Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
gyom

Official build thread: "ArduiPin Star's Phoenix" (39"/?/?/Standard)

Recommended Posts

Hi everybody.

I've decided to start an official thread for my build. Well it's more a link to my blog, not that I don't like you here.. but since I'm posting on like 3 differents forums at this moment, I don't want to duplicate everything everywhere!

So here's the link: http://arduipin.blogspot.ca/

New photo gallery here (hope the link works):

https://plus.google.com/photos/112177773270092950187/albums/5877658474194671953

And here's the link to my current Arduino code and C# interface (still only a prototype, be warned):

https://github.com/gui999/ArduiPin

(Well it's a working prototype lol)

Short story short, I'm using an Arduino mega instead of a LedWiz with a Zaccaria Star's Phoenix cabinet that I got for free (standard size) and a sharp 39" LED TV. I still have no idea on the backglass TV, DMD, and the computer. I'm trying to find a way to use my laptop in my cab since it's powerful enough to run all tables with no issue, but running 3 screens on a laptop is pretty tricky.

So I hope you're gonna enjoy and don't hesitate to ask questions.

Thanks!

Edited by gyom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well if you go with the pindmd and a real dmd you will only have to worry about two screens powered by the laptop. It would take a little testing, but you can try to use an external VGA adapter with your laptop for the backglass?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you will almost certainly want the DMD (if going down real DMD route) controlled by its own micro controller as updating the display(running 16 colours) is quite cpu intensive.

pindmd would take that load for you :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah I should try to find a USB/VGA adaptor to see if it lags or not. Probably gonna go the real DMD way, so I guess all I have to worry about is that 2nd monitor.. but since it will be the backglass (mostly static picture), maybe it could work!

Oh and I need some help regarding a PSU I've salvaged from a broken LCD TV. I'm not sure if I could be using it in my cab to drive the toys. Like you can see on the picture, it as 24v output and even 32v that I could use to drive the replay knocker that came with my cab (not sure how many amp it draws). The problem is that I have a hard time determining if it has enough power.. Power and current is a hard thing for me to understand in PSU.. I've checked the tag behind the TV and it says 199w average and 2,7a max.

Since my contactors draws 330ma each (lets say 350ma to be safe), 8x = 2,8 amp total. But thats if they all launch at the same time and in continious. So I could run the contactors, but not much else?

Thanks.

IMG_0927.JPG

IMG_0928.JPG

Edited by gyom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

pc psu's are normally the easiest things to power the toys as they are cheap pretty powerful and have all the correct voltages.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

LCD power supplies are designed more for high voltage, low amperage supply. Add to that the spike suppression circuitry and it adds up to something pretty much unsuitable for driving mechanical devices. The majority of the effects that are driven during gameplay are brief events which means the psu will fight you as it's looking for a constant, steady draw.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...