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About sebastian_bailey

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  • Birthday 11/28/1985


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  1. Well, I don't know if I can help, but this thread reminded me that I needed one for my project so I just spent 600$ on an LGM3801SCBN !!! it should be awesome though, ive been looking for one for a long time. I know they make a smaller one that you might be able to find cheaper. I ordered it refurbished off of newegg.com
  2. I used a griffin powermate, it also gives you a lot more options for use as a jukebox.
  3. it seems to work 90% of the time, but I only turn on the machine every 2 weeks or so, so about every 4 or 5 months I restart the machine. seems to work better if you use it more often.
  4. I have that same issue with some of my systems aswell, the gamecube in particular, some help would be great.
  5. don't you just setup your power button one the cabinet to go into hibernate mode when pressed? it always works on mine, I never close hyperspin.
  6. honestly I have the same setup as you, windows 7, ati card, running s-video out to 32" sony crt, but ive never noticed a problem with running nes games at 640X480, they still look great to me. the biggest drawback to using an arcade vga card to me is that then you wouldn't be able to run the newer systems. even the new demul emulator requires a gfx card that supports dx10 or dx11. I think for an all around machine you have to make some sacrifices, think of it this way, those low res games still look better on the tube than a 16:9 flat panel.
  7. it does seem that more and more people are building the widescreen lcd/led cabinets, Im sticking with my 32" crt. Just use a regular monitor to do the testing, much easier on the eyes. Also Ive never had a problem in windows 7 with the resolutions, the desktop is set at 1024X768 and the games switch to 640X480, seems to work fine.
  8. that's a sneak peak showing the difference between the new ggg helio9 and there rgb drive II lighting units. the helio9 is far superior in my opinion. Its hard to see the difference though in these pictures, but the helio's will end up lighting up the entire control panel, similar to whats happening with that big button in the center.
  9. the control panel is painted from the underside, those close up shots show the detail pretty good, this machine is actually undergoing a complete overhaul at the moment, i'll probably make a new thread in a few weeks or so.
  10. so did you put a computer inside to just run the led-wiz or what, Im in the same situation with my cabinet, can you explain how it all works.
  11. That was really cool, I definately got to get that spinner and wheel, Do you have a gas pedal at the bottom, I dident see you push the gas button.
  12. As far as the curved back that was done with 1/8" masonite.... it was hard and I only got about 2-3 layers on, the radius was to short, about 6", then I cut the masonite into 3/4" strips and filled in the low spots I had, then used fibertech, then bodyfiller to block out the surface. The really simple way however is to buy from the lumberyard Italian bending poplar (wuapop)sp? that stuff is super bendable, to about 6" diameter and comes in 1/8" thickness, it was just too much money for me, I tried to stay on a budget, but either method will standup to time and look great.
  13. The resin top is a product called 3form, I work in a cabinet/store fixture shop as a cad drafter, we had this scrap laying around for about 2 years, me and my co-worker always wanted to do something with it and finally I had an idea. Anyhow that scrap prolly cost around 700$ It was free to me, I then sent it down to the cnc shop and had him bore out the back to a respectable thickness, You wouldn't want to cut this stuff with a handheld router, Then I backpainted the material, (it already was backpainted white), then used a roundover around the controls and backpainted those areas to match the controller color. His cnc does not do any roundovers, just square cuts.
  14. Thought I would also add a picture of the sample of the material that will make up the top, its a 2" thick clear resin.....
  15. So I designed and built an arcade cabinet, the case construction is mainly ultralight m.d.f. with plywood, in a dado construction with support cleats, No exposed fasteners, and No sharp corners. It houses a 32" sony flatscreen tube television off craigslist, and 4 players functionality. The treatment for the paintjob on the wood was first a penetrating wood epoxy, (mdf is like a sponge, this makes it tough and not soft), then assembly, then bondo for the curved back and front, high build primer, sealer, silver base, colored base, pearlcoat, clearcoat. After it was all cleared the first time I was not happy so I added some graphics to it. Tried to go a little retro, but still somewhat presentable today, as to not make it a horrid 80's paintjob. Overall I think it turned out pretty good. I will try to update when more finished.......
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