gyom Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 Hi everybody. I've decided to start an official thread for my build. Well it's more a link to my blog, not that I don't like you here.. but since I'm posting on like 3 differents forums at this moment, I don't want to duplicate everything everywhere! So here's the link: http://arduipin.blogspot.ca/ New photo gallery here (hope the link works): https://plus.google.com/photos/112177773270092950187/albums/5877658474194671953 And here's the link to my current Arduino code and C# interface (still only a prototype, be warned): https://github.com/gui999/ArduiPin (Well it's a working prototype lol) Short story short, I'm using an Arduino mega instead of a LedWiz with a Zaccaria Star's Phoenix cabinet that I got for free (standard size) and a sharp 39" LED TV. I still have no idea on the backglass TV, DMD, and the computer. I'm trying to find a way to use my laptop in my cab since it's powerful enough to run all tables with no issue, but running 3 screens on a laptop is pretty tricky. So I hope you're gonna enjoy and don't hesitate to ask questions. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyson171 Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Well if you go with the pindmd and a real dmd you will only have to worry about two screens powered by the laptop. It would take a little testing, but you can try to use an external VGA adapter with your laptop for the backglass? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russdx Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 you will almost certainly want the DMD (if going down real DMD route) controlled by its own micro controller as updating the display(running 16 colours) is quite cpu intensive. pindmd would take that load for you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyom Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 Yeah I should try to find a USB/VGA adaptor to see if it lags or not. Probably gonna go the real DMD way, so I guess all I have to worry about is that 2nd monitor.. but since it will be the backglass (mostly static picture), maybe it could work! Oh and I need some help regarding a PSU I've salvaged from a broken LCD TV. I'm not sure if I could be using it in my cab to drive the toys. Like you can see on the picture, it as 24v output and even 32v that I could use to drive the replay knocker that came with my cab (not sure how many amp it draws). The problem is that I have a hard time determining if it has enough power.. Power and current is a hard thing for me to understand in PSU.. I've checked the tag behind the TV and it says 199w average and 2,7a max. Since my contactors draws 330ma each (lets say 350ma to be safe), 8x = 2,8 amp total. But thats if they all launch at the same time and in continious. So I could run the contactors, but not much else? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyom Posted May 24, 2013 Author Share Posted May 24, 2013 Bump, new post and new photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russdx Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 pc psu's are normally the easiest things to power the toys as they are cheap pretty powerful and have all the correct voltages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyom Posted May 26, 2013 Author Share Posted May 26, 2013 But they don't have 24v (unless you parallel 2 PSUs). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zebulon Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 LCD power supplies are designed more for high voltage, low amperage supply. Add to that the spike suppression circuitry and it adds up to something pretty much unsuitable for driving mechanical devices. The majority of the effects that are driven during gameplay are brief events which means the psu will fight you as it's looking for a constant, steady draw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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