Jump to content
Unfortunately we had to take download section back offline temporarily. We should have it working normally soon.

Work so far (updated 7/5/2017)


acpowell

Recommended Posts

Well here is what i have so far with my build.

I started with a Silver Strike Cabinet, an X-Arcade 2 player BYOC kit, and a lot of time. I am obviously not done. I still have the main computer components (I am using my gaming rig for now) a monitor (using gaming monitor) and a sub-woofer (because why not).


***UPDATE # i Don't Know***

It apears that I have failed to post regular updates on this build.  It has also taken me a year to get this far.  Here is where i stand as of today 07/03/2017:

  • Empty Silver Strike Cab w/ working coin doors
  • Makvision M3129DS-LG Tri-Sync SRT (new)
  • X-Arcade 2 player DIY kit
    • 8 buttons per player (I know I know)
    • P1/2 coin and start
  • 2nd keyboard controler
    • controls the test buttons inside the machine (f2 and f3 buttons and what not)
  • Computer parts
    • Crucial MX300 750GB SATA III
    • Gigabyte GA-B150M-DS3H LGA 1151 mATX Intel Motherboard
    • Intel Core i3-6300 SkyLake 3.8 GHz LGA 1151 Boxed Processor
    • Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16GB 2 x 8GB DDR4-2400
    • Corsair CXM430 430 Watt Modular Bronze ATX 12V Power Supply
  • Windows 10 Pro
    • HyperSpin set as Shell (although an update to windows 10 made it less seamless that it was when I started)
      • Mame
      • Daphne
      • Naomi
      • Taito Type-X (work in progress)
      • Steam (work in progress)
  • Custom Built Control Board
    • I designed the background myself (I have access to large format printers)
  • Found a MAME marquee online (credit: i forget)

The above is all setup and working; CRT looks amazing and since it is new it should last a while.  I currently do not have the correct Bezel as my cabinet originally came with a a round tube not a flat tube, but it looks okay as long as you are standing (it cuts off about an inch on the bottom when sitting on my stool).  I have not done a whole bunch of mods to the cabinet its self and I still need to build a board that isn't all messed up from me constantly banging on it and add t-molding.  Short of all that and possibly a mame rom update to the latest version, I believe I am done with this project.  

Here is a short video of it booting into HyperSpin.  I am going to tweak the boot time and figure out the boot logo (it was originally set for my 16x9 LCD) in the next week or 2 but for now it looks and plays great!

Video:

 

 

Comments, questions, and criticism are of course welcome.

 

 

 

***update #1***

Here are a couple Pics and a quick video showing that the coin doors work.

Video of the Coin Doors Working

 

***UPDATE #2***

I have now built and mounted the System Board, Hard Drive and Power supply for the computer piece of my build. I still need to connect all the wires back up and reroute some things but hopefully I will have it all back up and running this week.

mobo.jpg

***UPDATE #2 ***

Got the hardware all installed and converted an old button into an on switch. Changed the shell in Windows 10 to be hyperspin. Boots up really fast.

Booting Proccess Video

 

close.jpg

controler.jpg

full.jpg

inside 1.jpg

inside 2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a really interesting looking cab. That control panel is crazy deep, so huge it looks like you could add two big cupholders into the middle. That inner-edge marquee area looks like it would be great for a Hyper-Marquee screen. What's the profile of the cab look like?

How wide is the internal area? Hopefully at least 25.5 inches so you can fit a 27" monitor in it.

What all emulators and games are you planning on it having?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a really interesting looking cab. That control panel is crazy deep, so huge it looks like you could add two big cupholders into the middle. That inner-edge marquee area looks like it would be great for a Hyper-Marquee screen. What's the profile of the cab look like?

How wide is the internal area? Hopefully at least 25.5 inches so you can fit a 27" monitor in it.

What all emulators and games are you planning on it having?

 The monitor that would of normally come in this cab is a 27". 

 

For now I plan on just doing mame and trying to incorporate Daphne in there some how with out exiting the mame wheel (no clue on the process yet).

 

Not sure what you mean by deep, if you mean the actual cavity that the controls fit in, then yes it is because it is a silver strike cabinet, it used to have a track ball in it.  I do have the track ball but currently no way to connect it to my computer and I need to modify the base plate it came with because it will not fit in the machine with the button layout I am using as it currently requires a 6"x6" hole be cut in the board.  I can reduce that by 1/3 if I remove the mounting plate, but seen as I don't have a way to make it work yet, it wasn't something I put much effort into.  In the winter I plan to add lighted buttons with LED Blinky and I will probably add the trackball then.

 

As for the Marquee; in the winter I also planned on doing something like what this person has done here: 

  The screens are not cheap arround, $800-$900 from what I could find, so it will take me a while to get it working properly.  The empty hole below the marquee is actually where the speakers and a small incredible technologies logo goes.  I had removed them because they were wired mono and I was changing it to stereo.  

 

I just bought MB/CPU/RAM yesterday (sunday) so I will post more photos later this week of all of those mounted and working.

 

Thanks for the comments, I really appreciate them especially because I am kind of a bit out of my comfort zone with some of this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The monitor that would of normally come in this cab is a 27". 

A 4:3 27"? I was talking about a widescreen 27", but if you're only going to play MAME and Daphne are you planning on just putting an actual 27" CRT in it?

 

For now I plan on just doing mame and trying to incorporate Daphne in there some how with out exiting the mame wheel (no clue on the process yet).

That can be done.

