of the amount that you draw it back...pretty sure that's not what you're after..... By design, the plunger emulates a joystick. Mine takes positioning counts by using a linear encoder with a native resolution of over 1600 counts across the 65mm of travel that a plunger has. The number and speed of these counts are then mapped to a joystick axis range and then finally injected into the joystick axis in the joystick control panel. Basically, what that all boils down to is that the signal is completely digital rather than the traditional analog approach of measuring varying voltages. Rate and distance of travel are both factored into the equation so yes, the velocity of the plunger tip over the distance traveled varies the strength with which the ball is launched.
  18. Hi Ron, The 8 keyboard commands are L_shift (left flipper), R_shift (right flipper), Enter (launch), 5 (coin), E (exit), L_Ctrl (left magna save), R_Ctrl (right magnasave) and 1 (Start) The other 4 inputs are programmed to be gamepad buttons 1-4 which are easily assigned in The vp or fp control panel. Thanks for the interest!! -zeb-
  19. Kit Features: Control unit controlling digital plunge functions, button input functions and realistic, stable analog nudging functions. Plunger Features: Smooth, repeatable action Stable, consistent performance Compatibility with VP, FP and Pinball FX2 Nudge Features: Complete configuration compatibility with VP, FP and Pinball FX2 control settings Automatic return to zero positioning Realistic and stable performance Input Features: 8 Hard Coded standard keyboard control inputs 4 User customiseable (within game control settings page) gamepad buttons Fully debounced inputs for consistent, reliable function User upgradeable firmware for future enhancement releases. Each kit includes all necessary hardware including mounting plate and machine screws. http://www.zebsboards.com/index.php/feedback-control-devices/plunger-detail
  20. Man that was some nice walnut.... Great build, very classy!
  21. Well, if you've maxxed out the ports and there is nothing that you can shift to a fixed/constant output by bypassing the board then your options are to hardwire the leds and use a controller (they usually come with a remote) or add a second ledwiz into the mix.
  22. on the upper board there is a spare output. have you read the documentation on the kit? There is a couple of diagrams in it that label the outputs and what one corresponds to what terminal on the ledwiz.
  23. just use the exit, extra ball and spare outputs. Exit was never implemented as a rom controlled light, extra ball is redundant and the spare is just that, a spare.
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