 

Not sure what you mean by deep, if you mean the actual cavity that the controls fit in, then yes it is because it is a silver strike cabinet, it used to have a track ball in it.  I do have the track ball but currently no way to connect it to my computer and I need to modify the base plate it came with because it will not fit in the machine with the button layout I am using as it currently requires a 6"x6" hole be cut in the board.  I can reduce that by 1/3 if I remove the mounting plate, but seen as I don't have a way to make it work yet, it wasn't something I put much effort into.  In the winter I plan to add lighted buttons with LED Blinky and I will probably add the trackball then.

I'd probably toss that stock trackball and get a smaller easier to connect one that can take LED's like a uTrack or something.

 

As for the Marquee; in the winter I also planned on doing something like what this person has done here: https://www.youtube....h?v=AAmAkXXEqwE  The screens are not cheap arround, $800-$900 from what I could find, so it will take me a while to get it working properly.  The empty hole below the marquee is actually where the speakers and a small incredible technologies logo goes.  I had removed them because they were wired mono and I was changing it to stereo.

I actually think this cab would be cooler if you kept the Top marquee with normal backlit art, and put the Hyper Marquee into that black speaker space. You could just cut two holes in the black portion above the cutout area and munt your speakers there, above the marquee screen. Seems like it would be a lot of wasted space to just put speakers there as they don't take up much room.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A 4:3 27"? I was talking about a widescreen 27", but if you're only going to play MAME and Daphne are you planning on just putting an actual 27" CRT in it?

 

That can be done.

 

I'd probably toss that stock trackball and get a smaller easier to connect one that can take LED's like a uTrack or something.

 

I actually think this cab would be cooler if you kept the Top marquee with normal backlit art, and put the Hyper Marquee into that black speaker space. You could just cut two holes in the black portion above the cutout area and munt your speakers there, above the marquee screen. Seems like it would be a lot of wasted space to just put speakers there as they don't take up much room.

 

I was going to put an LCD in there in VERT hoping it would fill the whole space but I would need a HUGE LCD, like a 40"+ so I need to rethink weather I am going to do that or go CRT.  The plus to CRT would be no HLSL would be needed so I can ditch the Discrete graphics and save on a smaller PSU.

 

So I am not sure yet, as of now I am using my 27" desktop monitor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was going to put an LCD in there in VERT hoping it would fill the whole space but I would need a HUGE LCD, like a 40"+ so I need to rethink weather I am going to do that or go CRT.  The plus to CRT would be no HLSL would be needed so I can ditch the Discrete graphics and save on a smaller PSU.

 

So I am not sure yet, as of now I am using my 27" desktop monitor.

That's funny that you say that. The reason I asked what you were going to run and about the CRT is exactly because I was going to suggest a vert LCD to fill that entire screen space. But if it's just Mame and Daphne then it probably makes more sense to put a 4:3 crt in if you can find a good one. Plus that screen angle looks pretty steep so a vert LCD may not seat well in there.

EDIT: Hmm... then again with a vert LCD you could potentially get even more game real estate on screen. Plus being 1:1 your vertical games could display at the same size as your horizontal making their screen area much larger... However a downside would be that unless you got a 4k screen your horizontal resolution would be cut so much HLSL/GLSL might not look to good...

Hard to say without fully testing it before you commit. You could buy a screen at Costco and give it a try. If it doesn't work just return it since their eternal no questions return policy is so good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's funny that you say that. The reason I asked what you were going to run and about the CRT is exactly because I was going to suggest a vert LCD to fill that entire screen space. But if it's just Mame and Daphne then it probably makes more sense to put a 4:3 crt in if you can find a good one. Plus that screen angle looks pretty steep so a vert LCD may not seat well in there.

EDIT: Hmm... then again with a vert LCD you could potentially get even more game real estate on screen. Plus being 1:1 your vertical games could display at the same size as your horizontal making their screen area much larger... However a downside would be that unless you got a 4k screen your horizontal resolution would be cut so much HLSL/GLSL might not look to good...

Hard to say without fully testing it before you commit. You could buy a screen at Costco and give it a try. If it doesn't work just return it since their eternal no questions return policy is so good.

Very steep is an understatement.  I was/am going to need to modify somethings to use an LCD.  My original thought was mounting it vert because I play a lot of  vert shump games.  Either way it will need to wait, and will probably be the last thing I get.  If I can an 16:9 LCD that is about 21 inches wide, it should match the width of a 27" diag CRT (if my math is even remotely correct it would need to be a 42" LCD which is HUGE)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

I now have the CRT wired up and installed.  No photos/videos of it running yet because I need to install a cap kit.  Don't want anyone seeing it until it looks its best.  That being said, I did have to use the CRT_EMU driver on my AMD 5770 to get windows 10 to output to the monitor properly.  It doesn't show any video during post, but I believe a firmware change can fix that.  Still deciding if it is worth it or not as the boot time is fairly quick.  Below is the wiring I had to do.

Even though it is a VGA monitor it didn't have the DB15 connector or a standard VGA monitor power connector
pwr and vga.JPGvga.JPG

 

I took a standard computer power cord extender and cut off the male end (I think; the end that goes in the PSU) and wires pins to it then connected the male pins to the females on the monitor.
power cord pins.JPGfully wired pwr cord.JPG

 

For the VGA I bought a female DB15 connector and wired up the required wires to pins and then connected the male pins to the females on the monitor
VGA adpater.JPG you can see that I added some hot glue so they wouldn't accidentally touch.  I did this to the power connector as well.

 

Now I have this:

installed.JPG

back.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...